and out jumped the motor

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/engineremoval04.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/engineremoval16.jpg

As some may remember, I bought this Blazer about 3 years ago and have been focusing on the 69 K20 so this one has sat waiting. I believe it hasn't been driven in about 9 years. I fired the motor up about 2 years ago and it gushed oil from the rear main seal. I was going to move the engine crossmember and replace the rear main seal with the engine installed but decided I would be time ahead to just pull the motor and have it looked at.

It is a 400 small block and for some reason someone put 62-64 327 heads on it with 60cc - I'm assuming those are probably choking the motor. I took the motor to an engine guy today and he is going to tear into it then give me a call to advise of the motors condition.

I have the same problem with my truck.:lol:

So now you are starting on this.Are you going to do a restoration like your k20 or just keep it like it is?Are you done with the k20?

Looking forward to seeing you tear into your Blazer Yukon. Keep us posted on your Buildup. Are there any Big plans for the Blazer or is it gonna be a trail rig?

Just want to get the Blazer road worthy and enjoy it. It will get a 4" lift done correctly (the PO used 73-up front springs) and just kind of clean it up. I don't plan on tearing this one down like I did the 69. That may happen in a few years.

And the 69 isn't really done yet, I still need to figure out a design for a front bumper and do a few other odds and ins on it.

My mind has been thinking of driving it without the top for too long and I just have to get it going!!!

Just want to get the Blazer road worthy and enjoy it.

My mind has been thinking of driving it without the top for too long and I just have to get it going!!!

Best reason's ever right there. :metal:

Excellent plan YJ, keep it simple this time around and you'll be enjoying the sunshine within the month. :c2:

Glad your working on the blazer, your kids a going to love it!

You got that right. On the way to take the engine to the engine guy, my two girls went with me. My youngest Alexandra again mentioned how she couldn't wait for it to be running and then "I would have two cool trucks." Man, that girl knows the right things to say!!!!!

Keep on it yukon and it will be done soon just remember that summer is commming soon..

Just want to get the Blazer road worthy and enjoy it.


A-MEN, I can't wait to get my 2wd road worthy ;)

IF ONLY IT WAS THAT EASY TO HAVE THE MOTOR JUST JUMP OUT AT ME, WOULD SAVE ME ALMOST A WHOLE DAYS WORK, I am slow at mechanical things....

I got it out in 3 1/2 hours, which I didn't think was too bad considering this is the third motor I have ever pulled. I was expecting it to take much longer. Gotta love these old trucks!

I beat you there, I spent 1 hour pulling the front clip off of mine, then it only took an hour to snatch the engine (it's SO EASY with nothing in the way). So figure 2 hours total!:metal: Bet yours looks a lot better than mine going back in.;)

I beat you there, I spent 1 hour pulling the front clip off of mine, then it only took an hour to snatch the engine (it's SO EASY with nothing in the way). So figure 2 hours total!:metal: Bet yours looks a lot better than mine going back in.;)

My problem is I always find things really easy to take apart... getting them back together has always been my problem :lol:

That is my problem too, I am making sure to do as little as possible to get this back on the road, this project has set too long for me to want to tear into it any more than necessary.

Just got off the phone with the engine guy - he said a rod was crumbled up a bit and did a little cylinder wall damage but should clean right up. He said it didn't look like the motor had been bored out before so that is great news. Most interesting, he said the oil gushing was due to the oil filter gasket getting pinched and folding up a little. That is interesting cause someone mentioned that in the past and when it gushed the first time, a few days later I pulled the oil filter to see if maybe an old gasket had stuck to the block, put the filter back on and it did the same thing.

Gave him the okay to get the motor in the machine shop for a 0.020 over bore to see if it cleans up of if they need to bore it out more. He should have it back from the machine shop in about 1 1/2 weeks and then he will be right on top of getting it put back together. Can't beat that!!!!! Vroooooom time before too long I hope!
__________________

Great news for sure, glad to hear your good fortune. :)

Mr. Vroom, it is.

Got out for a short amount of time last night. Messed with the transfer case a bit. I need to put in about a 1/2" spacer to drop it down. The crossmember I am using was for a Dana 20 and with the NP205 transfer case installed, it is rubbing on the bottom of the floor.

Next I started installing the front springs. I got these from Skyjacker's (edit - it was Superlift, not Skyjacker) scratch and dent store on e-bay for like $29.00 for the pair. They had no damage at all and although not the springs I would normally buy, for the price I couldn't pass them up. Had to pull out the metal bushing for the front of the spring eyelet and cut it down a little bit. After that, got the driver side to slide right in. Hopefully get out tonight and get the passenger side installed.

I think I will snatch a spare 350 I have lying around and drop it in the engine bay, then I can pull the old 12 bolt axle and put in the 14 bolt. With the engine in, I can then measure the rear driveshaft and also figure out the right angle for the new spring perches. Need to then get them welded on. I can also throw in the front driveshaft and make sure it is the right length.

Pics, sure I have pics. The first one shows how ridiciously low I had to drop the front of the truck to get the engine out.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/engineremoval03.jpg

Next, here is the driverside 4" lift spring installed. I'm using Offroad Design's heavy duty rear shackles and greaseable bolts all around.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/springs04.jpg

Ain't she just beautiful! :cool:

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/springs05.jpg

How much lift will the shackles give? I know that's not what they're for but i'm still wondering. I feel my blazer is ALMOST perfect, but it wouldnt hurt to have the inch and inch higher or so. Would those shackles do the trick? I've looked at them and thought it over before. Looking good, thanks.

They are just a 1/2" longer so only give you 1/4" of lift, they are just good in my opinion for added beef - plus I like the greaseable bolts.

do you have a link for that scratch and dent store you refered to?

:agree: Love cheap stuff:cool:

Here's their link (http://stores.ebay.com/Superlift-Suspension-Systems_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZkm)

thanks yj

dang 60CC 327 heads on a 400 that would make some compression for sure, what heads are you going to run? I have some 441 heads 76cc that would make a hell of a torque monster out of a 400 if your interested PM me.

The engine builder has some 882's that he is checking out to make sure they are good - he said they should work well on it.

That is what I have on my truck 882's with 2.02" X 1.60" valves and it runs good and mine is just a 355. 882's actually flow pretty good for a factory cast head your 400 should run real good. Have you picked a cam yet?

Good luck

The engine guy called this weekend and said the motor is back from the machine shop. It cleaned up with the .020 bore job. The 882 heads also inspected out fine. I told the engine guy what I was looking for power wise - low end torque and he is going to pick the cam. He did a buddy's motor recently and did a great job so I have faith in him. I'll post up the specifics when I get them.

He has to order parts and then he will be putting it back together. It is moving along at a good pace, faster than I expected and can't beat the fact that he calls me to give me updates. Gotta love that.

Nice One YJ :metal:
So by this time next year you should be on the road with your Blazer too ;)
hehehee
Burt

I sure hope it doesn't take me that long, but given the length of time it took to get the K20 on the road, well, anything is possible. :whine:

Not for more than 2 years has this baby sat on a front axle! Got the engine mounted to the tranny last night and wrestled the front axle in to position. What do you know, the front driveshaft looks like it is gonna fit. Need to pull the front axle out so I can open up the center pin holes on the spring perches a tad, then put it back into place and get ready to set the rear 14 bolt axle into place to get the rear perches positioned right then welded.

Getting closer! :metal:

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/frontaxle007.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/frontaxle009.jpg

I set the 14 bolt axle in place last night. The front Dana 44 is sitting on 4" lift springs. The rear springs are stock and right now there is a 4" block in place that was used with the Blazer's original axle. I made the spring perches about 1" taller than the stock ones but as it sits now the rear is too high compared to the front. The below pic doesn't show the stance very well - I will have to move the 69 so I can get a full side shot.

From the ground to the bottom of the rear wheel well lip is 43 3/4".

From the ground to the bottom of the front wheel well lip is 41 1/2".

Sure looks like a 2" lift block instead of the 4" lift block would get it sitting right.

Also, when the hard top comes off, do I remember that the rear will raise roughly 1" due to the loss of weight?

If anyone has a second and wants to post similar measurements to help get my stance leveled out, that would be cool.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/stance03.jpg

Looks like it's coming along well, 2" blocks would be better anyhow I have spit lift blocks out of my truck before off roading.

Okay, got the K5 I think pretty level last night by insert a 2" spacer (just temporary) in place of the 4" block. Here's how it is sitting now. It looks a little low in the rear in the picture but when I'm standing there looking at it - it looks fine.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/stance2inchblock.jpg

I think with the top off it will still have a good stance. The spring perches I made are long enough that I can move the spring pack center pin hole back about an 1" to 1 1/2" to get the rear axle located better in the wheel opening.

Now I have to look into a what to do for a 2" lift block. Not so sure the 4" blocks that I have could be cut down very easily - but that is something to consider. For now I don't think I will go with new rear springs.

Had a heck of a time centering the rear 14 bolt axle. I was measuring from the back surface of the drum brakes to the edge of the spring pack and while everything looked centered, the measurement was off by 1". Scratched my head for a while and finally saw that the driver side hub/brake unit is 1" wider than the passenger side. Changed to measuring from the edge of the rim to the spring pack and now the axle is pretty much centered. (still need to move it maybe 1/8" of an inch or so one direction.)

Not sure why the driver side hub/brake unit is wider, must just be the way the 14 bolt's are made.

Hopefully I will get out tonight and get the axle moved back a little then get ready to set the pinion angle. Then I need to take it to a friend to weld the perches in place.

Before I know it I'm gonna be ready for the engine to come back from being rebuilt :metal:

Guess whose motor is being delivered tomorrow at 1:00 p.m.

:metal: :metal:

Too bad I don't have any free time this weekend to get it installed!

Guess whose motor is being delivered tomorrow at 1:00 p.m.

:metal: :metal:

Too bad I don't have any free time this weekend to get it installed!

Nice... Remember Memorial Day is coming up!

Sounds like Christmas in May.:D

good job on all the progress. is this one going to get painted too?

Did that push bar come off of a '69 Charger? Just kidding!! :lol:

Stance looks good to me

Got the engine on Saturday now gotta find some of that elusive free time.

Here are some of the specs:

Degress .05" dur 204 Int. 214 Exh., Degrees ADV. dur 278 Int. 288 Exh., Inches Valve Lift Int. .420, Exh. .443, Degrees Lobe Center Int. 107, Exh. 117

Should be a good low end torque cam with the power range of 1000-4500.

The block was bored .020 over and the crank was cleaned up. It now has hypereutectic pistons and with the 882 heads with 76 cc the engine should have a compression ratio of about 9.5:1. These heads came off of a 400 so they have the correct steam holes.

The intake is an Eldebrock Performer and the carb is a Jet Stage II 750 cfm quadrajet.

The fuel pump is a Holley and the engine guy said to watch it cause it is 7 psi and he wondered if that might be a little too much for the carb.

The next two weeks are going to be a bit busy for me but hopefully I can find some free time in the evenings to get more done to the Blazer.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/400sb04.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/400sb05.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/400sb08.jpg

Nice...while it's out why not plumb in a fuel regulater.
If the pump turns out to be a little much for the carb you can always turn the pressure down.

Nice that should be a torque monster.

About time for a little updated I would say. Free time has been next to impossible to find for the last few months but got out to the shop the last two nights and got the pinion angle dialed in on the 14 bolt I'm swapping in. Monday night I got it close and got the measurement for the rear driveshaft. Took it in Tuesday for new u-joints, including change to a conversion u-joint for the 14 bolt I'm putting in, lengthening, and balancing of the finished driveshaft.

Went out last night and dropped the rear pinion down a touch, took more measurements and got the angles finalized. Now I need to mark where the shock tabs need to be and then pull the 14 bolt back out and run it over to a buddy's to have the tabs and spring perches welded on. When I get the axle back I will then install the Detroit locker and then I can reinstall and get the brake lines modified and connected.

A little progress, but I will take all I can get!

Oh, after I got that done last night I cracked open three cardboard boxes containing a new three piece rolling tool chest - I've been wanting one of those forever and Sears had a sale on their QuietGlide series chests that I just couldn't pass up. Got the intermediate draw chest for free. It should fit my needs very well.

Got out again last night, that makes 3 nights in a row - that doesn't happen very often these days!

Got the rear axle pulled back out and now it is ready to go to my buddy's for spring perch welding - maybe get that done this weekend. Had to take the driveshaft back to get a different u-joint for up front. It needed a conversion u-joint like used on the rear that makes me guess that the NP205 that I'm using must have come from a 1 ton for it to need a 1350 u-joint. At least I didn't think that they usually used that large of a u-joint. Not sure.

Also had some clearance issues with the grease zert on the axle side of the driveshaft. The changed the position so now I will need to see if it will work correctly and still be able to get the grease gun on it.

Sure is nice to be making some progress! :metal:

Here's the driveshaft

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/reardriveshaft.jpg

And here is the 14 bolt with the spring perches dialed in

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/rearaxlewspringperch2.jpg

And, of course I have to show off my new tool chest :c2:

http://yukon.b0xen.us/misc/craftsmantoolchest.jpg

Nice work, how are you relocating the perch locator? I have seen several of these and the tires seem to be too far back for the front and too far forward on the rear, have heard some say zero rate will fix it, my question is how? I have a 72 with 1/2 ton under it and I am sitting on the fence about 2wd'ing it or the 3/4 ton drivetrain I have, one ofr the other. Any help or advice would be great, cause if I lift and 3/4 ton it I want it to look correct.

I put offset holes in my spring perches and also drilled new relocated holes in the 2" lift blocks - combined this got the rear axle located very well in the wheel well. The tires definitely looked totally wrong before making that change.

The zero rate gives you 1" of lift and has holes I believe in three different locations to allow you to position the axle a little forward or back.

Here is how the Blazer looked before relocating the holes - this is with the 14 bolt in place with the 2" lift block and the spring perches that I made that are a bit taller than stock.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/stance2inchblock.jpg

It doesn't look like I have a picture showing how it looks now - will have to snap one when I get the axle back under the K5.

Got out for the 4th night in a row - on a roll for sure. Found all these spiders in my shop last night

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/spidergears.jpg

Having a little trouble identifying their species but the good thing is they are now out making way for the Detroit locker for the 14 bolt going into my 70 K5.

Everything I read said the swap was pretty easy and that is definitely true - the hardest part so far has been getting the ring gear bolts torqued to 120 ft/lbs - having a hard time using my vise to secure the carrier to allow me to torque the bolts enough.

I asked this question in the 4x4 section but will throw it out here also:

Does anyone know if I need to use any sealant on the 8 bolts that the hold the axle shafts to the hub? When I pulled those bolts they seemed to have something on them and there was a little blue RTV visible on the back side of the axle flange when I pulled the axles away from the hubs.

The materials I read about installing the locker didn't mention using any sealant in that area.

Assemble the axle, put it in the truck and set the parking brake. Then you can torque those ring gear bolts.

This weekend got some free time during the day on Saturday (might I add, that never happens!) and my wife said, why don't you go work on the Blazer :c2: so off I went.

About a week ago I got the Detroit Locker installation finished, got the rear cover installed and fluid back in the differential.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/14boltgears.jpg

A few days ago I got the new rear brake lines bent up so on Saturday I got the new rear rubber brake line installed and then jacked the rear of the Blazer way in the air and rolled the 14 bolt in place. Got the u-bolts in place and now the Blazer is finally attached to the new 14 bolt. Stance is pretty good and the rear axle is located fairly centered in the wheel wells now.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/14boltmounted.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/k5frontview.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/k5rearview.jpg

Now on to reworking the front brake lines a bit, pulling the spare sbc that is sitting in the engine bay and I can finally reinstall the rebuilt 400 sbc! Geez, at this rate, I will be done by . . . well, I'll be done when I get done. I've learned not to set any expected completion dates.

It keeps looking better and better and your progress is still doing better than mine.I am bringing home another K10 just for the drivetrain because it was just rebuilt and it will save me some time on getting the swb K10 on the road.BTW,hows your arm?

Any progress is good progress in my book. The bursa sack on my arm is still filled with some liquid and the bruising is all still there but starting to lighten. Went to the doc about 1 1/2 weeks ago and he said the bruising is from blood that had collected around the bursa and then worked its way down the arm.

eww you said busted sack :lol: :hm: hehheee J/K

Keep up the good work!
Did you find a BBC for that bad boy yet? :c2:

At this rate, you'll be driving it soon.

J/K, go slow, do it right and enjoy the journey. :)

Got the rear brake lines finished yesterday late afternoon. Now it is on to the front brake lines. I'm gonna be pulling the spare engine out shortly and dropping in the rebuilt 400 - definitely getting closer! And the nice thing is, from here on out, won't have much more money that needs to be spent, just time getting things done.

Not to add anymore to your project, but are you doing anything to prevent axle wrap in the back??? I read the specs on your 400 and it sounds like its really going to have some low-end grunt. Bad A$$ 400 + lift blocks= axle wrap for sure, if you really get on it. Everything looks awesome though!:metal:

For the time being I'm not planning on any mods that would prevent axle wrap. Have to get it running and see how it does.

Thanks for the compliments.

Got the spare motor pulled last night and the front brakes are now about 1/2 done. Need to make a run to the parts store for some 3/16" line to do more work on the front brakes.

Thinking I probably better get this think outside and powerwash/clean the engine bay before putting the rebuilt motor in - this engine bay is nasty!

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/k5withoutmotor.jpg

Lookin' Good Mark! I'm still shopping around for a donor truck for my 8 lug axles, so you're ahead of me! How's the arm?

can never have too many "good" projects

Ah the arm, bruising is just about gone but there is still fluid behind the elbow. If I reach down in the right way, I have some pain so don't know if something tore or if it is just some deep bruising causing the pain. Overall, doing great though.

I'm skipping out of work early today and hope to put the front axle back in place and push the K5 outside for some engine bay cleaning. It is like 60 degrees outside and gotta take advantage of that warm of a December day!

Played hookie from work a couple days ago in the late afternoon and got the power washer out. A little Castrol Super Clean and some scrubbing got the bay pretty clean. Then hit a few areas with the sander.

Saturday was the last day that was supposed to be over 50 degrees for a while so I made time to get to the barn and got everything masked off and hit the metal with some black paint. I must say, it looks a lot better but looks better in the pictures. Up close you can see a number of areas that could have used more sanding. I just wanted to get the loose paint off and get it one color and protected, so works for me.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/enginebaypainted2.jpg

Also pulled the gas tank skid plate from the back of the barn where it has been sitting. I cleaned it up for paint about 2 years ago and, well, just never got it painted. Used the 3M undercoating/rubberized stuff and the finished product looks great. To bad I moved it before it was dry, ended up putting the smudge you see in the side shot. May sand it a bit and touch it up, maybe not :rolleyes:

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/gastankskidplate1.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/gastankskidplate2.jpg

Hmm, looks like next is getting the flywheel and clutch installed and it's time to put the rebuilt motor back in! :metal:

Wow, that new paint really makes a difference! Watch out for the throwout bearing. I put mine in backwards and had to pull the tranny and xfer case to get it right! ha! Looking good, can't wait to see it on the road! Jeff.

That's funny about the throwout bearing - I was thinking that very thing last night - have to make sure I install it right. Speaking of which, I don't recall right of hand which is the correct way.

This is how not to put it in... Big side goes towards the clutch plate...

Today was a great day! A friend came over today around 1:30 pm and we set out to install the 400 sbc.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/preinstall.jpg

We first yanked the front axle that was only sitting in place. That allowed us to drop the front end down. Then got to fight the motor into place. Took a bit of urging to finally get the motor lined up and the input splines to mate with the clutch - but we got it done!

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/installed1.jpg

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/installed2.jpg

Hopefully will get some free evenings this week so I can get the motor install complete and fire it up.


After my friend left I got the front axle reinstalled and then went and unloaded a load of wood from my 69 K20.

Now I need to make a list of what I need to do to get it done - can see the light at the end of the tunnel for sure!

Great update, that's a big step in the right direction.

I've always liked your builds, their all straight forward and well thought out.

Looks great Mark! You're making some good progress. I still haven't found a donor truck that I wanted to spend the $ on, but soon I hope! I've got a new jeep project I'm tinkering with so the JImmy cage will be next I hope!

Got the power steering pump and alternator installed Sunday along with a few odds and ends. Next up, install the manifolds and I think it is about time to turn the key :metal:

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/altandpowersteeringinstalled2.jpg

Look forward to seeing your cage Mike!

I'm gonna keep this post going as I finish my K5 project as it gives a good overview of what the project has entailed. A short recap, got the motor fired up a few weeks ago mp3 file (http://yukon.b0xen.us/audio/blazerstartup.mp3) and took my first short test drive last Sunday.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/engine63.jpg



I have a short in my wiring and as my engine bay harnesses are in pretty poor shape, I thought I would replace them and see if the short goes away. Got the harnesses two days ago and got them installed. In the process I broke the post off the starter that the purple wire goes too

Sure is nice to get the new wiring harness installed. The prior owners had done some creative wiring and some wires were just loose and I couldn't figure out for the life of me what some were supposed to be for. Now everything is wired up correctly but unfortunately I still have the short. If you pull the headlight switch the tail/stop fuse blows immediately. Headlights and turns signals still work but I loose the parking lights and I think the dash lights. Will work on that problem soon.

Got out again last night and got my throttle linkage straightened out - it was not getting full movement due to interference but it is working properly now. Also got the transfer case shifter installed and the transmission hump back in place after a little metal trimming. The original case was the Dana 20 and the shifter for the NP205 must be positioned a little different. Was out there until 11:30 last night, a bit tired today, but I'm so eager to get this project on the road that it is worth it.

Started to install the starter I picked up yesterday but turned out to be the wrong one - picked up the correct one today.

Should be able to put the driver's seat back in tonight if I get out to the shop and get the carpet back in place - will be nice to have that done.

After that I need to install the power steering belt and see if the pump works. Then I need to adjust the clutch rod a bit. Right now I have to push the pedal way down before the clutch disengages - I assume I just need to shorten the rod a bit.

Also need to install the front driveshaft and start searching for the short. Also need to install the new heater core - figure I will do that while the hood is off. Gonna throw a new heater blower motor in while I have the heater box off.

Almost roadworthy! :metal:

I was so unmotivated to put a lot of hours into mine but once I fired up that new motor for the first time I was pumped and now I spend too much time working on it.

Got the starter installed last night and tried to start the truck but it wouldn't fire. Finallly unhooked the hot lead in the new HEI wiring harness and attached my old hot lead to the HEI and fired right up. :confused:

Next i went to work on the interior. Got my rear seat brackets in place to raise the rear of the seat up about 1", then laid the carpet back down and installed the driver's seat. Prior owner had the driver's seat installed with wood blocks to raise the rear of the seat and a total of four bolts for the whole seat. Needless to say, it was wrongly installed then and properly installed now.

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/interiorseatmounted.jpg

Next up, finish power steering and hopefully go for another test drive!

Gettin" there one piece atta time, don't you ever wish you had everything to put your vehicle together on shelves in your shop.

Doing great, keep plugging away.

[QUOTE=RustyParts;2100532]Gettin' there one piece atta time, don't you ever wish you had everything to put your vehicle together on shelves in your shop.[QUOTE]

Don't you know it! I have the shelves, but unfortunately they are full of old stuff that I'm keeping for who know's what reason!

http://yukon.b0xen.us/70blazer/sideshot.jpg

sweet push bar