EdB
06-12-2004, 12:24 PM
This is a copy of information originaly posted by TX Firefighter.
Swaybar Install FAQ With Pictures
There are lots of members asking about installing a swaybar on the front of their trucks.
First, all swaybars from 73-87 2wd trucks interchange onto earlier trucks. The larger trucks like 3/4 and 1 tons typically had larger bars on them from the factory. The bar shown in this install was given to me by a friend. We pulled it off an 86 3/4 ton 2wd truck. It is the 1 1/4" bar.
Some of our trucks came equiped with factory swaybars. If your's did, you are lucky. You can simply snag a larger unit off a heavy duty truck to improve your handling. For folks like me, who's trucks did not come equipped with a factory unit, the install process is a little more complicated.
The install documented below was performed by myself in about 2 hours.
One factor to consider is if your truck is lowered or will be in the future. The factory swaybar mounts hang very low under the frame and when the truck is lowered, they typically get bent very quickly against a curb. Early Classic Enterprises makes a set of raised mounts intended for lowered trucks. With these mounts, your bar will be high enough to never have to worry about hitting it. I used the raised mounts on my truck, which is lowered 4.5 inches in the front.
First picture is of my Blazer which uses factory GM mounts and is lowered 4.5 inches in the front. As you can see, the bar hangs too low.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
__________________
ASE Master Technician. Airframe and Powerplant mechanic. Mechanic for 12 years, Career change in 2001, now just part time.
Last edited by Tx Firefighter on 10-11-2003 at 06:52 PM
Contributor
Besides the swaybar itself, you will need some other parts. If you pull a unit off another truck, be sure to get the clamps (4) that bolt the bar to the truck. You can also get the factory sway bar mounts off the donor truck too, but be forewarned, they are riveted on. Usually, it's too much trouble for me to remove the rivets in the junkyard, so I just buy new mounts.
This picture is the ECE mounts. Notice the part number is written there for you. ECE mounts cost 19.00. Also, is the GM part number for the factory mounts. Just take the number to the dealer parts guy and pay 12.00 each (you need two).
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
You will also need 4 clamps. Remember when I said they get hit against a curb? Well, two of mine were bent, and they came off a non lowered 3/4 ton!
Don't sweat it. Notice I bought two new ones. Again GM part number is shown. Cost was 2.66 each.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
10-11-2003 06:12 PM
Contributor
New bushings are advised too. I used Urethane bushings. If you go to any local parts store that sells Moog brand parts, you can buy them there. The part number shown is for 1 1/4" bushings. Your parts guy will want to know what diameter bar you have, so measure before you go to the store.
Don't even mention Urethane to the parts guy, you will just confuse him. All Moog bushings are Urethane.
They come two to a box, so you will need 2 boxes. I paid 11.00 per box, or 22.00 for all of them. You can also order whatever flavor suits you through any aftermarket vendor. Again make sure what size bar you have before ordering.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Here is the main difficulty of the job. Notice I'm holding the brackets up where they will go, and there is a rivet in one of the holes. The rivet secures the bottom of that little crossmember in place. Take your grinder or torch and remove the rivet head. Using a punch, hammer the rivet out of the hole after de-heading it. Do one side at a time, or the crossmember will try to move. After removing the rivet, bolt the mount in place, before removing the other side rivet.
Bolt both brackets in place using 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Don't worry, the grade 8 bolt is as strong as the rivet you removed. As a note, Early Classic stuff comes with the finest hardware anywhere. All cadnium plated grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. Strictly first rate and well worth the money.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Here is one of the brackets installed. Notice I put the bolts down through the bracket before installing it. You can't do that after the bracket is in place. They taught me in airplane mechanic school years ago to always put bolts hanging down rather than up, so if the nut ever comes off, the bolt can't fall out. Right or wrong, that's the way I'm mentally programmed.
Also notice, I left all bolts loose until later to allow everything to shift a little if needed. Don't worry, I did tighten them all later on. Again, notice beautiful bracket and hardware from Early Classics. I never mind paying a little more for good stuff.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Your lower control arms on each side will have these two holes for the swaybar clamp to bolt into. Don't worry if your truck never had a factory bar, the holes will be there anyway. That blue thing is the coil spring to give reference as to where thse holes are.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Now, bolt it all in. If you use new Urethane bushings like I did, there will be strong language and prying to get it to all line up. The Urethane doesn't give much slack. You might have to let the truck back down onto the ground to get everything lined up. When you finally have the bolts in all 4 clamps started, go back and forth side-to side thightening them up. Recheck all bolts for tightness when you're done.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
All done! Notice how much higher this bar sits than the one in the first picture. Both trucks are lowered the same amount and have the same size tires. The Early Classics brackets raised the bar up a bunch.
If you buy the frame brackets new, you will spend 19-24 dollars. New bushings are 22.00. New swaybar clamps would be 11.00 if you bought all 4. And a swaybar typically runs about 20-30 bucks in a junkyard.
So for a total of 70-85 dollars max, you will improve the handling of your truck more than any other mod you do. Mine was a particulary good deal, but I still have less than 50 in the whole deal. If you don't have to buy the clamps and can get a bar cheaper you could save even more money. There is actuallly no reason you couldn't reuse the old bushings if they aren't oil soaked or deteoriated.
I'm not trying to screw the aftermarket vendors here, but with the Urethane bushings, your junkyard bar is just as good as the 125-150 ones sold new by vendors. It's just a 1 1/4 inch bar, not rocket science. Plus, these things are heavy and it costs some bucks to UPS one across country. But, on the other hand, you might not have the time or willingness to lay on your back in a dirty junkyard to gather all the pieces up.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Excellent information!!!!
very good detail makes me wanna go out and do my swaybar but sigh cold weather and lack of a garage makes that a bit difficult
__________________
67 C/20 camper special 350
Posts: 925
WELL DONE
I just completed this myself. You documented it very well. Maybe Josh can move this to a tech page.
scott
__________________
The new bushing make a Huge diffirence.
I put a new set on the Burban before I wercked it.
What about factory springs? Just curious, don't plan on pulling too many G's on the skid pad.
__________________
Douglas King
Independence, MO
On my '68 that I had in high school, I ordered front and rear swaybars (the biggest they had at LMC). I put the front in and drove it like that, I never ended up using the rear because it just didn't need it. I would think that if you are going to tow heavy loads like a camper or car trailer or something like that, then a rear sway bar would probably be a good idea to give more stability on the highway.
To each his own, but if I were you I'd only put a front sway bar out of a junkyard first, then decide if you think you still need a rear one.
Thanks for the info. I installed mine a few weeks ago off of a 76 3/4 ton Camper Special. I got the brackets and all from the wrecking yard, bought the Moog bushings and put it together, BUT. During the install I noticed the brackets seemed to over compress the bushings, but I went ahead and tightened them down and took it for a ride. I was not happy with the ride it seemed like the bar wasn't able to pivot in the bushings. I went to the hardware store an bought some washers and added two between the bracket and frame at the fronts. Also two between the "A" Arms and the brackets. The differance is amazing and I ended up with the great ride that people describe and am now very pleased. I hope this will assist anyone who encounters the same problem.
Additional note: The brackets and hardware were in great condition, I think the difference was the the thickness of the new bushing.
Good luck with your install and it's well worth doing.
__________________
Great Site.......are we having fun yet !!!
The basic daily drivers plus:
1971 Chevy Cheyenne 350/350 LWB 2wd
2003 Suzuki z-400
Built to use, and look good.
oh yea...golf fanatic!
Last edited by lewi on 01-06-2004 at 12:22 AM
Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged
01-06-2004 12:20 AM
cobb_ben
Member
Hey grat how2 I put a sway bar on my C30 big differance, i got it on with the orginal brackets in about an hour. It's the nice 1.25 bar, would probally put a sway bar on the
Swaybar Install FAQ With Pictures
There are lots of members asking about installing a swaybar on the front of their trucks.
First, all swaybars from 73-87 2wd trucks interchange onto earlier trucks. The larger trucks like 3/4 and 1 tons typically had larger bars on them from the factory. The bar shown in this install was given to me by a friend. We pulled it off an 86 3/4 ton 2wd truck. It is the 1 1/4" bar.
Some of our trucks came equiped with factory swaybars. If your's did, you are lucky. You can simply snag a larger unit off a heavy duty truck to improve your handling. For folks like me, who's trucks did not come equipped with a factory unit, the install process is a little more complicated.
The install documented below was performed by myself in about 2 hours.
One factor to consider is if your truck is lowered or will be in the future. The factory swaybar mounts hang very low under the frame and when the truck is lowered, they typically get bent very quickly against a curb. Early Classic Enterprises makes a set of raised mounts intended for lowered trucks. With these mounts, your bar will be high enough to never have to worry about hitting it. I used the raised mounts on my truck, which is lowered 4.5 inches in the front.
First picture is of my Blazer which uses factory GM mounts and is lowered 4.5 inches in the front. As you can see, the bar hangs too low.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
__________________
ASE Master Technician. Airframe and Powerplant mechanic. Mechanic for 12 years, Career change in 2001, now just part time.
Last edited by Tx Firefighter on 10-11-2003 at 06:52 PM
Contributor
Besides the swaybar itself, you will need some other parts. If you pull a unit off another truck, be sure to get the clamps (4) that bolt the bar to the truck. You can also get the factory sway bar mounts off the donor truck too, but be forewarned, they are riveted on. Usually, it's too much trouble for me to remove the rivets in the junkyard, so I just buy new mounts.
This picture is the ECE mounts. Notice the part number is written there for you. ECE mounts cost 19.00. Also, is the GM part number for the factory mounts. Just take the number to the dealer parts guy and pay 12.00 each (you need two).
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
You will also need 4 clamps. Remember when I said they get hit against a curb? Well, two of mine were bent, and they came off a non lowered 3/4 ton!
Don't sweat it. Notice I bought two new ones. Again GM part number is shown. Cost was 2.66 each.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
10-11-2003 06:12 PM
Contributor
New bushings are advised too. I used Urethane bushings. If you go to any local parts store that sells Moog brand parts, you can buy them there. The part number shown is for 1 1/4" bushings. Your parts guy will want to know what diameter bar you have, so measure before you go to the store.
Don't even mention Urethane to the parts guy, you will just confuse him. All Moog bushings are Urethane.
They come two to a box, so you will need 2 boxes. I paid 11.00 per box, or 22.00 for all of them. You can also order whatever flavor suits you through any aftermarket vendor. Again make sure what size bar you have before ordering.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Here is the main difficulty of the job. Notice I'm holding the brackets up where they will go, and there is a rivet in one of the holes. The rivet secures the bottom of that little crossmember in place. Take your grinder or torch and remove the rivet head. Using a punch, hammer the rivet out of the hole after de-heading it. Do one side at a time, or the crossmember will try to move. After removing the rivet, bolt the mount in place, before removing the other side rivet.
Bolt both brackets in place using 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Don't worry, the grade 8 bolt is as strong as the rivet you removed. As a note, Early Classic stuff comes with the finest hardware anywhere. All cadnium plated grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. Strictly first rate and well worth the money.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Here is one of the brackets installed. Notice I put the bolts down through the bracket before installing it. You can't do that after the bracket is in place. They taught me in airplane mechanic school years ago to always put bolts hanging down rather than up, so if the nut ever comes off, the bolt can't fall out. Right or wrong, that's the way I'm mentally programmed.
Also notice, I left all bolts loose until later to allow everything to shift a little if needed. Don't worry, I did tighten them all later on. Again, notice beautiful bracket and hardware from Early Classics. I never mind paying a little more for good stuff.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Your lower control arms on each side will have these two holes for the swaybar clamp to bolt into. Don't worry if your truck never had a factory bar, the holes will be there anyway. That blue thing is the coil spring to give reference as to where thse holes are.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
Now, bolt it all in. If you use new Urethane bushings like I did, there will be strong language and prying to get it to all line up. The Urethane doesn't give much slack. You might have to let the truck back down onto the ground to get everything lined up. When you finally have the bolts in all 4 clamps started, go back and forth side-to side thightening them up. Recheck all bolts for tightness when you're done.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Contributor
All done! Notice how much higher this bar sits than the one in the first picture. Both trucks are lowered the same amount and have the same size tires. The Early Classics brackets raised the bar up a bunch.
If you buy the frame brackets new, you will spend 19-24 dollars. New bushings are 22.00. New swaybar clamps would be 11.00 if you bought all 4. And a swaybar typically runs about 20-30 bucks in a junkyard.
So for a total of 70-85 dollars max, you will improve the handling of your truck more than any other mod you do. Mine was a particulary good deal, but I still have less than 50 in the whole deal. If you don't have to buy the clamps and can get a bar cheaper you could save even more money. There is actuallly no reason you couldn't reuse the old bushings if they aren't oil soaked or deteoriated.
I'm not trying to screw the aftermarket vendors here, but with the Urethane bushings, your junkyard bar is just as good as the 125-150 ones sold new by vendors. It's just a 1 1/4 inch bar, not rocket science. Plus, these things are heavy and it costs some bucks to UPS one across country. But, on the other hand, you might not have the time or willingness to lay on your back in a dirty junkyard to gather all the pieces up.
Tx Firefighter has attached this image:
Excellent information!!!!
very good detail makes me wanna go out and do my swaybar but sigh cold weather and lack of a garage makes that a bit difficult
__________________
67 C/20 camper special 350
Posts: 925
WELL DONE
I just completed this myself. You documented it very well. Maybe Josh can move this to a tech page.
scott
__________________
The new bushing make a Huge diffirence.
I put a new set on the Burban before I wercked it.
What about factory springs? Just curious, don't plan on pulling too many G's on the skid pad.
__________________
Douglas King
Independence, MO
On my '68 that I had in high school, I ordered front and rear swaybars (the biggest they had at LMC). I put the front in and drove it like that, I never ended up using the rear because it just didn't need it. I would think that if you are going to tow heavy loads like a camper or car trailer or something like that, then a rear sway bar would probably be a good idea to give more stability on the highway.
To each his own, but if I were you I'd only put a front sway bar out of a junkyard first, then decide if you think you still need a rear one.
Thanks for the info. I installed mine a few weeks ago off of a 76 3/4 ton Camper Special. I got the brackets and all from the wrecking yard, bought the Moog bushings and put it together, BUT. During the install I noticed the brackets seemed to over compress the bushings, but I went ahead and tightened them down and took it for a ride. I was not happy with the ride it seemed like the bar wasn't able to pivot in the bushings. I went to the hardware store an bought some washers and added two between the bracket and frame at the fronts. Also two between the "A" Arms and the brackets. The differance is amazing and I ended up with the great ride that people describe and am now very pleased. I hope this will assist anyone who encounters the same problem.
Additional note: The brackets and hardware were in great condition, I think the difference was the the thickness of the new bushing.
Good luck with your install and it's well worth doing.
__________________
Great Site.......are we having fun yet !!!
The basic daily drivers plus:
1971 Chevy Cheyenne 350/350 LWB 2wd
2003 Suzuki z-400
Built to use, and look good.
oh yea...golf fanatic!
Last edited by lewi on 01-06-2004 at 12:22 AM
Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged
01-06-2004 12:20 AM
cobb_ben
Member
Hey grat how2 I put a sway bar on my C30 big differance, i got it on with the orginal brackets in about an hour. It's the nice 1.25 bar, would probally put a sway bar on the