I'm looking to keep my blazer looking unmolested inside. I currently have 6x9's outfitted in holes in the rear CST panels :dohh: that were installed by the previous owner. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2279000-2279999/2279362_18_full.jpg

I am going to replace rear CST panels and carpet. The top is off and I want some tunes, but I don't want the components to be visible. So I'm thinking of putting 4" speakers under the rear seat firing to the front and covering them with some type of fabric that matches the interior. I would like to install and amp to drive a 10" subwoofer but the placement of the sub is a bit tricky. I want it hidden. Clearance under the rear seat is TIGHT, like 3-4 inches. So, I'm thinking about going with downward firing 10" sub for under the front passenger seat. No rails or tracks to worry about. Don't have to worry about the seat moving over it. I can wrap the box in carpet or vinyl to match the interior. Having the box under the seat may be a nuisance when getting in and out for people navigating to and from the back seat. I'm thinking if you can't get around the woofer box, then you probably should not be in the truck at all. Anyone put a nice looking box under the seat before? If not, where else can I put one, besides my arse, that it would be hidden?

i was thinkiing about doin two 8's under my rear seat.

Did you see the Bronco Foose did on Overhaulin' last week. They put a sub in a faux gas can in the back of the rig. Of course, with the price of gas these days that might be a target for theft too. There was a board member who was building a caprice wagon. He was building his subs in "beach balls" in the back of the wagon. Looked pretty slick in the sketches.

I have numerous years of advanced car audio installs. I'll check out my blazer today. If you are crafty with fiberglass you can do just about anything. Don't worry about the subs fireing forward though. Generally in an SUV you get more output firing to the rear. It gives the long wavelength a chance to do it's thing. In my 2002 silverado I do have dual 8's firing forward due to design limitations. However if you want a more natural sound, my brain says to have them firing forward, assuming of course they fit.

My subs are goint into the bed panels.

If you sit in a car or truck that totally rocks you will notice their arrangment in the front is very beefy. Sometimes multiple 6.5" mids on each side. Since most Blazer guys don't want to cut their doors or kick panels you may resort to having your mids and highs in the side panels in front of the rear bench. To really keep up with my two 8's in my 2002 I need way more than my Infinity Perfect 6.5's.

Just make sure you have the mids and highs capable enough to keep up with a pair of 8's. It takes alot more than many think.

How about building a sub enclosure inside one of the rear CST panels and then screwing the CST panel over it. Because it is bass it will still be heard and out of the way. Put your amp in there too. Same thing I did in a 96 Tahoe 4wd drive I had and people where like what the "f", where is that coming from.

Exactly!

Exactly!
:agree:

And any thing over a 10" is overkill, I ran 2 10's in my USAC / IASCA
firebird and it would do plenty, I was running 4 8's but got greeding
for the lo lo's, so I took out my 8's and put in the 10's ported :cool:

IASCA tourneys!!! You're not messing around.

Always wanted to do it but when I was 17 (now almost 30) I realized that car audio was a tough living. Lot's of fun just not a lot of cash. I have some decent photos of my 2002. Nothing fancy but it works.

(2) Kicker 8's, now sealed, they were ported and way to sloppy
Infinity Perfects front and rear (very bright tweeter, not too happy)
All Orion amps
Capacitor
1/0 to the distribution block and then 4gauge to the amps.
Some Dynamat here and there too

Average install with good gear.

When my friends complain about how their systems sound the first thing I ask them about is the quality of their RCA's and how they grounded the entire system. That is most of the problems I find with my buddies stereos.

1987 Firechick'n (See attached Photo)

*Keep in mind this was back in 1995

Sony Cd changer and 1/2 din controller
(Not the crappy ass rf modulater type)

5 Autotek 150 x 150 amps (450 Mono)

4 1" Sony Dome Tweeters
2 4" Rockford Audiophile Mids
2 8" Rockford Audiophile Rears
2 10" Rockford Punch Pro's

2 1 Million Microfared Caps
2 Diehard Gold 900 cca Battery's
1 Redline battery Isolater

0 Guage Phoenix Gold wire
0 Guage PG Gold connectors
* All other wiring was 8 guage

4 Turbine Fans for Amp rack cooling
8 Led fuse warning system in ashtray

*Everything designed and installed by yours truely

Missed best in Show twice (By less than 5 points)

Never placed lower than 3rd in any show entered

Best Spl was only 137.5 but hey that's not to bad

*Side note wife made it in 2 magazines, I never did
she screamed 142 db, and I have proof, it's no BS

:ho:

137.5 is very loud in a car. Fosgate Punch's and Poenix Gold, yeah that's 1995! I purchased an Old School Orion 2100 HCCA amp off Ebay for $250. One of the best amps ever. Totally underrated in power, by about 1000 watts.

It's funny though. Brand Popularity varies from county to county and state to state.

In 1994 I was 17 years old (so was my frient Matt) and was one of the first couple hundred students and Installers Institute in Daytona Fl. A 17 year old with his closest friend at Daytona Beach during Spring Break. What were my parents thinking :metal: :ww: :dum: :b69:


Never entered a contest though. That must have been fun. I couldn't even imaging what competing would be like today. Way too much technology and geekazoids with tons of money.

My biggest enclosure ever was (4) Kicker 12's in a 1970? Cutlass Convertable with candy paint and Dayton Wire Wheels. Talk about Gangster. My neighbors staired at me for weeks.

Thanks for the memories. You and I were into it heavy at the same time. I hung up my nail gun until about 2 years ago.

I see you only have 7 posts, have you posted your blazer in the 4x4 blazer sticky on top of this section?

Pioneer makes a shallow mount sub. But 3-4in is extremely tight. Most mids need 4 in or so. I would look in another direction. I could not do downfiring in my 2002 with 8's and I had about 9.5in or so. They have to breath.

I see you only have 7 posts, have you posted your blazer in the 4x4 blazer sticky on top of this section?

Yep, he's - been there/done that - already. :)

Heres a pic of my subs. Two 8"s in a console between the rear buckets, firing down. It sounds awsome.

So here is the set up I'm thinking:

Rear seat:
Clearance under the rear seat is TIGHT, like 3-4 inches.

JL Audio XR653-CS under the rear seat firing forward and covering it with moss green fabric to match the interior. 6.5", 4", and 1". The 6 5" speakers my pose a fitment problem. Perhaps I can angle them up to make them fit. And an amp for the sub up front.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/images/3548.jpg
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=121


Front seat:

10" Sub firing down in an enclosure. Carpeted with and extra new K/5 Blazer emblem I scored on ebay for $0.99 Fiberglass sounds nice...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I thought about the being hidden behind the side panels. Not sure if I have enough clearance. Don't subs need some open space for air movement. I'm think they won't work properly unless I create port in the panel. :no: cutting the panels, please.

Check out this retro CD player/ head unit I put in. Kenwood EZ-500.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2279000-2279999/2279362_19_full.jpg

Great ideas guys... keep them coming.

Heres a pic of my subs. Two 8"s in a console between the rear buckets, firing down.

Holy Crap. Nice! Are those cup holders or ports?

I'm looking for stealth and stock look on mine though.

Holy Crap. Nice! Are those cup holders or ports?

I'm looking for stealth and stock look on mine though.

Cup holders.

I had a down firing sub in my 02' while experimenting. It really shook the sheat metal when I cranked it up. That's with modern day construction and tons of Dynamat.

Are you going to down fire strictly for stealth?

If you want stealth, for example: I would rear fire the 10" and make a grill cover similar to what you see on home speakers. You could even fashion the frame of the grill to have a mounting spot for your new emblem.

I was thinking about horn tweeters mounted under the dash in the front. They cover a lot of the mid range and can totally crank. It sounds as if you are going to have all your mids and highs coming from the rear. It can play loud but you will always wonder why it doesn't sound right. You have to have roughly 75% of your mids and highs coming from in front of you. I would fashion up a 5-1/4" kick panel set of separates.

You know, they make open-air subs... not sure if that helps at all.

Stealth is the key.

Here is just the power center of my 2002 Silverado. That plywood panel hinges for fuse replacement and the addition or subtraction of any new components. Could have had it totally wireless if I didn't run out of steam by the end of the day. I slacked off with the last few wires showing. That's ok though.

It's funny when you look at how nasty the first couple photos are. You would never think it could end being as clean as it is.

This entire set up fits behind the rear bench. My sub fits under the seat. The vehicle is still fully functional and you would never know I'm running about 1500watts.

Be the coolest dude with a K5 and put horn tweeters under the dash before I do this summer!

195333

195334

195335

195336

I think you're thinking of "Free Air" subs. They aren't actually open air. You still have to permanantly separate the front wave of the woofer from the rear wave.

Okay - dumb question, but what is a "horn tweeter?"

Similar to what you see in Gyms and concerts. Wide dispersion and they come in sizes like 2x7. I've never put one in a car but it will work. The mounting is all you really have to work out. They need no enclosure. If your just trying to rock, and in a Blazer that's all you really can do, this would do.

195342

So ideally, you would have one on each side of the dash - hidden up under the dash? Pointed down or ?

Right at your crotch I'm guessing. I only looked under there for a second. I think two in the center would work if you also had some mids/highs in the doors or kick panels. I would look at each horn differently and then decide on its placement. You can actually buy the driver (what produces the sound) and then build your own horn (disbursment mechanism) out of ABS plastic. If your running 10's and you've done it right, you'll need a ton of front end (mids and highs) to keep up.

:agree:

And any thing over a 10" is overkill, I ran 2 10's in my USAC / IASCA
firebird and it would do plenty, I was running 4 8's but got greeding
for the lo lo's, so I took out my 8's and put in the 10's ported :cool:

I run 1 8" JL Dual voice coil in my setup and it is pretty impressive. Peeps ask me all the time "wheres the rest of the kickers".

I'm gonna watch this thread close because it's almost time to go topless and i need to hide my kicker as well.

I remember the horns were starting to make an emergence back around '96. I have two 4" Orion coaxial in the center speaker location. They are okay, but the horns are definatly the way to go for stealth. There should be plenty of space under the dash for the horns. I never heard them, but I would imagine they have way better sound than the 4" coaxials when combined with a well driven 10" sub.

I could then get away with just some 4" mids under the rear seat facing forward sine I only need 25% coming from the rear. They're just filler. Sweet.

I see what you are saying about the down facing sub making my Blazer a rattle trap. Hmmm. I really don't want to have it exposed though. Seems I would have to put it behind the rear seat to make it face the rear. I have a 10" sub in my Mustang and it faces the rear. Sounds great. I wonder if having the sub in the back of a car is just for conveience or does it sound better. Think about it. Most new cars do not have the room for a sub up front. So they go in the rear where space exists. Our Blazers have plenty of room under the front passenger seat, so why not just put it there? Home audio subs can be up front by the TV. Sounds good to me. Besides, having the sub under front passenger seat might make my wife happy. :happy:

I can go on forever about car audio. Just make sure that if you do put Horns in the front that you some how have mids up there too. Really good horns only go down to about 750hz. You still will need something that is balanced with the horns to cover 80hz-750hz. Otherwize you will have a huge gap in your mid range. That is 80-750hz is an extremely important range. Actually they are all important.

I can go on forever about car audio.

Same here, I could talk about it for hours ;)

You still will need something that is balanced with the horns to cover 80hz-750hz. Otherwize you will have a huge gap in your mid range. That is 80-750hz is an extremely important range. Actually they are all important.


Are the pair or 4" Clarion coaxials in the dash good enough for mids? I know they're not the best. However, they are rated for 80W each. Perhaps one 5x7 would be better for producing the mid range I want. It will not be balanced. It's not balanced right now with two in the center anyway. I suppose enough room may exist under the dash for a 5 1/4" encloser. Again, stealth is what I want.

I suppose I could take the truck to several of the local stereo shops and see what ideas they dream up.

This might work pretty well for a Blazer...

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/700/l700BASS4CH-f.jpeg
$399.99

Infinity created the BassLink II car subwoofer for people who crave high-performance bass but don't have a lot of space. But what if you want to punch up the mids and highs in your system as well? This package expands the BassLink II's capabilities by adding the Basslink 4sc 4-channel amplifier module.

The BassLink II combines a 10" square subwoofer, a 10" square non-powered cone, and a 250-watt amplifier, for loud, clear bass in a fraction of the space taken up by conventional sub boxes. Now you can add a 4-channel amplifier to your powered subwoofer by sliding the included amp module into the BassLink's expansion slot. Once it's installed, your expanded BassLink II sends 50 watts to each of your vehicle's front and rear speakers, in addition to the 250 watts already powering its internal sub.

As an added bonus, the BassLink 4sc features a built-in phantom center channel that sharpens and improves the stereo image of your movies and music without adding an extra speaker. An included wired remote control lets you adjust the phantom center channel settings from the driver's seat.

An array of controls lets you tweak your sound so the subwoofer sounds its best, while the proper frequencies are assigned to your front and rear speakers. You'll enjoy full-range sound that's strong and balanced. A phase control ensures that the sub works with the speakers in your car, not against them. Raise or lower the bass impact with the bass boost feature, and control the level with the wired remote.

Mounting brackets allow you to install the BassLink II vertically or horizontally, so you'll be able to fit this compact enclosure almost anywhere. And you can connect this system to any car system, even a factory radio.
Details:
» package includes Infinity BassLink II powered subwoofer and the Infinity BassLink 4sc 4-channel amplifier expansion module

BassLink II
» compact powered subwoofer
» 10" square woofer and passive radiator
» Class D 250-watt RMS amplifier
» wired volume control with 16-1/4' cable
» variable low-pass crossover (50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave)
» bass boost (-6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz)
» phase control (0-180 degrees)
» preamp- and speaker-level inputs
» vertical mounting dimensions (with mounting feet): 15"W x 15"H x 10-1/4"D; horizontal mounting dimensions (with mounting feet): 15"W x 9-3/4"H x 15-1/8"D
» power and signal harnesses included
» warranty: 1 year
» Want more peace of mind? Extended Service Plans Available

BassLink 4sc
» 4-channel amplifier expansion board for BassLink II
» 50 watts RMS x 4
» phantom center channel with wired remote control
» warranty: 1 year
» Want more peace of mind? Extended Service Plans Available

The image and product description were taken from www.crutchfield.com. August 14, 2006.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-OcwnOmfTTJb/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=700BASS4CH

Ahhh, I love old threads coming back to life. Especially if they are a Car Audio thread.

Ya know, if it meets your needs I say go for it. Generally a self powered sub IMO is going to be a little underpowered. Self powered Car Audio subs are not nearly as common as home. In home audio probably 75% of the subs are powered and powered well.

That "non powered" 10" cone is a passive radiator. It takes the job of what a port would do. It plays the rear wave of the powered 10" woofer.

Previousely I was under the impression you wanted to hide or conceal your installed sub. This may look a bit high tech and out of place in a self described purists Blazer. You can put a 10" woofer by yourself in 1cuft box, buy a rockin amp all for well under $400. The sub in that woofer retails for about $100 or less. A good amp these days is only $150, at that's for a sweet amp. So the trade off is $400 and ready to go with a bit of a high tech look, or $300 build it yourself and you can make it look stock.

What ever makes you happy is what matters the most. I've never been apposed to self powered subs, the old bazooka tubes in the right application were pretty good.

Yeah... you're right. The size of this self powered sub is just a tad too big to conceal under my seat. However, this self powered sub has the capability to power the entire system. My attention was drawn to this setup because you are getting a decent sounding sub without the hassel of hiding two amps under the rear seat with the wires and etc.

If I build a sub under the front seat, I'm not sure how good it will sound. Guess that really depends on making sure I build and enslore that has the right volume for a decent speaker and proper power.

Right now, I have a Sony XM-10020. (300 x 1 RMS) to go with my Sony XM4050 amp. (50 x 4 RMS). Then I going with a one 10" sub, JL 10W3V3-4.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=24

I'm not looking for a killer system. Just one that will sound decent. The amps are brand new, never used. But they are from the late 90's. I have had them in storage for about 10 years with the intent to use them.

Any amp from the 90's is generally a better amp than something built today.

I did see later that it had a 4ch amp as well for the mids and highs. I'm just thinking that you wouldn't be too happy with something that looks like a computer in the back of your blazer.

An amp rack under the bench would be very simple to do. You have most of the gear. Odds are the amps you have are better than what's in that sub. Fitting a sub under the drivers seat is a toughy.

Keep your original center console but pull it out and store it away. Buy a crappy reproduction one and seel the lid. Cut out the bottom and do multiple layers of fiberglass in the center consol to seel it up and give it rigidity. Build a panel (baffle) that is down firing with at least and inch or so of space between the floor and this panel. Your consol is probably well over 1cuft.

With amps under your rear seat and a woofer in your consol you have lost nothing in style. The only function you have lost is your center console. But if looks really matter this is probably the only "stock" set up I can think of.

Cool idea... thanks. I was thinking I MIGHT be able to work a sub into the original console, but I really think I would have a rattle trap on my hands. Using an aftermarket console seems to be the better route, you just lose the original look... I can't do it. I think I'll have enough room to put the sub under the front passenger seat. I know I don't have enough room on the driver side.

I can't wait. I have new carpet and body mounts. I'm saving up for CST side panels and a sub.

Dude,

Make your aftermarket consol look like stock. Sub under the passenger seat is going to be too tight, as in bad.

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

I also own a 97 TJ that's my DD while I get the K5 back on the road. I say that because of this (www.sirgcal.com/2ktj/). This guy has a super stealth stereo in his TJ & that is what I'd like to do with mine except I'd only want one of the subs under the backseat. I'd build the box the same way, but have 2/3rd's of it for tool storage.

Obviously, the exact dimensions wouldn't be the same, but I don't think the concept can be beat. I LOVE the slide-out amp under the driver's seat!! Come Awn!! What a great idea, and he didn't cheap out on the install OR the write-up. Went immediately to my favorites.

I'll eventually put in a set of split Tahoe seats in the rear of my K5 & when I do, I'll gut them, box them & use the same idea. Having the Jeep let's me try out a bunch of stuff that I can then perfect for implementation to the Blazer.

Good luck with the install, let us know how it works out.

Later,

Buddy

That's what I was thinking too. Hmmm. I suppose I could just fiberglass the inside of a stock console. Or... perhaps I could make new subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and make it look like a stock console. Just reuse the lid or make one.

I also own a 97 TJ that's my DD while I get the K5 back on the road. I say that because of this (www.sirgcal.com/2ktj/). This guy has a super stealth stereo in his TJ & that is what I'd like to do with mine except I'd only want one of the subs under the backseat. I'd build the box the same way, but have 2/3rd's of it for tool storage.

Obviously, the exact dimensions wouldn't be the same, but I don't think the concept can be beat. I LOVE the slide-out amp under the driver's seat!! Come Awn!! What a great idea, and he didn't cheap out on the install OR the write-up. Went immediately to my favorites.

I'll eventually put in a set of split Tahoe seats in the rear of my K5 & when I do, I'll gut them, box them & use the same idea. Having the Jeep let's me try out a bunch of stuff that I can then perfect for implementation to the Blazer.

Good luck with the install, let us know how it works out.

Later,

Buddy


Sorry for 2X post

It does look good and I'm sure it sounds fine. But .586 cuft for three 8's. Thats really tight. W3's are great woofers. The bass probably has the "drum stick against a pillow" sound.

It does look good and I'm sure it sounds fine. But .586 cuft for three 8's. Thats really tight. W3's are great woofers. The bass probably has the "drum stick against a pillow" sound.

I wouldn't care that much. I'm not much of an audiophile.

I couldn't believe that this guy got three 8" subs UNDER the seat. If you've ever seen underneath a TJ rear seat you'd know what I mean.

You also have to remember that there would be more volume under a blazer rear seat. You could also probably get a single 10" under half of the blazer seat or build the enclosure to fill up underneath the back seat. Depending on what you want, you could get the system to sounding pretty good.

That's not the point though, my thought is to adapt this install into my blazer & I'm positive that anything I put in there would be better than the 10 yr old audiovox cassette player w/ two no-name walmart 6x9 in the back.

This exact system would sound like heaven to me.

Later,

Buddy