Thanks to Cliffsta's post on converting his 2 bbl to an Edelbrock #1406. Glad you got it done! :cong:

Two questions re: my stock '71 350 4-sp. I am replacing intake manifold with Edelbrock's #7501 (RPM Air-Gap) and shopping for suitable carb upgrade w/ electric choke. Favoring Edel's Thunder series #1813 or their Performer series#1413, both rated at 800 cfm (I don't believe in low-carb diets).

Q1: Is it possible to have too high a cfm rating (yielding poor results)? If it's all about moving the air faster in-out of the engine, more is okay...right? Currently stock heads and cams, single exhaust, BUT going to headers and dual exhaust for healthy exhale.

Q2: I hear that electronic choke on new carb needs wire from accessory in ignition source...but so does the coil for my not-yet-installed HEI distributor. Can both the electric choke and the HEI coil wire share the same accessory source? How?

Thanks you guys.

Oh, and yes, that is a P.O.'s gray sweatshirt doubling as a support bracket for the plywood battery tray in the picture. She ain't pretty, but she's all mine!

IMO, it is possible to have too much carb... I was given a Holley 770cfm and tried to run it on my 76's stock 350 that had headers and true duals. Even going to a smaller jet size didn't help... it would start and idle fine, but when the secondaries opened, she would bog, cough and stall. Switched to a 670cfm and even with a aftermarket intake, she runs better than ever.

I agree. Too much carb is not good. 600-650 is plenty on a stock engine. It,s best to go right to the ign. switch for HEI. I tie in to the pink wire on the back of the switch. Use 12 gauge wire. For the choke I hook into the fuse panel to an ign. source. It should go through a fuse or add an inline fuse. 18 gauge wire is fine.

Sources on this site seem to agree and recommend 600-670 cfm for a carb on a 350 with headers and dual ex.

But I'm reading 770 cfm from Engine Masters.com:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/smallblock/0606em_350_chevy_bolt_ons/

The example in the article sounds great and the dyno numbers are enticing. But you guys show consistent recommendations based on your experiences, too. Quite a challenge to sort through opinions before committing your wallet! Just looking for validation before dropping $300-$400 on a new carb.

Any specific advice on how to tie in to either the ignition wiring and/or the fuse box? I'm hoping someone knows a good and professional approach that will help get my new ICU patient's hacked wiring into more recognizable order through these upgrades.

Can't help you with the wiring, but ou need to look at that motor a little closer. The cam in the 290hp is huge compared to stock. If you have a stock cam, it will bog. You are better off for a daily driver with an Edelbrock 1406 for close to stock aplications.

I've purchased a new Edelbrock 1406 carb with the electric choke (I've committed). Now how and exactly where does the wire from the choke actually go? I've heard "into a live accessory source" before, but that's too general for the wiring-challenged.

Is this plugging into some metal tab behind the ignition key? If so, which one? How? And what about the HEI distributor? Same place? How? I've no idea what it actually looks like or what to look for. Anyone have some details to help? Pictures are always welcomed.

if you look at your fuse box you will find switched power and unswitched power ears ...#1 you want switched. so when you turn your key off your coil on the electric choke don't stay heated..and run your battery down...
#2 you can use the unfused with a inline fuse you install..

a cheap testing light really comes in handy on any electrical project
hope this helps...mark

I have a small accessory fuse panel that has 6 circuits mounted high on the left kick panel. It is fed from the unfused ignition terminal on the fuse box. I have my HEI, electric choke, and tach battery feed run off of this box.

yES ITS MEE AGAIN I''M SO MUCH INTO MANUL CHOKES I HAVE THE 600 CFM ON MY TRUCK WITH THE PREFORMER INTAKE SPREAD BORE AND I LIKE WHEN I HAVE TO STOP ON THE GAS PEDAL 2-3 TIME PULL THE CHOKE LEVER START THE KEY IT WILL FIRE SIT THERE FOR A COUPLE OF SECENS AND PUSH IT IN A LITTLE AND I'M SET I'VE PLAYED WITH THEM ELCTIC CHOKES I'VE HAD MORE POBLEMS WITH THE SPING NOT SET TIGHT ENOUGH OR NOT LOSE ENOUGH TO MUCH FOR ME I LIKE MANULE I DRILLED MY DASH ON MY 72 AND PUT IT IN MY AFTER MARKET CHOKE ITS BECOUSE I HAVE ONE IN MY 1965 OLD THING HARD TO PUT DOWN

R&R638 has the right idea on the choke wire. It doesn,t pull much curent so small gauge wire like 18 gauge is fine. For the HEI I like to go right behind the ign. switch. Tie in to the large pink wire & run a 12 gauge wire to the bat. term. on the HEI.

if you look at your fuse box you will find switched power and unswitched power ears
#2 you can use the unfused with a inline fuse you install..

a cheap testing light really comes in handy on any electrical project
hope this helps...mark

Thanks for the picture, R&R. Using the switched power ear makes sense. I just don't know what a power ear looks like (is it in the photo?), how to identify the one I need or how to connect to it. Just minor things. :o

Here's what I get: run an 18 gauge red wire with an installed inline fuse (what size?) from the positive wire on the choke through the fire wall to the...

Back of the fuse box somehow? Is this how to access and connect to a "power ear"? Sorry for the elementary question. I've just never seen or done any wiring to a fuse box before.

Q2: is the reason to install an inline fuse when connecting to the existing fuse box because the existing fuses are already at capacity? I don't think I've ever seen any open fuse spots on these old boxes.

Thanks again.

the ear, tab, spot marked radio would be a perfect spot to tap into to run your choke power wire.. with your test light clip, the tester on that spot and make sure when you turn your key off and on the test light, turns on and off with the key the same way..

if not keep trying different ones till you find one...this one will be it..

this circut will already be fused at 15 amp's.. adding the extra fuse will be a added safety for you..add a new fuse 15 amp should be pleanty.

you will need to get down there and look at the fuse box ...get personal..
to see the markings in most case's as these trucks are very old and the markings might be dirty and faded...
a test light is a must. to be sure you have the power for your choke..these can be had at any hardware store for 5.00 - 10.00

this circut must be switched so the choke don't say powered all the time.

good luck and may the force be with you..
any questions just ask...mark :metal:

Thanks, RNR. Appreciate your time and knowlege! Been busy making space in the garage to put the engine. Decided to pull it, clean it all up and paint it. That'll postpone the wiring a bit, but I'll have a better idea once it's back in!