That's a sweet '67!

I couldn't believe it when i firs saw it........
They are out there,somewhere........every once in a while i have found them

That cab sure looks long with four full size doors! I am glad ours is 6" shorter in the 3dr and 4th doors. Being a long bed it is too long as it is.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I couldn't believe it when i firs saw it........
They are out there,somewhere........every once in a while i have found them
well why can't i ever find one?:whine:

Oh it's a monster, if it would have fit on my car trailer, I would have left the burb and taken that. I have a 17 ft trailer from front bulk head to rear. The wheel base was 17 ' 6" and a 2000 mile ride back.
I think of it as a chevy answer to the new dodge mega crew cab

Something that rare should not be sitting outside!! Get that thing under cover.

it is sitting out in the desert, probably better for it then under mu equipment shed here with 70% humidity!

Well not alot of progress but any is better than nothing. I got the new pass side windshield post cut out of the donor cab and also finished teh inside of the fourth door. All that is left is to drill for the door handle and stitch up the leading edge.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Great job on that 4th door!
Keep them pics coming.
Dano

Man, It's like a soap opera for macho men, I am addicted to this build, You are doing awesome work

That is "BAD AS HELL".....man that 4th door really rocks:) :crazy: L

Sorry that it is going so slow but I have alot of irons in the fire at one time. I am trying to work on my own 71 (project slow build) and I just picked up a 2wd blazer that is my next company truck build for how to DVD's and I am trying to get the rest of the Tip & Flip dollys designed for the other years (and now blazers). I hope to get a good bit done this weekend on the crew cab. I think with all this sunny California weather we have been having, NOT:rolleyes: is getting my motivation is down a bit. I like hot weather and long days and right now we have neither.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Man, I am in AZ just across the line from you and I can feel you. It got warm (like 60 instead of 20) and the suns up earlier and down later, so I got started and then it snowed (2 weeks ago, did you get anything from that one as well?) It rained yesterday and is supposed to rain all day today (but no clouds, so we'll see). I am trying to finish messing around with my rust 67 from KY. I had a 3/4 ton sitting around so I took every part off of it I could and I am now transferring them to the 67, when done the frame will be perfect (some of the parts I pulled off the 3/4 ton still had chasis black on it from the factory! Gotta love rust free AZ metal) I hope we both have better weather, I may look you up in July if I get out your way, LMK.

This is going to be a sweet truck when done!!! I am impressed. I wish I had the knowledge and tools to do this to my bed. Good Luck!
Respectfully

Ok we are in the home streach with the fourth door:c2: Today I welded up the lock hole on the door skin and grafted in the door latch area for the inner handle. I also treated the leading edge with a rust inhibitor before I weld the second layer of the leading edge on. This is the area that makes up the door gap between the front and fourth door and the last thing I want is rust to start up later at this spot. The pain in the a$$ part of the day was when I noticed that the pull up lock nob needed a full on lever and bell crank set up to work and look stock. You see on a third door of a burb it is at the front of the door so th efront passenger can unlock it. So the drivers side needs to be the same way. This involved taking a third door apart to see how it all works (and clears the windo set up) and then build the same thing in a mirror image. It was not all that bad just time consuming and somthing I never even thought of before. I mean I set the door top up for it to be this way with the lock button but never thought of how it would get from their to the rear of the door latch. Their are two bell cranks and three rods that make it all up. Both bell cranks had to have a notch cut in them since they will be working backwards from the factory layout. One had even throw on the bell crand arm so it was left alone. The rear on however had one arm longer than the other one so I had to grind off the back of the factory rivit so I could flip the arm side for side and weld it back together. Then it was just a mater of laying out the mounting holes which I found out if you are 1/16" off it will not give enough throw to fully lock the latch. But it is now done and working great and that only leaves the leading edge of the door to seam up with a second skin and the dor will be complete. Also I added a pic to show how full my shop got today with a nother customer project stuffed inside. Heck my 2wd blazer has to sit out in the rain right now:(

Kevin
LFD Inc.

A few more!

A little more progress tonight. Small floor patch at the bottom of the B pilar where the last owner thought fiberglass was a fix all! Then I connected the two driver side rockers. I had to form a filler piece since the two ends of the rockers are not exactly the same. If I had just joined the gap it would have left a 1/4" plus void for bondo. With the patch done it will only take a skim coate and primer.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Sure is nice cutting into somthing and no longer finding pounds of rust. This area was coated before closing up and I opened up the two rockers to each other so we can spray body wax inside the entire area. We will do this from the round access hole in the front of the rocker before the fender goes on.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice work!

looking great

Sun shine:metal: This is the first time I have been able to pull this thing out side in weeks! Well the only thing left on the drivers side now is to rebuild all the hinges and rehang the doors for final gap adjusting. Then it is on to hte passenger side and that should be a slam dunk. We need to replace both rockers (inner and outers), the rear cab corner, build the upper window rail for the third door and the worst part of this side will be the windshield post. All in all it is going real well and this truck is turning out great! It will have a real stock look to it even know we have adjusted just a few things;) . Should have the hinges finished and blasted next week and start choppin out more parts. I can't belive almost 10,000 views so far and we have only worked on one side!! I can not wait to get this thing off to the blasters and start body work and just even get it into primer so we can see the full affects of the work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I think your getting close to god status on this forum. Few of us are able to dedicate the amount of time you can to being skillful and finishing projects.

Thank you for contributing so many good pictures, and letting us vicaiously live out your project.

I agree with that Statement! Thank You!!! Best Thread Ever!

I agree with what was said above ,but you gotta remember that this is turning into the baddest krew cab ever built of this bodystile and its not even in primer yet...

The only part that sucks is it isn't even mine:whine: But wait untill you see what I am planning for my next full ground up build;)
Thanks everyone for taking the time to check out this thread. All the feed back helps me try and stay focused on only 5-10 things at once:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

What's the blue stuff on the right edge? :hmm: Awesome work by the way!!!!!

Simply amazing what you can do!! I wish I lived near you to pick your brain! :D

unfrickenbeleivable. How much to have a cab done in primer???????

Keep it up Kevin! And what is the body wax you are talking about shooting in the holes? Does it prevent rust? Thanks, Jeff.

What's the blue stuff on the right edge? :hmm: Awesome work by the way!!!!!

It is a new water type rust product I am trying out. Once I figure out if I like it or not I will give out the name and info. Just so we are clear I have nothing to do with the product. I paid fo rit like everyone else but before I say who it is by or people think I recomend it I want to make sure it isa good stuff.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Keep it up Kevin! And what is the body wax you are talking about shooting in the holes? Does it prevent rust? Thanks, Jeff.

It is a product Eastwood sells (or re sells) and sounds like it is worth trying. I have not tryied it wet but in some of those hard to get at places I want to give it a try. The factory did not coat or prime alot of areas on these trucks and you can see how that has worked out:rolleyes:

https://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1117&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=372&iSubCat=376&iProductID=1117&itemType=PRODUCT

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I've been using anti rust wax for years here in the UK where we know a thing or two about rust. There are several products on the market here, probably the best known is a product called Waxoyl made by the same company that make Hammerite paint, the second best known is called Dinitrol, who have a variety of different products depending on what you're doing with them and theres a new pretender from a company called Bilt-Hamber. I've used their water based deruster which is just magic, dissolve some non toxic non corrosive powder in warm water, soak the part for 24 hours and the rust all is dissolved away. They do a cavity wax that I'm going to try out when I've done the rockers on my truck. I'm also going to do the inside of the cab corners with it. The wax never quite sets so it's self healing, i.e. you get a small scratch in it and it will close up over it, just seals out water and oxygen from the steel.

These are some steel shutters from my french house that I derusted in Bilt-Hambers Deox-c, they were very heavily corroded, a quick blast over with a wire wheel in a grinder and then a 24 hour soak. rh is before middle after and the end one painted.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/Lippyp/French%20House/shutters.jpg

Could you find any links to the different products you listed! And nice rock wall in the back ground!! With the body wax what do you use to apply? East wood has a kit that is kind of like a suction sprayer. It sucks the product out of the container and shoots it in thru a rod of flexable hose that I think will make it great for getting up into the windshield area!

Kevin
LFD Inc

looking good dude

Waxoyl's website is here http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/waxoyl.htm
Dinitrol is here http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/
Bilt-Hamber is here http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/shoppingbasket.php

Waxoyl comes in cans that can be applied with either a simple pastic pump and tube with a nozzle that fits straight on the gallon cans or it can be applied using a compressor powered gun, same with Dinitrol, the Bilthamber Dynax wax comes in a big aerosol with a built in tube. All of them will benefit from being stood in a bucket of hot water for a while to make sure the wax is as runny as possible, ideally you want a warm day to apply it on so the wax will flow into the nooks and crannys and joints, however do it out of direct sunlight, if a panel is too hot it'll just slide right off! Once it's set then its not a problem. It's a horrible messy job though, drive the vehicle onto a sheet of plastic that you can throw away afterwards, wear some really old clothes and a hat and just be prepared to pump a couple of gallons into all the box sections, inside panels and doors etc (drill holes if neccesary and then plug with little plastic plugs). I know waxoyl and Dinitrol also do an underseal type product in black or clear for use on the underside of the vehicle too.

Lippyp~ Thanks I will check into this stuff. I am sure it is messy but well worth doing if you want to slow/stop the rust in these trucks. As for applying it this is one of the main reasons I designed the Tip & Flip dolly. My first cab was so bad (under a great paint job) that their was no saving it and I told my self I would not waist my time building one if I can not stop this from happening.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well I'm new to this site and happened across this project.

I have been working towards doing a crew cab out of a suburban for several years. I have cut down several rusted out 'burbs to learn how they were assembled. And I have already done many hours of dreaming along with that. And after looking at all of your pictures from your project there has been nothing that you have shown me that I already have not planned for. Though I was not looking at changing the 'burb roof line I was going to redefine the rear cab panel to match. I'm still mixed about which way to go now. The lower roof line looks better (like it should be done).

I do have a couple of questions:
1) How did you work the roof line down did you cut the roof off at the drip rail and work it out or did you cut and splice it in middle?
2) I noticed that when you cut out for the 4th door that you removed the vin plate. I have been working with a local TXDot officer and he will not accept it with the vin plate tampered with. He looks at it like it is unidentifiable and considers it to be stolen. So do you have a plan about how it will be identified?

Thanks for any input Brian

'72 Chevy Cheynne L/B 1/2 ton (daily driver)
'72 Chevy C/10 s/b, 1/2 ton (for sale)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 'burb, 3/4 ton
'72 Chevy Cheynne 'burb, 1/2 ton (soon to be crew'd)
'70 Chevy C/10, 1 ton, flat bed (shop truck)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 3/4 ton l/b (project)
'66 Toyota Landcruiser
'64 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
'67 chevy 3/4 ton, 4X4 l/b not running (for sale)
many 69-72 parts trucks

Ttt

First off the roof was already done when it came to me. It looks likew they cut it off about 1.5" up from the rain gutter and slid the upper section down over the lower and welded it their. Not what I would have done but it is ok all the same.

As far as the VIN plate it was inspected by the proper people and documentation was taken for verifacation. I the vin plate will go back in but in the fourth door jamb again by the proper authoritys. Not an easy task but when you know people and spend the time asking before you just do it, it seems to help. Good luck with state!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Keep up the great work, man I lvoe this build thread

The door hinges are ready so I will be setting door gaps and starting on the pass side for rust repair soon. In the mean time I snuck a 2wd blazer project into the shop for a few days of work. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=194823 need to brake things up now and then;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here is a picture of the door hinges that were bead blasted and new pins installed. If we get a warm day I can primer them.

Well it's good to hear that someone has thought about how to make a project legal.

I don't know how many times I have tried to tell people that they need to start by talking with DOT officers. Doing this in the beginning can save a lot of time & money. Been there done that.

Heck they can be your friend or they can be your enemy, I want them on my side.

Have you noticed that any of the newer 73-92 suburbans & crew cabs offer very similar rear door hinges?

'72 Chevy Cheynne L/B 1/2 ton (daily driver)
'72 Chevy C/10 s/b, 1/2 ton (for sale)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 'burb, 3/4 ton
'72 Chevy Cheynne 'burb, 1/2 ton (soon to be crew'd)
'70 Chevy C/10, 1 ton, flat bed (shop truck)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 3/4 ton l/b (project)
'66 Toyota Landcruiser
'64 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
'67 chevy 3/4 ton, 4X4 l/b not running (for sale)
many 69-72 parts trucks
'55 2 ton dump body grain truck

Have you noticed that any of the newer 73-92 suburbans & crew cabs offer very similar rear door hinges?


Yes I have but the differance in door thickness creates porblems in getting the door to swing full open. Or you can get it to swing full open but your dor gaps are on the wide side. We just used stock 3rd door hinges and rebuilt them backwards! Hinge pin in from the bottom and then just mount it upside down;) Plus when this is finished we are going for a completly stock (as stock as it would have been) look with the conversion.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

So is it wrong of me to be a bit happy that this one is not a true 4 door. They sure did a great job building it, I only hope our finished product is this nice but with 25% more door!! We will be starting back this weekend on the 68 crew cab project so stay tuned for more (over 100 so far) pic's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

whats up with the grill in that thing. otherwise a great looking truck

It looks like a 4 door in the picture with the rear door handle on the drivers side until you read the details of the truck. I wonder what frame he used or maybe used 2 frames to build it, he did not say in his description.

From the pictures it looks like they just lengthened the undercab portion on the frame with straight C channel steel?

anybody got a link to that one?

Here ya go

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4631982693&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Thanks!

So is it wrong of me to be a bit happy that this one is not a true 4 door. They sure did a great job building it, I only hope our finished product is this nice but with 25% more door!! We will be starting back this weekend on the 68 crew cab project so stay tuned for more (over 100 so far) pic's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nope, not wrong in the least. I have been following this thread and see the amazing amount of work you have done on this truck. Although that truck on Ebay is a beautiful truck, it was still the easy way. The right way is very rarely the easy way.

You are definatly doing it the right way!

To The Top

Im like a lil kid on Christmas(The Nondenominational Holiday for the politically correct) waiting to open my presents...


More Pics

any updates? Please???

ttt

great work ROKCRLN, i have really enjoyed reading this thread. it has reallg gottem me thinking about my project again. i'm looking forward to finishing the mods on the frame this week.

a quick question if you don't mind. i know you have a pile of tools your using to do the mods and repairs so i was wondering if you might give us a little run down of the tools your using and possibly a a pic or two of your favorites.

thanks,
ondrew

Been awhile since we had an update. Any new progress?
Mike

Been awhile since we had an update. Any new progress?
Mike

OK OK OK!!! I got back on it today and had some real good progress. I do this as a side job and for the last few weks I have been working all kinds of hours at my day job trying to get the Oakland Int. Airport expansion project finished up and now that it is I have some time to play again!

I had to create a door pillar gap at the 4th door front edge and here is what I did for the upper gap. First I marked out what I wanted for a nice gap and then I had to cut down the door to create the space. I cut the leading edge of the window rail and in doing so I exposed the three layers of metal that make this area up. So what I had to do was cut the gap about 1/16" larger than I wanted and then stitch it back up. That is the easy part, the hard part is then grinding the welded edge to a perfect straite edge because you can not use body filler in this area. Once I had it with in a bout 1/16" I turned to a hand file for the fine tunning. This is alot of work but if you want it to look correct than you just have to do it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Now the lower part of the door where it meets the front door had to be seamed in order to finish it off. When I built the door I ended up with a single layer of metal along the front edge. This single layer needs to be made stronger and fine tuned to create a nice gap. This was alot easier then the top edge because I did not need to worry about the over lap of metals. What I did added a wire edge to get everything how I wanted it. You start with TIG welding rod as your filler and tack it in place along the inside edge of the door to add strength and you can also adjust the wire in and out to get your gap how you want it. I started at the bottom of the door and started tacking it and bending it as I went up the door edge. Once you get it tacked then go back and start welding it all in solid by doing several passes with tack welds untill it is all linked. Then start grinding the edge down untill it is close to where it needs to be then pull out the long file and finish it up by hand to fine tune the edge. The last part I had to do was finish off the B pilar bottom between the two doors with a small cap. Now that this is done I think I am finished with the drivers side and will start the passenger side this week.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Tomatocity talked about you alot. (All good) Feel bad I never made it over your way before I moved. I don't think I would have said anything though. I would have wanted to just watch.

Thanks for sharing this with us.

I cut the leading edge of the window rail and in doing so I exposed the three layers of metal that make this area up. So what I had to do was cut the gap about 1/16" larger than I wanted and then stitch it back up. That is the easy part, the hard part is then grinding the welded edge to a perfect straite edge because you can not use body filler in this area. Once I had it with in a bout 1/16" I turned to a hand file for the fine tunning. This is alot of work but if you want it to look correct than you just have to do it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's exactly what I did when I rounded the door corners on my '61. It is time consuming but well worth it! Nice work!

Wow.

Just...wow.

:agree:

Just too :c2: We need to have a nothern Cali mini meet when this thing is done.

I think I have enough truck to make a mini meet at my house, ask my neighbors, they will agree. They seem to follow me home. I can only keep so many before I had to turn them away, but I still have room at my daughter's house.

not to be a cridical a=hole, i know you didn't do the roof but do you have plans on staightening the skin? it looks prety flat in the rear in comparisom to the front

not to be a cridical a=hole, i know you didn't do the roof but do you have plans on staightening the skin? it looks prety flat in the rear in comparisom to the front

This has been discussed but we are working on all the rot first! The rear has the profile of a truck cab and teh front is all burb. The PO over layed the burb roof all the way to th erear body seam line of the truck cab. We have tossed ideas around from a high gloss white paint job to slicing the front and lowering it down to match the front all the way to removing the entire roof and use a donor roof off an older van with the roof ridges.


Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here is th ework for the night. I removed the cab corner and most of the 3rd door rocker and it was not as bad as I thought it would be. The metal is in decent shape and the lower "C" post was in fact their. When we felt inside the cab corner before it felt as if it was chopped out with an Axe. In fact what they did was cut off the Truck lower post an dthe upper Burb post and then over layed them. I will keep this part as is even know we have a new piece for it, I just do not see any reason to replace it. As you can see in the last Pic the bottom of the "B" post is mostly gone and the PO covered it all up with fiber glass so we did not see it untill this project was under way. I need to fix this area before removing the rest of the rocker then I will replace the 3rd door rocker and inner. After that is done I will brace the sh!t out of the windshield and dash area before I remove the entire windshield post due to rust. After it all back inplace I will finish up the front rocker.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your workmenship is incredable and it's amazing what you get done ine your spare time. it seems when i'm working nothing at all gets done at home on my truck or anything else

As long as I am alone I get alot done. Also my head has to be into what I am doing otherwise I go no were!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

looking good

As long as I am alone I get alot done.Isn't that amazing...even with those who know what to do around - you can accomplish a lot more by yourself. I'm with you there.

Ok the rear rocker and cab corner will be ready to go back in once this stuff dries. I finished trimming everything away back to good (well better) metal and than coated the sh!t out of everything with a rust inhibitor product I am trying out. I even got way up in side the rear cab suport with this stuff. It is suposed to convert rust into a none rust somthing or other. You can weld right over it or paint over it as well. It goes on like Elmers glue but dries to a black finish. Thursday I should have the B pillar finished and start getting the 3rd rocker and corner in place. While I am doing the corner and rocker I think I will tweak things abit to get the door to fit right at the bottom. I don't know what it is but almost every Burb that I have seen has the same problem as this one does. The bottom rear of the door below the body line sticks out past the door jamb just a bit. This one was worse than most so now is the time to correct that. Also I had to cut the bottom of the B pillar open inside the rocker in order to get out all the durt and rust that has bult up over the years. It was packed solid and I had to jab and pry some of it out but it is now nice and clean.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rockrln, I know what you mean about welding up door edges. I did the same thing to all of the gaps on a 67 shelby gt 500 that the customer wanted better than new. I also hand filed all of the gaps to match all the way around the door. I also did that with all of the fiberglass and scoops on the car. Lots of fun. Nice job on this one.

More and more miracle work with a hammer, and a welder