I have a question about wiring up the RamJet 350 I am finally getting around to installing in my '67 C-10. I am also installing a Painless harness in the truck, though I am making mods to keep everything clean (I do not want mid-wire splices, and I hate T-Taps).

Anyway, I can't get my head around what should be a relatively simple hookup. One of the wires in the RamJet harness is supposed to connect to the ignition switch (it goes into the start relay, and I know that the ECU controls the RamJet firing), which I am pretty sure connects to the start terminal. Using my logic, this would mean that there isn't a wire going from the ignition switch to the start solenoid terminal on the starter, and I can't figure out how the engine would ever crank over!!

Is there anyone with RamJet experience who can help me out? What I am thinking is that there should be a wire from the ignition switch to the starter (via neutral safety switch), and then the ignition wire on the RamJet harness would connect in somewhere along the line...Is this correct?

I don't know if i understand 100%, but the ECU only needs to see the starter turning over to pulse the injectors, it doesnt "control" the starter. You should still have all of your original wiring to the starter, all you have to do is add the ECU signal wire to the same post on the starter. I can haul out my instructions but i remember running a wire to the starter solenoid as well, the ecu should see a signal to pulse the injectors from the crank signal (which is a cam sensor from the distributor).

So basically i cant really tell you what the function of that wire is...haha, but i can assure you if you just add it to the starter terminal and wire everything else correctly it will start.

There is no break in my original starter wiring. No splices. The Painless harness is "stand alone".

I am installing the wiring right now using painless as the main harness in a '71and the ramjet-350 + I have elected to go with a 4L60e transmission. I have done several modifications and if you need help, let me know. Can take pictures of what I am doing if you need visuals. PM, i dont always check back here.

Just curious how you guys get your speedometer to work with a 4L60E?

there are a couple of ways....you can use a modified 4l60e tailshaft housing that moves the reluctor ring sensor, then use the 700R4 drive/driven gear combo to make the mechanical speedo work. Some the the early 4L60e transmissisions had a dual sensor/speedo drive in the same unit that installes in a regular 700R4 tailshaft. check out https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_4L60E_TailHousing.html
and
https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/V8-chapters/V8-tpi-Speed-Sensors.pdf
for some really good info.

I was going with the same thought. I was going to try and find an early model 4L60E with the 4 bolt tailshaft housing, find an old700R4 with a mechanical speedo, and use the 700R4 housing and output shaft in the 4L60E. Then buy the adapter from a guy on ebay for $60. His adapter fits into a mechanical housing, but sends electronic signal to the pcm.

Or you can spend a few hundred and get one of these jtr units. TCI also sells a converter that plugs into a 4L60E and then converts the signal to a mechanical cable. I think that unit is $300. It seemed to me that that unit would burn out after some use. And, I didn't want to add any unneccessary computers/electronics to the vehicle.

I have a question about wiring up the RamJet 350 I am finally getting around to installing in my '67 C-10. I am also installing a Painless harness in the truck, though I am making mods to keep everything clean (I do not want mid-wire splices, and I hate T-Taps).

Anyway, I can't get my head around what should be a relatively simple hookup. One of the wires in the RamJet harness is supposed to connect to the ignition switch (it goes into the start relay, and I know that the ECU controls the RamJet firing), which I am pretty sure connects to the start terminal. Using my logic, this would mean that there isn't a wire going from the ignition switch to the start solenoid terminal on the starter, and I can't figure out how the engine would ever crank over!!

Is there anyone with RamJet experience who can help me out? What I am thinking is that there should be a wire from the ignition switch to the starter (via neutral safety switch), and then the ignition wire on the RamJet harness would connect in somewhere along the line...Is this correct?


Ignition switch and start relay are not the same thing.

Does the wiring schematic show it going to a starter relay, or the ignition switch?

Ignition switch and start relay are not the same thing.

Does the wiring schematic show it going to a starter relay, or the ignition switch?

If there was a wiring diagram, I probably wouldn't be as confused!!:confused:

The install instructions simply state, "Connect the ignition lead to the ignition switch..." (The rest of that quote is about the tachometer connection.

I know that the wire in question goes into the starter relay (of the RamJet harness) because I reloomed the entire harness to get rid of the awful plastic split loom (about 25-30 6" long pieces of corrugated loom and a mile of electrical tape!!!). This is not the same as the starter solenoid on the starter...which is the root of my problem!! If there was another wire from the RamJet harness to the starter solenoid, I would be home free. But the only wire going to the starter is B+.

If there was a wiring diagram, I probably wouldn't be as confused!!:confused:

The install instructions simply state, "Connect the ignition lead to the ignition switch..." (The rest of that quote is about the tachometer connection.

I know that the wire in question goes into the starter relay (of the RamJet harness) because I reloomed the entire harness to get rid of the awful plastic split loom (about 25-30 6" long pieces of corrugated loom and a mile of electrical tape!!!). This is not the same as the starter solenoid on the starter...which is the root of my problem!! If there was another wire from the RamJet harness to the starter solenoid, I would be home free. But the only wire going to the starter is B+.


I think you only need the one wire to the solenoid with electronic ignition...the points style your truck originally probably had a wire on the R terminal of the solenoid, if memory serves, that wire on "R" went up to the ballast resistor, or bypassed it, something like that...so when you started the ignition you got full voltage to the points, then when the key went back to "Run" the Voltage was routed through the bassast resistor/resistor wire.

You might want to run that by someone with a better memory than I have, or if you have a wiring diagram for your truck, you could back trace the solenoid wires to confirm.

The ramjet is easy...just hook one wire to the B+ or battery and the other goes to ignition (HOT in run and start). The ECM will figure out if its being cranked or not. Just make sure the grounds are connected and the fuel pump relay harness/signals are connected as specified.

Thanks to BubbaGreen, I am now clear as mud!!!!

Thanks for all the help!

Hey nandress...what starter and transmission did you end up using? And just as a follow-up, mud is not very clear...so I am not sure if the PM's helped.

Hey nandress...what starter and transmission did you end up using? And just as a follow-up, mud is not very clear...so I am not sure if the PM's helped.

:lol: You're good!! I think I got it straight now...the next problem will be execution, but that's all on me!

I am using a 700R4 from Phoenix Transmission in TX. (They wire it with a single wire that is supposed to connect up to a switched 12V source, but I think I have that covered now!!! :o ) The starter is the GMPP high torque starter suggested in the RamJet instructos, if you need P/N, I can look it up--not handy at the present moment. If we wouldn't have already had this starter from a couple years ago, I might have tried the Power Master model to have a little more bling!! The pinion to flexplate clearance is a little tight for some reason, but all the mechanics we've had look at it say it will be fine.

Ok...I too went with a 4L60e trans from phoenix trans in TX. Awesome shop they have and using a TCI flexplate. I also chose a GMPP starter, It looks like the standard delco starter, only less weight (a lot less). I converted my valve covers over to the composite version like that of a corvette. That was bloody expensive...but i prefer the look over the chrome covers. Got any pics of your set-up?

Got any pics of your set-up?

From the right:
http://home.att.net/~nandress/IMG_1979_1.JPG

And from the left (a little further along...):
http://home.att.net/~nandress/IMG_1993_1.JPG


If I was doing it today, I would have bought a 4L80E instead of the 700R4, but there are quite a few of those wouldas with a project that goes on for so long!!

I think that Phoenix has moved into a new facility, but I was just a little shocked when I showed up at their shop to find an old converted gas station. But they have a pretty good reputation, so I knew that you just can't judge a book by the cover!!

I used the Proform Black Crinkle valve covers, which at the time was done to eliminate any and all brightwork, but we discovered that there was too much black, so you can see a bit more aluminum now. But I still love the covers, they fit the style of our truck very well.

I know there are rules about threadjackin', but since it is related to the RamJet wiring....

BubbaGreen: Which oil pressure port did you use for your sender (or are you using the original guage with the tube)?

I am using the original style dash with the stock oil pressure gauge, so I am using the top port for the oil pressure gauge. The water temp is the tough one...The ramjet uses a smaller port than the original gauge, someone here on the board was selling a turned down version of the original.

Looks good nandress, did you follow my link? I have a few pictures posted, you have a ways to go as well I see....I am a bit further along, but still have lots to do.

BubbaGreen: Looks pretty sharp!!

I was curious about the sending units because I am using VDO electric gauges, and the VDO oil pressure sender won't fit up by the distributor. Was thinking about using the port just above the oil filter, and was curious if it would be good enough. It looks like you relocated the RamJet water temp sender to the head, which should have left a couple of the 1/2 NPT ports in the intake available for your temp sender.

That is actually a over temp switch to trigger the temperature light on the instrument cluster...I left the sensor shipped with the ramjet alone, they are still in the original positions. I am now considering using the temperature light that is in the insturment cluster as a "check engine" light.

Where is #1 on the distributor cap? I just put the spark plug wires on and trying to time it. Not shure spark plug wires are on right.

:fb: Where is #1 on the distributor cap? I just put the spark plug wires on and trying to time it. Not shure spark plug wires are on right.

Here is a diagram.

------------------------------------------------------

Thank you!! I was one hole off!!

I am trying to set the timing on my Ramjet 350 and it states to 10 degrees before top dead center. The stationary timing mark is only one mark and is shaped like a V. Is that 10 degrees??

Good question!! Now that I think about it, I guess I would also like to know the answer. Isn't there just one line on the damper? I haven't started mine yet, so I never really thought about it.

When you started yours, how far from aligning the mark and carrot was yours?

My distributor was loose and was moved before I started it. So I can't go with where the factory set it. I set the timing where I thought it was 10 degrees BDC from the V mark. It does'nt sound right.

you should be able to dial it in using a timing light. You are using the included scan tool "code mate" with the switch set to the correct position?
#94008 http://216.230.203.183/marine/marine.htm
http://216.230.203.183/RamJet/ramjet.htm

you should be able to dial it in using a timing light. You are using the included scan tool "code mate" with the switch set to the correct position?


I know this is going to make me sound stupid (as if this thread doesn't already do that) but I have never used a timing light, so please be patient! :o

Do you dial in the 10 degrees on the timing light and then rotate the distributor until the timing mark lines up with the carrot, or is there another mark on the dampner that lines up with the ten degrees?

BTW, finally figured out the wire I was looking for that led to this thread in the first place when I finally read the Painless manual and found out it was spelled out exactly what to do!! And engine is wired, waiting to finish A/C plumbing and it is time to push go!!!

I assume by your question...about dialing in...that your timing light may have a knob on it that allows you to adjust the timing. If that is the case, leave the knob on your timing light set to zero...and with the engine running, aim it at the timing mark on the crankshaft and adjust the distributor until you timing mark aligns up with the 10deg BTC line. Again, make sure you have the code mate connected as instructed in the manual when "timing" the engine. Feel free to PM if you need more assistance.

:fb: On my old block the stationary plate on the engine had more than one mark on it. The new motor (Ramjet 350) has only one mark on the engine in the shape of a V. Is that mark 10 Deg. BTDC??

Dennis,

Can you maybe take a picture of the timing indicator on your engine to show these guys what we are talking about?!! All I have is a front view of it, but I don't have anything clear with the marking on the dampner.

Thanks.

If you rotate the engine a full 360 degrees...you should find some where on the face of the dampner...a 1/16" wide slot that runs the full width of the dampner...this is your line you use to set up to the timing mark/gauge on the engine...it helps to fill this line with a something white...like white-out, white grease pencil, or even a bit of white paint. I can take a picture of mine, and post it, but wont be till tomorrow.

nandress,

Mine looks just like the one in the circle in the picture above. I know how to set the timing. I just need to know if I time it to the center of the V (picture in circle above) on the engine? So my question is the V mark 10 degrees before top dead center? Or is the V mark TDC?

Well, I guess it should be pretty idiot proof then! It has to be that when the line on the dampner is aligned with the carrot, then the proper initial timing is achieved! I know that there is only the one line grooved on the dampner so that has to be 10degrees BTDC (with the scan tool plugged in of course). And since the ECM controls the timing for this engine, then it really doesn't matter once the ECM knows where the crank is in relation to the distributor.

Dennis, if yours runs ruff with the timing marks lined up (after you have unplugged the scan tool) I would guess it is possible your distributor was moved before you got your engine...especially if yours was loose to start. You might have to reset your distributor with your number 1 piston at TDC (not sure at what position though).

I am in the middle of a similer problem. I purchased someones junk project that had a new ram jet in it. I have since removed it and installed in my 70' Blazer. The wiring harnes apprears to be simple. I have one problem. Four of the wires are no longer labeled and I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for the harness.

An anyone tell me what the Purple, White and Grey that are in the same pigtail as the Red that appears to go to the battery.

I would appreciate any help.