Had some time tonight to get the rear cab corner welded in and lined up with the door body line. I am not sure what was off but with the top body line alined the bottom one was about 3/8" to low. The corner was not replaced before but the truck cab could have been just a bit off from the burb door opening so I adjusted things before welding. I also brought the corner profile in line with the door since the door also did not line up that way! Next will be the rear rocker and "B" post bottom repair. I left the edge of the corner that wraps around the jamp un welded for now until the rocker is ready to weld incase I need to tweek things abit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Dayum son, you do good work!

Your project completely blows me away....WOW you are amazing! Great...or more like.... Incredible work dude!!!

Now the real fun has begun! Removal and replacement of the pass side A post. I thought it had been fixed or scabed onto before and one I cut it open I was right. In the past some PO had repaired the rust by cutting part of the post off and scabing on a new section over the old one. They left all the inner rust un-treated and now it shows. First ting I did was braced off the opening and added two alignment bars. These are set right to th einside lip of the where the new window chanel must sit. The top one is set right into the upper corner as well for a better alignment. After removing the small section for inspection you can see where the added skin was installed in the past as well as the remainder of the old section rusting away. If you look close you can see the old lips of the chanel and the new old section added and blended at the outer edge. The new post we have will be installed from the floor to the roof and accross most of the passenger upper door opening.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

And the last two for Now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin
I have been following the project with utter amazment at your skills. Are you keeping track of how many hours you have in it? just kinda wondering. Mike

Kevin
I have been following the project with utter amazment at your skills. Are you keeping track of how many hours you have in it? just kinda wondering. Mike

Yes and by each task as well!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Awesome Kevin!!! Just Amazing!!! Keep the pics flying...

Rokcrln.. Every time I see your avatar guy I stop and read whatever it is you are talking about. I cant begin to tell you how impressed I am with all of your work I have seen so far. I live in orange county cal. In garbage grove ''Garden-Grove''. I absolutely have got to own a crew cab 4x4 dually fifth wheel set up with a diesel power plant behind it. I work full time as a long-shoremen in L A harbor but I am just moving into a shop I just bought about a mile from my house. I am going to build old trucks,and and some 4x4's pretty much old stuff. I used to rent a shop a couple of years ago but it got to expensive and had to let it go. I have been building at my house but it's getting out of hand. It's taken alot to get this new place and I cant wait ,one more week and escrow will close. GOD-WILLING....Any way I have got a couple of old subs but I dont no exactly where and what to start with and I know you do. I am sure it would be better to start with an actual crew cab but dont know how easy or costly it would be. Because I want to go with a diesel I might be better off using a newer frame and running gear. But I realize that gm has gone to the independent front end and I just prefer the old dana 60 f and 70 r tried and true. In your opinion what should I collect. Maby a fully functional older gm one ton. And possibly cut up a sub like that black one on ebay last month. That did look pretty sweet, ofcourse I didnt see it in person. Then there was that wierd lookin one out of oregon that was blue and white but the bed seemed to short I think that although it was a factory truck it seemed like the length of a sub. factory wack job . I dont know...Please give me a moment of your time I would appreciate it. Maby you can point me in the right direction and possibly find or sell me something......THANK-YOU...

Good luck with Escro it can be a pain. First off just so we are talking the same thing. 67-72 crew cabs were all custom built never came from the factory that way. People used a Burb or chopped up a few trucks to get what they wanted. As far as frames go this one is sitting on a mid 80's crew cab long bed 3/4 ton frame (you just need to put th ebody mounts were they are neded) and running gear. If you have the $ to find a new Diesel frame and motor I would start with that for the added frame strenght. As far as the front end being IFS just find a dana 60/70 from a Ford that way your driveline is on the drivers side like the chevy IFS is set up for. Then just make some spring hangers and a cross over high steer set up and you are half way their. Then take a burb and cut the back of the cab off and slap on a truck cab rear section while it is still on the stock frame. Once that is done then pull the body and drop it befind the Duromax and start lining things up to fit onto the new frame. Don't be surprised if you end up cutting out the whole fire wall in order to get the fenders to fit over the wheels and the radiator to fit behind the grill. By swaping your own straite axel into the front you can place it where you want it and lessen the fire wall clearance problems some what. I have thought about doing this with a PSD I own for a tow rig but I have one or two things to finish first. Have fun and keep us posted.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here is my before lunch work. I have it ready to do some fine tuning on the new post before test fitting. Once it fits and all bolts go back in then I will remove the post and prep and treat everything before welding it in for good. Then this will leave a little bit of patching at the kick panel location as well as around the headliner location.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Things are looking up, parts fit well with a bit of moving and pushing. The jamb is spot welded in and ready for some small filler pieces. I had to cut out more than I wanted to due to previous damage but it still is only a small sliver when you concider what we started with. What really sucks is once this is all welded in and patched up I will need to cut it back apart to replace teh kick panel bottom and bottom of teh A post. I could have done it before installing the post but since it is in fairly good shape and has never been damaged I felt it would fit better this way. Then rocker party time! Here are a few pic's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

And I thought we were going to make it a convertible, cut it at the roof and make a new top for it. Not too many 4 door crew cab convertibles around here and it would not be duplicated. Not by any sane person at least. Looks good Kevin, a lot better than when I saw it this afternoon and looked like the rust had gotten the best of the A pillar. You had a big pile of rusty parts this afternoon. A now a moment of silence for the GMC truck that gave up its cab for this crew cab to get a new A pillar. :drama:

The truck on ebay was a suburban conversion. The guy who owns Host campers and used to own a part of Beaver motor coaches in Bend Oregon built it. The truck is a 3 door with 4th as a fake. My buddy bought the truck a few months ago and learned how expensive these trucks can be. So he sold it. The frame and body all sub just chopped. Look at the back window it's bigger then stock.The roof is still sub too. My dad built a stretch cab years ago. I just wanted to say keep up the good work and you guys are doing a great job. I can't wait to see it when it is done. Thanx Dana

The new post is welded in enough to start cutting everything else out:( I will have some work to do on the pass side rain gutter to get things right. Before we cut into it the gutter had some real bad waves to it and now that the front 1/3 is good it make the rest look like crap. I think I will end up just fabricating a new outer edge of the gutter so we end up with a nice strait line.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I then test fit the new rockers, A pillar bottom and kick panel just to see how bad things would be and I was pleased with how it just fell together. At this point I have not trimmed anything yet, I just put a few clamps on to get a better view of where things are going. Tomarrow I will work on bending up the inner rockers and floor patches (3rd door fool mainly) and get that all tacked in. Then I will trim the rest of the parts and screw everything in place for a door fitment check. If that goes ok then I will melt it all in and move back up to the roof.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

rokcrln...Thanks for the tips this is exactly what im gonna do....I dont no for sure but by what you said the driveline for a IFS comes out on the drivers side so ill need a axle from a ford and then a cross-over steering set-up. This sounds good but is the transfercase/ 4x4 gear box as strong as a 205.. Is it possible to use a 2-wd duramax and go with a divorced 205. Or am I gonna run into to many headaches. And what would be the best year engine to go with if I had access to any of them.I hear that some years are better than others....Guy I know your time is valuable. And I just want you to know that I appreciate your response so far. I'm not just shootin the breeze. Everything you have told me so far is going direclty into my ''baby'' I mean truck... I hope you dont mind but I have catalogged most of what you have done so far strictly for my own build reference........ THANK-YOU-AGAIN AND THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO KEEP US ALL POSTED......

No problem and use the info for what ever you want that is why I post it. As far as engines and T-cases I have no clue as to what is better. But I am sure you can do a 2wd to a divorced case with out much trouble. All my 4x4 info is for rock crawling and we use Atlass II cases that is not needed for street use but would hold up to what you want and can bolt to almost any tranny. Check with advanced adapters for info.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Its gonna be one of those ultra rare option test vehicles that will even fool GM :lol:
Great Work
Shane

rokcrln... Thank you . And I have used advanced adapters for quite a few projects. My sister lives in the area up there. I have already started my research on wich truck to start with alot of these guys on this website are friggin ''diesel guru's'' so with there help and yours I'll be able to get a handle on this project without spinnin my wheels to much and wasting money I dont have....Thanks again.....

wow

Lookin' awsome Kevin! Thanks for keepin us all updated!
After everything you've done on this cab you should be able to pound off a half dozen crew cabs in no time..!! let's see..six cabs X 20k each....;)

can i come out and visit you?

Not alot but still progress is progress. I had a little over an hour to kill tonight so I got started by cutting off a perfictly good bottom B pillar:crazy: I did this so I could cut off the rest of the inner rocker that runs from the front door to the back door. This also allows me to runn the new inner panel thru the B post area and have all fresh metal. Once that was cut off I trimmed the floor back to good metal and then set my new panel in place and scribed a line for a but weld. I welded that seam up and ground down the welds and called it a night. Next I will finish up the vertical returns and bend up a rear door inner rocker with plenty of extra floor metal to patch in all I had to remove back their.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That looks horrible :lol: Get some skills man... ;)

That looks horrible :lol: Get some skills man... ;)


Heck I wish they all looked this good to start with. If they did I might have some free time to work on my junk!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Your fab skills are awesome man, looks great! One question, do you think it would have been less work to start with a clean, solid burb from scratch, or would the amount of work involved equal out in the long run?

Your fab skills are awesome man, looks great! One question, do you think it would have been less work to start with a clean, solid burb from scratch, or would the amount of work involved equal out in the long run?

When you cincider it was already on a crew cab long bed frame (all custom body mounts) and already had a cab slapped on the back it would be close. I would of rather started with all good metal just from a builder stand point but this truck looked much cleaner that it turned out to be due to the PO extensive work with bondo and fiber glass.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Hi Kevin, I've been following your thread here with interest. I am in the process of doing a rodstoration on my 71 Burb (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=201049)and am now into the floors... I need to pick your brain a little...

First, I noticed a dimple in the flange on the edge of the floorpan where the lower kickpanel & the lower front door pillar meet. Is that dimple for the lower front door pillar? I need to do a repair in that area on both sides.

Second, concerning part fitment. How well does that 3rd door outer rocker fit including the fitment on the B & C pillars & the flanges where the weatherstripping will go? Is it fairly close to the original? I've noticed that my front rockers do not have a sharp bend on the flange area like the originals did and they also fit like crap at the bottom of the A pillar(a lot of hammer work needed). Do your fronts fit any better? Also, the lower front pillar, how's the fit on that?

Thanks!
Joe

Well to start with the front dimple is for the front corner of the kick panel.

I do not expect any after market sheet metal patch part to fit right out of the box. I plan time to re-work every part. Do not think it is one company over another as they are all about the same. Some part fit great one time and not th enext and they may be from the same co. and labled the same.

As far as rocker fitment to the front A post they all fit up short. If you want a perfect fit (full show truck or somthing) you will need to by 2 rocker and section them to fit just right. Also alot of the time you will need to section the threshold area to get a factory gap along the bottom of the door. Now 95% of the time you can get one rocker to work just fine with a bit of hammer and dolly work.

Last as far as the third rocker goies I can not tell you how it fits because this truck was cut in the middle of the door opening and a truck cab was grafted on. As I am re-doing things I am working it al back to how it should have been done the first time.

Check back Saturday and Sunday and I should have the rest of the pass side done.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I was able to get the third door rocker, inner rocker and floor all finished today. The only part left is to re-hang the door and finish the cab corner. This will take some pulling force to get things all correct because when the PO put the cab section on it was not quite right. But we will fix that!

As you can see I made my own inner rocker panel to also fix the floor patch at the same time. You can also see if you just went with the inner panel that you can buy their would have been alot of extra work left. I then replaced the bottom of the B post and fit up both rockers and hung the doors to check fitment. It was all good so I removed the doors and started welding. Just a note all parts were coated with rust preventer prior to over lapping any areas! I also got the front A post bottom complete.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Wish I had you at my place today! Great job, I love watching your work come together!

Got another hour knocked out! So now to get the pass side finished I have the rear cab corner to do a final alignment before welding at the jamb, create that door bumper mount on the pass side front rocker (burb only),finish welding in the kick panel part of the new windshield post, patch the rest of the kick panel and re-build the rain gutter above the pass side. Then smooth out the fire wall and it should be ready for blasting and body work to start!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I'm impressed.

this is just awesome. great work man

Looks sweet... Thanks for the info. I am doing my floors similar to how you are. I had my local sheetmetal shop bend me up 2- 7' legnths of sheetmetal in the same profile(I cut a piece of my innerrocker/floorpan out to use as a template). I am going to cut/modify from there to duplicate the original parts. I was able to salvage the rear part of my pass front rocker to reuse on the new rocker. I've already cut up a rocker to duplicate the original bumper mount. It was some work but came out OK. Good luck & keep them pics coming!

Truly amazing. I can't wait for the next installment. This is better than TV. And since I am stuck away from my trucks, has the wheels spinning so to speak. Can't wait to get off the road and back on my projects. Thanks, Kerry

That looks great. I've always been interested in body work like that, not sure how hard it is to weld the thin sheet metal though. Any tips? that is gonna look sweet when you're done.

wow o wow!!

I started the morning off by making up the mid kick panel patch and getting that all finished. Then I moved up the post to complete the post graft for the new pass front door jamb and winshield post. Completed the front rocker door bump (burb only) and then went to hang the doors. Found one of the hinge pockets were cracked fso off it came to get repaired. Once that was done I alligned all the doors and they fit real nice to each other but the rear had some issues. When this cab back was originaly put on by the PO they did not have things set just right so we have been corecting things as we go. I had to massage the door latch area inward about 3/16" just to get the latch to close with out dragging. Got that working great but this still left the door gap at the rear of the third door to deal with. When I replaced the cab corner I took care of the problem we had with the door sticking out about 3/8" only from the lower body line down (the rest fit nice:confused: ). So not untill I was happy with all the adjusting for all other gaps did I start to hem the door edge to get the right door gap. This is were I stopped so I can grab a bit to eat and then back to the shop for more fun.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Forgot to mention I finished welding up th eback side of the rockers and braces as well!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

If only the factory made them this strait! It is hard to see it in the first pic but the upper gap is 5/16" and the bottom went out to 1/2". I ended up adding a 1/8" rod tight at the top of the door and by th etime it was at the botom bottom of the door I had brought it out to 1/4". Then on the Jamb I used 1/8" rod at the bottom to just above the lower body line and then changed to 1/16" rod from their to about center of the jamb. Once they were welded up on both sides and gound smooth I then shut the door and took an .040 think cutting wheel on a diegrinder and cut the gap strait and to an 1/8" top to bottom. All it needs now is a build primmer and block sanding. I like this kind of stuff. I can't wait to get started on "Project Lemon Drop" , it is all about 1/8" gaps every where and a bunch of other cool mods. The best part is their is absolutly ZERO rust repair to do to it:metal:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Finished the inside of the roof today and I am now starting on the drip rail on the pass side. It is real bad but not so much fromn rust just a bad install job. It curved in almost 1/2" tward the center and their was about 8" that was rusted out. The new section I am putting in is about 32" x 18ga.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Let the rains come down (after rust proofing):) Drip rail is ready for rust profing and the third door is about half way done (curved window rail) and I will finish the rest after lunch. Ya I know I ate yesterday but I am still hungry:hm:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice work sir, keep after it. Who needs food!?

That is looking sweet Kevin!! BTW, thanks for the tip on fitting the cab corner! Worked like a Swiss watch! The curve now matches the door perfectly.

Thanks again!

Rokcrln, Go ahead and put me in line for a one of those fine quality crew cabs! I will start looking for the frame and everything else.

Just did the Hot Rod Power Tour. At my first gas stop, as I was stretching, I turned to my buddy and say "and for my next project, I'll be building a crew cab!"

I love watching your progress. Thanks for keeping us all posted!
Dean

Fire wall 101:aw:

This is one of the easiest ways to smooth your fire wall for in cab AC. EXTD56 will need to tell us what brand it is. They give you a plate that is designed to mount on the fire wall to cover up all the holes and provide mounting for the heater/cool box. All I did was took that plate and recessed it into the fire wall for a cleaner look.

Here is the process.
First remove your heater and any thing inside the cab that WILL burn.
Take your fire wall plate and remove the foam from the back side of it and clean all edges that will be getting welded.
Clamp it to the fire wall and use a sharp scribe to mark the out side of it.
Now just cut right up to your mark. The cleaner your cut is the better because you do not want much if any of a gap since that will take more welding (and we know welding= heat and that = warp city) and grinding.
Once it fits good start tacking it in place making sure it is flush before welding. If it is off a bit just take your hammer and dolly (no not your kids Dolly) and work the edge to get it straite. Once you are tacked about every inch you are ready to start welding it up. Skip about 4 tack welds each time and work your way back around. I also made a plate for the fan hole and started it the same way. Once I make one turn around skipping welds I will go to the next plate giving the first plate time to cool. Repeat untill you are all welded up. Then start grinding, I like to use a 4" .040 cut off wheel for weld grinding and then I switch to an air grinder with 3" disks (50g, 80g, 120g) and you should be ready for some epoxy primer and fill primer.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Start to finish it took about 3hrs. Keep in mind I had no prep time since it was already apart. Also what I like about doing it this way is you end up with a real nice inside finish that makes it easy to seal and prevent rust. When you just fill in the stock holes you end up with that lip/edge that can catch moisture and start rusting after awhile.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Looking great. I wish you had a tv crew documenting this - I would watch it over all other truck/car shows currently on tv!

rokcrln,
man you have some really good skills!! it is going to be awsome to see your final work. i am assuming that when all said & done this will look similar to the cover truck in classic trucks the gold & white one from pro designs. i can't wait t osee some more pics. i do have a question or two for you though. they are to get your opinion on how to do something. i am trying to "cut" about a 1/2" from the top & bottom of the x-member that used to hold the carrier bearing on my '72 chevy 1/2 ton 2wd p/u. i am wondering if you could tell me a good tool to use (i don't have a plasma cutter or any of those fancy tools alike) i was thinking maybe a airsaw with a steel blade??? i am running a 1 pc. driveshaft & woould like a little more clearancearound there. the truck is lowered 5" rear & 4.5" fr.it is a small area & not sure what would fit around there... thanks for any input!!!!!

[QUOTE=Rokcrln]Fire wall 101:aw:

This is one of the easiest ways to smooth your fire wall for in cab AC. EXTD56 will need to tell us what brand it is. They give you a plate that is designed to mount on the fire wall to cover up all the holes and provide mounting for the heater/cool box. All I did was took that plate and recessed it into the fire wall for a cleaner look.

I got the a/c plates from old air, I think they were about 25.00 which they will deduct from the kit price when you buy the unit from them. It usually comes in the a/c kit and is a bolt in deal unless you have a good welder like Kevin to make it look even better.

rokcrln,
man you have some really good skills!! it is going to be awsome to see your final work. i am assuming that when all said & done this will look similar to the cover truck in classic trucks the gold & white one from pro designs. i can't wait t osee some more pics. i do have a question or two for you though. they are to get your opinion on how to do something. i am trying to "cut" about a 1/2" from the top & bottom of the x-member that used to hold the carrier bearing on my '72 chevy 1/2 ton 2wd p/u. i am wondering if you could tell me a good tool to use (i don't have a plasma cutter or any of those fancy tools alike) i was thinking maybe a airsaw with a steel blade??? i am running a 1 pc. driveshaft & woould like a little more clearancearound there. the truck is lowered 5" rear & 4.5" fr.it is a small area & not sure what would fit around there... thanks for any input!!!!!

Hard to say but if it out of the truck I would say drop by a muffler shop and have them slice some of it out. But since it is probly in the truck and with out the easy tools I would try a 4" cut off wheel and a grinder and just take your time and be safe doing it (welding gloves and a long sleve jacket, glasses and hearing protection). Draw the line you want to cut and take the grinder and all you want to do is scratch the metal on your first pass and then each pass after that just go a little deeper. It is the easy but it can be done. Then after you are done use a die grinder to clean it up or a rat tail file. Good luck!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

rokcrln,
thanks for the input i do have a 4.5" grinder i used to cut the rivets for the carrier bearing. as i was looking (laying) under the truck i thought that a smaller grinder would work but i also thought that my 4.5" grinder wouldn't make that turn at the top of the x-mbr. i guess i can see the fit a little more & if need be i can buy a cheap 4" grinder from harbor freight tools to get it done quick. thanks for the safety tips i agree i always wear that stuff when grinding... uuhhh playing in the garage!!!
thanks again!! ___ rodstored-72

rokcrln,
thanks for the input i do have a 4.5" grinder i used to cut the rivets for the carrier bearing. as i was looking (laying) under the truck i thought that a smaller grinder would work but i also thought that my 4.5" grinder wouldn't make that turn at the top of the x-mbr. i guess i can see the fit a little more & if need be i can buy a cheap 4" grinder from harbor freight tools to get it done quick. thanks for the safety tips i agree i always wear that stuff when grinding... uuhhh playing in the garage!!!
thanks again!! ___ rodstored-72

No problem but if you are going to by a cheapy tool make it a small right angle air grinder/cut off and some 3" cut off wheels. It might fit better but the 4 1/2" should do it if you hold it straite at the cross member and use the very front for the cutting and not the normaly used side cutting method.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well the cab work is done for now and ready to set up the seat mounts this week and then it is off to blasting and sealing:metal:

I cut in the rear Cargo Light tonight so that part is finished up so thier is one more box to check off the list!

Kevin

why'd you add a cargo light? it was nice and smooth without it.

I wonder why this got moved? It seamed to cover just about every area of repair that you could do to our year cabs!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I wonder why this got moved? It seamed to cover just about every area of repair that you could do to out year cabs!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I was thinking the same thing????

I wonder why this got moved? It seamed to cover just about every area of repair that you could do to out year cabs!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

As they say, "no good deed goes unpunished" .... thanks for posting all the pictures in this thread, that is what made this a great thread... but it also may have lead to the move.

I vote it should be back in the 67-72 message board.

I'm not generally not prone to whining but this thread obviously has great value to darn near all of us. I too think it should be in the 67-72 forum, barring that maybe paint and body?

I wonder why this got moved? It seamed to cover just about every area of repair that you could do to out year cabs!

Kevin
LFD Inc.
I agree!

My Lord ya'll it was a mistake... most peoples buildups are in this section, which is why I moved it here.
Next time, instead of going on about it in the post... PM one of us and ask.
I apologize for the oversight, silly human thing about not being perfect ..........
:(


As they say, "no good deed goes unpunished" .... thanks for posting all the pictures in this thread, that is what made this a great thread... but it also may have lead to the move.

I vote it should be back in the 67-72 message board.

I truely hope you don't believe that the mods and admins here are out to get people.

Hey all just so everyone know Liz sent me a very nice PM explaining why it was move. Like she said above it is where alot of builds are done and she thought it would get alot of exposure here, that is all!

But you all like me go to one place for your daily drugs and when our dealer is not on the same street corner we panic. Liz said she will move it back and she would like to see it end up in FAQ and so would I once the build is finished.

Thanks for listening and following this thread. I have several more builds starting up and I will figure out the best place to post them all. Speaking for my sefl I am not very good at navigating on this site because they do offer so much on one site that I get frustrated but at the same time it forces me to see areas I never knew were their.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

For me, I like that it was moved. It was hard finding it in the other forum since all the other builds were being done here. It doesn't matter where it is, I just like following your work. It is inspiring to me and keeps me motivated...

Sit down in your chair right their and let me tell you how it's done! (C.D. devil went down to Georgia):lol:

Started the seat install by first doing layout and placement for the fronts. Also to make sure things are plenty strong enough for the intergrated seat belts I placed the mounting points in the stock locations. What this will do is allow me to double up th emetal under the floor and also tie that metal into the cab floor support. For the best height it ment having to notch out the rear seat rails. I did this just by slicing the floor open an inch on each side of the slider and reworked the floor brace to allow the section to be flattened out. I welded each layer back together before moving to the next piece. This keeps everything as strong as posible. The front of the seat will mount in the stock small hump that the factory seat bolted into and once I double up the metal under the floor with break shape it will be just fine. Here is were it is tonight and I hope to have the fronts done in a day or so then get to the back seat.

The rear will require alot more fab work both for the floor mounts as well as the seat mounts to get them all level and at the desired height. Also their are two mounting plates that will weld into the rear of the cab to support the back of the seat.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

that's gonna be so awesome!

nice buildup! you can do some amazing work.

kevin, your awesome dude.

Here are the front seat brackets. I used 2 x 1/8" flat bar and tig'd on some square nuts to make it a bit easier for the owner to remove and install by him self. The two rear brackets weld in front to the factory seam the th estock seat bolted thru and then the reat outer bracket welds to the side of the cab mount support. The inner rear steps up and over the rear cab support brace and welds to the bottom of it as well. All in all I feel this will be a very safe set up for these seats that have the belts all in one.

The next cab (project Lemon Drop) in the shop will be getting the same treatment so when I get to that stage I will do a "how to" for the board and since it is on a Tip & Flip cab dolly it will make for great phot's to follow along as you do your own.

Kevin
LFD Inc

Thanks for moving it back!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice work!

Can someone copy this thread and removed all the replies but Rokcrln and his pics, clean it up a little and remove all the post like mine heh this sucker needs ot be archived.

When is it my turn????????????????
Just kidding Kevin, you can't rush an artist.

Nice work.

When is it my turn????????????????
Just kidding Kevin, you can't rush an artist.

Nice work.


It is comming real soon! I can't wait to get started. I just spent $2400 (thanks extd56:lol: ) on more shop tools. Thanks for being under standing. Your build will be my best fab work to date:)

Kevin
LFD Inc

It is comming real soon! I can't wait to get started. I just spent $2400 (thanks extd56:lol: ) on more shop tools. Thanks for being under standing. Your build will be my best fab work to date:)

Kevin
LFD Inc
Best yet?? I personally can't wait!!!