This list of engine overhaul tools was created by contributors in the Engines forum. It is appropriate for the first-time or "backyard" rebuilder overhauling performance engine to deliver <= 1 flywheel HP/CID for a daily driver. As we move past that HP number and usage into high-horsepower, high-RPM or racing engines the level of skill and the tools required increases geometrically. This is not to say you can't build those type of engines in your garage and there are many books to help you do so - but that is beyond the scope of this simple list.

NOTE that in some areas your machine shop or local parts shop may loan or rent these tools; check with them before making any purchases!

Please advise billla@warbird.org or PM "billla" if you find errors or broken links in this list. Last updated 1/5/2007

Minimum Tool Set

Engine Stand: Even if you're building just one engine, make this purchase. Having overhauled an engine or two on the garage floor, it's just not worth it. Quality stands are relatively inexpensive - key features are a weight rating of 1000lbs. and 4 wheels. The two links below are for quality stands that I have used with no problems. For Big-Block Chevy fans, consider the larger 2000lbs capacity stands.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
http://www.alltradetools.com/index.html/screen/model_detail/display_id/id43b2afa45556b5.35068533/category_id/219/product_id/525/lang/EN (Available at Schucks/Checker/Kragen/Advance Auto Parts)
Basic hand tools: A good set of 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, both 6-pt and 12-pt - note that most ARP fasteners use 12-point nuts - along with a pretty standard collection of wrenches, pliers, etc. A center punch and inexpensive numbered punch set for marking parts for machine shop identification and re-installation in the correct location is required. A large screwdriver or prybar is needed to leverage the crank forward/aft to check end-play.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=54721
Feeler gauges: A good quality feeler gauge reading approximately .0015 to .035.
http://www.kd-tools.com/161.htm (Available at Sears and online tool stores)
Torque wrench(es): The range of torque settings on the small-block Chevy is about 20 - 80lbs ft; this range may require two wrenches. There is a lot of debate over "beam" type wrenches vs. dial or digital wrenches, but unless you simply cannot afford a digital wrench the beam type should be avoided.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944597000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Torque+Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
Thread cleaning taps: It is extremely important to clean all threaded holes to prevent debris from the threads entering the engine as well as to ensure accurate torque readings. You can purchase individual cleaning taps, but the set below is a great buy. NOTE: it is possible to use regular thread-cutting taps to clean threads...but those taps remove more material and risk damaging threads if used incorrectly.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00942275000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
Vernier Caliper: This will be your basic measuring tool for the overhaul. Micrometers are nice, but with careful use a caliper will provide sufficient accuracy for builds a this level.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00940185000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Precision+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4216&SID=fd51b692b335b7e230eeb4bb49e45ef7
Ring expander: Piston rings must be expanded to fit over the piston. You can do this by hand...but the chances of breaking a ring make this inexpensive purchase worthwhile.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&pid=00904662000
Ring compressor: There are two basic types of ring compressors; adjustable and fixed. Adjustable compressors use a flexible steel band that is tightened around the piston to compress the rings. They will fit a wide range of bore sizes but must be used with care to avoid breaking rings. Fixed compressors are a tapered aluminum bore to a specific size. These work better...but are more expensive and fit only one size.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAV%2D08970&N=700+4294881220+4294903084+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D900%2D0300&N=700+4294881220+4294778476+115&autoview=sku (Example: .030 overbore for 4.030)
Pre-oiler: Pre-oiling the engine before starting is critical to avoid a "dry start".
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MIL%2D23000&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Oil pump pickup installer: Everyone hears stories of oil pump pickups falling off. At this build level, it shouldn't happen and usually is caused by beating the thing on with a hammer. These inexpensive tools ensure a good seating and ensure the sleeve is retained.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4708&SID=fd51b692b335b7e230eeb4bb49e45ef7 (Small-Block)
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4709&SID=fd51b692b335b7e230eeb4bb49e45ef7 (Big Block)
Precision straight-edge: This measuring tool when used with the feeler gauge can help you determine if you need to machine your block deck or heads, and determine if the crank bore is straight.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4308
Engine cleaning brushes: Washing the block after machining is one of your most important tasks. You'd think everything would come back spotless from the machine shop, but it absolutely does not!
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D61820&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Balancer tool: Harmonic balancers must be removed and installed correctly to avoid damage to the crankshaft or the balancer. There are cheaper tools, but this is one of the best sets out there.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66514&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Plastigauge: This one is likely to cause the most discussion and debate. Plastigauge is a thin plastic string that expands in a "precision" way when compressed and is used for checking bearing clearance. It is definitely not the most accurate way to check these clearances but if you are not able to invest in micrometers or a bore gauge it will deliver readings close enough for a street engines making <= 1 HP/CID if used carefully. Typically, overhaul "kits" from Sealed Power and other vendors will come with Plastigauge but it is also available at NAPA and other parts sources.
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/
Rod bolt protectors: During rod installation it's important to protect the crank rod journal from being scratched by the rod bolts. Two 4" lengths of 3/8 fuel line tubing works fine for this, but there are very cheap aftermarket solutions as well.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CLE%2D2800B1&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Crank sprocket installer: The machine shop can install your crank socket, but if you'd like to do this yourself a 2" ID pipe ~6-8 inches long works great.
Chunk of non-hardening modeling clay: this is needed to set oil pump pickup to pan clearance as well as checking valve clearance.
http://www.play-doh.com/
Letter/Number Stamps: Some parts such as rod caps and main bearing caps must be kept together, and you'll want to mark everything you take to the machine shop with an identifying mark. Also, it's sometimes helpful to mark clearances, deck height, etc. on the block for future overhauls. These stamps are an easy way to do this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90124
Lint-Free Shop Rags: In general you CANNOT use standard red shop rags during overhaul. They leave lint behind that can cause problems later. Your safest bet are the new disposable paper shop towels.


Chemicals
These are the liquid "tools" needed for assembly. Note the absence of anything alcoholic :)

Medium-strength thread-locker (Loctite "BLUE")
High-strength thread locker (Loctite "RED)
Thread sealant
Anti-sieze
Cam lube: Your cam will come with a chintzy packet of this stuff, but it is not enough
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99002%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA%2D153&N=700+115&autoview=sku
GM Engine Oil Suppliment (EOS) is used as a pre-assembly lubricant and break-in additive. Keep a squirt-can of this handy.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1016/products/584/GM-Engine-Oil-Suppliment-EOS-16oz-Bottle-.htm
Lubriplate engine assembly lubricant is one of the most commonly used assembly lube. There are many others, but as a beginner you can't go wrong with this one.
WD-40 is used to keep machined surfaces lubricated and free of rust.
Brake Cleaner Brake cleaner is a strong solvent that evaporates quickly. This is a great cleaner when you must have "clean and dry" - for example, bearing saddles in the block, caps and rods before bearing installation.


References
There is a long list of great rebuild books, but these are the "must have" books:

Rebuilding the Small-Block Chevy: http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/1557880298/sr=8-1/qid=1168007269/ref=sr_1_1/104-5097078-0999124?ie=UTF8&s=books
Rebuilding the Big-Block Chevy: http://www.amazon.ca/How-Rebuild-Block-Chevy-Engines/dp/0895861755
How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevy: This is a great book, but do not use the tolerances in the book - refer to your service manual. http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/B0009RMFNO/sr=8-1/qid=1168007516/ref=sr_1_1/104-5097078-0999124?ie=UTF8&s=automotive
Factory service manual for your vehicle


"Nice To Have" Additions
These tools increase the accuracy of your measurements, allow further checks on the tolerances and allow you to complete more operations you would otherwise need to rely on the machine shop to complete. If you can afford these tools they do allow you to build more powerful engines.

Micrometers: Ensure you purchase a set with a vernier to allow readings to .0001.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4280&SID=fd51b692b335b7e230eeb4bb49e45ef7
Depth Micrometer
Dial indicator and magnetic base
Telescoping or "snap" gauges: Transfers inside diameter measurements to outside micrometers. Not as accurate as the bore gauge below, but also not as expensive.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4211&SID=907eab722b648412fd678844a27da6dd
Bore Gauge: This is definitely the "bling" of the overhaul toolset. Absolutely not required for the backyard rebuilder, but if you plan on doing a few engines a year it's worthy of consideration as it significantly increases both the speed and accuracy of bore measurements. It should be paired with a bearing micrometer.
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4192&SID=fc33d8f7eabf0d58dd8ce531026bf66d
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=4281&SID=fc33d8f7eabf0d58dd8ce531026bf66d
Spring compressor: This tool allows you to dissasemble/assemble your own heads, and temporarily remove valve springs for checks.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947627000&vertical=Sears&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
Crank socket: This tool makes turning the crank easier and ensures no damage to the crank which is a tremendous help considering the number of times you'll be turning the crankshaft.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D4793&view=1&N=700+150
Camshaft degree kit: Although not required at the basic build level, this tool becomes important as lift (and HP) increases. This kit also includes a crank socket above.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA%2D4796&N=700+400114+4294925139+115&autoview=sku
Cam holder: Installing the cam can be done by either temporarily installing the cam sprocket or by installing long bolts to provide a grip. There are nice handles available for this as well.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D900134&N=700+4294925139+4294925138+4294857319+115&autoview=sku


Tools NOT To Buy
There are some tools that are readily available and commonly recommended that you do not need either because they are available for rental, are not required or require skills that as a new or "backyard" engine rebuilder you don't need.

Ridge reamer: This tool is typically used to remove the ridge left at the top of the bore due to bore wear. Unless you plan to reuse the pistons, this tool is not required...and is an easy way to destroy a usable block if used incorrectly. With the low price of aftermarket pistons, pistons are a "throwaway" item on rebuild. To get a piston out of the bore, pound it out from the bottom with the wooden handle of a hammer - you may break the piston ring lands, but you won't gouge the harder bore wall - and that's what we need to keep intact.
Cam bearing installer: This is one of those operations that you can do at home...but the shop can do it better, faster and relatively cheap.
Ring filer: Your best purchase is pre-gapped rings. The gaps will typically be on the wide end of the specification, but this is acceptable at this build level. Gapping your own rings will likely require you to replace as many as 1/2 of the rings due to errors.


Final Notes
Tools are an investment; this is a multi-edged sword. Good ones aren't cheap - you don't need the very best if you're not building racing engines...but cheap junk will either break something or hurt you. OTOH, don't "make do" with a hack approach saving up for an expensive tool when a cheaper quality tool is available. Yes, the really nice ring compressors are sweet...but you can do a fine job with a bit more work and care with the inexpensive band compressor. There is a fine line between "cheap" and "inexpensive"!

The last tool you need to bring to this process is patience. The aphorism "measure twice, cut once" is a good mindset to have - you cannot rush this process and experience success. Spend some quality time reading through the references noted to ensure you really understand the process end-to-end and ask questions on what's not specific enough in those books.

I hope this FAQ is useful and helps guide board members to good tool purchases and successful rebuilds!

Plastic gauge would be good to have.

Plastic gauge would be good to have.

Yep; good one - my mistake.

A hone is a must IMO. If you go ahead and slap new pistons and rings in a glazed cyl the rings do not seat as quickly. I agree and disagree about the ridge reamer. I dissagree becasue you risk the chance of damaging the rings and or piston if there is a ridge. Of course if there is that much indication of wear it's fairly obvious stock pistons arent going to cut it with any expectations of having the engine last and not use lots of oil.

Also since this is a back yard builder thread. Scotch brite pads for cleaning/polishing the crank journals.

There's nothing here about machine work, only tools. The decision to go with a simple flexhone or a machine shop bore/hone is made after measuring the bore...and so is beyond the scope of this FAQ from my perspective and is more of a "how to" for a basic overhaul.

For the ridge reamer, I've just seen too many people destroy a good block and I can't see any reason to reassemble an engine with used pistons.

I'm also going to pass on the crank prep materials as more of a "how to" than tools required.

No pushback on your comments, and maybe I'm thinking too narrowly here...

A hone is a must IMO. If you go ahead and slap new pistons and rings in a glazed cyl the rings do not seat as quickly. I agree and disagree about the ridge reamer. I dissagree becasue you risk the chance of damaging the rings and or piston if there is a ridge. Of course if there is that much indication of wear it's fairly obvious stock pistons arent going to cut it with any expectations of having the engine last and not use lots of oil.

Also since this is a back yard builder thread. Scotch brite pads for cleaning/polishing the crank journals.

Bill, The only other thing I like to use is a cam installer, although a couple long bolts work good this is a handy tool and I don't think they are very expensive from summit or jegs.

edit: Here is one from Summit 19.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D900134&N=700+4294925139+4294925138+4294857319+115&autoview=sku

Bernie

P.S. Ring filing is fun...lol. It takes me about a hour to do a set and I have done tons of them.

Yep, I agree...but a couple of long bolts or using the cam gear works too. No pushback...I'll put this in the "nice to haves".

Yep, I do it too...but I've watched a LOT of people make serious mistakes here...

Bill, The only other thing I like to use is a cam installer, although a couple long bolts work good this is a handy tool and I don't think they are very expensive from summit or jegs.

edit: Here is one from Summit 19.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D900134&N=700+4294925139+4294925138+4294857319+115&autoview=sku

Bernie

P.S. Ring filing is fun...lol. It takes me about a hour to do a set and I have done tons of them.

Alright Bill, now teach us to use them! I have been a little leery about bearings, good clearaces, putting pistons on the rods and such. Hope the rebuild thread comes along soon.

Bill, I thought of another thing...If I am doing assembly by myself or with one of the kids I use 2 pcs of rubber hose for the rod bolts to protect the crank. I wouldn't call that a tool but really helps.

Bernie

Good catch; I use the Goodson sleeves...but I agree this is a must have.

THANKS to everyone that's contributing to this!

Bill, I thought of another thing...If I am doing assembly by myself or with one of the kids I use 2 pcs of rubber hose for the rod bolts to protect the crank. I wouldn't call that a tool but really helps.

Bernie

a good list// i'd add a good center punch or numbers set for marking bearing caps // i also use modeling clay or silly putty to check piston to valve clearance and oil pickup to pan clearance//i also have a tool(homemade) that bolts to the balancer for rotating the engine

i cant stress the most important part of a rebuild is having a well read service/overhaul manual

Alright Bill, now teach us to use them! I have been a little leery about bearings, good clearaces, putting pistons on the rods and such. Hope the rebuild thread comes along soon.

I've thought about it; I do remember your comment on my 355 overhaul thread and took some pictures. I keep coming back to the fact that there are great references out there already and trying to think what I could show that's different. Interested in your thoughts here.

All great catches! Added all of these with the exception of the home-made tool; I did call out the crank sprocket that's included in the degreeing kit.

a good list// i'd add a good center punch or numbers set for marking bearing caps // i also use modeling clay or silly putty to check piston to valve clearance and oil pickup to pan clearance//i also have a tool(homemade) that bolts to the balancer for rotating the engine

i cant stress the most important part of a rebuild is having a well read service/overhaul manual

How about a gear puller set to remove the old timing gear off the crank? Hard to remove without one. And a prybar to move the crank back and forth to check endplay.

Could do...but typically I let the machine shop tackle that as part of their prep of the crank - keys, etc. Completely agree it's easy and cheap to do at home, but I don't think it's REQUIRED. Open for suggestions if you think I'm off-base :)

I call that prybar a "screwdriver"; right tool for the right job, I always say :) Seriously, I'd consider that a "basic hand tool" that doesn't need to be specifically called out, but I'll add a note to that section.

THANKS!

How about a gear puller set to remove the old timing gear off the crank? Hard to remove without one. And a prybar to move the crank back and forth to check endplay.

Sounds like we have the same "prybar":lol:

How about a pile of CLEAN LINT FREE rags and super fine scotchbrite pads for cleaning. Along with Brake cleaner or electrical compnent cleaner.

All good - I'll add those; couldn't do without 'em!

How about a pile of CLEAN LINT FREE rags and super fine scotchbrite pads for cleaning. Along with Brake cleaner or electrical compnent cleaner.

Bill, Just a thought, Back when I worked at the Auto parts store we would rent some of these tools..ie gear puller, balancer removing tools, torque wrench etc. I don't know if they still do that or not...most of these kids working parts stores don't even know how to work on engines so maybe not. That might save on a few tools if someone is only going to do one motor might not need. I don't think I would trust a rented torque wrench though.

Bernie

problem Ihave a 71 gmc,while taking out bench seat,3 of the for 4 bolts stripped out threads rusted completly out is their a fix. will i have to weld in new ones to put bench seat in