I would like to soundproof the cab of my 66. In addition to installing matting on the firewall, rear, doors, etc, I am trying to figure out the best way to insulate the roof.

I am invisioning applying expanding foam between the the roof and the interior panel. Has anybody tried that? I figure if there is an escape route for any excess foam, there shouldn't be any sheetmetal deformation or swelling from the foam expanding too much.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Larry

I was told by an auto body man that the foam was the worst thing you could do as it traps moisture against the panels causing premature rustout. And water doesn't have to get in- did you ever see in a quick change of weather how water condenses on metal. Maybe sombody here knows of a better sound deadener .

..well yoy could start cramming fiberglass through the rear pillars....(joke)..just "dyna-mat" everything,floor and all it's amazing stuff and works very well....a aftermarket headliner will help too...someone has a picture here someplace too give you an idea just how it will look...

Yeah, I'm hearing about foam being a bad idea. I thought about fabricating a headliner over Dynamat, but I didn't know there were aftermarket ones available. I'll be hanging the cab on my rotisserie, so I figured I could turn it upside down and fabricate a form-fitting fiberglass backboard, then glue the headliner material to that. I'll have to find what SIR is talking about. I'll look for the post.

Thanks guys!

Larry

Who has headliners for the 60-66 chevys ???

www.roddoors.com

....I am invisioning applying expanding foam between the the roof and the interior panel.

The space between the headliner & the roof is miniscule. It looks like it's pretty deep at the edges, but it's only about 1/4 inch once it levels out. The factory puts a big piece of asphalt anti-vibration material up in there so the roof won't rattle against the headliner panel.

The only way to get sound deadening material (i.e. 'Dynomat') in there and preserve the stock all metal header look would be to cut out all the spot welds around the drip rail and remove the roof panel. Then if you did that, I'd put the sticky stuff on the header panel rather than the roof panel so as to deflect the heat better.

Of course this is a pretty big job, although not very complicated. A guy could make quick work of those spot welds with a $25.00 spotweld cutter kit and have the thing off in about 4 hours. Heck, while you were in there, it would afford you the oportunity to treat everything with POR15 so it'll NEVER rust! Then going back together is a sinch, you can use the little holes the spot weld cutter makes as a guide to get it all right back in place, then you just plug weld 'em all up with a wire feed.

The space between the headliner & the roof is miniscule. It looks like it's pretty deep at the edges, but it's only about 1/4 inch once it levels out. The factory puts a big piece of asphalt anti-vibration material up in there so the roof won't rattle against the headliner panel.

The only way to get sound deadening material (i.e. 'Dynomat') in there and preserve the stock all metal header look would be to cut out all the spot welds around the drip rail and remove the roof panel. Then if you did that, I'd put the sticky stuff on the header panel rather than the roof panel so as to deflect the heat better.

Of course this is a pretty big job, although not very complicated. A guy could make quick work of those spot welds with a $25.00 spotweld cutter kit and have the thing off in about 4 hours. Heck, while you were in there, it would afford you the oportunity to treat everything with POR15 so it'll NEVER rust! Then going back together is a sinch, you can use the little holes the spot weld cutter makes as a guide to get it all right back in place, then you just plug weld 'em all up with a wire feed.


That's exactly what I've been thinking about doing. Only thing with mine is that I already shaved the drip rail:rolleyes: My roof is a little wavy in the rear and I have a donor roof skin to replace it with.

That's exactly what I've been thinking about doing. Only thing with mine is that I already shaved the drip rail:rolleyes: My roof is a little wavy in the rear and I have a donor roof skin to replace it with.

You know Frizz, If you remove the roof panel, that big back window conversion would be a whole lot easier - you wouldn't have to fill in that seam like I did. If I ever do another one that's the way I'm going to do it. Filling in and feathering that seam was a lot of work. It looks bitchin' though!!!

thanks for info on roddoors . It's hard to find any interior parts for my series

Yeah, Roddoors has some godd stuff! Thanks!

Larry