Well, it took a bit longer then I thought it would but I finally finished adding all my new parts. Over the past few weeks I added new window felt and outer rubber seals (anti-rattle kit), a new dash pad, new seat cover, new sound deadoning pads, new carpet, and also new outer door sills. All in all it looks absolutely 100% better. It is sorta strange driving around and NOT hearing all the rattling from the doors and all the exhaust noise. To me the truck sounds a lot different now that I'm shielding some of the header and engine noise. Actually, I like the new sound better. I do have one minor problem to iron out though. I put the outer door seals on and I'm really unhappy with the final result. One, the drivers door takes entirely too much force to close now and Two, the rubber seal isnt glued on tight enough for my liking. Any words of wisdom on how to get these outer door seals right? Maybe I should try a different adhesive, something that has more grip and drys faster. It also wouldnt hurt to try and adjust the door so that it closes easier. Perhaps loosen and/or move the door striker? Those little hiccups aside, I'm still very pleased. I think the final $$$ tally was just a shade over 300 bucks too. To me, it looks like a new truck so the bills were well worth it. :cool:

Good to hear it, Rabid. I'm in the process right now. My original intent was to get the outside ready for paint, replacing pass. rocker right now. So I had to gut the cab, ie. get the gastank out before I weld. Found some nasty holes at floor/kick panel area, but for now I'm just going to use seam sealer and pop rivet patches on. Then install the carpet over that.

When I find a deal on a MIG welder, then I will do it right, later tho. For now, my major concern is the outside. I did get new window felts, and door seals. Also, buddy on this board (Spoof) gave me some used carpet in good shape. Just gotta sew a patch over the hole where the 4-speed used to go.

I'm always glad to hear at least someone is making progress.LOL
I'll let you know how my doors fit w/ the new seals. I remember having to adjust one door a long time ago and it wasn't a very pleasant experience. I swear, I never opened and closed a door so many times in one day! BTW, how is unlocking/locking the door with your key? Smooth lock action? or do you have to give the 'ol hip check while turning the key? I had to do that w/ my old door and certainly don't want the same problem after I get new paint on.

I've always used 3-M weatherstrip adhesive with no problems. You have to apply it to both the truck and the rubber, and let them dry before sticking the rubber on. Also, not sure, but maybe the rubber has to break in for a while before the door gets easier to close.

Southpa- not sure about the key. LOL. I don't think I've locked my doors for a few months now. I might have to now though seeing as how she is a little easier on the eyes. I got in this morning and it seemed a little easier to close. Still too much force needed but yet still better then yesterday. I think Randy hit it on the head with his suggestion that maybe the rubber just needs to be "broken in" first. I'll try the lock though anyway.

Randy- 3M eh? I'll try to find it at the parts store. The rubber is stuck perfectly about 80% around both doors. The problem areas are all on the top portion of the door and along the long edge where the door striker is. I should have asked for tips before I began installing it. It took probably longer than it should have and the way I did it I felt like I needed 6 arms to do it correctly. :) I'll get it right though.

The door striker area always seems to be greasy, did you wipe the area down with thinner? If not, that may be the reason the rubber won't stick in that area.

I got a suggestion. Trash the gaskets, the glue on kind SUCK anyway. Go to your chevy dealer and get the door gaskets for a 99 up chevy silverado. They press on mold easy, seal great, and you just cut to fit in an inconspicous spot. Like by the kick panel. JMO, but this is what I did works great!:D

How much do they cost? I might have to try that! :cool:

I might have to try that too. I only did my drivers side and it was such a pain, just to have it pop off in spots a month later. I did readjust the door only because I replaced the hinge pins at the same time.

Looking forward to it...not. I recently picked up some subfloor sealer, good for wood, metal...anything. This stuff sticks like sh*t to a blanket. Just have to make sure you get it in everywhere.

The '72 shop manual says to cut a little notch in the door weatherstrip where the 2 ends butt together. Since the weatherstrip is hollow, I'm guessing that this notch lets the air escape when you close the door.
Maybe notch isn't the right term. They just don't cut it straight.
Does this make sense? Anybody ever tried it?

Yes, that does make sense. You'd get the "ballon" effect if the air couldn't escape. I hadn't thought of that. Good point!

The catch on my suggestion is it is pricey. I suggest going to a salvage yard and getting them there. From the chevy parts counter it is $45 a door (that's gotta hurt), But I can tell you it works great.

That's not as bad as I thought it would be.

Paul's right- I believe it is called a salvage joint (?). It is supposed to be about 6 inches from where the weatherstrip begins to go horizontally from the back of the door at the bottom-basically at the sill plate. It is there to provide air passage so any moisture in there will not rot it internally, but probably has aomething to do with the door closing too.