View Full Version : Rattle can primer?


68haywagon
10-07-2005, 08:42 PM
I have a question about rattle can primers. I'm going home next week and bringing my dad's truck back up with me. It has the infamous Chevy blue paint that has flaked away and now it is starting to rust. I want to stop it before any major rusting happens. Is there any spray can primers that will seal and prevent rust from recurring? My dad sanded and shot some of the spots with some cheap walmart sh*t and I can see rust coming through. I don't have the funds to have it fixed correctly and the rest of the paint is shot anyway, so I am looking for something that I can do in my driveway.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike

3100 special
10-07-2005, 08:46 PM
Rattle cans won't hold up and won't stop the rust (other than cans acquired from a paint dealer..epoxy). I'm using them but just as a temporary cover to slow surface rust...garaged truck.
Once I'm ready, I'll sand it all off and epoxy primer with a gun.

68haywagon
10-07-2005, 09:27 PM
I don't have a spray gun. Will a cheap harbor freight one be able to spray epoxy? I do have a compressor so I could use a gun. It's just that I don't have alot of money right now so this has to be a somewhat cheap fix. What kind of epoxy do you recommend?

Mike

shifty
10-07-2005, 10:53 PM
Go get a rattle can of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator ( www.eastwood.com ). It's a rust converter and a sealant.

Be sure to prep it proper - I would take a wire brush, then a sander to the area to clean it up as much as possible - the closer you get to bare metal the better. Follow the instructions on the can and you can't go wrong.

3100 special
10-08-2005, 07:47 PM
I bought a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight for 49.99
Habor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43430)
Since I'm not going to do a bunch of vehicles, a cheap HVLP gun is fine and won't use as much paint.

On the primer, I'm going to order primer from Barry over at:
Southern Polyurethanes (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/)
You should read through some of the information on their site. Lot to be learned there.

As far as using an incapsulant, I am using that on areas under the truck (fender wells, inside panels as I'm exposing them during patch panel repair, and will use on the frame). I've heard the Eastwood is good. I'm using Zero Rust.

mastercraftkpk
10-09-2005, 09:06 PM
If you use the Southern Poly epoxy, you will be able to wait as long as you need to to paint it. It will keep moisture out if the area is properly prepped (apply to "clean white" metal or over old products that you KNOW are solid).

If it is surface rust, sand it down to clean white metal and prime. If you can't get all of the rust (ie..pittting, etc) spray an acid type "rust converter" over the area....wait as the label tells you....epoxy prime. You should apply 1-2 extra lite coats of epoxy primer if you plan on coming back in a couple years and painting.....that way you will have some to remove when you sand before paint without getting to bare metal.

68haywagon
10-09-2005, 09:15 PM
There's no problem getting to the clean metal. There shouldn't be any pitting. Just started to see the rust come through. It was originally patched up over the summer and it was somewhat dry this year.

Mike

billybob750
10-11-2005, 11:20 PM
get it to bare metal and rattle can it. i did it 2 mine 2 yrs ago and no rust today!