OK I'm finally going to get to build a truck:metal: I have started on a shorty 67 small window fleetside. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to tell the story of the truck.I started with a truck that was given to me by the old man across the street from me and my wife. Frank lived across the street from me my entire life, he was a good man always help the neighborhood kids with their bikes and as we got a little older lawn movers.I how loads of memories of he and I tinkering with stuff in his driveway. Frank was like a second grandpa to me and I can remember riding in this truck when I was 3 years old.He couldn't read or write, but could fix anything. He was diagnosed with Alzthiemers(sp) 4 years ago at the age of 85 and it quickly progressed and his mind was lost:whine: Became very mean and had to be put in a specialized care facility, so they could handle as his wife was in no shape to really be able to help him with the day to day stuff. Then about 2 years ago when he was getting very close to the end his wife signed the truck over to me, now I know it was free, but it wasn't much to look at and was in need of a total frame off restoration to get it up to par again, and the only thing salvageable was the frame,with some work(see pics).None of his kids wanted the truck, and I had always liked it from way back when.
So that is how it got the name of project "Frank"

Now onto the truck itself...

I have started on it and gotten a little done to it. I got it to run after sitting for about 5 years to get it into the garage from the barn in the back of the property for teardown. Couldn't believe it started:crazy: I have tore it down completely and gotten down to just a bare frame. Ground and wire brushed and cleaned up the frame as best as I could without blasting it and have coated the frame, front crossmember, and rear end with Eastwoods two part rust converter, and will most likely paint the rear end and front crossmember today with the rust encapsulator and then high gloss chassis black. The frame still needs to be flipped back over so I can two part the top of the rails and finish on the inside, getting it ready for rust encapsulator and the high gloss chassis black. While cleaning the frame found some serious rust in the rear spring perches and a small hole in the drivers side of the frame(has been fixed) but still trying to get a good set of perches to finish the rear up. Before I started on the truck I built a tip and flip dolly from LFD and got a replacement small window cab from billsbotie and had it blasted and primered waiting on patch panels to start cutting on it.
The cab will need A LOT of work as there was much hidden under the paint:rolleyes: as usual. I ordered all the sheet metal needed for the truck and picked it up yesterday form Bob Hook Cheverolet here in Louisville, Goodmark dealer(No shipping cost:metal: ) I got both bedsides, both front 67 fenders, rad support, front bed panel, wheelhouses,hood and every patche they make for the cab except the inner roof(only really clean spot on the cab. I think I got a great deal on the sheetmetal, it was about $2200 for everything.

The truck is going to be a nice driver for me to run around in.I'm thinking I will paint it black(not sure), will have a 350/200r4/3:07 open rear.I am lowering it 3.5" in the front and 5" in the rear, to hopefully level the truck out.I will be doing alot of little stuff to it, like shaving the firewall on the passenger side for vintage air, shaving the gas filler, move the fuel tank to the rear of the truck(ordered and fuel cell form the fuel cell guy:c2: ) I will post progress as I move along, and now for some pics,

More pics

last set of pics for now....

Cool:metal: . Wish my garage was bigger so I could do another truck:rolleyes: Keep the pics rolling Randy!:cool:

I`m impressed with your story.Ilove this stuff.I will enjoy watching you bring "Frank the truck" back to it`s full glory.I only hope I can leave or have left such an impression on a youngin or two.There are a couple guys from my childhood that I can say planted seeds in my tinkering life,including my dad.When I`m real old I hope I have a few "Sidekicks" around.

Thanks K...I wish my dad was into this stuff,but he would rather play golf.. he used to be nicknamed Mr Goodwrench cause everything he touched ended up needing to go and see a real Mr. Goodwrench :) I got the wrenching fromy Grandpa and Frank of couse, so I'm sure you will be passing the bug on to some yougins as well.

Right on Randy - it's going to be great to get to follow your project. Keep us updated... love progress pics!!!

Gonna be sweet!!! I will be watching "Frank". Drop chose sounds awesome! Take your time and do it right! Good Luck!!!

Alex

Got a little more done today, rust encapsulated and painted the rear end, trailing arms and the fromt crossmember. Got the frame flipped ( dam that thing is heavy:no: ) and the rest of the frame 2 part rust comverted hopefully to rust encapsulate and paint the top, and part of the inside of the frame tomorrow, weather permitting. Then let it dry 24-36 hours and flip is back over:whine: and rust encapsulate amd paint the bottom and the rest of the inside of the frame. Here's a few pics of today progress..:fb:

in the last pic I have mocked up the tranny crossmember, but am unsure if it is in the right location? and the right orentation as well? I will be installing a 700r4 and wanting to make sure it is in the right spot before I paint the frame, any help is greatly appreciated, Randy

Here is a pic of the wheels and tires I got off my parts truck that I will be useing at least for a while but wanted to know what they are. If anybody knows please speak up!!:help:

Cool:metal: . Wish my garage was bigger so I could do another truck:rolleyes: Keep the pics rolling Randy!:cool:

A-men, and looking very good so far :metal:

randy great post..sorry i couldn`t help on the perches, good luck on the truck i bet its going to be one nice truck!!!
keep us posted.

I think that's a great story and it needed to be told. I's more fun to work on something that has a special meaning. Will be watching for updates.
I don't know about the rims, but let me know if you go to get rid of them. I like them!

Always nice to know the history behind a vehicle.

Wheel look similar to some of the ones you see off corvette's? Even the emblem on the spinner looks "corvetty"

MDC, I really like them too they look good and kinda in line with the era of the truck, and the best part, it looks like they are 15x8 front and 15x10 in the rear


69 hafton thatt is what I thought, but after checking into it,I don't think they are the spacing of the holes(too many holes maybe) looks off to me, but who know's???

I thought they looked like the 80-ish Vette wheels,but see they are just simular.And,nice.Especially since they are 8s & 10s.Keep me in mind after MDC if andwhen the time comes to sell.Definately will look great on your truck.

It sounds like Frank was a hell of a guy. It's good to hear your keeping his spirit alive and building a truck that he would appreciate. Keep us posted...:)

It seems like more and more 67's are turning up.... could it be they were the coolest chevy truck ever built? ;)

My truck has a lot of "goodmark" in her too. I was able to pick mine up at THE goodmark distributor in lawerenceville Ga, about 2 hours from greenville :)

Thanks guys, has anybody been able to determine if I have the tranny crossmember in the correct location for a 700r4? (see last pic above of frame)It is mounted in the second set of holes from the engine area. The holes lined right up and all but I really wanted to be sure before I paint it. TIA Randy

It seems like more and more 67's are turning up.... could it be they were the coolest chevy truck ever built? The styling of the 67-68 is classic. Harry Bentley Bradley out did himself with this one...:)

Nice build thread. I can't wait to tear down my 68 and start it. Good luck and keep us updated.

Thanks guys, has anybody been able to determine if I have the tranny crossmember in the correct location for a 700r4? (see last pic above of frame)It is mounted in the second set of holes from the engine area. The holes lined right up and all but I really wanted to be sure before I paint it. TIA Randy


I can't tell you that for sure as I think 700R4's varied slightly from model to model.

I CAN tell you that on my truck, which was a 67 swb like yours with a one piece driveshaft, I had the 350 in the correct V-8 position and with the 700R4 behind it (out of an 83 firebird) that I had to move my crossmember so that the front holes in the crossmember lined up with the rear holes in the frame and I had to drill out the back holes in the frame (if that makes sense to you?). I know it would suck, but the best thing to do may be to test fit your engine and tranny.

BUT if you're just going to rust encapsulate the whole frame you can go back and touch it up later.

Thanks 67 chevyredneck, Yeah I did the whole thing so it wouldn't be hard to touch up. I will be putting the engine and tranny in in a couple off weeks and will just have to T&E.
Got a little more done today, got the frame off the tables I have it on and got it on some car dolly's got it outside and sprayed the frame sides, and top. Rand out of paint and and needing some more parts to come in before I can move on with the chassis.
I will most likely turn my attention to getting the engine cleaned stripped and ready to paint.I have the por15 trial kit which is enough to paint the engine with, but is that OK? or will the motor get too hot? I also have to drop the tranny off at a local shop near my house to have it rebuilt and updated, so that hopefully when I'm ready to trial fit it all I will have it all ready and waiting on me. Couple pics of the frame painted.

Hey nice progress! I wish I had my garage cleaned up so I can get out there and do the same with mine. Keep us posted. Hey three day weekend good time to get it organized.

I wish I could, the shop is not mine:whine: so don't hold it against me:o The shop is my mom and step dads place, and have been generous enough to let me build my truck there.:metal:I really hate the mess, but the shop has evey tool I need and several I don't:lol: and that makes up for it I guess. Although you can see I have several things in there too, but most will dissappear once I have the chassis rolling and get it out to the barn to work the cab over.

Here is a pic of the wheels and tires I got off my parts truck that I will be useing at least for a while but wanted to know what they are. If anybody knows please speak up!!:help:

Those wheels look like Speed Racers wheels!!!!
Remember those?

very nice byrd i wish i had the space and money to do one like that

OK , finally made some head way..... Got a set of replacement spring perches from Burnsman(thanks again Brian:metal: ) and got the rivets popped out,cleaned up and two part rust converted. Got 1/2"x1" long Stainless grade 8 bolts with stainless flat washers and stainless fiber locks nuts. Drilled the perches and the frame out to accomodate the larger bolts and bolted the perches on. Then got the rest of the frame wiped down with pre clean and shot the Eastwoods rust encapsulator on the bottom and part of the sides of the frame I didn't get when I painted the other side. Then on to painting the same parts of the frame and shoved it back into the garage to dry for a day or two and then hopefully will have the rolling chassis close to being together by th end of next weekend. The frame looks pretty good,eventhough you can see brush marks from where I brushed the two part converter on.Notice my wheel dolly rollers:lol: rolls around great and high up enough to paint, fairly comfortably. The trusty cherry picker and a shart tow strap has been used to move the frame to the floor from the table stands I had it on and also to flip the frame over once it's dry to start assembling the suspension. Here are a couple of pics.. the last two showing the before and after shots of the bad spot in the frame on the DS that was repaired.

in the last pic I have mocked up the tranny crossmember, but am unsure if it is in the right location? and the right orentation as well? I will be installing a 700r4 and wanting to make sure it is in the right spot before I paint the frame, any help is greatly appreciated, Randy

This is the best picture I could find of our crossmember. We didn't even attempt to fit ours without the engine and transmission. We found that a few of the holes were close, but still at least half off. So we ended up drilling two mounting holes in the flanges fairly close together (top and bottom, left and right) to mount ours in. Then we filled most of the other holes in the frame to make it look better.

Before we got this crossmember, we tried a stock automatic crossmember and found it fit just as badly.

So I would say, expect to move it!!!

nice looking job you've done so far its gonna be a very nice machine when its done, by the way what are you going to do with those 6 hole mag slots that was on the rear when you got it???

Looks like it's gonna be a beauty when you're done.:D

just finisched reading this threat..... great buildup keep it up .
back on the rims though : they look like the type of rims you see on stockcars dunno if there steel ones though
if they are used in stockcarracing the boldholes should be drilled to big for the axle you have them on (they need to use bigger bolts for racing acording to the rules )

Progress of any type is better than none at all ;)

More prgress, got the rear end under the frame and mocked up the rear suspention, got the front x-member bolted in and the front suspention ( 2" drop spindles and 1" drop springs) all bolted up. Started to mock up the brakes lines, but the stainless prebent ones I got from the truck shop don't seem to be right? Looks as if they will need to be corrected in a few spots, and I have all stainless retainers for the lines. Got the fuel line sorta in place to what I will need to add to it to reach the fuel cell( on order should be here in a week or two) from the Fuelcell guy:bling: Anyway tomorrow try to get the rear suspention all buttoned up try to get a little further on the brake lines. I seem to be missing a bracket on the rear end where the flexible line connects to where the two brake lines split to get to each wheel. If anybod has one laying around I would like to get it from, PM if you have one. Couple of pics.

lil pup I am most likly going to sell them. I have the two 10 rears that you seen in the pic on the truck and I have one front 6 or 6.5" wide 6 lug. Not sure what they are worth but shipping would be costly I would assume. Rany

Great build up! I am getting ready to start on my 68 GMC build up. I like the 10" slots on the old rear too. Shoot me a price on them if you don't mind. Are the tires any good? What size are they? Keep up the good work. It gave me some motivation to get going on mine......Thanks.

Update,
Got all the front and rear suspension bolted in and torqued down to factory specs. I also got the brakes lines, and the front part of the fuel line in and strapped into place, I still need to tweak the rear lines and add a strap near the hoghead. I have ordered a 6' piece of stainless for the fuel line to get back to the fuel cell.I got the lines for the truck shop and used stianless straps and button head stainles screws from inlinetube to hold the lines in place, Had to drill and tap each strap ,but I think the overall was worth the extra effort:bling: . I also got the front sway bar installed, and have started getting the steering together so it will soon be mobile. I dropped the motor off at a local machine shop for them to rebuild it to stock specs, $1150, still cheaper tan the cheapest crate motor and this shop has A LOT better reputation than the crate motors have. I will be dropping the tranny(700r4) off tomorrow at a local shop to have them buiild and update it for my truck should cost about $750.Here are a few pics...

Today I get the 700r4 out of my garage that I got from bisquick only to find the tranny is damaged beyond all repair:no: I believe it was dropped off of a two story building during shipping:crazy: It was my fault as I didn't unwrap it when they delivered it, I will know better next time:o The case was almost completly broke in half and just not worth messing with now, $300 down the drain:whine: So I got on the net and called Bowtie overdrives up and ordered a level 1 200r4, 1800 rpm converter,cooling lines, tv kit, install kit with trans temp gauge, converter lock-up kit, and mounting pad for custom x member. All totaled with shipping set me back about $1750, but at least I've got all the parts and a good name tranny. Should be here in about 3 weeks, and hopefully the motor will be about a week ahead of it to get it painted and ready for the tranny.

Today I get the 700r4 out of my garage that I got from bisquick only to find the tranny is damaged beyond all repair:no: I believe it was dropped off of a two story building during shipping:crazy: It was my fault as I didn't unwrap it when they delivered it, I will know better next time:o The case was almost completly broke in half and just not worth messing with now, $300 down the drain:whine: So I got on the net and called Bowtie overdrives up and ordered a level 1 200r4, 1800 rpm converter,cooling lines, tv kit, install kit with trans temp gauge, converter lock-up kit, and mounting pad for custom x member. All totaled with shipping set me back about $1750, but at least I've got all the parts and a good name tranny. Should be here in about 3 weeks, and hopefully the motor will be about a week ahead of it to get it painted and ready for the tranny.

BYRD

I just installed the BO TV made EZ and the TC lock-up kits. Only drove it 4 miles (truck isn't "legal" yet) but the tranny felt very responsive and shifted nicely.

Couple things they don't tell you in the instructions (I called them on the first item and I got the second item from a classic trucks mag article from 2004)

1.) In the instructions for the lock-up kit they tell you to remove all wiring and install the 4th gear pressure switch, but in the pictures it looks like all of the other "ports" (where the other pressure switches are) looked empty. I called them and their "tech support" people said to leave any plug or pressure switch in place and only swap out the 4th gear switch. Depending on the 700R4 they give you it could have as few as 2 switches and 2 metal plugs, or 4 switches with lots of wiring.

2.) A quick tip to set up the TV cable properly is to leave the tranny pan off, hook it up (after you intall the spring in the little TV body in the trans) and set it up so that the plunger is just touching the valve body when it is fully extended. SO that when you touch the throttle at all the valve body should move in instantly. It should be FULLY extended at idle/no throttle.

Hope that helps. If you already knew that stuff.... then maybe it will help someone else :)

Thanks for the tips:metal: I will be using their tranny(already internally wired for the tclu) I had to get the TV install kit to give them the pressure readings, and temp readings for the warranty. I will be using your tips I'm sure, but not for a long while yet:rolleyes:

Great story and great project!!! I would love to be as far along as you!!:( :(

Byrd you are flying on this build up. very nicely done so far i can't wait to see the motor and trans in

Byrd hows it hangin...just got marride bud...new rides a comin hey...keep it goin...just letting every one know lookin for a small back window half ton...for My new baby...I'm sure your ride will be sweet

Byrd - Picture #2 on post 38 shows the front sway bar. From the angle showing it looks to me that the sway bar is upside down. I believe the dip in the bar should go down. On my 3//4 T (very original) the bar dips down. The facory assembly manual shows the bar dips down. I know it fits your way - did you do that for improved performance? Years ago I had a Mazda RX2 used for Solo that put a spacer between the bar and frame to change the angle and preload the sway bar for stiffer action.

Your project is great by the way. Just wish mine were at the same level of completion.

Great build up! It should be very driveable and a cool little ride!
NOTE: Thanks for respecting the previous owner. I see so many guys bragging about screwing/stealing these trucks from the older owners or their widows. It is nice to see some honor for those who owned these trucks originally.

Bobmoore, you are right is it on upside down:crazy: I figured that one out after trying to install the steering linkage. With the motor no being in there to weigh down the front it was pretty hard to install and it just seemed to fit better this way which I know now is wrong:lol: I will flip it over and get the rest of the steering together most likley tuesday or so.


I got word from the Mark (FCG) that my fuel cell will be here late this week or first of next so I will have a little to do while I wait on the motor and tranny.

Thanks for sharing... this is truly an awesome thread. I too will be posting the efforts as my sons an I work through the restoration of a 69 C10.

Your photo story is really an inspiration....!!! :phat:

Morigeau

cool:metal:

My fuel cell came in today from FCG and it looks sweet!! I am excited to get it installed tomorrow and hopefully the rest of the stainless E-brake cables, stainless fuel and brakes lines, with a new bender will come in tomorrow just in time for the weekend:metal: I did get a few other things finished up, like the sway bar flipped over and now properly installed:lol: , steering linkage in place, adjustable rear track bar painted, installed and torqued down.

I haven't been able to find the torque specs in the u-bolts for the lower control arms and the torque spec for the 4 nuts that hold the upper control arms on. They are the only pieces of the suspension that isn't torqued down yet, and if anybody knows what they should be set at I would appreciate the help. Pic of the fuel cell for now and hopefully a few pics of it installed tomorrow or Saturday.

Got a little further this weekend:) I finished up the install of the fuel cell and bent up a piece of 3/8" stainless line to reach the cell and a 8-10" piece of fuel hose to get to the supply side. I went out to the barn and brought up my supernice metal floor I picked up about a year ago now for jtmiller, a fellow member. I made a another trip and got the bedsides and the
front panel brought up to the shop for some trial fitting and to work out the feul filler details. I went to the local hardware store and picked up a bunch of 3/8" and 5/16" carriage bolts, nuts, and washers to use for trial fitting, I will be using polished stainless button heads bolts for the final product. THe pieces went together fairly well, but I do have work still to do as I could get 3 or 4 of the bolts in. The PS bedside is absolutely perfect dead on, but the DS is the one that needs the tweeking, but over all the Goodmark parts are a nice fit. I haven't squared the bed or anything yet just go as many bolts as I could in it, and it measures off about a 1/2" cross corners, but from side to side it is really close a little tweaking and it will fit really nicely.

I will be useing the stake pocket fill like John Frabris's FAQ and have got the filler cap ordered and will try to get it worked out this week sometime.I gave it a glance today and it looks like it may be a little easier for me because of where my filler inlet in the tank is. It is alot closer to the rear of the truck than the blazer tank and should have almost no bend in it from the stake pocket to the tank inlet.

In the last pic I put a small red circle around what is not really visible but it is the center seat from a set of buddy buckets:c2: I got them from gmcjon a member in kansas. He was kind enough to get the seat up to teeitups house for another fellow member Huck who was on his way back from vacation and lives about an hour from me picked the seat up for me and brought it on home.What A GUY:metal: I went out and picked the seat up Saturday morning and I'm very pleased with the seats and will look great in the truck at some point:rolleyes: They were already apart for shipping and double wrapped in heavy plastic by gmcjon, (THANK YOU!! for doing that the seats made it without a scratch) so I don't have any pics of the seat yet.

I want to again thank all the board members involved in getting my seat to me safe and sound, Huck, Teeitup, and Gmcjon, oh I almost forgot Teeitups brother for meeting up with Huck and teeitup's boy was sick.This type of help and comraddery(sp) is what this board is all about,and can't thank you guys enough:phat: :ww: Sorry for the long post:o Now here are some pics

Last pic

once again nice work byrd

Randy, trucks lookin' good. I guess by the progress on Frank, you haven't tried the patch piece I dropped off to ya? Thanx for the parts. Will be able to finish radio install now. Great meeting you. Wish we woulda had more time to BS? Maybe sometime you can come this way with Huck? Still got a couple of schools to attend down your way. Will catch up to ya then?

Later,

Dan

:flag: :gmc: :burnout:

It's looking better by the day.:D

Dan,
No that is for my driver and it is in the perpetiual awaiting restoration:lol: :rolleyes:
I believe the patch panel will work just fine, just needs a little sectioning to line up right. Thank you again for bringing it down with you. Please do holler at me when you come back down for school!!:ho:

That is coming together real nice. I need to get back on mine (stupid work).

Cool to see the parts get to you through the hands of numerous boardmembers. I've met gmcjon and teeitup and they are great people. Keep at the project!

Got a little more done yesterday and today. I got all new brake parts, calipers, ceramic pads , turned the rotors, new bearings races, grease seal, and new cotter pins. For the the rear I got new wheel cylinders, new shoes and spring kits, turned the drums. I also got the new stainless e-brake cables installed while I was at it. I pulled the hoghead to replace both axel seals and drained the fluid and also check the ratio. I found the truck has 3.07 gears in it. I blasted the brum backing plates, drums, and the front dust shields, and painted them flat black high temp and they turned out nice.I will have the rear done tomorrow, I had to wait on an ebrake spring, the PO had the wrong spring on it.

I got the stainless pop up style filler neck today and I knocked out the little piece of metal down in the DS stake pocket. Smashed my thumb while knocking that piece of metal out:cuss: :banghead:

I went by the machine shop building the motor and was informed the heads were shot of the motor and I needed to replace them :banghead: it only broght the total up another $50 to right, plus another $35 for the cam upgrade, bringing the total to $1250. It should be ready by the middle of next week and I can get started on getting the intake on and ready for paint. I'm going to base/ high temp clear the engine and possibly the tranny too.I have a buddy who is doing it for me a return favor for an electrical job I did for him a while back.



A few pics....

good reason to try to get some vortec heads now (you need another manifold for it though )

Got a little more done over the past week or so. Got the rear shock relocator brackets installed, still need to put rear shocks on, also go the front shocks on I used doetch tech(sp) drop shocks for better ride and handling. Got the DS rear stake pocket enlarged a little and cut down the filler I bought and got them close for now, still need to finish it up. I went and picked up the motor last Thursday, installed the intake after picking it up form the sand blaster, got the motor taped up, prepped and painted with Plastic coat high temp paint.NO dice on the bc/cc as he was afaid it would peel from DD. Peeled the tape off and put in the oil pump,pump rod(bought a all metal rod to replace the stock plastic one:rolleyes: ) pickup tube, oil pan on , dizzy in and started working on getting the 89 burb serpt set up bolted on and into place. I had the brackets sand blasted and painted them with the same high temp paint so it will all match well.I just set the carb, valve covers and breather in place just to see what it will look like when readt to go.I'm likin' it!!!!:metal: Tell me what you think:gi:
I drove my 69 in my avatar to pick up the tranny from Bowtie overdrives yesterday at a local trucking terminal. Fresh 200r4 with a 1800 stall and complete install and TV made easy kit, and torque converter lock up kit. A guy at the trucking terminal asked me if that was my 69 in the parking lot, and when I said yes, he then wanted to know what I wanted for my truck, and was shocked when I, without hesitation said," it's not for sale". I guessed he wasn't used to hearing that:lol: I hope to get the tranny out and painted this week so to trial fit it to have a drive shaft made for it. I am going to paint it the same high temp color black as the motor.

I did find out that the headers I have will not work with the heads. The headers have round holes and the heads are squared.:banghead: and also the alt I have will need to be swapped out for a newer style to fit the brackets.

Here are a few pics

she's coming along very nicly, great job

good stuff! Way to go.

You are motivating me for sure!

I'm just a bit nervous to tear into her. Can one but the cab cart or just have it made. I'm not a good welder but i do have someone in my shop that can.

More progress!! I finished up the serpentine belt set up and had to add a bolt hole in the pass side head for the bracket. Got all the water, and PS pump and pulleys on as well as the A/C compressor, new belt and new idler and tensioner pulleys. I have ordered the alt and it will be here Tuesday and that will complete that part. I will have to rework the fule line some, maybe with some braided flex because the serp bracket is in the way of the fuel lines normal path.
Got the motor and tranny bolted together with a new high torque mini starter and tried to use the headers seen in the pics but the driver side is not going to work:( Took the driver side header off and the motor and tranny dropped right in. I then had to set the new crossmember up for the tranny and drill the new mounting holes for it, and got the tranny bolted down to it with a energy suspention poly mount made for the new crossmember. Installed the tranny cooler lines on the tranny and put in the TV cable.
I tried to finish up the E-brake cables but ran out of time and will work on it some more this weekend.

With the weight of the motor and tranny in, I'm really digdin' the stance:c2:
Her are a few pics of the progress..

Everythings really looking good! I can tell you have done a lot of work since the start.

lookin good, keep it up

The cabless truck. I had one of those too.

It looks good. Progressing along very nicely.

Thanks guys for the words of encouragment!! It means a lot!!

Looking for a set of 3/4 length ceramic coated headers that will fit, any help is appreciated

I picked up a cab(almost totally rust free, literally) from Montana that Huck a fellow board member turned me on to. Bill another member here in Ky brought this cab back and had it for sale. Huck contacted me and I got in touch with Bill and the deal was made. This should make the restoration a lot easier as the cab I had before was pretty rough(see pics in earlier post)I brought the cab home yesterday and got it into the shop for a photo op.Huck was also very helpfull in giving me a 1 1/2" yoke that I needed for my 200r4 to get the driveshaft work done and complete the driveline.Hopefully in the next two weeks I will be able to get the bodyguy started on the cab and keep the restoration moving along. The cab will only need maybe a rocker and a little on the kicks panels, but other than that is is rust free, all cab supports, cab corners, winshield area, visor area, and floor pans are rust free and in great shape.
Thanks again Huck for the help and the heads up!!!
Here are a few pics of the cab..

few more pics, there is a little damage to the PS drip rail ,somebody before Bill and I must have tried to pick the cab up with a strap and pulled it loose, shouldn't be hard to fix.

looking great and that is gonna be one killer rolling tribute when done. great work!!!

looking great and that is gonna be one killer rolling tribute when done. great work!!!

Thanks a bunch!! I hope to be driving it by late spring, or summer. I believe me getting this cab will help make that goal possible:metal:

those rims are from a late 70's early 80's corvette just so you know. here is a picture of what they look like polished and with the red stripe on them. BTW cool build and i am hopping to have a 67-72 SWB really soon sense i might have someone that wants to trade for my corvette (not the one in the picture)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/my_baby.jpg

those rims are from a late 70's early 80's corvette just so you know.

Close, but no cigar! The "slots" on the vette wheels are smaller than Byrd's wheels, not to mention that a vette wheel has a different bolt pattern than our trucks. Although, I agree that Byrd's wheels would look great polished.:metal: