Hi everyone. New here. Does anyone know if I can add AC to truck? I realize it will cost money - and lots of time:) But will the factory AC equpiment bolt into my non-AC cab? I have a 71 1/2 ton, 4x4, SWB - and I love it!!!

youll have to do some cutting to the dash if you want it in the little factory balls, but, yes it should i beleive. you could probably even go with an aftermarket unit like old air, or a vintage air unit. and get r134 instead of the r12. if i were you id just get a vintage air or old air. some of the vendors on here probably sell the complete kit. got any pics of your truck. and welcome to the board :)

Thnks

I have a factory air dash that I am going to weld in, just wasn't sure if the ac parts would bolt into the firewall. I will get pics up soon.

It definately CAN be done, as I have done it. There are 3 major hurdles. One is: getting all the air conditioning stuff, two: to be 100% "factory" you will need to cut holes in the ends of the dash, to house the outlets, and third: air conditioned cabs have an extra hole (you would have to carefully cut this hole, too) in the firewall, behind the heather/AC housing. Cutting the holes in the dash is the hardest part IMHO, as the holes are angled on the slope of the dash area next to the instrument cluster/glovebox.
If you want to try it, I might be persuaded to part with my factory air stuff, E-mail me, if interested. steve

Yes it will, but it's not just a remove and replace job. You have to seal up the fire wall, and then recut it. It can be done because I did mine and it works great. Here is a shot of it.



http://www.myoldtruck.com/Gallery/data/500/45new_cover-med.jpg

well, you could go with a cleaner aftermarket unit and plum it through the a/c dash...

Shadetree,
If 71swb4x4 isn't interested in the A.C. I might be. I've been thinking of doing this same thing. Please PM me with your price if 71swb4x4 isn't interested.

By the way 71swb4x4, welcome to the board!!!

The hole for the heater box on the firewall will have to be modified. You will have to weld in a sheet of metal in the exsisting hole and cut a new one out. Cutting the vents into the dash is way easier then replacing the whole dash board IMO

This might help:
Here is a link from a previous thread about a custom install:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=75974&highlight=a%2Fc+firewall

Originally posted by Gee_Emm
Cutting the vents into the dash is way easier then replacing the whole dash board IMO

Why is that? I can see that the hole above the radio would be a snap, but the outer holes appear to be a pain in the ace. I assume there is some slop that can go along with the outer holes as the vent housings are like 3/8-1/2" thick on each side, and will cover sloppy cutting. How'd you do it? Get the vents and what not, then have CPNE come with Boz-All and just hack until everything fit? I'm going to add an AC dash for a future AC conversion, and want to make sure I'm not opening a big ol' can of worms removing and adding a new dash. Thanks Gee....

-adam

The firewall sheet metal is easier to modify than you think.

Refer to the picture Hutch posted.

The non-existant yellow hole has a factory dimple to line it up for the heater core. Use it to center your hole punch. The red and yellow holes in the picture that look like they don't line up really do.

Take a piece of paper to your non-ac firewall and make a trace of the heater hole and the two holes for the heater core. The heater core holes become your reference points. pic 1

Then take your future AC evaporator holder assembly and make a trace of that, including the two holes for the heater core. pic 2

Then take the two tracings and line them up using the heater core holes to line them up.

Cut out the piece of paper you need to create the metal you need to weld in. It sort of looks like a "J". pic 3

Finally hold your metal J in place and make any final trimming adjustments. pic 4

Then weld in the J and cut out the hole using your template from pic 2 for where to cut.

Pictures to follow...

pic 1 -

pic 2

pic 3

pic 4

The whole dash board doesnt come out as easy as it looks. There are spot welds on each side that are very difficult to get out.

Cutting the side vents is just as easy as the middle one. Ideally you need to have access to a AC cab. Take a sheet of white paper, cover up the vent hole with the paper wrapping around the bottom of the dash board a bit. Using your "garage hands" (dirty hands) rub the outline of the vent through the paper. Without shifting the paper at all rub the detail of some of the holes that are underneath the dash, one of the holes is for the e-brake assembly to attach to I think. Cut out the shape of the vent hole that is marked on the paper. Using the underdash reference holes that you made line up the paper on the dash you want to cut the hole in. Mark and cut. DO NOT use a sawzall, I would recommend roughing it with a cutting wheel and finishing it up with a die grinder.

I used a plasma cutter on mine very easy and the guy only charged me 15 buck's to cut the vent hole's then I dressed the hole's up and installed the vent's..

Btw WELCOME TO THE BOARD FROM SOUTHERN OREGON..

Thanks guys. Everyone has been a ton of help.

Shawn

I have been wanting to do this for a while, man a Plasma cutter would be the key, too bad I don't have one, how clean of an edge do those things cut anyways?

I don't have a Plasma cutter, however the old man does, I've seen him cut sheet metal, and leave a very clean cut, and there is so little heat that it doesn't effect the paint.:flag:

I just did the opposite, the cab I bought to replace my rusty one was air. I drilled out the spot welds on the dash and unbolted the sides, saved it figured somebody might need it. Just changed the firewall yesterday, again drilled out the spot welds along top, and cut long bottom with cut-off wheel. Left the old picece laying at body shop, we bent it a little getting out, but if you want it would straighten, and for the cost of shipping, I would box it up and ship it to you. could use as template, or weld it in.

68lwb, I may be interested. WOuld you be willing yo cut the passenger's side section out? The side with the heater/ac cutouts in the firewall? The would make it a lot cheaper to send. If you would do that then I will take it. I am in Brookings, SD 57006 if you could get me a shipping quote and let me know how you want me to pay. I can do paypal or mail, just let me know.

Shawn

I believe, if I understand your question correctly, that is what I have left. It is approximately 18" long and about 12' tall. I drilled out the spot welds at top and cut a straight line at the bottom. I will look for a box at work tomorrow that is large enough, and go get the old piece over the weekend. Probably be early next week before I can get shipped. PM your shipping information, and we can work out the details.

Didn't read far enough, can I ship it to you c.o.d. and you just for pay ups for the costs when you recieve it?

I sent you a PM.

Shawn

Shawn,
Since your starting from zero. I would strongly recommend using the factory evap, TXV and POA valve readjusted to the proper setting for R-134A. I did the aftermarket route and I regret the choice. The evap on the factory truck is bigger than the aftermarket units. It can transfer more BTU's meaning cooler cab temps. It also keeps the factory defrost and heater which is a plus. I currently have no lower heater vent outlet because of the aftermarket setup. As for compressor and condenser I would probably use aftermarket units. The benefit of the POA setup is that the compressor continues running and the POA modulates to maintain the pressure and temp at the evap just above freezing when in the A/C mode. This provides the coldest air possible with a large air flow.

I don't know how this didn't make it to FAQ. See if we can remedy that.:D

Isn't there a flap in the cowl as well?