*** 8/28/08 Body painted and mounted back on chassis!!!

I put this here because most of the modifications/upgrades apply to trucks as well. The first picture is of the truck when I bought it. It was an original California black plate truck. It had minimal rust, most do to a leaky windshield and the exhaust exiting out the sides. The next picture is a rendering of what I envision it looking like when I'm done (rendering by Zumo graphics).

List of work completed:

Front: ART bags, ART upper and lower Strong Arms, and converting front suspension to 5 lugs (ECE).
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=174330

Rear: ART bags, CPP C-Notch, ECE Super track bar, shock relocation kit, 5 lug conversion, hidden hitch, and flip down tag.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=162718
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=162641

Build sheet:
ART Ride Pro E, 3 gallon tank and solenoids
ART upper and lower Strong arms
ART Bags
ECE 2 1/2 dropped spindles
ECE 5 lug conversion kit with drilled rotors/ master cylinder/ power booster...
ECE Super track bar
ECE Shock Relocation Kit
ECE 5 lug axles
ECE hidden hitch and flip down tag
PST sway bar & ECE lower sway bar mount
Misc parts from board members (drag link, trailing arms, brake pedal....)
CPP C-Notch and 1 1/2 lowering blocks
Polyurethane trailing arm bushings
Rear Camaro discs using Glock's bracket:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=251325
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=249073
New 3.73 Gears
New Eaton posi unit
Energy Suspension polyurethane body mount kit

Body work:

Replaced/repaired inner and outer rockers, lower inner kickpanel, partial floorborard, and doglegs on both sides (Goodmark parts from Ed at MotherTruckers)
Welded holes in firewall including heater box
Welded in new rear quarters
Removed stock upper suburban trim and filled holes
Welded in 5 1/2" remote gas filler lid from 80's Nissan Sentra car
Welded up holes in dash installed by PO
Welded up factory suburban barn door holes
New Goodmark parts: Doors, fenders, inner fenders, core support, cowl induction hood, 72 GM inner and outer grill, 72 bumpers
Converted manual liftgate extensions to gas struts
Removed tailgate scissors and replaced with cables.
Welded in truck bed ends for truck tail lights.
Bottom of body has been sprayed with SpeedyLiner undercoating

Engine:
5.3/4L60E w/ throttle by wire (only 10 miles, pulled out of 2006 Tahoe)
Radix Magna Supercharger :D
Doug Thorley headers!!!!!
http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/engine/0709tr_1967_chevy_c10_engine_swap/photo_01.html
Cadillac CTSv oil pan
ECE motor & tranny mounts
ECE 27 gallon Stainless Steel EFI fuel tank
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx
Custom fuel line setup using Corvette fuel/pressure regulator (Thanks Shifty, BowTieOgre and PCMCobra!)

Interior
Autometer gauges (Putter)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=110613
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=188607&highlight=gauges
Custom Buddy Bucket seats
Flaming River Steering column

More pics of the tear-down... Made a nice mess on the floor also, forgot to put something in the end of the transmission, DOH!!!

OK, the hard part is done (not!). While the engine is out of the way, I plan on smoothing the firewall, redoing the front brake lines, redoing the front airlines, clean and paint. Then on to the fun stuff......

lookin great man....keep up the good work

Gotta love that. Good thing mine's a daily driver or it would be in pieces too! Keep the progress pics rollin!!!

I have been wanting to see your burb for a while (since the PS thread) and didn't know where to look. It looks sweet! NICE WORK! I love those burbs!!!

Looks good, hope my new one will look half as good one day.

Are you going to use the stock exhaust manifolds or headers? I have been trying to get my stock manifolds to work but both sides are hitting the frame. I have heard that big block headers will work if you use LS1 flanges on them. I will be trying that soon.

Are you going to use the stock exhaust manifolds or headers? I have been trying to get my stock manifolds to work but both sides are hitting the frame. I have heard that big block headers will work if you use LS1 flanges on them. I will be trying that soon.


I wanted to use the stock ones, however if you're having problems, I may have to try something else. I think I remember Shifty of GenIII say something about the camaro/corvette stock manifolds would work. I'll try to do some research on that one.

Rob

You can drop it off at my house when your done :)

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet :c2:

can i drive down there in the fall so we can bag my truck next?! ;)

What are you using for motor mounts?
I ran into this problem on my 73 pickup when I was using ECE's motor mounts on my 6.0L/4L80E documented here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=193657

This is with ECE mounts on my '73 frame:
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/manifold_hits.jpg

I am selling those now...

This past weekend I replaced the ECE mounts (which posistions the SBC about 3" forward of a normal SBC) and put S&P motor plates on it (which mounts it back in the same position that a SBC would mount. I expected grinding on the port above to clearance it and was told 00-02 F-body manifolds would work, but I believe I have it to where I can use the factory Truck manifolds.
I

Looks great, keep it up!

Keep Building! Looks good! I have a very similar swap I'm working on, a 2003 Avalanche 4wd running chassis with a 71 burb on top. yikes! good luck

What are you using for motor mounts?
I ran into this problem on my 73 pickup when I was using ECE's motor mounts on my 6.0L/4L80E documented here:

I am selling those now...

This past weekend I replaced the ECE mounts (which posistions the SBC about 3" forward of a normal SBC) and put S&P motor plates on it (which mounts it back in the same position that a SBC would mount. I expected grinding on the port above to clearance it and was told 00-02 F-body manifolds would work, but I believe I have it to where I can use the factory Truck manifolds.
I


Thats the same problem I am having and I am using the S&P plates also. Summit has big block headers for $99 and the flanges are $16 I am going to try that route and maybe I can help us all. Sorry to hijack your thread.

Shifty - come on down!!!

I'm using the ECE motor mounts. I was hoping to be able to use the stock manifolds, but looks like that might not work. A buddy of mine has an 02 LS1, I'll borrow his and see how it works. Oh, well not quite there yet. Spent half the day cleaning (still not done) and started working on fill the holes in the firewall. I also have some rust repair to do, but pretty minimal. After that I will be moving to the rockers and and a small amount of rust on the floors/kickpanels. Here are some more pics, the old burb is definitely at parade rest now.

I also gutted all the engine & dash wiring. I enjoyed this quite a bit, since PO had cut and spliced into every wire on the truck. I found many melted or burnt wires as I was doing this. Also, cut the firewall to accept a new painless wiring harness.

Chris (CaptKaos),

Just read your build post, nice job BTW. I know ECE designed their motor mount kit for the 67-72. Could this be the problem with the exhaust in your truck? I don't know what the differences are in the frames. Also, do you have some pics and descriptions of your fuel system. What tank, fuel pump, type of lines.....????

:bling: pictures and links to the gauge build by Putter and the one in FAQ by Ron Woodgeard.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=200387

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=110613

Man you are getting that thing going. I'll be plugging those same firewall holes here very soon. It is really looking nice. :metal:

Looking Great! Keep up the Sweet Progress

looking good

Lookin great. And perfect timing for me I just started on my sub yesterday and you have already saved me some grief. Thank-you and keep the pics comin....PLEAZE....

Holy crap...that gauge cluster is AWESOME. Where did you ever find something like that???? (**wink**)
Hey, if you are running 2700 rpm and have 0 oil pressure, you better shut'er down (see gauges)
Rob, glad to see you got all the parts home safe & sound. We had a great time at the cook out and really enjoyed meeting you and your family.

Oh, I just remembered you wanted the door hinges. You still need them? Shoot me a PM with address if you do...it's pretty dry out there for a change!! Maybe after we get this house done I will come over and you can help me do MY bags!

Holy crap...that gauge cluster is AWESOME. Where did you ever find something like that???? (**wink**)
Hey, if you are running 2700 rpm and have 0 oil pressure, you better shut'er down (see gauges)
Rob, glad to see you got all the parts home safe & sound. We had a great time at the cook out and really enjoyed meeting you and your family.

Oh, I just remembered you wanted the door hinges. You still need them? Shoot me a PM with address if you do...it's pretty dry out there for a change!! Maybe after we get this house done I will come over and you can help me do MY bags!


Yeah, the gauges look great! I know some dude up in Jackson, that does pretty "decent" work:lol: . Thanks, again we enjoyed meeting everyone too. Come on down and we'll hammer your truck in no time. While I'm doing the bags, you can wire the gauges up:c2: . Any progress on the tailgate?

My compliments on the guage cluster(and everything).All the right stuff in the right place and looking good while doing it.Thumbs up!

My compliments on the guage cluster(and everything).All the right stuff in the right place and looking good while doing it.Thumbs up!


KUDOS again to Putter (with an assist to DJRacer!).

Thats the same problem I am having and I am using the S&P plates also. Summit has big block headers for $99 and the flanges are $16 I am going to try that route and maybe I can help us all. Sorry to hijack your thread.


I'm really curious to know how it turns out for you.

Very strange about people having problems w/ECE mounts - they worked like butter for me :confused:

Thats the same problem I am having and I am using the S&P plates also.

S&P mounts FIXED my problem.

Chris (CaptKaos),

Just read your build post, nice job BTW. I know ECE designed their motor mount kit for the 67-72. Could this be the problem with the exhaust in your truck? I don't know what the differences are in the frames. Also, do you have some pics and descriptions of your fuel system. What tank, fuel pump, type of lines.....????

Thanks for the props. I talked to ECE before ordering them and asked them what all is included in the kit. I looked at them on their webpage and the pieces they are selling along with the mounts appeared to me they were 73-87 pieces. The guy on the phone confirmed this with me and said they should work without the stands on the 73-87. Well they do if you build custom headers, but I am planning on running either 1 or 2 rear mounted turbos on this and wanted to keep the manifolds....

I don't know what they are doing with the position of the mount as I know you 67-72 guys would have to drill new holes to get the 73-87 brackets on there, but if they mount like mine do, it will be way forward from the normal SBC position.

I already knew I would have some grinding to do to miss the EGR port, but with the ECE mounts it was hitting the frame mount that they are selling you. With using the S&P mount I still had to clearance the EGR port, but with the ECE mounts I would have to cut it completely off, or cut a hole in the frame mount. I have been wanting to see Shifty's pics for comparison, just haven't had the time...

As far as the front section of the frame, the 73-87 is the same as the 67-72. Which is why you can put a 73-87 under a 67-72 to upgrade one to newer parts.

Fuel system I am using a 1987-91 EFI Blazer/Jimmy fuel tank, stock sending unit and a AC241 in tank pump. Out of the sending unit is 3 lines: supply, return, Evap. I am tying the same 3 lines from the LS motor into those lines using hardline down the frame and braided line at the front to the motor and at the rear to the tank. At the end of the hardline on the supply line is the standard AC fuel filter.

I won't take up a ton more room than I already have hi-jacking your thread, but on Post #14 there are 2 shots of the front/rear of my fuel lines running down the passenger side of the framerail. When we pull the body back off after aligning the body panels up better I will post more pics to that thread. I may have some more at home also.

I'm really curious to know how it turns out for you.

Very strange about people having problems w/ECE mounts - they worked like butter for me :confused:

Found out why they worked for you in your post/pics. You used '98 Manifolds. I used '00 manifolds based on other recommendations. I may look for those now... What specifically are they off of.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57781

Hart_Rod, Get these and you will be fine... (sent Shifty a PM on what they are off of) I am guessing a '98 F-body...

Found out why they worked for you in your post/pics. You used '98 Manifolds. I used '00 manifolds based on other recommendations. I may look for those now... What specifically are they off of.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57781

Hart_Rob, Get these and you will be fine...


Are these from a car or truck???? Where can I get them?

Rob

There was someone here in Detroit with an identical rig running a sweet old 409 setup with A/C to boot. Same color . I think he was/is a GM service mechanic somewhere based on the stickers on the Burb.

Any progress on the tailgate?
Nope. None...zero...zilch....
BUT...
We have started the house. We have concrete and some garage walls already! (So there went my free time for the next SEVERAL months)

Are these from a car or truck???? Where can I get them?

Rob

I am guessing a '98 F-body. I sent Shifty a PM hopefully he will drop back in here.

Those are off of a 98 Camaro. I got them off ls1tech (before I stopped posting over there) for $40 shipped.

For a picture of all manifolds available for your application, please see this website which covers a 6.0L engine being put in a vehicle. It shows all manifolds that are stock for every year a ways down:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/chevy/131_0406_eng/index1.html

This link might go dead in the next 4-6 weeks, so ... if you're really interested in the info on there, you better right-click those pictures and "save as" with a descriptive title for your reference!!

Actually, for the sake of future usage, I am posting that portion here. Here is a caption and a picture which explains manifolds:

The set of ’98 Camaro/Firebird manifolds (top) worked best for us (PN 12567706 RH, 12559507 LH). Other possibilities include ’99-’03 Camaro/Firebird (second from top), ’99-’03 C/K Silverado (second from bottom), and ’97-’03 Corvette (bottom). These manifolds have 2 1/2-inch outlets that Cole was able to build a complete exhaust off of.

PS - another note, just because I can. The second one from the top is actually from a 99-00 F-body. Notice there is a hole for EGR provisions in the passenger side manifold. The '01-'02 had this deleted.

For flow, the top flow the worst but fit the best. The second from the top flow better and have heat shields on both sides, which is a plus, and flow better, but the flange on the passenger side contacted my ECE motor mounts. I wanted to try the truck manifolds, but ... couldn't find any easily. Maybe when I get up and running and actually put an exhaust system on the truck, I'll look into other options. I would really like to find some genuine headers to use...

Shifty, you wouldn't happen to have an extra set of the top ones would ya? I'll be up there July 4th, might be able to help you a little on your bags.:lol:

I wanted to try the truck manifolds, but ... couldn't find any easily. Maybe when I get up and running and actually put an exhaust system on the truck, I'll look into other options. I would really like to find some genuine headers to use...


If you want, I can bring mine up when I come up there 4th of July weekend.

Rob

lets just say if your truck ones fit on my setup and they're in good shape, we could definitely trade up if you're cool with that. i'm already using a truck oil pan, pickup, dip stick, lol, list goes on and on and on. might as well try the manifolds too.

oh - and i only have a spare of the second from the top - they've been ground on a little to try to make em fit but nothing major. they're in good shape too. i'm reusing the cats for them because i don't have the resources to drill and weld a bung onto the manifolds - on the f-body manifolds, the passenger side manifolds dont have an O² bung on em, both bungs are on the cat.

do the truck manifolds have an O² bung on them anywhere?

i have truck manifolds and they dont fit at all!!!!!! ill see if i can get any pics up...

i'm reusing the cats for them because i don't have the resources to drill and weld a bung onto the manifolds - on the f-body manifolds, the passenger side manifolds dont have an O² bung on em, both bungs are on the cat.

do the truck manifolds have an O² bung on them anywhere?

Why don't you put the O2 bung in the exhaust pipe? That's what I did in my 48. They're just below the collectors. The truck manifolds don't have the 02 sensors in the manifold, they are in the cats and in the exhaust pipe.

Rob

Didn't get as much done as I wanted to today, but I did get all the holes filled in the firewall (>50!!) and made some patch panels. I also stripped the factory wiring harness off my motor. That took about an hour.

I started to stab the motor, but ran out of time. Just kidding, still a lot to do prior to that.

OK, play time is over, taking the family on vacation. I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but I feel like I accomplished quite a bit (prior planning definitely helped). Hopefully, it is at a point now that I can knock out some serious progress in the evenings after work. Thanks for all the encouragement, comments and suggestions. I'll be back on it in a week or so.:metal:

I'll be back on it in a week or so.:metal:

Sweeeeeeeeeet work :cool:

Have a good one :metal:

Wow should be nice when done, your parts will be waiting for you after the cruise.

Wow should be nice when done, your parts will be waiting for you after the cruise.


Thanks Ed, I appreciate the help.

Made it to first stop on trip, the in-laws in Sebring, FL (as in THE 12 Hours of Sebring). On the way down (9 hour drive), I was able to take care of some business. I ordered a 18 circuit Painless harness from Summit. Gave Stan at ECE a call for a tank and tranny crossmember (man, I knew I shoulda bought some of their stock!). Stan is doing a 6.0 install in his Suburban (I think I passed him this week!) I was telling him about all the issues with stock manifolds. He told me that he as been working with Sanderson to develop some new headers for the 5.3/6.0. :clap: He said they should be done in about a month.:drama: The first ones will be HPC coated. I asked him to ask Sanderson if they can make them in Stainless also.:metal: So hopefully the header issue will be put to rest. :ele:

Stan also said that they had a great time doing the OverHaulin espisode. He said that there was a lot more work in the truck than was shown in the 40 minutes of air time. The truck was really worse than they thought, ie they had to replace the rockers, braces, cab corners.... He also said that all of the customizing ideas came from the guy's wife (Note to self: Be carful what you tell the little lady you would want to do to your truck if you could!) Stan would tell you all this himself, but he's to busy selling parts:dnd: . See everyone later.

Rob

Sanderson's making custom headers for GenIII swaps? I had ECE's Sanderson shorties on my 350 before the swap, loved 'em...I'm using MAC shorties but I sure wouldn't mind going to a longtube eventually ;) Are they going to be short like the SBC headers, or full-length headers?

Sanderson's making custom headers for GenIII swaps? I had ECE's Sanderson shorties on my 350 before the swap, loved 'em...I'm using MAC shorties but I sure wouldn't mind going to a longtube eventually ;) Are they going to be short like the SBC headers, or full-length headers?


I forgot to ask him that. I'll try to find out.

Rob

i have truck manifolds and they dont fit at all!!!!!! ill see if i can get any pics up...

This is my '73 frame with S&P mounts with Truck manifolds on them. I had to grind the lower bolt off of the port, but it does fit. The passenger side fits perfectly fine. Unless something better comes along, I plan on using these.

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/truck_man_shave_port1.jpg

This is the drivers side:
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/truck_man_clear1.jpg

I'm using 2005 truck manifolds and have no issues on the passenger side and will only need minor grinding on the drivers side to get the clearance I need. I'm using the S&P mounts. I tried the EC ones but they told me they are specific to 2 wheel drives and wouldn't work for me.

o man your truck blows!!! if ya dont mind what did that set ya back..... on mine it looks like the engine sits lower, but that may be my error.... for a fact on mine i needed to grind the upper pass side frame frail about .75 inch in by about 10 inch long. and the dr side i had to notch it for the collecter flange..

On my LT1 swap in Project Slow Build I had sandersons build me a set of Semi-shorties andd I also moved my motor back 2" tward the fire wall since their is no dist. to worry about. They also coated my tranny cross member for me when I stopped by to get the first set of trial headers. Great people over their and they are all hot rodders so it made for a fun visit.

PS. the burb is looking great!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Got back from vacation and found some more bling-bling on the porch!

Painless 18 ckt harness, lower shock brackest for front shocks (modifying because they hang to low), and sheet metal to fix the floors (thanks Ed, MotherTruckers). I only need about 2 inches from each one (not that I'm complaining).

Quick update: Making a little progress but no pics. Pulled old gas tank and fuel lines. (prepping for my ECE SS tank). Got it up on jackstands and will start rocker and floor repair, gas tank lid install and tail light modifications this weekend. Pics to follow.

Not sure how I've missed this thread - some cool stuff going on!

Thanks Yukon, I've been planning this for a year. Hopefully it will move fairly "quickly". I guess I need to come up with a name for this project, but don't have any ideas -- anybody got any suggestions?

how much for the painless harness - let me know how you like it, how it installs and whether you are required to keep *any* of the old wiring in the truck (if so, what? dome light? anything else?)

how much for the painless harness - let me know how you like it, how it installs and whether you are required to keep *any* of the old wiring in the truck (if so, what? dome light? anything else?)

$320 shipped from Summit. So far the only thing that I may have to reuse or replace are the taillight, b/u light, marker light pigtails. I'll keep track as I go.

Rob

Lookin good Rob, How long did the painless experiment last? to install that is?

I def. need to do this soon too!

Bill

Lookin good Rob, How long did the painless experiment last? to install that is?

I def. need to do this soon too!

Bill

I haven't started the install yet, but I've done quite a few Streetrods. I like wiring personally (I was originally and electrician in the Navy before going to flight school). These new wiring kits are pretty simple and have most of the hard work done for you. But you still need to do your "homework" and study their wiring diagram THOROUGHLY! Then you have to be patient when laying everything out (running the main harnesses). You can do this about 1-2 days. Making it look good (routing wires, tie wrapping everything.....), now takes a little time. I hate excess wire and wires running everywher. I'll probably do a "How To" when I start installing the harness.

R

I'll probably do a "How To" when I start installing the harness.

R
That would be tanfastic!

Auto wiring is my arch enemy and I know there more than a few of us out here. We'll take all the help we can get. :D

A little more progress. I got the electric gas pedal installed (wish the rest of the project could go this easy!). Lined up passenger side doors to ensure good gaps prior to beginning rust repair. I will start on the rockers and floors this week.........

A few more pics for the rust that need repaired. It looks like most of it was caused from a leaky winshield gasket:( .

Update: Removed most of the passengers side rocker, part of the floor board and the innner kick panel. I will finish removing the rest tomorrow and then start fitting the new panels.

Finally got a little more work done on the rockers/floor this week. I've got everything cut out and most of the new parts fitted. I'll screw/tack them all into place, put the door back on for a test fit, and then if all lines up, time to weld it all up and go to the other side.:metal:

Looking real good!!!!!!

Anyone notice the white paper outline on the floor? It is/was the build sheet. I couldn't save it and the only thing I can make out on it is the word "FREMONT". This matches the VIN for where the truck was built.:metal:

More progress.... Got all floor pieces (rockers/floor/kickpanel) fitted. Now some POR15 to prevent any future rust (hopefully!).

Patch Panel for air box (this was a fun one to make:rolleyes: ). I also raised the lower shock mount on my StrongArms. They are the lowest part on the front end and I always seem to drag them. I think I still have enough travel in my shocks, but may have to go with a shorter one.

real nice...........

Slowly but surely making progress. The key for me has been making a little progress every day. I try to get 4-5 hrs on the weekend and at least 1 hr a night.

I didn't have much rust, but it affected 5 pieces that are all tied together creating a multi-dimensional metal jigsaw puzzle. I haven't kept track of my time, but I'm sure it's taken longer than some of our Pro's on this board. It definitely adds to my respect of some the guys that do this type of work with relative ease. After much "ciphering" :rolleyes: I have figured out that the inner rockers are shorter on a truck than a suburban (lengthwise and widthwise). So after spending several hours trying to make the repop work, I finally took Rokcrawln's advice and built my own. :o Rok, not that I didn't believe you, but I had the repop so I thought I would try. I will build my own from now on.:metal:

When I got bored trying to fit the five dimensional metal puzzle together, I ground down most of the welds on the fire wall. Minimal brain power required to do that!:baa: