Man, the buick didnt take much of a hit compared to the Nissan.. Glad she's all right!

I love those seats, where can I pick up a set for the front? And any custom color combos?

The Buick was in worse shape than the picture shows. Seats are 67/68 Buddy buckets. You can find them if you look around. I had an upholstery shop custom make the covers. Here's another link:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=2079024&posted=1#post2079024

those seats look hot...:metal:

Those seats look great! You cant beat the look of the hounds tooth interior.

Got the holes cut out for the a/c. I'm going to use the new "GEN 4" from vintage.

i might as well ask now - is there an indicator to know where to drill the holes, or is everyone just drilling those "wherever"? if you did "wherever", how did you measure/mark where to drill?

i might as well ask now - is there an indicator to know where to drill the holes, or is everyone just drilling those "wherever"? if you did "wherever", how did you measure/mark where to drill?


67ChevyRedNeck is doing a write up where he describes the install:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=245132

You can download the templates and print them out (pages 19 and 20):

http://vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Surefit/Chevrolet%20Trucks/1967-72%20Chevrolet%20Truck%20(wo-Fact%20Air%20-Fact%20Air%20Controls)%20Ine.pdf

I ended up moving the location provided by the template because the vent wouldn't fit quite flush (the dash is curved). I measured 1 1/2" away from the side of the door (inboard) and 1 3/4" up from the bottom of the dash. There's a brace behind the dash that you will have to trim to allow the back side of the vent to screw on correctly, but it was pretty simple. I can take pictures if you need. I borrowed one of my billet aluminum vents from my 48 to test fit and it fit quite well.:metal:

I talked to Vintage Air the other day and I think this is evaporator/control panel I'm going to put in the Suburban/CrewCab, the Gen IV an it's all electric.

http://www.vintageair.com/cat2006/19.pdf

http://www.vintageair.com/products2006.asp

They are also working on retro-kit that will allow you to use the factory unit with this kit (no time frame given).

Did a little more work on the round a/c vent holes. Hammered and dollied them a little to get the vent to fit flush to the dash.

I like those vents.

I like the vents you'll find in a lot of new cars - like the ones I had in my RSX before I sold it. They look like this:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/rsxtrim.jpg

Basically, you can push them flat (closed) or push them open. They spin 360º to put the air wherever you want it.

I like the vents you'll find in a lot of new cars - like the ones I had in my RSX before I sold it. They look like this:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/rsxtrim.jpg

Basically, you can push them flat (closed) or push them open. They spin 360º to put the air wherever you want it.

Those are pretty cool. Here's some more:

http://www.hotrodair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=173/category_id=45/home_id=2/mode=prod/prd173.htm
http://www.billetspecialties.com/product.asp?cid=8&scid=113
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/1300/

Those are pretty cool. Here's some more:

http://www.hotrodair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=173/category_id=45/home_id=2/mode=prod/prd173.htm
http://www.billetspecialties.com/product.asp?cid=8&scid=113
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/1300/

Man the ones in the first link are pretty sweet!

hart, looking good!! Why are you going with the GEN4 kit rather than sure-fit for our trucks?

hart, looking good!! Why are you going with the GEN4 kit rather than sure-fit for our trucks?

There's a couple of reasons I'm using the GEN IV. First, the "Surefit" is a retrofit kit meant to be installed with the factory holes and requires no firewall modifications. I smoothed my firewall and eliminated all the factory heater/ac holes. Secondly, the GEN IV is the most modern unit that Vintage Air sells. It's all electronic, no slide cables or vacuum pods like the sure-fit kit.

R

Hmmm, uses the factory holes eh? I still haven't welded mine shut :D Question is - is it the same big bulky SIZE as the factory setup? :D

Hmmm, uses the factory holes eh? I still haven't welded mine shut :D Question is - is it the same big bulky SIZE as the factory setup? :D

Gen IV or the SureFit??

Surefit. You said it plugs into all of hte factory firewall holes - but is it as big and bulky in the engine bay (heater core, blower setup) as the stock unit?

Surefit. You said it plugs into all of hte factory firewall holes - but is it as big and bulky in the engine bay (heater core, blower setup) as the stock unit?

Here's some pictures and a link to a SureFit install:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=61810

Vintage Air Surefit manual:
http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Surefit/Chevrolet%20Trucks/1967-72%20Chevrolet%20Truck%20(wo-fact%20air)%20Inet.pdf

Link to a CAA install:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=161402

Finished off the transition are from the rear tail pan to the truck quarters. It will be covered by the bumper, but I didn't want it to look like an after thought. I also got the body ready to come off the chassis (this weekend hopefully!).

R

Oh, it's THAT setup. Yeah. I'm still waiting for someone to develop a kit that pulls fresh air from outside the truck - something innovative, like ... that will put the blower in the kickpanel vent and pull from outside, allowing people to shave their firewall, install a bulkhead, and still get fresh air to cool down.

With the Gen 4, you could always pop open your vents in the kick panel for some fresh air, :D.

Pictures with the bumper on:

Looks superb, you do great work! How many hours you reckon you have in that? 35?

Looks Awesome!

I really like this project. I am very interested in some of the parts you listed from ECE, where can I see the parts online or where can I get a catalog? Any help would be graet thank you.

Google for Early Classic Enterprises.

Well I have been gone awhile but this thing is looking good. I really like the tail lights, stock burb lights never sat well with me.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Looks superb, you do great work! How many hours you reckon you have in that? 35?

35 hours of work and 4 months of ciphering, :D. Are you going to be around tomorrow evening?

Looks Awesome!

Thanks man!

Well I have been gone awhile but this thing is looking good. I really like the tail lights, stock burb lights never sat well with me.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Thanks Kevin. Congrats on the "lil man".

35 hours of work and 4 months of ciphering, :D. Are you going to be around tomorrow evening?


I totally could be. IFC is doing free movies in the park ~6-7 blocks from my house, so I had plans to do that w/friends, but it's neither definite nor required.

If you're able to pop into town, feel free to stop by. As a perk, I have one of those SA-1000 harnesses that I'm looking to offload, or if you just wanted to check it out ... yep!

I totally could be. IFC is doing free movies in the park ~6-7 blocks from my house, so I had plans to do that w/friends, but it's neither definite nor required.

If you're able to pop into town, feel free to stop by. As a perk, I have one of those SA-1000 harnesses that I'm looking to offload, or if you just wanted to check it out ... yep!


Sorry we couldn't make it work out Jason, maybe next time.

R

No worries! Either way, if you're interested in that SA-1000 wiring setup, let me know. I've opted not to use mine. If I weren't taking the time to completely rewire my truck inside and out, I'd totally use it, but ... meh.

No worries! Either way, if you're interested in that SA-1000 wiring setup, let me know. I've opted not to use mine. If I weren't taking the time to completely rewire my truck inside and out, I'd totally use it, but ... meh.

Do you have a link to it?

Look at the last two pictures in this post: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=2237024&postcount=93

Here is Jared's site with the prices, etc.: http://www.currentperformance.com/Accessories/wiring_acc.html

It's the top kit - $94. Will sell shipped for $10 less if it will help you out?

I'll dock 10% off his price and ship it to your door for free, if this is a perk.

Look at the last two pictures in this post: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=2237024&postcount=93

Here is Jared's site with the prices, etc.: http://www.currentperformance.com/Accessories/wiring_acc.html

It's the top kit - $94. Will sell shipped for $10 less if it will help you out?

I'll dock 10% off his price and ship it to your door for free, if this is a perk.


Shifty, I'm not sure what I'm going to do right now. I'm leaving for NM on the 3rd, so the car stuff is going to be on hold for a while, :( .

At least you have na excuse. I am at home right now but have so many chores that I can't touch teh truck. I have the agony of walking by it every single day though.I did have time to get the gas cap mod done and FAQ thread done, and I installed one of the push-on door seals that GMC Pauls sells (but now I can't close the door without seriously slamming it so hard the glass could break!), got firewall blockoff plates done and all wiring stripped out.

I am STILL waiting (3 months later?) for Jegs to send my speedo and tach gauges.

At least you have na excuse. I am at home right now but have so many chores that I can't touch teh truck. I have the agony of walking by it every single day though.I did have time to get the gas cap mod done and FAQ thread done, and I installed one of the push-on door seals that GMC Pauls sells (but now I can't close the door without seriously slamming it so hard the glass could break!), got firewall blockoff plates done and all wiring stripped out.

I am STILL waiting (3 months later?) for Jegs to send my speedo and tach gauges.

Which ones are you getting? Part #?

R

Good news! Got the body off the frame, :metal: .

Part numbers., if anyone is interested (NOTE: some of these gauges are electric because I'm installing an LS1!!)

Autometer Ultra Light II 5" gauges:

autometer 4989 - speedo
autometer 4998 - tach

Autometer Ultra Light II 3-1/8" gauges:

autometer 4992 - voltage
autometer 4953 - oil pressure
autometer 4937 - water temp 100-250
autometer 4913 - fuel level

Bad news, :(. After pulling the body off the frame and I found out that it's been tweaked pretty bad. I could try to get it fixed, but since the body is already off, I might as well replace it. Anyone got a good 2WD Suburban frame?

That is minor Hart Rod, very easy repair especially with the body off already. Go have it fixed

That is minor Hart Rod, very easy repair especially with the body off already. Go have it fixed

I'm not so sure. The frame had a 2" crack in it also right behind the front crossmember. Plus, right side frame horns where the bumper bolts on seems messed up also. I was going to try and clean this frame up without taking anything apart. If I had another frame, I could just sand blast/paint it and swap everything over.

R

jim meyer racing advertises frames any wheelbase...expensive but nice...might be an option

Bad news, :(. After pulling the body off the frame and I found out that it's been tweaked pretty bad. I could try to get it fixed, but since the body is already off, I might as well replace it. Anyone got a good 2WD Suburban frame?

Cut it out.... Make that bad boy a Tahoe :metal:

Cut it out.... Make that bad boy a Tahoe :metal:

I do not have the skills or the patience of Frizzle Fry, :D. Plus, I want to drive it again before the end of the decade.

jim meyer racing advertises frames any wheelbase...expensive but nice...might be an option

I'm just going to find another frame and swap everything over.

rob, if you have troube finding a frame, let me know , i've got a friend with a71-72 suburban that he was wanting to sell cheap . it's here north of montgomery. if your interested i'll get up with him and get the details , mike

rob, if you have troube finding a frame, let me know , i've got a friend with a71-72 suburban that he was wanting to sell cheap . it's here north of montgomery. if your interested i'll get up with him and get the details , mike

Any help finding a good one closer would be great. Let me know.

R

Bolted the motor and tranny in the chassis just to make some room in the shop. Everything lines up real well. Too bad, I'm going to have to pull it out again.

looks good from here

I do not have the skills or the patience of Frizzle Fry, :D. Plus, I want to drive it again before the end of the decade.


We all know you do ...and mine was back on the road after three weeks ;) Too bad the bend is in the wrong place or I'd say you have no excuse :lol:

stripmasters ph number cant get anyone to answer or call back with one on website????

Send me an email with your phone number and email and I'll forward it to him.

R

stripmasters ph number cant get anyone to answer or call back with one on website????

Did you get in touch with him?

***********

I'm already missing working on the burb. I was so close to getting it done. Oh well, hopefully I can get it finished for the power tour next year. I've already found 2 projects here, :D. I gotta have something to play with.....:).

come on, come on..... we need updated pics:metal: BTW i like you 50??? chevy pullin the trailer.. thata way to keep them working..

come on, come on..... we need updated pics:metal: BTW i like you 50??? chevy pullin the trailer.. thata way to keep them working..

I'm getting another frame from UNCLE. Hopefully I'll be able to put the chassis back together when I go home in October. Then if my Painter, makes some progress, We'll put the body back on the chassis around Christmas time. Then, hopefully, some "real" progress will begin. :D

if you can pull it all together should be a great christmas!! good Luck!!

:help: Sandblastsed both inner quarters and brushed on some POR15. Hopefully I'll be able to start welding them on tomorrow. Last picture is the fuel door I'm going to install.

Hartrod. When you weld that panel back on that you cut off, do you put the por15 on there before you weld the panel or after? Can you get to it after to apply the por15???

if you can pull it all together should be a great christmas!! good Luck!!

That's going to take some doing. I'm having jaw surgery in the middle of all of this, :D, :( .

:help:

Hartrod. When you weld that panel back on that you cut off, do you put the por15 on there before you weld the panel or after? Can you get to it after to apply the por15???

Which panel are you talking about?

R

That's going to take some doing. I'm having jaw surgery in the middle of all of this, :D, :( .



Which panel are you talking about?

R

The rear panel, or even the front panel. Anywhere that two bare metals are being welded together. Do you put the por15 down, put the new metal then weld it???

Anywhere that two seems are coming together...

When possible, I try to POR15 the area after I weld it. That stuff puts off a pretty caustic smell when you try to weld near it.

R

Finished up the passenger rear quarter panel. Here's some pics.

In this pic for example.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=226287&stc=1&d=1164117917

Do you put port15 on the back of that new panel that your welding on?

In this pic for example.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=226287&stc=1&d=1164117917

Do you put port15 on the back of that new panel that your welding on?


Yes, just try to stay away from the weld area. After you have it all welded, then you can take a garden sprayer and put POR15 in it and spary up in an access panel to cover the rest.

Rob, i didn't realize you were so exceptional, @ all these projects. A trip down to see the 52 could turn into a beautiful thing. I was wondering, are you being transferred to New Mexico?, if so maybe i should wait tosee the 52, being i live in Wa. state.
Also another thing i would like to take this opportunity to thak you for your service to our beloved, country. Like you i served, in the 70's, in the U.S. Army. Later, Danny's 72 superchey

Rob, i didn't realize you were so exceptional, @ all these projects. A trip down to see the 52 could turn into a beautiful thing. I was wondering, are you being transferred to New Mexico?, if so maybe i should wait tosee the 52, being i live in Wa. state.
Also another thing i would like to take this opportunity to thak you for your service to our beloved, country. Like you i served, in the 70's, in the U.S. Army. Later, Danny's 72 superchey

Danny,

Thanks for your support. We've got a lot of good folks doing a very difficult job and we will until the end. I've already tranferred to NM, but my family is still living in PCola until next spring. I don't plan on bringing more than one project out here when my family comes out (probably the Burb). I will store the other two in Pensacola with friends. Let me know if you are still interested. Take care.

R

Danny,
...... I don't plan on bringing more than one project out here when my family comes out (probably the Burb). I will store the other two in Pensacola with friends. ........

R

You could always leave the donkey with me ;) :D :rolleyes:

You could always leave the donkey with me ;) :D :rolleyes:

I may take you up on that if my storage plans in PCola fall through, :).

Fuel door is a good idea...looks great...

:hiya:

I love seeing the burb! It is looking great.

So, it sounds like Donkey has been put on the back burner. I haven't been able to check out the site in awhile.

OK, I'm back in the game! :D I picked up a straight 3/4 ton frame from UNCLE and have started prepping in for all the components from my original frame. Also, my buddy started on the body work. He's almost got the firewall done and the bottom is ready to be linered. He should have that done by time I get the frame back together and then we'll mate the two together.

Good to hear! Now get to work! :lol:

:metal:

can you shoot some pics of the inside firewall area behind the glovebox, pls?

also, if shaving the stock gas filler, please do the same there as well if you can.

TIA

can you shoot some pics of the inside firewall area behind the glovebox, pls?

also, if shaving the stock gas filler, please do the same there as well if you can.

TIA


Here's a couple. I'll take some more later today.

I'll explain the reason I'm asking:

I was just curious to see if you ground (shaved) the inside of the cab smooth. I've seen three different member's trucks where they patched the in-cab tank hole (non-Burbs) and left the inside flange in place. I thought it looked tacky. I've seen a couple of photos here on the forum where people left the flanges inside the cab for the heater cor/AC assembly, and I also thought that looked tacky. I was just curious if you "shaved" both inside and out. It looks like you did (and somehow I'm an idiot and forgot you went w/aftermarket fuel filler)

Cool! Some more progress. Looking good Rob:metal:

Actually, I didn't shave the inside. I'm sure it looks a lot cleaner, but I figured with dynamat (or varient) on the inner firewall and the a/c hanging down, no one would know but me, :D. I filled each individual hole, some guys cut out the entire (or most) of the firewall and use one piece of metal to remove the holes. That's probably how they end up with a smooth firewall on the inside.

<----- (Open mouth, insert foot) :D

<----- (Open mouth, insert foot) :D

Try with a hollandaise sauce. It goes down easier :D ;)