Ok, we tore down my '72 and started cutting the front half of the passenger floorboard. Once the area around the RF cab bushing was out, the whole cab sagged down about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Do i just jack the cab back up and maybe shim it with some wood while the new pan gets welded in? Any tricks to this when i do the drivers side?
Also, has anyone sprayed a rust stopper like Ospho thru a garden sprayer? because , man, i have alot of rust to stop on the doors fenders and frame, this would be an easy way to shoot it into all those nooks/crannys.

RD

Can you show us what you did? pics???

You must be new. All kidding aside, you have to brace the cab up before you start cutting and welding if you are doing it off of the frame. Bolt your cab back on your frame, install your doors to make sure everything fits and then weld in your new floors. I know it is alot of work but, how much work would it be to redo your entire floors when everything is f'd up.

The support that runs from the back cab support to the front of the cab should have kept this from happening (I hope you didn't cut it...). I think 72CSTC5 has a good plan, without the doors on it will be tough to know where everything should be.

I know it would be tempting to weld in a new rocker and hope it is right, but it won't be... It would make more work for you.

Good luck, Rg

I'll get some pic's on Sat. The cab is still on the frame, and i didn't cut the north-south brace, but did cut the "fold" that runs across the front of the pan about 3-4 in above the bend towards the firewall. This fold runs east -west in the cab. Thanks for the advise on hanging the doors back on....do y'all take the fenders off? It looks like this can be done leaving them on. The bed is off, which exposed a carrier bearing that some bonehead had squirted high temp silicone into.....??? Fixed that and put in some coil over shocks. The rear end oil is next... i appreciate the engineers not putting in a drain plug....:( .
How can y'all tell that this the the first rocker/pan job i have attempted....LOL! Sheeze, those spot welds are really there to stay!

RD

Hey, this is the same kinda stuff we all have lived through... I never thought I would ever be on fire but I have at least twice since I started messing with these trucks!

You can put on and take off doors without pulling the fenders, it's tight though.

Good luck, Rg

Ok, here are some pic's, but we figured most of it out by trial and error. When jacking up the cab, it threw the door opening off, which threw the fender off, which threw the hood off which.......arggg! Anyway, we actuallty started welding in the new stuff. My buddie is using his TIG....gimmie a MIG anyday..that thing is slow and finickey. I am just lapping the pans over because it is a work truck, heck the undersides of the doors & fenders are almost gone too, but they will have to wait. I got a gallon os Ospho...hope it is enough.

RD

Wow that was rusty. Not much left there. Careful lapping the pans over, you will trap dust dirt and water between the lap over gap under the cab and you will be back just where you started. Looking good though.

Yep, i wish i had the time to do it right, but it's at a buddie's house, and i don't want to overstay the welcome....Besides it is kinda of a "practice run" on the '72 work truck, as my '68 Short Step will get the Full Monty. I am building a 30x50 workshop in TN and will have the time and the room early next year....i can't wait!

RD

I have been looking(drooling) at the Millermatic 210 at the welding shop...$1400 and was saving my pennies. Then, i just happened to pull up Craigslist.com, and low and behold a almost new 3 year old 210...$800....whoohoo! Now, i had only welded with shielded wire before on an el-chepo 110v mig, so i welded up 3/4 of one side before i realized that the gas was not set correctly. Wow, when the gas is "on" it really doesn't splatter........:banghead: Anyway, one side is done, and i figure one more day and i can put this thing back together.
The bottom of the doors are pretty bad, has anyone glassed them in to keep them to keep em from flapping in the wind?

RD

Make patch panels for the bottom of the doors.

Make patch panels for the bottom of the doors.

I'll take another look, but i don't think there is enough to weld onto.....they'r pretty far gone.......

RD

I'd get new doors.

I bought the 3M body panel caulking today at the local paint store......Ho-lee crap:ack: :ack: ....$11 a tube. I guess i should have checked here first, but i had no idea that the stuff was so expensive. Stupid question, why would not a quality painters caulk from the lumber store work?
I hope to get it all back together today..........

RD

It cracks

Got it done and back on the road....still have alot of exterior body work to do before it get painted.....