I have a rather nice Snap On truck box mounted in the bed of my truck. This sucker is huge, and I love it. Been offered cash for it many times, but I refuse to sell it. However, it looks like ass.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=187175&stc=1&d=1141946437
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=187174&stc=1&d=1141946437

So I removed it from the truck today, and started to scrub it with some super clean, then I hosed it down with some alluminum cleaner, which has taken it to virgin alluminum. I'll be removing the stickers from it, and then wet sand it with some 1000 grit or so wet/dry paper. I'll do the sides, but I think the top, the diamond plate will be fine without the sanding.
Once I do that, I'll hit it with the buffer.... this is where my questions come in.
Do I simply use automotive rubbing compound, or is that too coarse to start off with? Do I just go straight to polish? I have some mothers mag and wheel polish that has done wonders on small pieces, but I don't know if it would quite get the look I am going for here... I want it to look like new, like chrome...or at least, like polished alluminum should look.

After that... how do I keep it looking good? I don't want it to ever look this bad again. Do i simply keep it clean, and wax it like it was a painted piece...every 6 months or so?
Also, do I need to polish it and then put on the new Snap On stickers... or do I need to put the stickers on before the polish? I can't see them sticking to the polished surface very well, but I can see the polish damaging the stickers if I buff over them.


What to do.. what to do.

You will probably need to use rouge or some other hard polishing compound with moderately stiff buffing wheels to get the sanding scratches out. Then hit it with the cream type stuff to really make it shine.

Just a suggestion Wenol aluminum polishing products work great for what you want to achieve. I use it often to polish aluminum valve covers and intakes.

I'm not sure if you can still buy this or not but I had good luck with DuPont red hand rubbing compound cut with a little water and a buffer. It might take 2 or 3 passes with that then jewelers rough to get the mirror look. I used it on tanks, steps, and even a tool box or two in my truck driving days. I tried all that high dollar stuff and never found anything better. Of course I went to my local DuPont dealer to check on paint for a project a year or so back and everything that I asked for is no longer available. I hate it when that happens.

Andy, after going over it with the 1000 grit you should step up to 1500-2000
grit paper. Go to Lowes and in their tool department they will have sticks
of polishing rouge. They will have about 6 or 7 different grits but you only
need to get the number 1-3-6. Use them in that order and you will have a
nice looking tool box. I would polish the box and than put the stickers on
if you plan on replacing them. Sounds like a lot of work...you bet it is... but
the end results will look great. I have seen some folks use tongue oil and
others spray with a clear to retain the shine. Can't say which is the best
though.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97179

this is about polishing aluminum that has some real good information and some other tips

sweet... keep the info coming if there is any more to know.
Is this polishing rouge very expensive?

I have one word for you, Flitz!
It's amazing stuff.

http://www.flitz.com/

By the way Andy, I got the glovebox lite today, THANKS!

Jeff

I used 00 steel wool pads on my top and sides where the scratches wasn't as bad then 1500 to 2000 grit paper where they was worse. the steel wool is a rough go but it sets up the buffing to be done later very nicely.

Rouge should not be too bad. Jewlers rouge comes in different colors and that relates to the cutting ability of the rouge. IMO I would NOT sand it at all. The rouge will cut it and remove scratches by itself. Green rouge is what a place in Cali, Mag Masters. 1419 E Edinger Av. Santa Ana, CA 92701. 714-543-8088, uses to buff out bad looking billet aluminum wheels. But what Ohiochevy said would be the way I would go. Just my humble opinion.

i'd start with a big box of brillo or sos soap pads first then a large can of comet scouring powder and a sponge then go with a circular buffer and metal polish of your choice(i like mothers) make sure to have lots of terrycloth to whipe the polish with then drop off at the powdercoated for a nice clear finish// you could also go the "machine turned look" if you do don't waste money on the eastwood kit

This has a lot of good info in it that shouldn't be lost. I'm moving it to detailng and I will leave a direct here to it.

California Customs aluminum cleaner/polish

Hey Andy,we`re neighbors!Welcome to Aluminum Polish Street,Detailville!!

andy before i did anything i would go to a boat shop that deals with alot of pontoon boats. i don't know what they use but i can tell you whatever it is it will save you alot of hard work.