Is POR 15 primer a good primer for the body? does it have a nice finish when your all done with the paint? dose anybody have pictures
thanks
Robert

I tried the por 15 regular black rust paint. It dries hard and has a shiny finish but I dont believe anything painted over rust will hold up as good as sandblasting and priming. I would use a good quality automotive primer for the body. If it is bare metal use a self etching primer. The top coat is going to be only as good as the prepared metal below. Just my 2 cents worth:)

the body panels that im spraying are sandblasted and have filler on them. so hopefully after a few coats and wetsanding it will come out fine. I hoping.
Robert

I personally would use a primer sealer on them. Nothing against por 15 but I'm partial to the quality of Martin Senour, PPG, or dupont. I have used all of these brands with good luck.

The por 15 is very hard to paint over because it dries so hard and glossy. I have used it on frames and such that aren't geting top coated but I would never use it as the base for a topcoat.

Good luck, Rg

POR15 primer is not hard glossey or black// por 15 rust preventitive paint is// i've used the ticoat POR15 primer both over thier rust paint and on clean sandblasted metal it's easy to use gives you a nice even (epoxy like)base to put a finish coat of paint over and as far as cost it's about midrange// i've also used thier self etching primer with similar results// the differance in the 2 is the ticoat you have to wait a minimum of 24hours to fully cure b-4 topcoating and the selfetch is ready to go in a half hour// neither of these POR15 primers afford any rust protection the POR15 rust preventor pait does and to paint over that you must first use one of the 2 listed primers or some people will spray regular automotive primer over the rust preventive paint while its still tacky to assure a good bond

Sorry guys, I haven't used a por 15 primer, didn't even know they made one. I was talking about their rust preventative paint, sorry for the confusion.

Rg

Hey Nice site; I'm a first timer to this; so please help & guide. I'm doing up a 65 C-10 from the ground up. I was reading about the POR 15 questions; food for thought--have you ever looked into the EASTWOOD products @ EASTWOOD.COM? I've been using a new item they have called RUST CONVERTER. It is a 2 part mix that reacts with the rust and creates a hard shell. I sand blasted my frame & let a light rust build and coated with the product and it dried black; it reacts with the oxidation from the rust. From here I'm using another eastwood product called rust encapsulator; with final coat of chassis black they sell. Live in Arizona where UV and sun create havoc with paint. Frame has been sitting in open sun for over a month with light coat of the rust converter and no problems; best part of all it cleans up with water. Sprays great through HVLP gun with 1.8mm tip. Thanks for letting me ramble on--keep the ideas coming; nothing better than old chevy truck people keeping them going!

I just finished my truck floor and used the Rust Bullet. I had welded in repair pieces and removed all rust. The only reason for the rust encapsulator was the pitted areas that were still sound metal. I wire brushed em darn good, used Phosphouric acid to etch, then cleaned it off real good before the Rust Bullet.
I chose the rust Bullet simply from the tests they show on their web site. You can use any paint over it within 24 hours I believe it is, any longer you scuff it and then paint.

Very tough stuff!!!!

??? another one doesnt read or understand the thread???

Didn't mean ta tip the boat, just adding to the discussion..........and my experiences.