Question: What's the best way to finish aftermarket body panels? They come with that black primer on them already.

I only want to do the "insides"; under the hood, inside the front fender skirts, and the box-side of the tailgate. The "outsides" will get done by a 'real' painter.

I take it you don't use 2-part epoxy primer on that black primer, because it's only for bare metal, right? Is it necessary to spray any more primer, or do you just paint right over the black primer? Should it be scuffed first?

I want to spray the insides of the wheel wells, and the inside of the tailgate with chip guard. Should I paint first, then chip guard, then paint again?

Speaking of paint, if it's being used with chip guard and/or where you won't really see it, can I use Acrylic Enamel instead of Base Coat/Clear Coat?

What's the best way to get paint and/or chip guard between the tailgate panels and around the supports on the underside of the hood? This is Canada, so I'd like to make sure everything is protected.

Sylvia

the best way to finish aftermarket panels is with epoxy sealer then paint. epoxy isnt only for bare metal, i just sealed a 29 ford fiberglass body with DTM epoxy in the correct valueshade so the color would cover correctly. chip guard should go on after the sealer before the basecoat. you can get an undercoat gun with a long nozzle so you can get in the tight places.

I don't have a problem with color, everything is black. I have an 8" nozzle on my undercoat gun, do they come longer than that?

What about using Acrylic Enamel paint instead of base/clearcoat for the insides of the panels that won't be seen? Is it as durable as base/clearcoat? (Somebody gave me a gallon of it).

One last question, if you don't mind: If you spray basecoat, and don't clearcoat it (ending up with a matte finish), does it still seal?

Thanks!
- Sylvia

[QUOTE=>X<]the best way to finish aftermarket panels is with epoxy sealer then paint. epoxy isnt only for bare metal.

100%true

I want to try an epoxy called "Carboline" we have used it in chemical plants in highly corrosive areas.
mike

Since no one mentioned it, yes you have to scuff the black edp before spraying the primer/sealer.

The enamel isn't as good as a base/clear system. Some of us are old enough to remember having to wax enamel paint jobs. If you didn't wax, the metal underneath would rust.

And no you cant just leave it base only no clear. The base has nothing to protect itself with. As far as coatings go you could use Hammerite as its tougher than paint. Its made with ground glass and aluminum in a paint base. For the inner fender wells have those shot with bedliner and if it were to rust it would be from non lined side.

Since no one mentioned it, yes you have to scuff the black edp before spraying the primer/sealer.

The enamel isn't as good as a base/clear system. Some of us are old enough to remember having to wax enamel paint jobs. If you didn't wax, the metal underneath would rust.

Holy Meguires, am I that old already? ;)

I remember a particular shade of Pontiac Lemans green that, even if cared for, faded into a nice shade of puke. Most of them weren't cared for, then they'd become the same faded puke color but also with a surface like chalk.

Is 240 right for scuffing the black primer? I don't want to go through it.

-Thanks, Sylvia
(and thanks to BigDan3131 for the info, guess I'll get some bedliner)