Just painted PPG Omni base coat/clear coat with a slow hardener. Being the amateur that I am I ended up with a sag in the clear coat (At least it's only 1). To fix the sag I assume I should wet sand it with 400 – 800 grit paper then clear it again. How long should I wait before wet sanding (assuming I even have the process right)?

Other than that it actually turned out much better than I thought it would.

Let the clearcoat dry for a couple of days.
Take a brand new single edge razor blade, hold it perpindicular to the surface and gently scrape the sag and only the sag. What you are trying to do is take the mountain down to the floor of the field. :rolleyes:

You can wrap a piece of making tape over the ends of the razor blade if it make you feel more comfortable

this works very well, keep an eye on where you are in the clearcoat.

Sometimes a body shop supply place will have a short peice of Vixen file that is made into a sag scraper.

The brand new razor blade trick works on small flicks of stuff in a really nice paint job too!

JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE A BRAND NEW BLADE, and don't be afraid of changing blades or flipping the blade around.

DID I MENTION A NEW!!!! RAZOR BLADE :D :D

This scrapes a fraction of an inch off each time you scrape.

If you see a color change in the spot you are working, your done and have to repaint that spot again. :banghead:


Then lightly sand the scrape marks with 1500 or 2000 grit wet paper, buff and your done!


Sometimes I wish that I could demonstrate this stuff on here, it would be soo much easier!!! :D :cool:

This process sounds dangerous and dumb but it really works, I got it from the painters at the Ford assembly plant in St. Paul, MN. when I was a painter at a Ford dealership.

Just my .02

:gmc: CCDually

I was wondering if a razor blade might not take care of some if it. I've got almost a full box of nice new shiny blades. Looks like I'll use a few of them. I'll just call the blood splatter part of a custom paint job.

My original thought was I might need to do something right away. Will wait a few days and will take your advice.

Thanks for your help :D

Try it on a spot that is out of sight first. (less splattered blood that can be seen :D )

Seriously, practice and take your time. If you do it right it will just barely shave a fraction of paint off with each stroke.
If it's a dark color you will see the sag go from the narrow top to eventually blend in with the surrounding surface.

Good luck and be very patient!!!! ;)

Just my .02

:gmc: CCdually

It also helps if you will bend the blade just slighty ... like you are going to fold it in half - side to side ... NOT top to bottom.

This helps to keep the outside corners / edges from "digging in"... only the section in the middle of the bend will touch the high spot.

I have done this numerous times on custom air-brushed helmets.

Take your time and you will be okay.

Well I ended up with 2 sags one big and one little. Both in plain sight. So far I haven't had the opportunity to work on it much. Will go after tomorrow to see what I can do. Wil let you know how it turns out. Got to say that I really appreciate the advice.

I saw a guy do this once and it was pretty cool.
Take a thin strip of very fine sandpaper. Place it over the sag and push down lightly on it with your thumb. Pull the paper out from under your thumb with your other hand. Repeat as necessary.
Doesn't Eastwood (for example) sell little planes that hold razor blades which are adjustable?

I personally prefer sanding to the razor blade method. It requires quite a bit of care too...but is more forgiving than the blade. You need a firm block, like a 3M rubber squeegee type. Start with a fairly coarse paper (wet) like 400-600. Tri-fold the paper and use the block for support. The idea is to take the top off of the sag, touching none of the surrounding area. As you sand it down it gets wider....As you go, wipe the water away and dry the area to assess the progress. When you are nearly blended into the surrounding area switch to a finer paper (1000) this will still remove material but less gradually and in a larger area. Be careful about how large the area gets though unless you intend to wetsand/rub the entire panel. You will draw attention by having an area that is texture-free on a panel that still has some.

I have used both methods metioned here and I prefer the sanding method. there is less worry of messing up to me but either way works with great results. like they have said just watch what u are doing and cut it till it is all the way gone and nobody will ever know except you.

I ended up using the razor blade method. I did mess up the first drip a bit but it worked great on the 2nd one. My screw up was more along the line of getting used to it. Did have to repair that area so I tried an air brush to apply more of the white B/C and it seemed to come out OK. Got to say it's not very easy seeing how much clear is going on the white. Hopefully it's easier on dark colors since that's next.

Thanks again for everyone's advice.

IT's MUCH easier to see how much clear you are laying down on a dark color.

I buffed cars for a few years in a body shop and my favorite method for removing sags/runs was to get some 1000 grit and wrap it around a Home Depot paint stick. It is perfect because it is 100% flat and does not flex at all under the pressure. I have ruined too many paint jobs using a razor blades so now I stick to the good old sandpaper method. There is a LOT more room for error.

good stuff here, ttt because i'm sure at least i'll need this advise!!!!!!!