Well today I got tilted! If you want to add a van tilt column to your truck than read this thread first http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=147927 because that is what I did last night before starting mine today. I also read this one http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=191143 and followed it for shortening the column at the same time. It is so nice haveing a few inches more (yea go ahead and say it!) with a stock bench seat. After reading these two threads you will be able to follow my build today.

The main thing I did different with mine was I keeped the truck P/N safty switch so I did not have to re-wire anything plus I think it is much easier and cleaner then trying to cut a small slot down inside a tube with out the right tools. So what I did was bent a small piece of sheet metal (after trying to cut a slot with out the right tools) that will act like the stock truck column to operate the P/N safty switch. I also only moved my P/N switch about 4" since I pushed the column forward a few inches. But other than those mod's I followed the above threads and it all worked out great.

I included a few pics so you can see the differents in length of a van tilt (black) and a stock truck column (tan). Also you will see the different mounting slots and the different P/N switches.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here are the rest of the column pics. Sorry I did not get more or better pics of the tab I made but once you pull off your P/N switch from your truck column you will see what needs to be done.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well in a wierd change of events I was able to get my old bench seat back from a guy here in town so my interior is just about done. I also pulled off the GMC tailgate plate in hopes I would find a chevy gate under it but no luck:rolleyes: I want to replace the GMC with LFD so now I need to figure out a way to press some letters that I can graft into the gate. :) Any ideas! I want the same style of letters as stock so nothing fancy.

So I spent $75.00 for the column and a bout 8hrs doing the swap and finishing up the interior work that I started a few days ago.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Build total $967.64
And 43hrs

Cutting a "L" from a chevy tailgate, a "F" from a ford, and a "D" from a dodge and grafting them together would be more unique. :)

looks like some good progress man. Wish my truck was here so i could keep working on it whenever i had time.

Well in a wierd change of events I was able to get my old bench seat back from a guy here in town so my interior is just about done.

Congrats, on the seat find. Does these mean your other seats are available? Good luck with the tailgate stamping. That will look really cool.
Brandon

No I'm holding onto the seats for now because they may still go in but for now the bench will work and be safe and let me focus on other things that need to get done. But if they are not needed they will head your way (but don't wait up for them:) ).

Kevin
LFD Inc.

The only thing I can think of for LFD on a tailgate would be find a Chevrolet tailgate and use the 'C' and have to do a little creative editing and make it a 'D' if you turn it backwards, use the stock 'L' off the same gate, as well as use one of the 'E's to make a to make a 'F' if you also do a little modifying to the gate. I'd say thats about your only option because if you go trying to fit different letters off different gates, the fonts or sizes arent going to match up.
Brandon

I am looking into having a board member CNC out some letters with the negitives so I can make a small press for the letters I need. I have a 45ton hydro press that I think will do the job if I set up the press plates right.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

greath thread .
keeping an eye on this one

Another idea - with all the cool work you are capable of, this might work... cut out some steel letters (simple ones) (double or triple them depending on what you want for relief depth) - tack them onto a sheet, lay your panel over it and "beat" it down over the letters. Grind, sand, prime, paint, grin.

it might work if you get the tollerabnces close to perfect you never get the edges the same that way around and it will be a couple of days work to make them crisp enough to work i have seen it done youre way with a chevy bowtie they didnt used a press just 2 big bolt to press the 2 die's with the metal in between together later they welded small plates in the hole t finish ....... the positive/negative CNC die thing he's having made will work best and can be hardened and used often as long as he has them lined up in the press and he be able to use it as a logo on other projects

Use a blank t/gate and get someone to paint or sticker your logo. More options that way.

You could air brush it.

Yes I could air brush, sticker, paint but then it is not me doing it! I like steel and will go that route.

DHL stopped by with a gift for the build from Porterbuilt in Mesa AZ. This is his donation to the project.

Thanks Nate!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Ok this was the true test of how we are doing, I took the wife to the doctors and shopping for food in our "Low buck truck"!
But first we get to the doctors office and as soon as we get out of the truck an older guy stops and asks if it is a 72? I say no it is a 70. He says nice and walks on:) This is one reason I like old vehicals!

Ok so once we get home I asked for her brutal opinion and her it is.

She likes the overall interior look and feel but really liked the new look of the dash with the cd player and cluster. She thought it ran well and drove nice.

She did not like the exhaust (nor do I) because it is way too loude. Bad headers and stage two flowmasters that dump right under the cab:(

What she would like to see done is new weather stripping around the doors, new headliner, new exterior trim, lowered a few inches, shorten the bed and make it quieter.

As far as being quieter on the inside I did some more testing with the Bituthane material and it will not be going in the truck. I did some heat tests and it melts way too sone. I know people had mentioned that but I wanted to see it for my self. I have been looking on some other sites about a paint on liner like Lizard skin but way less money. Should be able to do the entire inside of the cab and doors for about $50.00 or you can go with the lizard skin for about $160 or their abouts. Here is a link http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html

Kevin
LFD Inc.

interesting link the latexpaint is rubber and the glasbeads will make it a puffy and verry dead material you might even get better results using a tube latex kit mixed in with the latex paint to get it thicker so you can aply more in one go

Well the brown man struck again!
I decided to not show how to build your own hidden hitch after checking into material costs and really thinking if I wanted the liability of knowing if it was not built right and a problem arose that it was my link that started it. So I contacted ECE to find out more about their kit that they sell. It sounded good and complete and for $209.00 I thought it might be the way to go. I went ahead and ordered one and let me tell you it is well worth the $ and then some. I don't know how some of these companys can build this stuff and only charge what they do. I thought at first it might just be a hitch that works on some other vehical that they get cheap and re-sell. But after looking it over and seeing their Logo stamped right into it I knew they definetly had them custom made. Part # is 906-6772BH PU if any one is interested. It comes complete with all needed mounting hardware, Lic. plate flip kit, Reciever hitch and even a plug and play trailer wiring flat 4 plug. Here are a few pics.

It will be installed in the next few weeks because my curent tow vehical is being sold to fund the wifes new mini van:lol: I wish my mom had a mini van like this one! 07 chevy TrailBlazer SS 6.0 V8 395HP/400FT TQ:metal: :metal:


Kevin
LFD Inc.

that's a pretty sweet mini van

Hi Rocrln,

I drove past your house on the way to my inlaws and saw that cut up truck on the trailer. I was hoping it had a 5 lug trailing arm rearend under it, but saw it was a 6 lugger. Now that I know that your a member of the site maybe next time I drive by and see your out i'll stop. My mother inlaw suggested my wife and I should have bought your house before it was sold to you. But I didnt want to live so close to the bar. If I would have known it had a shop behind it I would have bought it. I'm gonna sell my house soon in Williams and look for a house in Winters. Theres a nice little white house on Abbey st. that i'm intrested in. You said that you have a 71 that is body dropped? I'll definetly want to see that!

Tony from Norcal.

Can we see some pics of the minivan when ya'll get it.
That hitch does look pretty nice though, pretty impressive. Do you know when you plan to do your door windows (I think you said you planned to)? I am getting ready to do mine and I'd like to see/hear what it's like to go through it.

AA

[QUOTE=Rokcrln;2007446]Well in a wierd change of events I was able to get my old bench seat back from a guy here in town so my interior is just about done. I also pulled off the GMC tailgate plate in hopes I would find a chevy gate under it but no luck:rolleyes: I want to replace the GMC with LFD so now I need to figure out a way to press some letters that I can graft into the gate. :) Any ideas! I want the same style of letters as stock so nothing fancy


have you seen the work from pakistan on pirate?
some decent hand fab

Hi Rocrln,

I drove past your house on the way to my inlaws and saw that cut up truck on the trailer. I was hoping it had a 5 lug trailing arm rearend under it, but saw it was a 6 lugger. Now that I know that your a member of the site maybe next time I drive by and see your out i'll stop. My mother inlaw suggested my wife and I should have bought your house before it was sold to you. But I didnt want to live so close to the bar. If I would have known it had a shop behind it I would have bought it. I'm gonna sell my house soon in Williams and look for a house in Winters. Theres a nice little white house on Abbey st. that i'm intrested in. You said that you have a 71 that is body dropped? I'll definetly want to see that!

Tony from Norcal.

My wife thinks it's cute that I have my first stocker!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[QUOTE=Rokcrln;2007446]Well in a wierd change of events I was able to get my old bench seat back from a guy here in town so my interior is just about done. I also pulled off the GMC tailgate plate in hopes I would find a chevy gate under it but no luck:rolleyes: I want to replace the GMC with LFD so now I need to figure out a way to press some letters that I can graft into the gate. :) Any ideas! I want the same style of letters as stock so nothing fancy


have you seen the work from pakistan on pirate?
some decent hand fab

Is he the guy and building the new jeeps out of the old cj7's and wranglers? If so he is awesome!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

And yes the "Mini van" is bought and I should get it home by Thursday for full pic's! My wife did her test drive tonight before our meeting and she almost pitched it sidways pulling out of the dealership! She rocks!!

:confused: door relay:confused:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's the part GMC Paul's website (and others I've seen) refer to the part that your door handle is connected to.

http://gmcpauls.com/My%20Pictures/67-72doorlatchcontrol.jpg

Can we see some pics of the minivan when ya'll get it.
That hitch does look pretty nice though, pretty impressive. Do you know when you plan to do your door windows (I think you said you planned to)? I am getting ready to do mine and I'd like to see/hear what it's like to go through it.

AA

Yes I have all the parts for doing the doors but not the time right now. It will be a good few month's or so before I get to that part. I was planning on doing it as I tour the truck down for frame shorting and paint. ECE wants a write up for th event re-builds so it will be a detailed section of the build.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Do you still have the cab wireing harness?

I know it's gonna be a little while before you get back on this project.

But......How long before you think you'll get to installing the hidden reciever hitch? I would love to see pic's. If it's gonna be a while, I'll start a new thread, to see if anyone has this installed and willing to throw pics up.

Check out this link:

http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.aspx?category=Go%20Farther-2

Here's mine:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=162641

Rob,

Thank you for the links.

Yes I still have teh dash wiring and I will be doing the hitch soon since I am selling my PS to fund the wife's "Mini Van";)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Let me know if there is any thing you need If I have it I would be happy to bring it up.At your conveinance No pressure you sound like you got your hands full!

Nice thread, waiting for the rear drop as I also have leafs.

Let me know if there is any thing you need If I have it I would be happy to bring it up.At your conveinance No pressure you sound like you got your hands full!

Just let me know when you want to head up. PM me with info.



Ok so here is an update I plan on starting with the bed shorting in the next few weeks. I need to find a set of SWB upper and lower trim so I can lay it out and drill the mounting holes so I can do body work and paint it before it goes back on. Then I will shorten the frame, do the rear flip kit, load leveling bags, hidden hitch and the rear burb gas tank. Then I plan on painting the rear of the cab as well while the bed is off. I will also install the front coils, spindles, new rotors and repack the wheel bearings.

So I need a set of upper and lower bed trim for a 70 but if their is a long bed set of uppers available I will trim them down and save a few bucks and re-use my LWB lowers and shorten them as well. I also need a set of stock truck ralleys with caps and rings in the stock grey finish. I would like to run 7's in the front and 8's in the rear. So if anyone has any of this stuff laying around let me know. Also if you have anything that you would like to see done while I am at this let me know as well and I will see how it fits into this project.

Stay tune things should start up soon.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I will have plenty of pics but shortening the floor should be fairly simple. Take 8" off the rear section and 12" out of the front. You will want to cut the front section so it includes one of the bed mount braces since their is an extra one on LWBs. I plan on doing mine with out pulling the bed apart because it will make for a faster and easier job and it will be getting line-X'd when done.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Very interested in the bed floor shortening, as well as laying out the trim hole locations. I have new bedsides and will install upper and lower trim, just looking for the best way to lay it out. My longbox metal floor is super straight while my short metal floor is rustfree but dented. Probably easier to shorten the long floor than restore the short?

Looking forward to an expert to show me the best way.

Keep the threads and pics coming!

Here is a teaser for the addits! This is 1hr 20min into the bed chop. I have step by step pics that I will post tonight if I have time.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here we are at 3hr 20min:) With a little push and pull as the sides went on the body line is perfect! Time for lunch and then the front!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here we are at 3hr 20min:) With a little push and pull as the sides went on the body line is perfect! Time for lunch and then the front!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

:jdp: I can't even make a mess in 3 hours, much less cut a bed! nice...

Why don't you leave it like that, it looks pretty cool.:hm:

Why don't you leave it like that, it looks pretty cool. :P

It reminds me of how Ford does their longbed trucks.

One of my buddys did the front cut first and put the bed back together for mock-up purposes without cutting the back and it looked great. It was almost a disappointment when he finally did the back cut.

Somebody else here in town cut well over 12 inches out of the back only. Nothing was done in front of the rear wheels. It looked terrible. Looked like a stubbed nose in reverse. It was ugly. But somebody did it on purpose.

Unreal

I finally figured out the blue piece. That must be the blue taped piece that you wanted to remove and used as a cut line I assume allowing for cut thickness. Plasma cutter, grinder, saw or ? I can't wait for pics.

Very nice work. Hey Bob, you didn't happen do get any pics of your buddy's truck with the front cut alone did you? I've been considering doing that for a while and would like to see a real example.

LFD's LWB to SWB in one simple cut!
Yea right..



Well I had an idea what I was getting my self into but still had my reservations about it. Once I got into it and figured out how I was going to go about it I found it was fairly easy and went real smooth.

First thing is to remove your bumper and mark the holes that the bolts go thru for a later step. Then remove any trim that you may have on the truck. Pull off the tailgate as well to lighten things up.

You will be taking 8" off teh back end and 12" out of the front of the bed for a total of 20".

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Next you need to lay out for your cuts. I came 8 3/4" forward of the rear stake pocket and then 8" past that. Then use a square and transfer the marks down to the bed floor. I then used a 6' level for a straite edge and scribed lines accross the bed floor. Now take some scrap metal and put in a brace from side to side and one at an angle from top to bottom to keep the bed side from moving. I set this about 5" past my last cut mark so it will be left on the bed once I cut the tail section and the 8" srip out. The end of the bed will keep its shape and line right back up as long as their is no damage to begine with.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I use 2" painter tape for laying out large cuts like this. Just put the tape on nice and flat and it will follow the body lines then place the next piece right up to the edge of the first one. Repeat this 2 more times and you will end up with just under 8" ( I guess the tape is a hair under 2"). I used a 4" cut off wheel that is 1/16" thick. Now when you start your cut just keep the blade right along the out side edge of the tape. The more carefull you are here the faster the next few steps will be. I found it was easier to first cut the inside first then the out side. Once you have cut it all apart then remove the bed bolts, unhook the wiring and lift it off.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Now repeat and remove the next section of bed that can be tossed in the garbage. Next you will need to layout the new marks on the frame for the bumper bolts, bed mount and the new end of the frame. Drill out all these holes to the proper size and then cut off the end of the frame and get it out of your way. I used some pieces of angle and a few clamps to hold the bed end in place while I put the bed bolts back in place. But first I took a small grinder and just removed the paint off the edges with out removing any metal.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

If yours is like mine you will have some spots that are tight. This is good because it will let you cut a nice even gap for welding. Remember when but welding sheet metal you want a gap about the same thickness as the base metal that you are welding. In the case of out trucks that is about 1/16" or the same thinkness as the cut off wheel you will be using. As you see my bed floor is tight in the middle so I ran the cut off wheel right thru the tight spots and made this nice weld gap. You will do the same thing on the out side of the body as needed. Once the bed fits how you want it tack it in place. I first tacked the outer bed rail to make sure it was just were I wanted it. Then I moved to the inside bed floor corners.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I like to use these panel clips to hold things in place. I found mine at a harbor freight tool store but I know EastWood sells them but they are pricey from them. Find a few sopts that have the gap that you want and install the panel clips and tighten them up. You will do the same gap cutting on the out side of the body that you did on the inside. Once the gap is cut just how you want it then install more panel clips starting at the bottom body line and working your way up. Once I got tward teh top I found the top body line was not as far off as I thought it would be. Before tacking anything on the out side together take a straite edge and make sure the body is flat for atleast 12" over your cut.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Starting with the bottom place your tack weld about 1/2" from each side of each panel clip. Then when you get up to the top body line you will need to place a very small screwdriver in the gap and flex the metal in the direction you want it to go. Do this in little amounts at a time so you do not streach the metal. You want to change the curve ever so slightly! Once you have done this and the body stays were you want it and is flat then tack it in place about every 2" apart. Repeat for the other side. Do the same thing for the floor but panel clips are not needed unless you plan on painting and polishing your bed floor. I will be doing some form of a spray in or roll on bed liner so I did not spend as much time on the floor as I did the outer body. For the front I had to deal with the old gas doors. This added more tape and cut time but it is still the same process as the back.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Now you can cut off the braces you have on the rear and add them to the front. Place them so that once you have cut out the section it is left in the bed near the wheel wells. The front of the bed will holds its own shape. The rear is about the same as the front. I had to jog my cut line over abit to make up for the gas door hole. I could not just do a straite cut thru the gas door because it would have hit the front stake pocket and the front bed support. I came 8 3/4" from the rear edge of the front stake pocket and then another 12" for the section that I would remove. Tape it off the same way as you did the front including the inside of the bed and the floor. Just the out side was joged and the inside stayed strate. I found it easier to make a cut on the inside of the bed from side to side near the bottom so when the out side was cut I could just lift off each side one by one then pull the floor out. Then unbolt the front bed mount bolts and remount it on the bed mount that the factory put right were we needed them.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

OOOOOP'S I do not know what happened but I did it on both sides. No bit deal I will just cut a filler strip and tack it in;)

Now everything you will do for the front of the bed will be just like the rear. Once it is all tacked you can start welding it up by adding tacks between each existing tack. Do not try and weld one section in one shot or you will have a very good chance of warpage. I only tacked each area so I would be able to tack one panel and move to another while the first one cools and by the time I work my way around all four side I am ready to start all over.

I do not have any finished shots of the bed side because I ran out of .023 welding wire before I could finish. So in the next few days as time allows I will get back to this and finish it up. I still need to fine the gas tank that I will mount under the bed and install the gas door so I can finish body work. Once the body work is done I will pull it off for paint and then cut the 12" out of the frame and do the flip kit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

And the last shot for now! Before and after.

Here is a post that I came accross awhile ago and it is a great how-to on shortening the frame. I will be doing mine just like this but not for a month or so. Like I said I will be using this thread for my frame cut so I though I would link to it and not try and reinvent the wheel.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=123624

Kevin
LFD Inc.

great posts man. you make it look really simple to do.

question: why do you have to jog your cut line on both sides of the bed? I understand the gas door side, but couldn't you keep the other side straight?

again, great work. I'm sure there are many people here that will find these last few posts, and the entire thread very useful!

Kevin,

Seeing that you are getting experienced cutting bed sides and floors makes me want to cut the crew cab bed down like the extended cab bed is and taking about 18 inches out of the front of the bed to make it a little bit easier to drive. I still need the back long to get the tank in there.

damn dude, i havent been keeping up on your thread.






there is a set of short fleet bed sides leaning against a barn on winters road, in front of the 47-54 truck.

Not bad for an old guy!!!!!

damn dude, i havent been keeping up on your thread.






there is a set of short fleet bed sides leaning against a barn on winters road, in front of the 47-54 truck.
Yeh but their is a hole chopped in the rear of the drivers side conecting to the marker light!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Not bad for an old guy!!!!!

The way I see it is, I woke up this morning so I already had a good start to my day so why not try somthing new:rolleyes:

You young kids waist way to much time on these computer thingys. Get a job, make somthing of your life!!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,

Seeing that you are getting experienced cutting bed sides and floors makes me want to cut the crew cab bed down like the extended cab bed is and taking about 18 inches out of the front of the bed to make it a little bit easier to drive. I still need the back long to get the tank in there.

I tried telling you that when your truck was still here! Now the waiting list is about 2yrs out:crazy:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

question: why do you have to jog your cut line on both sides of the bed? I understand the gas door side, but couldn't you keep the other side straight?



Simple I had a gas door on both side's:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I tried telling you that when your truck was still here! Now the waiting list is about 2yrs out:crazy:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well, its a small job compared to the other work that it needed. Besides, I know you really, really, really want to do it. And the bed was still here at my house when you had it. I also have the two new bedsides here to replace the damaged ones on the truck.

Simple I had a gas door on both side's:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

ahhh ok.... i didn't see the P side one when i first looked at the pics. After a closer look, i see what appears to be door #2 under the painters tape. :cool:

first off, let me say Thank You, as this is something i've been considering, (due to the shortage and cost of SWB bed sides) But i hadn't seen anything with this much detail...

you're posts leave me with a question though...
would there be any special considerations to be made if the bedsides are off the truck? would they be more prone to warping?

I'm not cutting the floor, and will end up completely dissasembling the bed for storage purposes, and am not sure if i should cut them before removal.

Thanks for the great info, as always :c2:

I found it very easy to do them while they wer still bolted to the head board, floor and while the floor was bolted to the frame. If they were not bolted down I would think you will have some problems. Between the head board, wheel tubs and rear posts it makes for a very solid system so cutting it all loose could move around a bit. Good luck.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I found it very easy to do them while they wer still bolted to the head board, floor and while the floor was bolted to the frame. If they were not bolted down I would think you will have some problems. Between the head board, wheel tubs and rear posts it makes for a very solid system so cutting it all loose could move around a bit. Good luck.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's kinda what i figured.

Thanks

Ummmm, awesome Kevin! :metal:

Get a job, make somthing of your life!!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.


My mom used to say the same thing!:hm:

Kevin,
i can only say good things about your work.... but i can say "better" things
about the fact that you share..

I have done this with a Circular saw...... i would bet the circular saw is faster.. but sure makes a lot of noise....
i like the way u did it..
thanks

Rich

I have done this with a Circular saw......

:eek:

wow...
I don't think i have the cajones to go near my truck with one o dem spinny saws!!!

:lol:

i used an old cirulair with a anglegrinderdisk in it to cut up caravans metal copper wood doesnt matter it goes trough , jou do need to presss down on it or it wil try to push itself out

Kevin,

It's looking really good...I've had to catch up on your whole post over the last few hours..(haven't been on the board in a while)...

Anyways...I don't suppose you could ship me that front section of bed sheet metal you cut out?:rolleyes: ..the PO of the bed I got tried to do his own LWB to SWB conversion..and didn't get the measurements quite right:crazy:

So either I add...or look for another bed...which down here in Florida..well that's about pointless....

Anyway..keep up the good work, it's nice to see a post for the average builder out there..who can't afford to spend thousands and just wants a nice daily driver....:metal:

Kevin,

It's looking really good...I've had to catch up on your whole post over the last few hours..(haven't been on the board in a while)...

Anyways...I don't suppose you could ship me that front section of bed sheet metal you cut out?:rolleyes: ..the PO of the bed I got tried to do his own LWB to SWB conversion..and didn't get the measurements quite right:crazy:

So either I add...or look for another bed...which down here in Florida..well that's about pointless....

Anyway..keep up the good work, it's nice to see a post for the average builder out there..who can't afford to spend thousands and just wants a nice daily driver....:metal:


Sean,

I bought a parts truck and may have what you need. I won't know until I pick it up (end of month or first of next month). If it's what you need, you can have it. Shipping will definitely be cheaper, or you can make a road trip to P-Cola.

Kevin,

Anyways...I don't suppose you could ship me that front section of bed sheet metal you cut out?:rolleyes: ..the PO of the bed I got tried to do his own LWB to SWB conversion..and didn't get the measurements quite right:crazy:

So either I add...or look for another bed...which down here in Florida..well that's about pointless....

:metal:

If Hart Rod has them it would be much cheaper but if not let me know.

Hart_Rod
I just remembered why I still have two bed sides laying in my side yard. You needed a few pieces off of them. Sorry it sucks getting old as Porter keeps pointing out to me:cool: Do you still need them?

Kevin
LFD Inc.