Well here are a few pics of a little work on the firewall and the new mustang II cross member. I am looking for a turbo 350 so that I can completely mock in the engine and tranny and get the motor mounts welded in.

I hope these pics show up right.

Your moving in the right direction nice progress. Great looking job on the firewall and the frontend.

The cab is back on to mock up the motor mounts.

Looking good! Keep those pictures comimg......did anyone tell you how much we like picturs! :)

I got the turbo 350 today and thought the installation of the motor and tranny was going to be really simple but it turns out the motor mounts I have are a little too long and they were making the motor sit too high and the trans was not clearing the transmission access panel. So I am having to cut the mounts down a little. Just a little pain in the butt.

Also is anyone else using the tubular a arms from TCI? The grease zerks in the ball joints are screwed into a round piece of metal in the ball joint and when I try to take them out they just spin in place. Does anyone have a secret to screwing them in or out? Do I have to have the full weight of the car on the ball joints to have the piece not spin?

Well I mounted the motor and the tranny in. Now it is time to start to save up for the 4 link for the rear.

It has been a while. Family and I had to move to Cali and now I am a full time college student so not much time or money to spend on the truck but here are a couple of updates.

I tried uploading more images but I believe they are too large. Sorry

Here are the other pics that I was trying to upload. Got the C notch done and finished up the fender tips.

I am envious in a good way for you. I am working on a 67 waiting my chance to put cab corners on a truck like yours. Please keep showing everyone progress. I have found a few cabs like that in the weeds and am going to get one going again when I can find a warm dry place for it. I will be looking for your progress for more inspiration.

Thanks but it is going to be a long process. School and family are priority right now. But after graduation I should have more time.

So I bought some bear claw latches this weekend and decided to go for it. Here is the drivers side I am currently working on the passenger side and am documenting it better than the driver side. These close so much better than the original.

Looks good so far should have took alittle more time in mocking up the door latches and thought it out alittle better. The rod coming off the inside handle should be lengten and bent slightly and attached with a bolt to the upper latch release on the bear claw, also u need to recess the latch in the door panel instead of bending the latch outer plate and not making it sit flush with the door jam area for a clean looking install. Question what are you going to do about the big gaps on top and bottom of latch and the latch itself is exposed to the inner door panel instead of inside the door itself? Good luck with the progress on your build keep it up. just my opinon

I plan on running the rod door door panels so it should cover all of the stuff inside. If not I will just use some metal and fab it up to look nicer. I just wanted to get the latches in and see if they would work. Also on the 55-57 unless I am mistaken will not mount inside of the door. I was going to do that at first but on the other side of the metal is the window frame rail so I could not put anything there. On the AD series trucks I have seen write ups where you can simlpy install them in the door and they work good but not on the Task Force trucks.

Cool I have kinda glanced at them before at shows and things but really havent had a chance to look one over. Keep it up.

So I installed the triangulated 4-link. Just need to get the shockwaves to make sure that I can leave the lower bars on the outside of the frame rails.

Here is the battery box that I made for under the passenger step. I didnt want to sbapend the $100 on a drop down battery box so I designed my own.

You're making good progess, looks nice.
What is the width of the rear end housing from flange to flange?

Tri5

From flange to flange is 55 inches and over all 60. I had currie build me this one so I didnt have to mess with smaller bearings and 28 spline axles and trying to get it shortened to the right length.