Ran a 11.44 @ 117.69mph last night at the street legal drags, allmost got kicked off for no roll bar, but they ended up letting me run if I slowed it down.

:cong: What, no video? :D

slow down??? NEVER!!! Nice pass!

:cong: What, no video? :D


Wife and kids got me a Sony hard drive camcorder for father's day, but it didn't come in yet.:(

that is awsome...and street legal too!

Way to go!!!

Jim

Now to figure out a hidden roll bar.I read a mag article about a guy who went and ran all evening long at low 12's then on his last pass blew it out and ran like an 11.65.
BTW great run! What was your 60'?

I am extrememly curious. just how do you get the traction to dip into the 11's?

60' was 1.68, at the street legals they don't prep the track any, we waited 1.5hrs. to dry the track after a thunder storm went through just before we started.

My truck is 4-linked, I run 14.5x29 Hoosier QT Pros, My battery box is in the back, and a 20 gal fuel cell that I keep full.

Do you have any pics of the four link setup?????

That's an awesome 60' for a truck.Maybe you need to smooth your tailgate with lead to get alittle more traction.The 4 link must be working well.

I can't remember , do you run a tonneau cover ? Or no cover no tailgate ?
Somewhere i had pics of a '72 running at Seattle with an awesome rollbar setup . He had a Lexan rear window with cutouts for the bar. Very clean set up . Anyway nice pass . :) :)

I can't remember , do you run a tonneau cover ? Or no cover no tailgate ?
Somewhere i had pics of a '72 running at Seattle with an awesome rollbar setup . He had a Lexan rear window with cutouts for the bar. Very clean set up . Anyway nice pass . :) :)


Ya I run a cover, my rollbar is going to come out my back window, I have a slider and the guy that's doing it is going to bring it out the corners. He just did one, and cuts the holes, feeds the bar through then welds it up. I'll have it run through my cover also.

Do you have any pics of the four link setup?????

There's a few pics in this post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=151718&page=11

That's an awesome 60' for a truck.Maybe you need to smooth your tailgate with lead to get alittle more traction.The 4 link must be working well.

It was one of my better ones, every points race this year at the drag strip I run at has been rained out. So I haven't run this motor combo on a traction compound prepped track yet. I know that it folds my passenger side floormat in half, and I had to rig my ashtray so it doesn't open.

nice pass.. why wont they let you run any faster without a cage.. nhra alows for up to 10.01 secound runs.. by the way whats your truck way in at? just curious cause i am building my own drag truck.. here some pictures..

I don't even have a roll bar, so 11.50 is as fast as I can run, I'll be running in the 10's as soon as it's in. I keep wanting to weigh it, but haven't got around to it yet. Hope to do it this week, you have any pics of where your cage ties into your frame?

what kind of hp you laying down, im building a version of yours only im running a 9.5.1 com 496 roller motor. it should lay down 650 hp and have good steet manners. i don't like just going fast at the track i can't stand to get beet so i wanna have the stuff when ever i need it track or town, its no fun having a bad a$$ truck if you can't show it off every day.. don't get me wrong i love drag cars but im amazed at these 8 sec rockets putting around just wating to bust your you know what when you pass them on the way to wal-mart:) . a 200 shot should keep things even if i wan't to play a little at the track.. im thinking about a roll bar too but it shure would look ugly and give away the sleeper feel too.

Who sanctions your local track ? We're AHRA here in Spokane . I don't think there's many ahra tracks left . My mostly stock 68 runs 14.40's , it went almost 3 / 10th's quicker with the tailgate off . It needs to go on a diet as it weighs nearly 4000 lb. Oh well , any racing is good racing . :lol:

buy the way a buddy of mine had the trailing arm set up and went to the 4 link he gained one tenth but lost all of his ride and manners. so if you already got trailing arms i would say keep them. however if you got leafs by all means get the 4 link. most all racers will agree that the trailing arms are the best set up thats why nascar still uses them. drag cars may gain slightly with a link set up but if your running a street truck i would think you would kick your self hard if you ditched the trailing arms...

here is an idea make a light aluminum or steel frame to fit wher your tailgate was and then order a skin to rivit or weld to it looks the part but much lighter...

What do y'all run for a front end , tubular a-arms ? Or ? Lots of weight savings there . :)
Sorry not meaning to hi-jack, just curious :lol:

you from stoon or what dude? im from NB if your from stoon ill probably be taking my truck to SIR some time id love to see your truck

you from stoon or what dude? im from NB if your from stoon ill probably be taking my truck to SIR some time id love to see your truck


Stoon is where I race, SDRA member #277.:) Let me know when your going, I try to make it whenever I can.

Our track is NHRA.

As far as the 4-link goes, mine has poly bushings, and by setting my coil over spring rate and preload my ride is just as good if not better than stock.

Eventually tubular front arms will be going on.

nice pass

what kind of hp you laying down, im building a version of yours only im running a 9.5.1 com 496 roller motor. it should lay down 650 hp and have good steet manners. i don't like just going fast at the track i can't stand to get beet so i wanna have the stuff when ever i need it track or town, its no fun having a bad a$$ truck if you can't show it off every day.. don't get me wrong i love drag cars but im amazed at these 8 sec rockets putting around just wating to bust your you know what when you pass them on the way to wal-mart:) . a 200 shot should keep things even if i wan't to play a little at the track.. im thinking about a roll bar too but it shure would look ugly and give away the sleeper feel too.


I run a solid roller 489 BB, it dynoed at 640HP, 620trq. with a too small 750 carb. I now run a 850 Mighty Demon and have a NOS Cheater system. In ran a 11.72@115 with a 1.72 60' at the last street drags on motor spinning a bit at the start. My coil over springs were a bit too light and I was bottoming out when I launched causing it to bounce. It was hard to get a good run in the other night after the rain it was hot and muggy, I was running 12.01 and not impressed. On the 11.44 I ran a 100shot in second and drive, it was the first time the motor saw nitrous so I ran it rich and backed out some extra timing so I was not expecting that large of a gain. Well low and behold it hooked good and ran a little quicker than planned.

I'm pretty sure on a regular race day I would be around the 11.5's to 11.6's on motor. So I'm thinking 10's on a 150 shot should be a reasonable expectation. I too would like to keep the stock appearance, but a roll bar is a must. The truck will all-ways be street legal, but I don't drive it that much and racing gives ME more enjoyment than cruising, so not that worried about the 2 bars going out the back window.

nice pass

Hey Jim, since they forgot to send me my NHRA rule book last 2 times I ordered parts. Would you happen to know the rule on tranny and flex plate shields?

By the way Thanks guy's.

Monty.

thats fast

Another thing to keep in mind with his truck is that it would even faster closer to see level. What is the altitude in Sask?

Another thing to keep in mind with his truck is that it would even faster closer to see level. What is the altitude in Sask?

Not too bad, little over 2000 I think? Hoping to make it to Medicine Hat next weekend, they have a new concrete launch pad it's suppose to have bite.

10.00 and below need sfi sheilds, unless the firewall is not stock. 10.99 and below you need aftermarket axels/or C clip eliminators. 11.49 to 10.00 need a 5 point roll bar and sfi fire jacket.

Here is the online rule book
http://members.tripod.com/MY5LTR/NHRArules.html

Thank's Jim.

2000 ft is pretty substantial though. According to NHRA's website at sea level you would be running 11.17 @ 120.52 at sea level. This is not really important at your track because obviously everybody is at the same disadvantage. It's just cool to see what would run at a track like Montgomery Motorsports Park or Silver Dollar in Georgia because they are only 400-500 ft. Here is the NHRA's conversion chart if you want to check it out.

http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/nhra_correction_factors.php

My brother's '78 GMC has run a best of a 11.98 @ 112.11 (7.58 @ 92.86 in 1/8) with a 1.71 60' on motor with much less engine than you have. We'd only be in the mid 12's at your track. Here is link to his truck if you wnat to check it out also. http://www.bassettracing.cz28.com/photo2.html

Man! 71Dragtruck you and 57sailplane have big boy trucks. Good job on the run.

2000 ft is pretty substantial though. According to NHRA's website at sea level you would be running 11.17 @ 120.52 at sea level. This is not really important at your track because obviously everybody is at the same disadvantage. It's just cool to see what would run at a track like Montgomery Motorsports Park or Silver Dollar in Georgia because they are only 400-500 ft. Here is the NHRA's conversion chart if you want to check it out.

http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/nhra_correction_factors.php

My brother's '78 GMC has run a best of a 11.98 @ 112.11 (7.58 @ 92.86 in 1/8) with a 1.71 60' on motor with much less engine than you have. We'd only be in the mid 12's at your track. Here is link to his truck if you wnat to check it out also. http://www.bassettracing.cz28.com/photo2.html


Nice truck your brother has there, I'm allways interested in checking out other drag trucks. Would be nice to make a couple of passes at a near sea level track. But it is cool when you line up against a 440 procharged Challenger, stripped interior, roll bar, open headers etc. and then the look you get when you beat him, PRICELESS. Icing on the cake is when he asks later how big a shot your running and you tell him that was just motor.:lol:

10.00 and below need sfi sheilds, unless the firewall is not stock. 10.99 and below you need aftermarket axels/or C clip eliminators. 11.49 to 10.00 need a 5 point roll bar and sfi fire jacket.

Here is the online rule book
http://members.tripod.com/MY5LTR/NHRArules.html

Which rule would apply, they have 2 different rules, or has it to do with stock floor boards.

Under general:


2.14 TRANSMISSION, AUTOMATIC

Any non-OEM floor-mounted automatic transmission shifter must be equipped with a spring loaded positive reverse lockout device to prevent the shifter from accidentally being put into reverse gear. Functional neutral safety switch mandatory. All transmission lines must be metallic or high-pressure-type hose. All vehicles running quicker than 9.99 seconds (*6.39) or faster than 135 mph (217.2 km/h) and using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 and labeled accordingly. "Blanket" type shield, appropriately labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1 permitted. All non blanket type shields must incorporate two (or one, per manufacturer's instructions) 3/4-inch (19.1 mm) x 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) straps that bolt to the shield on each side, and pass under the transmission pan, or transmission pan must be labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Permitted in all classes where an automatic transmission is used. 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker ET cars, and 135 mph (217.2 km/h) or faster ET cars using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a flexplate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and covered by a flexplate shield meeting SFI Spec 30.1. Air shifter bottles must be stamped with DOT -1800 pound (124 bar) rating (minimum) and be securely mounted (i.e. no tie-wraps or hose clamps.)


Or would it be this?

Under SECTION 1A
E.T. SUPER PRO, PRO, SPORTSMAN

7.50 (*4.50) seconds or slower:


2.4 TRANSMISSION, Automatic

Spring-loaded, positive reverse lockout device and functional neutral safety switch mandatory. Transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 mandatory on any car running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h). Automatic transmission flex plate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and flex plate shield meeting SFI Spec 30.1 mandatory on cars running 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h). See General Regulations 2.14.

hey 71 drag truck here are some pictures of the cage welded to frame underneath cab. if you need anything else let me know.

Thank's, that's a serious cage you got going there, you must be planning on some 9's.

yes i would be happy with low 9's since i am running a sbc 383 with nos. my combo might not be as large as yours but i hope it will go the distance.. i built it expecially for nos.. cam pistons and even heads were ported profesionally for nos.. anyways the weight thing is what i am looking at now. thats why i was wandering what your truck weighed.. anyways keep us posted on what your doing cause alot of us wish we were racing...

You guys make me miss my old stock weekend warrior, ran a whopping
9.556 in the 1/8 on wore out Hoosier quicktime tires, btw mine weighed
in at 3,400 lbs, no inner fenders, and no tailgate, and full bench seat ;)

Which rule would apply, they have 2 different rules, or has it to do with stock floor boards.

Under general:


2.14 TRANSMISSION, AUTOMATIC

Any non-OEM floor-mounted automatic transmission shifter must be equipped with a spring loaded positive reverse lockout device to prevent the shifter from accidentally being put into reverse gear. Functional neutral safety switch mandatory. All transmission lines must be metallic or high-pressure-type hose. All vehicles running quicker than 9.99 seconds (*6.39) or faster than 135 mph (217.2 km/h) and using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 and labeled accordingly. "Blanket" type shield, appropriately labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1 permitted. All non blanket type shields must incorporate two (or one, per manufacturer's instructions) 3/4-inch (19.1 mm) x 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) straps that bolt to the shield on each side, and pass under the transmission pan, or transmission pan must be labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Permitted in all classes where an automatic transmission is used. 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker ET cars, and 135 mph (217.2 km/h) or faster ET cars using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a flexplate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and covered by a flexplate shield meeting SFI Spec 30.1. Air shifter bottles must be stamped with DOT -1800 pound (124 bar) rating (minimum) and be securely mounted (i.e. no tie-wraps or hose clamps.)


Or would it be this?

Under SECTION 1A
E.T. SUPER PRO, PRO, SPORTSMAN

7.50 (*4.50) seconds or slower:


2.4 TRANSMISSION, Automatic

Spring-loaded, positive reverse lockout device and functional neutral safety switch mandatory. Transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 mandatory on any car running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h). Automatic transmission flex plate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and flex plate shield meeting SFI Spec 30.1 mandatory on cars running 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h). See General Regulations 2.14.


You know I don't know. I'm running 10.20's on N20 and they haven't said anything about a trans shield. 10.99 on motor alone so I better find out b4 I go to a real track. My track is 550' above sea level but the DA is always over 4000'

I know I could get into the 9s but I'm not licenced or the truck isn't speced to run below 10.00

What's yours weigh again, and are launching on a trans brake? I'd love to be running 10's on motor, doubt I'll ever run as fast as you. I,d have to lighten it up for sure, or go to a 540 next re-build, just need the block and pistons.

Do you have a DA chart, or how do you figure that?

3500 wit my fat azz. I leave on a brake chipped at 4000rpm with a 5500 stall. 4.86 gears with 32x14-15 slicks. Im swappin converters this week. Going with a 8" ATI instead of the 300 dollar Torco. I'll see if it picks up as much as I think. In bracket mode I leave easier and short shift and run 11.33 at 115. It just dosen't MPH good at all. I will be going BBC next year.

http://imagehost.bizhat.com/users_thumb/6169/thumb_dv_scott.jpg (http://imagehost.bizhat.com/show.php?id=203011)

what you going through the traps at? Motor and with nitrous, I was going to go to a 31" tall tire and a 4.30 gear. I have a 29" and 4.10's now, go through at just under 6000? ( have to run on a better night to make sure ). When I ran 28" tires it was going through at 6200. I'd like to take off 200lbs. to make up for my fat azz LOL.

7200 rpm at 125mph The converter is too loose for N20

7200 rpm at 125mph The converter is too loose for N20

That's BADAZZ, you have to get some video for us.

Nice truck your brother has there, I'm allways interested in checking out other drag trucks. Would be nice to make a couple of passes at a near sea level track. But it is cool when you line up against a 440 procharged Challenger, stripped interior, roll bar, open headers etc. and then the look you get when you beat him, PRICELESS. Icing on the cake is when he asks later how big a shot your running and you tell him that was just motor.:lol:

Thanks. No matter how many times I see it, it is PRICELESS to watch this ol' truck sneak up on some unsuspecting Mustang or Camaro. My brother drives this truck around town a good bit, and lot of people who haven't seen it run just assumes since it street driven that it isn't really fast.

We are planning on a cage in future for his truck, because with the cheater shot, he is creeping up on high 10's. We are going to freshen up the engine this fall, and probably go with a solid roller. Here are a few old scanned pics when we built the truck. It was STUPID FUN driving it around with the front clip and bed off!!

When I take her to the track she really shines
She always turns in the fastest times
My four speed dual quad posi-traction 409

hey bigjimzlll i noticed you a said somthing about a bigblock next year. what you runin now? did you remove the radiator suport to get her down to 3500lbs? by the way this is a bad a## thread..

ttt

I didn't remove it..but I did make it lighter. The engine is a 13-1 406.

what are you guys runing for rear ends.. i have a 12 bolt in mine.. i hear there not as strong as the car 12 bolt which confuses me cause i would think a truck 12 bolt would be stronger. of course i am going to beef up whatever i build.. i can get a ford nine inch (wichever one i want) real cheap hear at a local junk yard.. what do you quys sugest. i have not had my engine dynoed but am shooting for 550 hp to 600hp on the motor and 900 on nos.. as i said before i built this thing for nos and have done my home work.. anyways what do you guys think or what are you runin..

I run a truck 12 bolt right now, Eaton posi, Moser 30 spline axles, Richmond gears, LPW braced cover, welded tubes. I'm planning on going to a narrowed Moser 9" with a Detroit locker and 35 spline axles, disc brakes.

What I don't like about the truck 12 bolt, is I don't want to run a spool, and you can't get a posi carrier for anything larger then a 30 spline axle.

I used to run a truck 12 bolt...spun the axel tubes then rebuilt it as strong as possible. Worked fine but I went to a 9". If you have a true 600HP than high 10s should be possible if you have the right converter and gearing.

600hp at a total weight of 3500# for him to run high 10's ?

When I take her to the track she really shines
She always turns in the fastest times
My four speed dual quad posi-traction 409 Now that's my kinda comment . :lol:

600hp at a total weight of 3500# for him to run high 10's ?

This calculator is for engine HP. it says 10.49.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

how about 3000lbs 850 hp.. 8.87 sec now were talking...
hmmmm.... fiberglass front end and doors mayby? but how steetable? hmmmmm... hmmmm....

Jim, what have you done to get your truck down to 3500 w/you in it? I have a 66' Chevy lwb that I run, and it weighs 3820 w/me and 8 gal. of fuel. I run the lightweight seats, no heater box or wipers, alum. headed sbc, and a bolt-on 'glass cowl hood. I haven't changed anything like control arms or the like, basically because it's not in the budget right now. It still has the factory inner fenders because the hood hinges bolt to them. It's cool to see some other guys draggin' these old trucks!!

If you go back a page or 2, I posted a link to pics of my 4-link. There also is some pics of Jim's setup, and it looks like he just used the outer skins of his box to build the bed. Looks fast sitting still, I'm sure he'll respond, I just wanted to comment that he for sure has taken it to the next level of drag truck building.

Thanks for the reply! I did see a pic of Jim's truck on a pg. or two back, but all I saw was an outside view of it. It does look good, as well as does yours. I saw a pic of yours on another thread. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only guy tryin' to get a long wheelbase, nose-heavy pickup to 60-ft. respectably!:lol:

I guess I should have looked closer, pretty sure I saw some pics of the inside of his box some where on here?

heres some..I lost atleast 200lbs with stripping the bed and tailgate skin. I cut the front frame horns off as close to the steering box as I could. Disc breaks instead of drums. fiberglass hood and roll pan. aluminum heads and radiator. Aluminum electric water pump and ofcourse any thing not absolutley needed is gone.

http://imagehost.bizhat.com/users_thumb/6169/thumb_dsc00543.jpg (http://imagehost.bizhat.com/show.php?id=171997)

http://imagehost.bizhat.com/users_thumb/6169/thumb_dsc00546.jpg (http://imagehost.bizhat.com/show.php?id=171998)

http://imagehost.bizhat.com/users_thumb/6169/thumb_dsc00521.jpg (http://imagehost.bizhat.com/show.php?id=143701)

Hey Jim, thanks for the reply and the pics! You've really done a lot of work to your truck. I would imagine between the bed and the rear frame, there's a lot of weight gone! BTW, nice lookin' mill under the hood! Seein' your dzus tabs on your fenders reminds me of the pin-on hood that used to be on my truck. I ran it for about a year until I finally got tired of having to get the wife to help remove the hood every time I needed to work on it! I finally decided to put a bolt-on hood back on it, even though it was a little heavier.
How much of a difference is there between your ladder bar setup and the trailing arm setup? Or did you run the truck with the trailing arms? I still have trailing arms under mine, although I did put an anti-roll bar back there along with some Rancho adjustable shocks. My truck has cut a 1.55 60' on the motor so far, and that was with a 30 x 12.5 ET Street. I have since put some 31 x 14.5 ET Streets on it, and hopefully I'll see an improvement with them. Thanks again for the info...

I went with the ladder bars for adjustability. The trailing arms work great but since I was changing rears and narrowing it, the ladder bars were easier. I have 60' with trailing arms 1.59 and with the lighter truck with ladder bars 1.48.

71dragtruck glad to see you have got the truck back on the track! I have been in new trailer (28ft enclosed) and tow truck mode so I haven't been to the track in a while! I did the unthinkable and bought a Furd Tow truck but it seemed like a steal its a 99 f350 crewcab short bed single wheel powerstroke and I only paid 10k for it! I think I hurt the convertor when I sprayed my truck so I have to send it off and have it redone! I also found out the truck weighed much more than I thought. Its 3286 with me in it!

I was wondering what happend to you, been waiting for you to post up some 8-9 sec. nitrous passes. I also bought my first Furd this year ( hang my head in shame ) but I needed a tow viehicle that could handle the weight, and new Chevy's don't cut it stock. Hope you get back on the track soon, lot's of drag race guy's are following your build. Mine suppose to go in for a roll bar this month, have my belts, tranny shield, just waiting on my seats and then taking it to the 10's.

I haven't made a 1/4 mile nos pass yet but I did go 6.05 with the wrong convertor I hope to improve that soon. My best motor pass so far is a 6.53!

Tow vehicles????? I drive mine daily on the street...I do get some extreme looks though. That's whats nice about double adjustable rear shocks...set them loose and it rides like a cadillac...turn them up at the track and your good to go.

On a side note...I found some race shocks for the front(fits stock mounts and locations) Qa1 rc 1574p is the number. Summit number is HAL-rc1574p...very very nice and adjustable

I saw those front shocks, if you try them out let us know how they work. I think I'm going to break down and get some QA-1's for the back and get rid of the non-adjustable. What length you running on the back, and what rate spring did you have before skinning your box, or what were you running then, I can't remember what you had with your stock arms.

As far as tow vehicles go, closest track is 2.5hrs. trailer is cheaper in the long run with the price of C12 and supreme.:lol: The truck plays double duty for work, well I admit it's over kill for what I do.;)

Right now I have 14" Aldan DA shocks with 150lb springs. I might be a tad over sprung. I had 120lb on with non adjsutables and it worked well. Never had coilovers with the old set up.

Time less than 11:50 requires a roll bar sysetm? Is a nice et for a pickup. Good luck with future drags.........

wondering if u drag guys can help me out a little..
my truck will be mainly street driven, so i wanna keep the stock swing arm suspension. but I am debating putting a 6-71 on my 454... it's only a 2 bolt main, what kind of hp can I put to it with a cast crank in it?.. i'm new to the bbc world, and want to go faster then the 350's i'm too familiar with. or should I just stick with a carburated high compression engine. will it even hook up with 295 radials? or should i look at a different set up..
high 12's kinda speed is good enough for me..

the thought of a nice polished mailbox sticking out of my hood gets me thinking though...!

A tow vehice might be cheaper than the 116 octane fuel I run! I want to be able to travel and race out of town!


A good set of coilover shocks with the trailing arm and a drag radial should be good for traction! I don't know much about the 6-71! The huffer would be sexy sticking out the hood!