There is a lesson to be learned here.....but first....who has the best price on a fuel tank for a 1972 Suburban....steel or polly?

The lesson here is.......NEVER install a new fuel tank sending unit without testing it!!!! Now most of you will say...what a fool!?!?!?! Well.....I know we all use a multimeter and check the sending unit by raising the arm. But......how many of us test the BRAND NEW FLOAT on the BRAND NEW UNIT to see if it has pin holes before we install it??????? Gotcha there didnt I !!!!

After installing the new sending unit and driving it for a day the guage stopped working. I had to drop the tank 2 more times to figure out what was wrong. A FLOAT THAT WONT FLOAT. The sad part of this whole science project is the tank developed several pin hioles itself after all the up and down and now leaks faster than I can say J.B.Weld.

Needless to say I will never be using a factory looking float agin.
Plastic for me!!!!!!!

Floats that sink like a rock are never a good thing. I thankfully have never had it happen. I hate installing anything more than once. They say the third time is the charm though..........

Thanks for letting us learn from your experience.

I don't know who has the best price on the poly tanks, but MTS Company (http://www.mtscompany.com/chevy-gmc.htm) makes them and, IIRC, they still sell direct. Good price comparison starting point.

BTW, the 21 gallon blazer/sub poly tank only holds <20 gallons because the 21st gallon is built in air space at the top of the tank to allow for heat expansion. If you mount one, watch the exhaust routing. You might have to heat sheild the tank to keep the tail pipe(s) from melting the poly or heating the fuel.

If you have the 24 gallon tank worth keeping for its volume, you could have it refurbished by a Gas Tank Renu (http://www.gastankrenu.com/) franchise. Blasting, welding holes repair, and baked on process. Read "How it works." Lifetime guarantee. Shop around between franchises. I found prices from $375 (Kali) to $175 (Minn) for the same size tank. Price also varies due to the amount of labor involved based upon damage to the tank; like many pin holes, bashes, etc.

I bought this one recently and it's great so far. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8032421125&category=33556

FF,

Any pics of your new tank installed? I'm curious on how low it hangs.

R

We had a`67 Panel tank "renewed" by that franchise and it still leaked.I don`t have much faith in that,personally.I would sooner try to fit a newer tank if I wanted to have over 20 gallons.

FF,

Any pics of your new tank installed? I'm curious on how low it hangs.

R

It's the same size/shape as the factory tank and uses factory straps. The fuel inlet is smaller than factory, but I was able to clamp the new hose down tight enough. Here are some shots:

Thanks FF - Do you think that a late model ('06) fuel pump module would fit in the factory hole?

Rob

PS Apologies for high jacking thread.

No idea. If it fits the stock tank then yes. What are you going EFI?

I'm installing 2006 5.3/4L60E. I've got the factory pump module from the same truck, but I haven't pulled my tank yet to see if it will fit.

I bought this one recently and it's great so far. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8032421125&category=33556That's the MTS tank I linked. I have one too that I bought back in the mid '90s. Best tank out there, IMO, IF you don't need more than 20 gallons in the main tank. Beats the 16 gallon pickup tank if no spare tire space is needed under the bed. I think 20 gal is too little and makes at least one aux fuel tank necessary.

I think 20 gal is too little and makes at least one aux fuel tank necessary.

Especially with a big block! Good thing I have a short commute;)

I would call transfer flow and see what they offer in size. With the rising cost of fuel, it is really nice to have some in reserve when you find a good price, not to mention have enough to get you 5 or 600 miles down the highway without stopping. Just my 2 cents