I bought a new switch and it still dosnt work. What next?

If anyone could post a pic of how to take the damn door apart circle the bolts so i can work behind the door. The door panel is to easy to take off. But the actual metal part.

84' c10 :baa:

Get a multimeter and see if you are getting power to the switch. If so then see if you are getting power to the motor with the switch on. If you are chances are good the motor is bad, but before you replace it make sure it has a good ground. As far as I can tell GM window motors suck ones in my GTP have gone bad and talking with other owners the have had simular problems. Another problem is carbon build up in the switches, but you already changed yours. Good luck.

Those pesky power window switches can be a real pain. Assuming you've checked the fuses. About 75% of the time it's the switch causing the prob. Just so you don't think I'm blowin' smoke up your kazoo...I am an aircraft electrician by trade and know a little about voltage, current and the effects of resistance on a circuit. If you do as neon larry suggested and find that you have +- 12v at the motor with the switch made and your ground wire is good, the switch still may be AFU...confused yet. When your coke, coffee, rain water, dust, and armorAll etc. get into the contacts of those switches the contacts turn a pretty hue of green (corrosion). That green stuff will sometimes allow full voltage to reach the load (motor), however current flow (amps) is very low and not enough for the +-7 amp motor. If you have an ammeter you'll need to use it in series with the power wire to the motor however you can use a sealed beam headlight to check for current by running a jumper wire from the motor connector to the lamp and run a ground to the other terminal on the lamp. If it's full bright, then you can be sure you're getting good current to the motor.

Those pesky power window switches can be a real pain. Assuming you've checked the fuses. About 75% of the time it's the switch causing the prob. Just so you don't think I'm blowin' smoke up your kazoo...I am an aircraft electrician by trade and know a little about voltage, current and the effects of resistance on a circuit. If you do as neon larry suggested and find that you have +- 12v at the motor with the switch made and your ground wire is good, the switch still may be AFU...confused yet. When your coke, coffee, rain water, dust, and armorAll etc. get into the contacts of those switches the contacts turn a pretty hue of green (corrosion). That green stuff will sometimes allow full voltage to reach the load (motor), however current flow (amps) is very low and not enough for the +-7 amp motor. If you have an ammeter you'll need to use it in series with the power wire to the motor however you can use a sealed beam headlight to check for current by running a jumper wire from the motor connector to the lamp and run a ground to the other terminal on the lamp. If it's full bright, then you can be sure you're getting good current to the motor.

Or just use a 12vdc test light or analog meter. The digital meters do not place a load on the circuit, that's why they are computer safe. Could always just jump around the switch or relay if you thnk that is the case also. From another aircraft mechanic.

Steps to checking for power window problems??

It's very simple. Test sheet follows:

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Do you own a fullsize chevy?

[ ] YES
[ ] NO

If you anwered YES to any question, you have power window problems.
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Sorry for being jaded, but there's a reason I'm going to convert to power locks on my 79 C10, but staying far, far, FAR away from power windows. ;)