hey Kevin, i have a bench out of the 70 that was recovered in a tuck and roll diamond pattern. the bench is solid but could look better,color wise. Tony

Too bad about that HEI, I have one that I would have given you for shipping. I am sure that there are others on here that will have parts for you also at little to no cost. Just my 2 Cents
Thanks for the offer but I was in a hurry to get it up and going for its road test this weekend:) I will be posting needed parts as the build goes on.

Kevin, you could throw his harness in a box with my frame pieces and I would pay shipping. just send it all to Bryan and I'll get them from him this summer.
I will have everything apart this weekend and I will try and get things rolling next week. I will let everyone know if shipping is going to happen or not. I have very little sape time right now and with it starting to warm back up (60's) I will need to get cracking on project Lemon Drop so I can get it in paint. I has been too cold for priming so I have filled my time with this new toy.

hey Kevin, i have a bench out of the 70 that was recovered in a tuck and roll diamond pattern. the bench is solid but could look better,color wise. Tony Got a pic! Would your wife sit on it:confused: LOL

Kevin
LFD Inc.

well Kevin, I like the idea of what you are doing. showing how to build a cheap yet highly reliable truck is extremely helpful. all the manufacturers have been trying to achieve this for many, many years and are getting close. it takes a fair amount of planning and carefull egineeering. I havent touched mine in 3 years except for the things I got stupid on earlier. (like forgetting to put the lockwashers on the pan bolts) ol' Lefty starts every morning and gives me not a lick of trouble.
I know this goes against the cheap rule but if someone has headders that are constantly leaking I HIGHLY suggest copper gaskets.

hey Kevin, i could really use those trailing arm, let me know . Tony

well Kevin, I like the idea of what you are doing. showing how to build a cheap yet highly reliable truck is extremely helpful. all the manufacturers have been trying to achieve this for many, many years and are getting close. it takes a fair amount of planning and carefull egineeering. I havent touched mine in 3 years except for the things I got stupid on earlier. (like forgetting to put the lockwashers on the pan bolts) ol' Lefty starts every morning and gives me not a lick of trouble.
I know this goes against the cheap rule but if someone has headders that are constantly leaking I HIGHLY suggest copper gaskets. Yes coppers work well but in my case the header port weld ring only catches the port by 1/32" in a few places so mine are heading for the garbage as soon as I can get a set of manifolds.



Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,
I think I may have a set in the garage. I will look tomorrow and let you know. If I have them, in the spirit of the build, you can have them for the cost of shipping.
Bob

Kevin,
Does your parts truck have a wood bed (assuming the steel patch panels were from the 70)? If so are you willing to part with the cross sills? I'm changing mine over from steel.

Has anyone grabbed the pile of side trim or the tail gate yet? How about the gas tank?

Thanks!

If you decide to ship I'll gladly take those mirrors off your hands. I don't want to seem ignorant here, but are you anywhere near Pasadena. My bro lives there and I could probably talk him into coming and getting them.

Kevin,
Does your parts truck have a wood bed (assuming the steel patch panels were from the 70)? If so are you willing to part with the cross sills? I'm changing mine over from steel.

Has anyone grabbed the pile of side trim or the tail gate yet? How about the gas tank?

No my 70 is a complete running keeper! The 67 was a steel floor! Side trim is gone, gate is still here! Tank is also still here!

Thanks!

If you decide to ship I'll gladly take those mirrors off your hands. I don't want to seem ignorant here, but are you anywhere near Pasadena. My bro lives there and I could probably talk him into coming and getting them.
Yes as you leave Pasadena turn right and I am about 500miles up the road near the big tree on your left! Sorry I had to do it:lol: I will put you down for the mirrors if shipping happens.

With a stop in Winnemucca...I could be there in about 10 hours...with a one hour time change...it is like nine as I get to live a whole hour over again.

Are you still on the left by the tree coming from the east?

hey Kevin, Thanks for the trailing arms, and yes i still have your # i will give you a call this evening to firm up the time. Tony

if you decide to ship i would like the very rear most piece of the bed floor you cut up.

Side Note...what guage is the bed floor?

Tim

3 pages? Where's the truck build?

why did you decide to cut the frame where you cut it at? is that not the frame you are going to use?

Yes their is alot of BS for pages so far but as soon as this stuff is gone I will be deleting any and all non truck build thread related posts on my end and please do the same on everyone elses.

No that is not the truck I am building, that is another that came with my 70. It has no title and alot of rust and i do not have enought room so it is going very soon.

Does any one know how to properly patch a radiator leak? I have a small drip comming from a damaged fin that I would like to try patching up my self. I have a good tortch set up with small brazing tips but no idea what or how to do this. It is a very new 4 core radiator other wise I would just replace it. Any good links?

Thanks,
Kevin
LFD Inc.

3 pages? Where's the truck build?

No doubt, I bought a longbed just for this thread........Ah, I'll quietly observe from this point on:)

Does any one know how to properly patch a radiator leak? I have a small drip comming from a damaged fin that I would like to try patching up my self. I have a good tortch set up with small brazing tips but no idea what or how to do this. It is a very new 4 core radiator other wise I would just replace it. Any good links?

Thanks,
Kevin
LFD Inc.

I saw them put a raw egg in the radiator while the car was running on MythBusters. It worked like a charm :D.

if shipping happens I would be interested in the dash bezel... I need spare parts to convert to vac dash... thanks.

I saw them put a raw egg in the radiator while the car was running on MythBusters. It worked like a charm :D.

+1 on the egg, too bad it's only temporary.

can you tell exactly where it is coming from? when i was in highschool the radiator in my 280z sprung a leak, and being the dumb kid that i was, i just crimped the fin that was squirting with a needle nose pliars. whaddaya know, i drove it another two years like that. :crazy:


now for a question.
The truck you are parting is the 67 right?
would 72 disc spindles work with the upper and lower control arms?
If so, i'd like to take them off your hands if they are still available.
:)

for the leak i would try sodering or brazing it. i've never done it but it would probly work if you can get to where the leak is.

Yes I know right where the problem is and I do want to braze or soder it but I just do not know what product to use on it. I am thinking that regular copper pipe soder is not right.

Ok I have been thinking about what to do with the parts people want shipped and here is were I am at. Most people want an item shipped and I was really hopping that more local guys would have wanted parts. I just do not have enough time to box, pack and ship these parts off. I leave at 3:30- 4:00 am and normaly do not get home untill 4-5 pm then I have customer projects to work on, a house (1928 craftsman style) I am rebuilding, a prego wife and 2-3hrs of sleep to try and get to each day. I am not trying to make excuses for not wanting to ship but this is just why I said from the start that I did not want to ship. I feel if I ship out one item then I need to ship out all of them and I know it just won't happen. Sorry but if you can find a way to get the parts another way great but all I can do at this time is offer them up to local members.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

kevin,
I've fixed several radiators before just get the big .025 Solder Rolls With Rosin Flux Center 60% Tin 40% Lead-Rosin Core. Get some acid rosin, clean the area real good with a wire brush, slap some rosin on it heat it up with your brazer tip, after it starts to turn colors (light red) move the tip away and add the solder. It should flow into the area pretty easily. If its a big hole, you may want to try and make it smaller by using needle nose pliers to crimp it down to a crack.

Hope this helps, it's worked for me several times. I did a 65 Mustang radiator back when I was 16 and it lasted for a couple of years. Then I lost touch with the car so I don't know how long it really lasted.

Here's a web site for a place in Santa Ana, but you can probably find everything you need at a Sears or other good "Hardware" store.
http://www.action-electronics.com/kester.htm#Wire

Thanks I will be pulling the radiator on Sunday and give it a shot.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Ok I have been thinking about what to do with the parts people want shipped and here is were I am at. Most people want an item shipped and I was really hopping that more local guys would have wanted parts. I just do not have enough time to box, pack and ship these parts off. I leave at 3:30- 4:00 am and normaly do not get home untill 4-5 pm then I have customer projects to work on, a house (1928 craftsman style) I am rebuilding, a prego wife and 2-3hrs of sleep to try and get to each day. I am not trying to make excuses for not wanting to ship but this is just why I said from the start that I did not want to ship. I feel if I ship out one item then I need to ship out all of them and I know it just won't happen. Sorry but if you can find a way to get the parts another way great but all I can do at this time is offer them up to local members.

Kevin
LFD Inc.


Surely there are some local members who can help Kevin get this stuffed shipped?

Surely there are some local members who can help Kevin get this stuffed shipped?
If someone has the free time and can do this than that would be great I am just over extended as it is. My wife tells me I need to start telling people NO from time to time but it is in my nature to say yes and try and help:(

Kevin
LFD Inc.

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

Well we made (my father inlaw and my self) progress on the truck today. We put in new plugs($16.72), wires ($34.00) and the HEI then He tuned it with a vac guage and his ear:crazy: but it runs like a champ, idle's smooth, shifts hard and breaks very hard:metal: Then we put on the bumpers that had come with my 71 SWB because the ones that came with this are too nice for a tow vehical and would look so nice on my 71 with the 68 front clip. They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas? Then we replaced the tail gate latch, put in the carpet I have had sitting around for about 8yrs also out of my 71 and since it has been body dropped it will no longer work. I got one of the new mirrors on but the passenger side was miss boxed and the arm is not for this truck so I need to track down a new one. All in all it was a great day and for tomarow I plan on fixing the radiator, replacing the power steering pump, box and psi line. Then I need to build a mount for the seats and it is road ready!!

Here are a few pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $491.06
and 18hrs

that is cool with me Kevin. I understand.
I am in the process of a home remodel as well. mine is a 1916 Sears. I'm not sure of the model yet but the wood is amazingly hard and tight grained. i have to use drywall screws as the nails just bend. (heartwood pine everywhere. including the studs)

Small world mine is a sears as well but way newer than yours (by 12yrs:lol: )

Here is what takes alot of my time and with our first kid on the way I have alot to finish like put in air and heat and other usless stuff like that. It is not going to be cheap :whine:

Here was part of this summers work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

my parents have a sears home as well dated back to the thirties. we found the origional blueprints and paperwork in a tube inbetween the rafters upstairs when we where remodeling it.

Hi Kevin,
I'll take the gas tank if you've still got it and the tailgate if it isn't too far gone. I'll PM you my phone number to set up a good time to drop by.
Thanks!

I suggestion on the parts shipping problem. I wonder if there is a local member who needs some fo the surplus parts that would trade some of his labor to box and ship stuff in exchange for the donated part(s)? They would have to make the shipping cost arrangements but maybe would feel better if tehy earned what they got.

They do not have the turn lights like this one does. I am thinking about fog or driving lights in the bumper holes. Any ideas?

How about RAM AIR intake from the holes in the bumper? I know this is just a driver so fog lights would be cool...

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.

Hey Kevin what are those seats out of? Sorry if this has been covered, but I have just started following along with your build. Thanks, Lamar.
Back row of a 2005 tahoe. they are not great seats because they do not adjust at all and are kind of narrow as well but they are free so why not give them a try.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Thanks, I thought they were Tahoe or Yukon. May not be the best seats but they look cool!!!! thanks again, Lamar.

Kevin,the amount of work you have done in the limited time you have been working on this along with your other obligations astounds me.I no longer have the drive or stamina to do this type of stuff.I have been following this thread and it has given me a boost in initiative to get going better on mine.Thanks for that.Now if the weather would just co-operate....

wait till the baby comes... momma won't let you that much time outside the house and good luck getting any sleep!

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

Are you giving away the seats now? If so, I'll take them and use them in the back of my blazer. Will you be around tonight around 4:45?

Not yet I am joing to try and see how they work. But if I change my mind I have you on speed dial:lol:

Kevin

Ok back to the build! I got alot done today but it was very windy and that made things a pain in the a$$.

I started by pulling out the radiator and fixing the leak. I went to home Depot and come to find out here in California they do not sell Solder with Lead any more at you local places. So I just bought a kit for about $8.00 and used my MAP gass tortch that I have for doing plumbing and it worked great no leaks so thanks for the help. All in all once it was out I think I spent about 5 min cleaning, moving fins out of the way, soldering and moving fins back! Total about 1 hour to remove, fix and replace.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $499.06
and 19hrs

Then came the PS pump ($66.98), PSI hose ($23.39), steering box (free in bed of truck:) ) and the rag joint rebuild kit($7.69) and about 4 hours in labor(I already had the radiator out). replacing the pump was easier just to remove the radiator and fan so you have good access. Once the pump was out you will need to remove the pully off your pump and re use it on the new one. I have a cheap kit that works well for this. It came from Napa auto parts and runs about $25.00 Then put it all back in just like it came out.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
total $596.84
and 23 hrs

I found that my steering rag joint was bad so instead of spending $50 or so for a new joint I just bought a rebuild kit for mine and it only cost $7.69 and took about 20min to rebuild. Just grind off the head of the two rivits and pundh them out (very easy) then you will need to put it in a vise so you can get the lock washer and nut on. Then just put it back in. The kit had a standard size post and a larger one that I can only think helps take out some of the slop in the coupler. It fit fine and works great.

Kevin
LFD Inc

Now for an old hot rod trick I learned years ago form my budys dad. I like to run a single belt from the crank right to the water pump pully. It does not run anything but just is along for the ride untill that long Alt. belt decides to fly off as you are pulling a big hill with a loaded trailer and their is no where to pull off for about 5 or 6 miles. Do you let the motor over heat, stop and pull to the side of the road a posibly cause a wreck! No you just keep on driving because that due nothing belt is now running your water pump untill you have a safe place to pull off and fix things:) I show the Napa part # that I use with the stock size pullys. How you get it on (since their is not an adjuster for the water pump) is remove your other belts, and the fan from the water pump. Then put the belt on the second (how I did it) from the back grove on the crank and over the water pump flange. Then put the belt on the water pump pully and angle it on the flange and push it in place. This is needed in order to get a tight fitting belt on both pullys. It does not fit as tight as other drive belts but it does not need to, being so short it will not jump off or cause a problem (atleast in teh 20ys I have been doing this). The put you fan and other belts back on just like you would always do and you are set. The belt was $7.86 and no extra time since it was all part for the PS pump.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
total $604.71
and 23hrs

You know this build has been alot of fun so far but strange at the same time. On most of my builds I would be in the $2000+ range for what I have done here so far because I would have replaced everything as I went. But on this one I am just doing what needs to be done to be safe and reliable. Normaly I would have bought the High end HEI from Davis Unified Ing. (DUI) for $300 and their 8.5mm wires for another $100+ and better plugs that would go 50,000 miles for $80+- or so for a truck that might get 2-3K miles a year on it. I would have also ran out and did new exhaust instead if fixing it for now and that would have been $3-600 depending on headers/manifolds, aluminized tubing, flowmasters and you just have to have the chrome tips! So for me each time Isit down to add up parts I cringe at what it is going to be then when I add it up and only see $604.71 to date and the truck is on the road and is running good and feels safe it is kind of a neat feeling:o

So the next things will be mounting the Tahoe seats, tracking down some wiring problems like int. lights, heater and small things like that. Then will be the lowered front dropped spindles and springs (5") and the rear flip kit (6-7") and a good alignment because it darts side to side so chances are it needs it but I will wait untill I drop it so I do not pay for an alignment twice. Then will come the chop job to the frame and bed but that will not happen for a few months untill I get cought up on customer builds now that it is starting to warm up a bit:metal:



Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin, I love reading this thread, and have gotten many good tips, and seen how to do things I never would have thought of. Members like you, and many others here, are the reason I spend so much time reading these posts.

BYW...great work on the house remodel. Looks like a million bucks.

great threead!!!! quick question, were you able to track down the rust form the kick panel area? my 65 has the same area but bigger problem, was curiuos if you traked down the leak if any?

thx

around here they call that a "circle track belt".


carefull on the budget anouncement. if the little lady finds out how cheap it really can be it may come back to haunt ya later. LOL

kevin,
Glad you got the radiator fixed. The only time i take mine to the shop anymore is if its areplacement job (tank or fins) or if I think it needs a good cleaning. Actually I've cleaned them out before with dulited muratic acid and it worked fine. I forgot you in CA where they don't let you buy anything that might be considerd haz. mat. The solder job should last a long time.

this is my kinda build..low buck,,but got it running and on the road...for me that is my goal for my truck....but im not shorting the bed,,on this one..lol...nice job on the house to..

great threead!!!! quick question, were you able to track down the rust form the kick panel area? my 65 has the same area but bigger problem, was curiuos if you traked down the leak if any?

thx

I have not even looked yet, this thing is in too good of shape to start digging and find out what the real truck looks like;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well I washed the truck today (with alot of water) and I did not find a single water leak :) So I am thinking the rust in the kick panels is from leaves being built up in the air boxes.

I also pulled the cluster out so I could put in a new cluster that came with the truck. It also came with a new lense and bezel. The only thing is this cluster has the air gauge and the lense has the Vac label but for the price I can not complain and I will be using it for the rear load bags. Before I put in the cluster I need to replace the vent ducting and run a few more speaker wires. I am also trying out some Bituthene on the floor just in a small spot to see if it gives off any smell when it heats up. If not then the entire inside will get covered under the carpet. It is about 25% the cost of Dyna mat and has 90% of the same qualitys. Plus I have a 50' roll left over from my roof that I would like to use if it works. Also when I pulled the front tire for the box change yesterday I noticed how light the wheel was then noticed it is a US Indy Mag. I remember the name but can not place it. Does anyone remember what the deal is with them? They are 8 1/2's

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I had some Indy mags on my new 442 in 1967. They were an open spoke deep dish wheel that was real popular in Indianapolis at the time. I'm not sure if it was the same company or not.

Tom

nice clusters....those going in the trash!!! didn't figure...

I've been looking for the vac gauge and tin

Well today was one of those expensive one's but it will do alot for the build. I called up ECE and spoke with Jerry (very helpfull). I told him about this build and that we are trying to do it for alot less then the average build. He spent alot of time going over parts and prices for me so I could order what I fent was the best bang for the buck. I will post prices when the parts show up with my invoice. First parts were the 2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. Next is a new cargo light switch and new screws for the cargo mounting. I ordered a new set of vent tubes for the heater and A/C vents. Mine are all falling apart so I will replace them and let you know what I find out in the process. Then I will be rebuilding both doors, window felts, window regulators, window scrappers and vent window rebuild kits. I asked about just replacement vents and I was told that they will not sell them because they do not fit very well. I will try and do a full HOW-TO on the vents for others to follow and put it in the FAQ section. Also Jerry told me mmost people will just replace the window regulater because they are $39 new or $18 for just the three rollers needed for one door. But hey for $21 per door I fent it was worth a try and should work out great as long as the wear does not extend beyond the rollers. I also got new door panel mounting screws because half of mine are stripped and will not come out so I will show a few different ways to get this done. Last would be the sway bar bushings so I can get this thing to handle better than a barn door on a windy day:lol: All in all it should be about $750 or so but I will list prices and part numbers as we go along. As for the frame and bed chop and shortening this will be done after Project Lemon drop is painted and before "Project Trazer" comes back for its solid chopped roof.

Stay tuned.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,

I need the radiator support mounts off the frame for my crew cab truck. Let me know if you still have them and not spoken for. Also if you need some 2 part paint for your floor let me know

Can't wait for you to start your doors. I need to get that done and once I get the old tax refund I'll order up some parts. Good luck with the rest of it and I'm lovin the build.

AA

I love seeing packages when I get home! I took the rest of what was left from the parts truck to the scrap yard today and made $34:metal: Then I get home and MR. Brown had stopped by and left me a few gifts. I did not know that ECE had their own spindles made just for them. It was all packed very well and came in three boxes with out damage. Their was also a note letting me know that I had two parts that were back ordered (thanks Jerry). I will be starting on the dash vents first then head onto the doors when I get some free time. I will do the front suspention when I finish up Lemon Drop. So for now they get to keep all my parts in the corner company! I noticed that part of the vent window kit included a blind rivit kit that I will be able to use for part of Lemon Drop's build;) .

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well the vent job turned out to be a bigger project than I thought it would be. In order to get to everything I decided to remove the radio (I also wanted to see if the dash was cut at all) an it made it much easier to get to the center vent. I also found that all but one tube was broke in several places and one tube to the center vent was not even their. I also thought it would be a good idea to draw a simple routing for the vents before removing everything. Then I decided to remove the lower duct work so I could clean it out (the water was black that came out of the inside:barf:) with warm water and a soft paint brush. Everything worked alot smoother after it was dried. That is about as far as I got tonight and I will try and finish it up on Friday after work. Also one of the best work lights I have come accross so far is this light by Craftsman that my brother got me for Christmass.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I also removed a two guage set up that was under the dash so I could get to the bolts for the controls and I am glad I did. I found a small oil leak that now I can fix before it gets on my new carpet. Then when I removed the lower vent box I found a burned out switch that I will replace one of these days. It is for the A/C side of the system that will not be hoked up for awhile.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Also one of the best work lights I have come accross so far is this light by Craftsman that my brother got me for Christmas.

Just so you know its not a 'drop' light. The lens breaks very easily. Guess how I know:lol:

Just so you know its not a 'drop' light. The lens breaks very easily. Guess how I know:lol:
That is why I said "Work Light":rolleyes: But yes I have not YET dropped it. The magnet is real nice but I would put a piece of felt on it to keep it from scraping the paint. For out trucks (real trucks are made of all metal) that mag works out great. I was out in the drivway working on this last night in 30ish (temp has nothing to do with anything other than being cold) weather and had that in the cab for light while I was tearing everything apart and it was like having another hand!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well teh duct work sure is tight in their! But it is all complete and if you tackle this the bigest thing I can say is take a bunch of pic's before you take it apart and as you go. I had a hell of a time figuring out the cables and then just getting it all back in place. One extra thing I did was installed a sterio deck while I was up intheir because after it was done you would not get one to fit with out removing a few things. I first installed the drivers A/C vent and tube then the drivers defrost went next. After that I put in the center dash A/C vent and tubes in the the pass side defrost and last but not least the pass A/C vent.
ECE's vent tube were a perfect fit and all cut to length. They are also alot better then the ones that came with my Vintage Air kit. They feel like oiled Denem or somthing simular. Their was no need for clips or tie wraps to keep the tubes in place because they fit so tight you have to twist them in place (they kind of screw on to the ducting). Then before I replaced the controls I installed a new sterio deck. I found that to get the controls back in I had to remove the mounting bracket from the controls and reinstall it after it was slipped into place. PS. if you remove the ash tray it will make things a bit easier to reach around while working.

I would say that the Vent replacement (no sterio) took about 5-8 hours depending if you want to clean parts as you go like I did.
ECE A/C and Defroster hose duct set part # 10-AA06 and it was $59.00 and worth every penny IMHO.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Total $663.71
and 31hrs

Sorry but it had to be done!

I know it was an uncut dash but in calling around for a new head unit I found out that they do not even make two knob radios any more. You can go with somthing like classic car audio but they are 2-3 times as much as a new style CD player. Since this project is "Low Buck" I can not go out and spend 3xs more then needed to get to our goal. Plus I can always undo what I did today if I decide it is needed. I also had some 5" speakers laying around so I added them to the doors along with a new pair of 6x9's. The door was already cut for 6x9's so it wasn't like I cut "good" doors:) I did need to cut the hole a bit larger so the speaker could mount from the front. The old ones were placed behind the door skin and that is one reason they did not last. Also if you are installing door speakers do not set them any further forward then I show because the door inner structure is at that location.

The deck is a JVC KD-G420 20W RMS X 4 (50W X 4 max). It will comtrol a CD changer, MP3 and has a AUX input jack in the front for an Ipod or other. It is a flip down face CD player and the face aslo comes off. It ran $124.99 and did not need a wiring kit to be installed like most newer cars do.

The speakers are Kenwood KFC-6903ie 300W max. I went with these because the old ones were shot from getting wet and the paper cone rotted away. These have a plastic type cone and are 3way speakers that sound alot better then they are. I payed $89.99 for these.
For some a sterio may not be needed but if it is this is a fairly cheap way to go and it still sounds very nice. So if a sterio is not for you then disreguard the $215 spent today!
It took me about 3hrs to install the deck and speakers. It was made much easier by doing this at the same time as the vent tubes.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Build Total $878.69
and 34hrs

Oh the first pic in the last post was how the PO had wired up his bumpin system:lol: Spend the few $ and get the right size conectors for the job.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rusty door panel screws are alot of fun but not that hard to fix, lets see how!

I pulled the door panels today because I saw that most of the screws were stripped or rusted out. First thing I did was removed the door handles with my trusty cheap handle clip remover. For those who have never doe this before you will want to go to your local parts store and get a door handle clip remover. You slide it behind the handle and pop out the C clip that holds the handles on.
They if your panels screws look like mine or worse follow along and see what I came up with today. First take a 3/8" drill and drill out the head for the screw untill it falls off. If your panels are covered like mine you will want to start with an 1/8" bit and work your way up untill the head comes off or you will damage your panels like I did. I knew my panels were rusted beyond repair so I just went at it with the 3/8". Once your panels are off you might be able to remove the remaining screw with Vise grips like I did. Even know I still had a 3 out of 8 screw nuts that were usable I decided to replace all of them one I figured out how I wanted to do it. I just took a center pundh and poped out the remaining 3 nuts. Then to replace fix the nuts I used these panel nut made for wood. I ground off the four spikes off the back so they would sit flush on the doors. I also ground a small area around all the areas I wanted to fix including one Door arm rest nut that was sitting in the bottom of the door:lol: I then used my large center punch to hold the nuts in place and also to protect the threads from weld splater. I just tacked the nuts in two to three places then ground them smooth and painted them so they would not rust. I had a set of plain black door panels in my attic so I put those on for now untill I can find some decent CST panels to put back on. From start to finish it only took about 30 minutes per door from start to finish and broke the bank with a whopping $4.00

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Build total $882.69
and 35hrs

And

Also while I had the panels off I cleaned out the doors, vacumed and used compressed air to get out all loose build up. I also used a small flat screwdriver to get down in the door seam before the vac came out. After it was all clean I bug bomed the door bottoms with Rust Tough spray can paint to help prevent and rust from comming to visit. These doors were in real nice shape except for the panel mounting nut but that is all fixed and the new screws from ECE for $6.00 (part #05-6720015) for both doors are holding everything together. $3.95 for the can of paint.

Kevin
LFD Inc

Build total $892.64
And 35hrs

Even your shade-tree work looks good! :lol:

How are you going to run the wires to the speakers in the doors??

How are you going to run the wires to the speakers in the doors??

I just pulled new wires thru the holes that were their. I did up th esize of the wires for two good reasons~
1) the bigger wire has thincker coating on it for protection from the edge of the hole.
2) right now I am only running off deck power but may add more down the road so I wanted to only do this once!

With the wire comming out at different heights it make for less wear on the wires because they just slightly twist from open to shut. If you came out of the cab and went into the door at the same point you would have the wires trying to slide in and out of the door or bending in half every time you open and shut. This is still not the best way but it is CHEAP:metal: and that is the name of this game!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice work, Kevin. I hope to start on my doors this weekend and that's some good info right there. Is the door relay tight? My passenger side is great, but my driver is shot.

I am building my door panels so I don't have to cut the door bottoms. I'm cutting the hell out of my dash though :D

Is the door relay tight? My passenger side is great, but my driver is shot.

:D


:confused: door relay:confused:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I believe he is talking about the switch in the door frame to turn on the interior lights. Neither my '70 or my '72 have these switches, but then, I don't have a CST.

I think he is talking about the inside door handle mechanism - sometimes called a remote or relay. The hardened post wears out the softer housing as you use the handle to open the door. As a lot of these trucks were used as work trucks (often only the driver) the drivers side got a lot more use than the passenger side. If you can find a 4door car from the 60's often the rear door will have an interchangable relay. For you 72 door guys the newer vans have relays with the longer shaft to clear the plastic door panels.