i've been having trouble with certain shapes, like the the "body line" on a s1o tailgate that i shaved. its a concave body line. i've been using a plastic paint roller for these shapes, seems it works best. i have a ton of blocks but they wont work for the reverse stuff. also what block would you use for the top of 50's chevy fenders. they are straight but if i would've had to do body work on them i would've had probems i think. should i order some of those foam bright colored things from eastwood??? i have all of the durablocks and the round one doesnt cut it

you know I'm not a pro........ :)

But I found these at eastwood and they have saved my life with some of the odd metal work I have done......they were $12.

My problem is keeping edges straight when I use filler, It always seam to lay over or not keep the same raduis on long lines. Got any tips for that?

I have used plexie glass glued together to the needed thickness and shaped it in the router. Then just wrap your paper and got.

Oh I am not a Pro. But it worked great.

eric? brian? ghettocruzer? i know i'm having problems because i dont have the right tool, and yall always point me in the right direction.

Some times BODY MEN have to make there own tools. 9 inch rubber block bent for rounded panels, plastic tube from masking paper roll for sanding a body line that rolls out. The best ding spoon I have ever used is a 2''x4'' cement trowl and if you sharpen the edge it will remove emblems/moldings and you can slide it in to remove w/o and rocker moldings. I should get some pic's you cant buy stuff like this anywhere. Matt

thanks matt. maybe i can heat a 3m block to make the shape i want

A length of radiator hose works really nice , a magazine rolled up and wrapped with tape.

It's use your imagination time!!! :b69:

There is a guy in the Minneapolis area that invented some sanding blocks that have rods that you pull out to make the foam block less stiff. They come in a couple of different lengths. They work fantastic!!

I don't know offhand where to get them ,but I am guessing somebody like Eastwood would have them.

They are ,I think too expensive, but they work the best ,especially for long panels and concave surfaces

Just my .02

:gmc:CCDually

thats what i'm talking about, but i know eastwood doesnt have them. if you remember let me know.

Eastwood does have them.

15" Flexible Sanding Block (http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1692&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=sanding+block)

http://www.eastwood.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p8300.jpg

21" Flexible Sanding Block (http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1693&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=sanding+block)

http://www.eastwood.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p8301.jpg

thats the multicolored ones that i was talking about, i thought there was somehing better but i guess i'll order a set.

Another vote for radiator hose on straight contour lines. 21/2" works pretty good for most shapes. Squeeze hose to oval shape for smaller curves. Cheap too. John

John Wheeler out of Bear lake makes those AFS sanders. They are TOP notch pieces and well worth the piece!!

Do a google on adjustable flex sanders. Eastwoods does sell em but about twice as much.
Also www.autobodystore.com sells em. A kit of 5 sanders is like 130 bucks.
I use them for production work and promise they will make a panel straighter faster and better...Eric

This is just my own opinion I think those flexible sanding blocks are not worth 60 to 70 bucks. I worked in a body shop for five years so I don't claim to know everything. I was tought to use a 6", 15", and teardrop blocks. You can do anything with these.

Sevt......White Bear Lake??

Northeast Metro area.

The ones that have the 3 or 4 rods that you can pull out to make the block more or less flexible?

From about 6" to the realllllly long one? (a two guy one)

They are set up to take sticky back whatever grit on a continuious roll.

Next best thing since sliced bread and toilet paper!

Just my .02

:gmc:CCDually

White bear lake, thanks for the correction.
John invented those and is a great guy. If you ever happen to go to Back to the Fifties or the car craft show stop and talk to John at his booth.

Will do....

Are you coming up for Back to the 50's or the Car Craft deal this year?

I've got a buddy that is putting together a '67 Nova w/a 409 smallblock,
narrowed rear ect.

Trying to get him to get it ready for the CarCraft deal.

If you do let me know, would like to meet you.

Gary Anderson

Just my .02.

:gmc:CCDually

Gary, I dont know.
As you might know I lived in northen Iowa/southern Minn but moved to Kansas City Kansas back in June.
I sure would like to go up there as I have tons of car friends up in the metro area. If I make it up there ill let you know...Eric Elkin

Eric
I was born and lived in Raytown, in KCMO till I was 6 or 7. 1st grade.

"Along time ago .........in a galaxie waaaaay far away....."

Gary

Just my .02

:gmc:CCDually

thanks for the info, i'll be ordering a set soon

I work over in Raytown at Dick Smith Ford

Like the other guys have said, by sanding tool drawer is full of home made as well as every block I could buy. You can't have too many, although I find that I use about four of them 99% of the time.

Concaves, I have a half round wood "short board" by Huchins that I use a lot. Radiator hoses are a gold mine. I have to say, there is a company out there that makes a varity of different shapes of blocks that are really great. I have a couple, I think the name is Dynablock. I have a round one, about an inch in diameter. It has jumped to the head of the line as my favorite round block.
They are just the right density and blow away the rad hoses and blocks of wood in my opinion.

A 3x5 3M block cut in half with a hack saw is one of my favorites. Not in half actually but make one that is aprox two inches wide and that leaves you one that is about an inch wide. Those two blocks I find to be VERY valuable, especially the one inch. I can't for the life of me figure out why someone doesn't make blocks that size. Nearly every guy who ever borrowed one of mine walked right over and cut one of his blocks.

For convex, I have to leave the norm here. I don't like the mile long blocks. I don't use a curved, or flexable one either. I will shape a bowling ball using a regular 3x5 block, or a VW bug fender with a long board, med board and block.

It is all in the mind that the thing is curved, it is actually what I call a "curved flat" panel. If you feel it, feel very small areas at a time ALONG with feeling larger areas so you don't loose sight of panel as a whole and shave off all the high spots you will end up with a perfectly round surface.

The trick is to slowly "sculpt" it.

Brian

Sometimes it isn't the shape but the hardness or how soft the shaping block is.

Sometimes you just have to take the paper in your hands and just sand it, feel it with your hands lightly it,sand it feel it.

Feel it with a single sheet of wyp-all. Don't look at the panel, you can feel the lumps and bumps or straightness. It is amplified by the sheet of cloth or towel.

Doing bodywork is not an exact science, most of the time you have to use your imagination and creativity.

Just my .02

:gmc:CCDually

I work over in Raytown at Dick Smith Ford

Hey, I live right by there. You'll have to stop by sometime after work.