OK, I got a good deal on a 1985 TPI with a 700r4 tranny in great running condition. I got the engine harness, and computer with it also...

Can anyone help me out on what connectors are for what besides the computer connectors? I have the TPI swap book, and the manula for that year car (Corvette) and I am studying that also, but any help would be great....

hear is the engine on the pallet.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v665/tradeforcash/000_0315.jpg



Here are the connectors.....any help is great as to what wire is what...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v665/tradeforcash/100_1339.jpg



More
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v665/tradeforcash/100_1338.jpg


Thanks everyone for the help


If you need any more info, let me know.....


:)

For the most part you can split the harness into two sections...the ECM harness and sensors....then the vehicle main harness, which provides gauges, start, ign, etc... since you have all the components and a manual, your best bet is to study it, if you start to take things apart, take lots of pictures and label things as you go....and this has turned into a run on sentence...but goodluck.

well its been a wile since i helped my friend with his..

C is ecmu plugs..

A and D i cant remeber but i think also ecmu plugs..

B is definatly your injector power plug.. that is it is the wires that supply the power to your injectors.. thats power not signal to injectors.. the 2 pink and 2 orange are for each bank of injectors.. you will have to wire in a toggle sitch or somthing to these with an in line 10 amp fuse to each color set..

E not sure...

anyway hope the picture helps so others can more easily help you identify them..

On the Injector lines, if I read the book right, I can just run these off the fuse box for power when the ignitionis turned on, does that sound right?


Thanks for the help....

Hey Chad!

I've done a TPI swap myself, and I must say, I'm jealous... I wish I had a complete engine to swap in... I did it the hard expensive way and made a setup out of new and used parts off ebay, lol

However, that said, I have a few suggestions with regards to your setup.

First is with regards to the fact that it is an 85 setup. They have a single year only ECM (`870) / burnoff module. There are a few problems with this, first is that there is little to no support for that specific ECM, and it is painfully slow in outputting sensory data. Second is that the burnoff module is both expensive, and seen as typically unreliable.

Now, before you think that you've made a bad purchase, and start regretting it, I've got good news for you -- It is really easy to upgrade your setup from that old ECM to a newer `165 ECM from an 86-89 TPI car, and a number of other TBI / MPFI cars and trucks of similar years. The newer ECM operates at a much more tolerable speed, and has a ton of support with regards to dissassemblies, and tuning equipment. It also takes place of the burnoff module, and does everything internally. The only major disadvantage is that you must also replace your MAF sensor. That said, you can sell your old ECM, burnoff module, and MAF sensor for more than the new ECM, and compatable MAF sensor will cost you.

Here is a link to a website that has a detailed, step by step set of instructions for switching ECMs: http://www.cis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap/

Second suggestion is that you spend a couple nights soaking up information from www.chevythunder.com

That site has absolutely everything you could possibly need to know about swapping a TPI system into your truck. I'd print off a copy of the `165, and the `870 ECM pinouts, then without unhooking any wires, remove the wire loom. Put electrical tape around the wires in their factory orientations so your harness doesn't turn into a rat's nest, and mark the different peices of loom so you know which came from where so you can put it back together similar to what it looks like from the factory). You can then trace wires, and identify them with your wiring diagram so you know which wires are required, and which are extras.

If you decide to run a `165, for the cost of materials to convert your memcal to a flash chip (ZIF for like 3 bucks, and 2 hips for like 5 bucks + the cost of shipping), and the cost of shipping the memcal to me, and back to yourself, I can have it set up to take custom flash chips (just need a programmer to do your own in the future, I recommend the www.moates.net BURN1), and also burn you a chip that disables VATS, AIR, or EGR and if you so desire, change the injector constant. I can't do any tuning, as every engine is different, and needs a different tune. Its up to you to buy a programmer, a laptop, and start datalogging / tuning. Another option is to run the 89 `165 code, it eliminates the cold start injector, and is the latest version of the code. Delete kits for the cold start injector are available, and again, you can probally sell your old cold start injector, or just leave it there disconnected as a block off plate.

Don't think that you have to use all the factory connectors. One such example is the under-dash connector (the clear one), I totally eliminated it by hooking the different wires that run to the gauge cluster, fuse box etc directly to the ECM, instead of running through the under-dash connector first.

Finally, place your ECM somewhere that you can easily get access to it to pull the chip out for tuning purposes. One suggestion would be on the kickpanel on the passenger side of your truck. If I remember what the cab looks like on my 64 3 ton, the passenger side kickpanel is very large and flat, shouldn't be much trouble to tuck the ECM in such a way that just the bottom of the ECM sticks out with the access door for the chip. You can then have all the wires up behind the dash, and see nothing but just the ECM hanging down. Don't worry about drilling holes in your kickpanel, or making any unsightly brackets. Simply remove the bolts from the side of the ECM, and buy some industrial strength 2" wide Velcro with adhesive backing, clean the mounting surface of both the ECM and the kickpanel with some alcohol that doesn't leave a residue, and simply put the ECM on with that. This way it is easy to remove the ECM if a replacement is needed in the future, and it also helps dampen possible vibration by giving a small amount of play in the velcro connection.

If you've got any questions, or comments, feel free to post here, or PM me, and I'll do my best to give you a hand.

now that you have learned that you can modify your exsisting system. i want to let you know that the motor i helped with was an 85 motor. it runs fine the way it came from the factory.. but it sounds like those mods would be a good idea in the long run... my friend has the correct manual for an 85 wiring harness if you need one let me know i will give him a call and find out the phone number so you can get one.. this company installs these motors into the old jaguars and are pretty easy reading manual..

oh and to answer your question.. the book we used it said to run a hot wire from the batery then to a toggle switch then split it with two wires one for each bank, each bank wire then got a 10 amp fuse then it was hooked to the existing injector power wires.. there are two seperate banks or sets of wires. anyways if you want to run these wires like you are saying to the fuse box.. i would hook a 12 volt relay to the fuse box.. the coil of the relay or small post is what you hook to the fuse panel.. one post to the fuse panel one post to ground. on the other side of the relay i would plase it in the set up as i explaned earlier in place of the togle switch.. the reason they did not want you to run it directly to the fuse panel is cause of the constant amp pull. it would be like runing your heater fan on high all the time. sorry if this is confusing i am writing all this off memory but it is still pretty well in my mind as this was one of the major problems my friend had with his..

You want your injectors hooked to a voltage source that is hot with the key in both the on position, and the crank position. Make sure of it, cause your engine will not start if you don't have your injectors getting power at the same time as the engine is cranking.

It really shouldn't make any difference if you've got them hooked right to the battery to be on at full times, as the ECM provides ground. Basically, having power to the solenoids would be a bit like taking a few hundred feet of wire, and hooking it to the positive battery post -- Unless you put the other end to ground the ground post, it won't draw any power

When I wired my truck up, I actually used spare fuse slots in my stock fuse panel, so I don't have any aftermarket fuse boxes. I set mine up so I had one fuse dedicated to the ECM's two power inputs, one fuse dedicated to both the fuel pump and it's solenoid and one fuse to run both injector banks & my EGR solenoid. The ECM's power inputs & fuel pump stuff both draw through their respective fuses that are connected directly to the wire that feeds my fuse panel which that draws directly from the starter solenoid through a fusible link. The injectors and EGR solenoid fuses all draw from the ignition switch output wire.

Whew!!! Lots of info here.....

Thanks to everyone for the help so far..

I have been looking at Chevythunder for the past 3 weeks....I have the web site image burned into memory right now....

I may or may not swap over to the later year ECM. Everything runs right now, and it is all in good shape, but I will probably be a candidate for an upgrade in a few years.....

Just a question of funds to spend, I still need to get a fuel pump and lines,
My gauges and new fusebox should be in sometime this week.....
And assorted other stuf that I forget I need until I try to do something!! haha

I will post more questions when I have them, and also progress of the motor into the truck!!!

Thanks everyone!!!

And again, any more info you think I need let me have it!!


Chad

Great info from Russell. I spent a lot of time looking up wiring diagrams and tracing all the wires on the harness before I got started. Labeled everything, then figure out what wasn't needed.

My recommendation for a fuel pump is to get an in tank model with built in sump from Tanksinc.com. That's what I used on my Blazer and it works great.

Good luck.

:cool: How good of a deal did you get? I bought a whole '87 trans-am for 300 bucks and I drove it home! it ran great and hard all the way! drivetrain is going into my '67 :D

Rusell, great reply! :thumbs: now I know who to run to when I swap mime in ;) :D

I dodn't get that good of a deal.....That was a steal for $ 300!!!!!!! :metal:

I thought I had done good until you told me that!!!! :(

I will be diving into the wiring this afternoon, I was gone all weekend on a trip to NC......


progress will be noted sometime in the near future hopefully......

I spent all weekend when I was in the car looking at the wiring diagram and making notes on what was needed and not needed....

Now I just need to match it up to the engine wiring harness.......




yeeeee hawwwww!!! that should be fun....:)


adios!

mikes did you use the stock blazer tank with your setup? do you remember the part number of the pump you used?

I used an 87+ suburban tank (mine is a 91) with my truck. Same think as a K5 tank, cept bigger. I wouldn't reccommend it on a shortbed, just barely clears the diff on my longbed, lol I know it clears cause I un-did the rear shackles, and put the frame down on the bumpstops, and found that I've got a meer inch and a half clearance to the diff cover...

I put a stock fuel pump from a 90 T/A into my tank, which was a direct bolt up swap with the TBI pump. Just make sure you take the high pressure hose from the F-body sending unit, and clamp it on with metal hose clamps so the fuel pump doesn't blow the hose off inside the tank.

If anyone has any questions, please free to ask any time :D I'll do my best to give you a hand, if I can :)