I'm using the stock manifolds from the car listed.

Here's a shortcut way to add a manual temp gauge :

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5199088&postcount=54

Lots of pictures.

Nice work so far 68 shortstep! Keep the pictures coming.

maken a little progress.... got a electric dual fan im maken mounting brackets for, and modding to fit my rad... also plumbed up the rad to the overflow can.. and plumbing up trans to cooler...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1808.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1809.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1810.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1811.jpg

also got my wheels in they are foose nitrous 20s on rear and 18s on front
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1806.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1805.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1804.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1803.jpg

:cool: wow, I need my sunglasses for those...very nice:cool:

Man, those things are huge looking!

Funny you got the fuel lines out. I was sposta work on them today, then a friend called and was stuck in between floors in his house (fell through the cieling while working on the subfloor upstairs). That ate up a lot of the day, then I came home and shot myself in the eye with Brake Cleaner. That put me out of commission for another hour, and by then it was dinnertime :whine:

Looks like you got your lines going well. I'd post the PDF of how to make em, but looks like you got the hang of it already :D

maken a little progress.... got a electric dual fan im maken mounting brackets for, and mdding to fit my rad... also plumbed up the rad to the overflow can.. and plumbing up trans to cooler...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/100_1808.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/100_1809.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/100_1810.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/100_1811.jpg

just looking at the overflow tank for your rad, i have a 400ci smallblock and the rad just has a overflow pipe draining on to the fllor if it overflows, is that not right then:confused:

:phat: NICE :metal:

just looking at the overflow tank for your rad, i have a 400ci smallblock and the rad just has a overflow pipe draining on to the fllor if it overflows, is that not right then:confused:



This is the stock setup. Normally, the overflow tube will come out of the radiator, clip onto the side of the battery box and just pour to the floor.

In theory, when your radiator heats up, pressure develops against the spring loaded rubber cork inside the cap, and when it hits a certain PSI (should say on the cap), the rubber cork is pushed up, allowing water to flow into the radiator.

I read recently that the radiator should be able to push/pull water from your resevoir when needed. Still not sure how that works with pulling the water back out of it though.

So, I guess, ultimately the answer is "yes, no overflow tank is normal", but a lot of the guys add them on here.

It's looking good. Coming around.

This is the stock setup. Normally, the overflow tube will come out of the radiator, clip onto the side of the battery box and just pour to the floor.

In theory, when your radiator heats up, pressure develops against the spring loaded rubber cork inside the cap, and when it hits a certain PSI (should say on the cap), the rubber cork is pushed up, allowing water to flow into the radiator.

I read recently that the radiator should be able to push/pull water from your resevoir when needed. Still not sure how that works with pulling the water back out of it though.

So, I guess, ultimately the answer is "yes, no overflow tank is normal", but a lot of the guys add them on here.


When water heats up it expands, when it cools it contracts. This contraction creates a vacuum on the resevoir and pulls some water back into the radiator. At least that's how I think it supposed to work.:lol:

where can i get one of those overflow tank/tubes????

When water heats up it expands, when it cools it contracts. This contraction creates a vacuum on the resevoir and pulls some water back into the radiator. At least that's how I think it supposed to work.:lol:

I understand how the head + pressure trips the cap/plunger to flow water out of the radiator, I just don't understand how the vacuum after cooling trips the cap/plunger to suck water back in.

Quick question... the trailing arms and springs you have in the back.... are they stock? maybe dumb question but i have the same set-up on mine and wasn't sure if they are stock or not. i'm just getting to know my truck after 3 years of driving it.

I understand how the head + pressure trips the cap/plunger to flow water out of the radiator, I just don't understand how the vacuum after cooling trips the cap/plunger to suck water back in.

it doesnt at least not when the pressurecap is still in place ....... normally the expansiontank is connected into the coolingsystem without any valves or watever in between .
the tank needs to be only halffull the air in the expensiontank gets compressed when the exess water enters it and pushes the water back intoo the system when it cools back down again .
the expensiontank itself has a blowoffvalve in the cap too but that only works in extreme cases to prevent the tank from blowing up

the only reason to put a tank at the exit end of a blowoff cap is to preserve nature by catching the exess fluid instead of dumping it on the road

where can i get one of those overflow tank/tubes????

summit sells them, manufacturer is billet specialitys

Quick question... the trailing arms and springs you have in the back.... are they stock? maybe dumb question but i have the same set-up on mine and wasn't sure if they are stock or not. i'm just getting to know my truck after 3 years of driving it.

yes the trailing arms are stock, springs came in the ECE 6" lowering kit

It's coming along nice good job.

WOW great build up gonna be one killer stepside when done

How are you wiring up the motor, and comp? I have a 6.0 and want it in my 68 short stepper. Love the biuld-up, been watching this and shifty's as well. When you guys finish I should be able to just whip through mine with all of the experience I have gained here!!

Nope, you'll run into your own unique problems. There are a lot of little things that both of us have left out (me, on purpose, or out of laziness) that you'll need to figure out. that's why I pity the person who ever tries to consolidate this info and sell it on eBay as a swap howto (hello, negative feedback! :D)

What do you mean by "how are you wiring up motor and comp"?? That can be taken many ways - you mean, how are the wires ran, where are you mounting the comp, where did you get the harness, ????

How are you wiring up the motor, and comp? I have a 6.0 and want it in my 68 short stepper. Love the biuld-up, been watching this and shifty's as well. When you guys finish I should be able to just whip through mine with all of the experience I have gained here!!

the wiring is a harness im doing myself, and the computer will be mounted under the dash (if thats what you're asking)...... you'll have your share of obstacles too.... the easiest part of the swap is the actual mounting the engine trans in the truck.... here is a goood tool to aid in all questions to come www.ls1tech.com the conversion and hybred section....
BTW i met boyd in rockwall TX at a car auction i was attending, i thought he was a jerk, but i can say i met him...:metal:

BTW i met boyd in rockwall TX at a car auction i was attending, i thought he was a jerk, but i can say i met him...:metal:

from wat i see in the american hot rod series i can only agree with you , there is a chance that he's different in real life but i have my doubts .
i wouldn't like to work in his shop no matter what they would pay me

Great build so far!! I noticed the A&P manual, are you working general or commercial av? I was an AP in my former life, prior to 9/11.

Keep up the gr8 work

Great build so far!! I noticed the A&P manual, are you working general or commercial av? I was an AP in my former life, prior to 9/11.

Keep up the gr8 work

i work on milatary aircraft.....thanks for the complaments

the wiring is a harness im doing myself, and the computer will be mounted under the dash (if thats what you're asking)...... you'll have your share of obstacles too.... the easiest part of the swap is the actual mounting the engine trans in the truck.... here is a goood tool to aid in all questions to come www.ls1tech.com the conversion and hybred section....
BTW i met boyd in rockwall TX at a car auction i was attending, i thought he was a jerk, but i can say i met him...:metal:

Here A pics of my Comp mounted under the seat. Are you running a external fuel pump? I dont know what to get for my LT1 swap.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/5241/dsc03358kl3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

no im useing a internal fuel pump

Hi 68 short step
Can you tell us all the details on the headers? How well do they fit? Any mods to make them work? Can you tell the details of brand and what they were for? Part number would be great. Do you have any pics showing the clearance of the primary tubes to the frame rails? Trucks looking good. Keep the pics coming.

Hi 68 short step
Can you tell us all the details on the headers? How well do they fit? Any mods to make them work? Can you tell the details of brand and what they were for? Part number would be great. Do you have any pics showing the clearance of the primary tubes to the frame rails? Trucks looking good. Keep the pics coming.

sure, look here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=198962
and here is a little more detail
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=197347

mmmmmmmmmm, those series of pics was like watching classical music

Looks like everything is coming together really nicely! Keep up the good work!

Hi 68 short step
Can you tell the details of brand and what they were for? Part number would be great. .
pacesetters
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=184&catid=45
they look to be onsale too.

I was wondering if you used a bought harness (painless, etc) or if you had yours modified? Did or do you need to reflash or reprogram the computer? I got a quote of almost a $G to rewire and reprog my comp on my 6.0 is why I am asking. I am not an idea stealer/reseller, I am genuinely intersted in how to put this $4k motor into my truck without spending another $4k!! I know the benefits of the fuel injection (or else I'd have never bought this thing) but!! d@mn it is expensive and way more a PIA than a carb will ever be.

I was wondering if you used a bought harness (painless, etc) or if you had yours modified? Did or do you need to reflash or reprogram the computer? I got a quote of almost a $G to rewire and reprog my comp on my 6.0 is why I am asking. I am not an idea stealer/reseller, I am genuinely intersted in how to put this $4k motor into my truck without spending another $4k!! I know the benefits of the fuel injection (or else I'd have never bought this thing) but!! d@mn it is expensive and way more a PIA than a carb will ever be.

the harness is a heavily moddified stock one....the computer will need to be programmed (for instance on my application: i need VATS, EGR, EVAP, REMOVED and for driveability/ personnal preffrence im getting torque management removed and diffrent tune for a bigger cam i installed)
i also am doing the wiring myself, but getting the puter done by a professional (dyno tune)...
as far as spending a G, try jesse at wait4me.... he'll do the wireing (you supply stock harness) and reprogram the puter to your needs for about 400$ (talk to shifty on this subject, he has first hand experence )

Budget: Wait4MePerformance: Full harness hack (you supply) and reflash for around $300 and you'll need to do add'l wiring on the harness for relays, etc. Do not expect any customer service, though.

Mid-level: Speartech: Killer harness with all fuses and relay provisions in place for around $700. Get reprogrammed from Wait4Me, about $100-150 (I forget).

Expensive: A) Painless wiring harness + Wait4Me reprogram or B) S&P (www.hotrodlane.cc) harness and pre-made/flashed PCM. Option B is the easier/better route, either one will cost you $1500 or more.

These are your options. I personally wanted to go Speartech, but beggars can't be choosers, I AM on a budget. Big plus to Speartech is it is literally plug n play - they may also have PCM's you can buy (I believe they do). They also test every harness on an engine before delivering to you to INSURE that it works.

I will probably buy a Speartech harness when the funds are available, or if my engine won't start and I think it's the wiring.

I emailed speedscenewiring and here is what they said (found the link here somewhere I think):

Hi Mike I can reconfigure the factory harness and program the computer for 935.50. This will include all circuits operating at 100% , along with a warranty and blueprinting of the computer to the harness.

Zac / Speed Scene Wiring
Online Catalog

Not sure about how where to go, painless has a complete plug and play, that needs nothing else (has a ecm like thing that runs it all, but it is like $1200-1500) I'll look into speartech as well.

Painless SAYS they have a complete plug and play, but ask anyone who has used their harness in an LS1 swap into our trucks and they're gonna tell you it was a nightmare. I've heard it several times already.

If Speed Scene is offering to include all of the relays and other crap for fuel pump, cooling fans, and all inline fuses and whatnot, maybe it's worth it. Speartech already does this.

If you're going to spend half as much as your drivetrain on it, go Speartech. Everyone I've talked to at LS1tech swears by them.

I personally used (as did a couple others here) Wait4Me. They "got the job done" and I am satisfied, but, I mean, it's not totally plug and play (some wiring is required), the way you supply ignition and power to the PCM and starter is a little sloppy, their customer service is non-existant (they don't have to pay people, so no overhead which means great prices for you). I know that Jesse is very familiar with reprogramming also, but there was no support, little communication about "what possible options there are" and it was more about getting it done and getting it back than anything.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt - some of this information is relayed, based on some very strong commentary on various sources. I know, if I was gonna do it again, I would personally go Speartech. I couldn't have done it this time (budget reasons), it was hard to justify spending the same $$$ amount as a reasonable airbag setup just to get a stupid wiring harness.

If you look at my gallery (linked to the year/make of my truck in my sig) you will see that the Wait4Me harness is very clean looking and...good enough for gov't work.

I just clicked on speartech's site and they make a factory harness plug and play for 450, maybe that what I'll do. I think that is what speedscene was offering at the same price, just not sure if they will end up the same, if speartech is the "best" then I'll look into them, I just want to be able to use the d@mn motor! It is still sitting on the crate it was delivered on a couple of months ago!! I'll let you know when/if I decide!!

Sorry, I must have been confused, I thought the $450 one is something you ship to them and they convert for you. You can buy a brand new one from them for ~$700

Like I said, I would go Speartech for a mid-range-budget solution. The quality of their part is superior to anything I've ever seen.

PS - try having everything but the clutch, radiator hoses and fuel lines done, and having your truck be that way for a couple months, then come back and talk to me about using your damn motor :D

(i.e. I feel your pain, but you can get a lot done now W/O the harness!!)

I just clicked on speartech's site and they make a factory harness plug and play for 450, maybe that what I'll do.


Sorry, I must have been confused, I thought the $450 one is something you ship to them and they convert for you. You can buy a brand new one from them for ~$700

Yeah, that's what I meant they make (your original oem) harness into a plug and play for $450 my harness is brand new like the motor, so for a savings of a couple hundred bucks I'll send mine in and have it done, then they rework the comp for less than the new harness alone ($450 for rework of my harness and a reprogram of comp for like $250) I am interested in a true plug and play, once I start I want it running within a few weeks. I am sising out and using he 4l80e, although a TKO 500 would be fun!! Maybe I'll use the TKO 500 in my Camaro with the LT1, but that's a whole other money pit!!

Please keep us posted - maybe start a buildup thread? TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES!

You should have a very easy time with the setup you're using. If you need a factory auto tranny xmember, let me know. I have one all done up and ready to go that I'm not gonna use.

Yeah, I have a standard in it now so I'll need one. I just got another truck (I told the wife I'd sell some of my stuff off) I sold the 74 3/4 ton 4X4 Burb and traded my 68 Burb that was rolled, but I traded it for a running short stepper!! Then I bugged the neighbor about a long fleet 4X4 3/4ton GMC so he gave it to me!! Now, I am back where I started!! I have to short steps and a short fleet 4X4, so I am trying to decide which one to build (thinking one of the 2wd short steps but with the fleetside off the 4X4. I'll post some picts of the new addidtions to the heard as well as the 6.0/4l80e install. Waiting for more picts of the one on this thread!! I am closely watching cause this is a truck motor so mine will go just like this (fuel lines and all!!)

ok i got the trans cooler all plumbed up.... finished the electric fan brackets (one on the pass side was fun... i had to make an extension to hold the intake tube assembly) also got the intake tube assembly on... i installed the mufflers with the turn downs right before the rear axle..... buttoned up the rear end with a richmond no-slip powertrax posi unit.....( despite the debate here on there performance, i think its a good product, hope im right..)
new brake lines on the rear connecting the calipers... put a new hidden hitch on (hides behind the rear bumper, flip the tag down to reveal the receiver)... and lastly modded and installed the drop out bat. box on the frame... ( bat box is in the "dropped" position so it reallly wont hang that low while driveing.... and will be totally hidden behide the rear fender when the beds installed.....
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1991.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1993.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1992.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1996.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1995.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_1994.jpg

fan brackets still need to be painted... also just noticed how dirty this thing is, and plan on washing it soon..

Yeah wash it up. You'll be wanting to put that cab back on there before long. ;)

:c2:
Looks like you gotta a lot of work ahead of you, But will be worth it in the end.
Good Luck and hope the other half keeps lending you a helping hand....:cool:

Yeah wash it up. You'll be wanting to put that cab back on there before long. ;)

yea the cab is getting done..... it'll be a smoothed firewall (except the PB booster and master) keepin the wing windows and drip rails (keeps the "older" look i like)

if you still have the rear rims in this pic would you like to sell them????

ok im gonna make this my thread with the build up from here on out...
little progress this weekend...
painted new front suspension, installed brakes, and installed engine/trans.
i had lots of help from both my wife and daughter too:)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/100_1004.jpg


What type of paint did you use on the front suspension? I have been told you need a high temp paint with ceramic because of the heat that builds up in the calipers during braking. Any truth to that and if so what is the best paint to use.

looks like you know what you are doing that thing is looking good ill be watching for more

looks like a good job your doing there...everything looks good.

if you still have the rear rims in this pic would you like to sell them????

i sold those already...

What type of paint did you use on the front suspension? I have been told you need a high temp paint with ceramic because of the heat that builds up in the calipers during braking. Any truth to that and if so what is the best paint to use.

sounds logical.... what i do (and has lasted for over 5 yrs on my firebird) is blast the caliper ( dont touch with bare hand after that), give it a good rince down with acetone, and paint with automotive paint ( this is nason, custom blend color.....kinda a grey gunmetal metallic color) paint it with a few GOOD coats, then wait a few days, clean with a cloth, clear, clear, and clear it... wait a few days then install...

got more progress today.... i plumbed up the steam tube.... how i did it in a "hidden" fashion is drilled a hole in the water pump, tapped it, and put a elbow with a -4 AN fitting to the outlet of the steam tube (under the throttle body) heres a picture guide of what i did......
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2021.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2022.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2024.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2025.jpg

Steam tube looks good. Very similar to what I did on mine. Glad to see someone is getting work done. I finally got my stupid ass fuel pump mounting plate drilled out this weekend after breaking off the bung. Now I gotta find two replacement NPT+barb to AN fittings to replace it.

Two questions for you about your work, which others might find of use later:

That's a nice polished elbow - notice it has a tab on it - is that a kit from somewhere?

Where the heck is your MAF? Or are you tuning out the MAF (which is totally possible to do)?

Looking great gunna be a nice truck!

Steam tube looks good. Very similar to what I did on mine. Glad to see someone is getting work done. I finally got my stupid ass fuel pump mounting plate drilled out this weekend after breaking off the bung. Now I gotta find two replacement NPT+barb to AN fittings to replace it.

Two questions for you about your work, which others might find of use later:

That's a nice polished elbow - notice it has a tab on it - is that a kit from somewhere?

Where the heck is your MAF? Or are you tuning out the MAF (which is totally possible to do)?

kennedy off road on the intake assembly (for a 00 1500 truck, if it matters)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-2006-CHEVY-SILVERADO-AIR-INTAKE-KIT-4-8L-5-3L-6-0L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQihZ011QQitemZ320076788213QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

the MAF sensor is just behind the air filter (have connection kinda towards the bottom)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/maf.jpg

I am curious if your drop spendles are from Early Classic and what spring your using in the front. The tubular control arms look great but from my understanding they are expensive. I have a picture of my 67 when from a few years ago that I will be posting, but I have completely started over with body work etc... I will be interested in your stance once you get it on the ground with body and engine weight. Great job and I will be talking to you.

If you decide you don't like your exhaust, give it to me

How does it sound, or have you fired it yet (I want a sound clip)

Very nice dude

You gonna battery relocate to driver's side? There is a stock tray for that.

I am curious if your drop spendles are from Early Classic and what spring your using in the front. .

no the spindles are "western" spindles from CPP and a 1" drop spring...


If you decide you don't like your exhaust, give it to me

How does it sound, or have you fired it yet (I want a sound clip)
no i havent started it yet , but ill be sure to make a post with vid about it.


You gonna battery relocate to driver's side? There is a stock tray for that.
you're slipping :hm: , look up several pics, its mounted on the frame behind the dr side wheel....

Sorry :D

heres a update...... i got a complete bed from MAR-K with the hidden handle /flush tailgate....also i tried primeing it, but i found out quick that primer doesnt stick to galvaized surfaces to well..... so thats why in the video its primer black (that i tried to wipe off) so now its two tone with some custom acetone streaks....... anywho.... i got the wiring squared away, and had to test it, as seen in video.... first attempt at starting it, it ran like crap then died... looked at my ground points (only 2 places) and they were both just finger tight...so i tightened them and WROOOOOMMMMM... like half a crank and it ran great..... i just put temperary power where needed to start it....
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2275.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2277.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2279.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/100_2278.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/th_100_2285.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/bigD76/68%20short%20step/?action=view&current=100_2285.flv)

Sounds pretty good, but it's kinda hard to tell without hearing it in person... Rolls eyes

sweet.
I'm diggin' your 2 helpers over there in the yellow vette...startem young!

Great progress, lookin gooooood!!!

I'm following this closely, I would love to do this engine swap into mine :cool:

Looks awesome!! Just small 2 cents... Please either put it up on jackstands or disconnect your driveshaft.
I recently (November) was almost done restoring a '56 Bel Air. I just dropped it off of the Jackstands and told my 5year old daughter to move out from in front of it. She argued, but finally moved. I reached in and started it up. and it fired up wide open throttle. Before I could turn the key the tranny somehow dropped into gear and nearly ran into my house. I turned the wheel and made it down the driveway, but I was going to hit a the iron gate and the Trailblazer SS on the other side of the gate. I had seconds to react. i had to put the car into a tree on the property line. The tree was 30 ft from the front bumper and the wheels were burning rubber the whole way. Not trying to be a downer, but I would really hate to see you or your little ones get hurt. I immediately went over and hugged my little girl.
shawn
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_43_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_47_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_45_full.jpg

Ok, you beat me. I'm jealous :)

I guess I should bust some ass and work on mine today, since I am so freaking close to finishing it ain't funny (have been for months). Everytime I think about it, I lose motivation though :(

Looks awesome!! Just small 2 cents... Please either put it up on jackstands or disconnect your driveshaft.
I recently (November) was almost done restoring a '56 Bel Air. I just dropped it off of the Jackstands and told my 5year old daughter to move out from in front of it. She argued, but finally moved. I reached in and started it up. and it fired up wide open throttle. Before I could turn the key the tranny somehow dropped into gear and nearly ran into my house. I turned the wheel and made it down the driveway, but I was going to hit a the iron gate and the Trailblazer SS on the other side of the gate. I had seconds to react. i had to put the car into a tree on the property line. The tree was 30 ft from the front bumper and the wheels were burning rubber the whole way. Not trying to be a downer, but I would really hate to see you or your little ones get hurt. I immediately went over and hugged my little girl.
shawn
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_43_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_47_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/862000-862999/862546_45_full.jpg

:jdp:

Ok, you beat me. I'm jealous :)

I guess I should bust some ass and work on mine today, since I am so freaking close to finishing it ain't funny (have been for months). Everytime I think about it, I lose motivation though :(

ill add insult to injury too, i broke my feed fitting (like you) and replaced it with a fitting i found at ACE hardware...... this fitting was on the fitting shelf (you know the ones that people get the fittings, and instead of putting it where it belongs they put it on the shelf below) it was only 1.25$, but didnt see another like it..altho i quit looking when i saw it... so shift hurry up and git it going......

man youre so lucky you had a chance to at least steer the car out of harms way , next time go sit in the car before starting it while loading the brake to make sure nothing happens .
we drive mostly manuals here where learned at the driving school to hold the clutch and the brake and wiggle the gearstick to see if its in neutral before starting

youre lucky you didnt used one a fancy remote startswitch so you can turn the motor while working under the bonnet for valveadjusting and stuff

I have had my blazer drive backwards through a house gotta be carefull.. Nice foundation you have so far..