Kevin,

No worries, :). I think I have a set found locally. Hopefully, Seanu can use what I have left. Thanks,

R

Kevin,

No worries, :). I think I have a set found locally. Hopefully, Seanu can use what I have left. Thanks,

R

Sounds good I want some spy pics as it takes shape for a future idea I have for a family build.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Sorry it sucks getting old as Porter keeps pointing out to me:cool:

Just wait til that little one is running around... then you will really feel old!:)

Just wait til that little one is running around... then you will really feel old!:)

So if I have one in high school, does that mean I'm really, really old?!

So if I have one in high school, does that mean I'm really, really old?!


Ancient!:lol:

Sounds good I want some spy pics as it takes shape for a future idea I have for a family build.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here's a spy pic, :lol: .

Yep much better!

Well I only had a few minutes tonight to work in the shop but I had enough time to build 2 more steel saw horses so I will pull the bed in the next day or so to start checking the frame and getting my next mods lined up. It will include a gas tank, air bags just for load leveling, compressor and tank (pulling into a station with a trailer is a pain!), shorten the frame 12", brake lines and Driveline than new exhaust!

Stay tuned..

Kevin
LFD Inc.

its looking good..lover to read your posts..lets me know what im not going to do by myself..lol man i need to learn to weld..lol

Well I think I have the youngest kid (with my wifes help) working on these trucks:lol: My son Taylor is the one in the yellow circle (about 6 months conceved:lol: )
We got the bed off so I could start sizing up the frame for the tank and choping.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

congrats!!!! i felt the same way when my little one showed up. she likes daddy's green "noisy" truck...

rodstored-72

congrats!!!!

has anybody ever tried cutting down the bed sides w/a plasma cutter. i see everyone uses a cutoff wheel.

Slots look sooo good on these trucks.

has anybody ever tried cutting down the bed sides w/a plasma cutter. i see everyone uses a cutoff wheel.

Here are my thoughts on that one. I have a very nice plasma and I still used the cut off wheels. I feel I have more control and if you use very thin wheels you will get alot less heat and that means less warpage. Also you will have a much better edge to work with for welding back up. I only use my plasma for rough fitting body parts then use the cut off wheel or snips for fine fitment.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I personally have never had any luck cutting thin metals with a Plasma, maybe setting were wrong for thing stuff, but it'd cut 3/8" like it was cool.
Brandon

used to use a plasma cutter on thin steel and zinkprimed steel at that .... lot of green smoke and headacke and it gave burs too like when you cut steel with gas , you need to move the nozle pretty quick with the thinner steel so a guide would be nice
a anglegrinder is cheaper and in my opinion give cleaner cuts as long as you can get the machine to where you need to be .

Well yea, I've tried it, but I always overrun the cut or end up with a big hole in it from too much heat.... Haha. You know what, that was with a torch I was thinking about!!!! Nevermind. LMAO
Brandon

Well I took a personal day today:o While the owner of Lemon Drop was hard at work finishing up the misc block sanding in the shop I was out side working on Low Buck. I finished up the bed welding and then started pulling dents, their sure were alot of them! I thought this bed was rough but not this rough! Well after a few hours of pulling and filling it started to get with the program. I have a few hours left with the long board and then it will be ready for a nice heavy coat of high build primer. Here are a few pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nice work trucks really starting to come together gotta love the fun builds..

The bed is ready to go back on the frame once it has been cut down. I still have some blocking and touch up on the bed but right now it is in better shape then 98% of beds out their. Sure feels good to have this part done.
So I spent an 8hr day cutting down the bed and tacking it back together. Another 8hr day doing body work and 3hrs today sanding and primming. Altogether I have spent about $150 on sandpaper, body filler and primmer.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

$1117.64
62hrs

are there any concerns with the top body line not matching....looks like you did a great job but what did it take to make those lines flow so well?

It took some hammer and dolly work but they should be real nice once it is done.

Kevin Lewis

Did you by chance take any inside the bed? Looking good BTW!

Here are some inside bed shots but goes easy on me because that is just welded and ground smooth. I do not plan on any body work to the inside because I think I want to get it line-x'd. This is going to be a work truck after all.

Now after more thinking about it the out side will be very good but that is with alot of metal and body work. Would I do this on a show truck and expect it to be flawless, No. But for a super clean street truck it will be great. Also I am not trying to fool anyone with this being a short bed. It is a Low Buck build that will turn alot of heads when going to the shows (staying out in the parking lot) or pulling my trailer. If I wanted to fool people first (I would not post it on here) I would weld up the center stake pockets and also use patch panels for the front quarter panels because the wheel opening is a little different at the leading edge.

So if you want to try this don't expect it to turn out like nothing was ever done unless you are good with a hammer, dolly, filler and sanding blocks. Even then I would not do this to a high end build but then again that is why this is called "Low Buck".

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Whoa! You of all people dont have to stand up for your work. Your work says more than you already can. I just wanted to see how hard it must have been to weld both sides. I have to add that your cover up work turned out better than anything most could hope for on the exposed side. I also remember you saying you were going to line it & just wanted to prove to myself that you would make it look pretty invisible before it even gets lined. Great work, just as I figured...


Thanks for the pics too...

Ok I am looking for some input form everyone. As far as side molding goes I am not sure if I want to shave it off since mine is not in good shape and being a low buck build I do not want to spend money on new trim. That also leads into the paint, two tone or one solid color. When this truck is done it will be my shop truck and I am going for a look like this one from Air Ride. I just found this pic on the board but it folows right along with my thoughts on this build right down to the warn out logo's and lettering. I had planned on two tone with trim but this does add to the build price of $1400 for all new trim and $? for used trim as it comes in. What do you all think? Now is the time to start welding up holes if I go that route.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Are you thinking 67/68 trim or 69/72 style with upper and lower or just lower?

I say an epoxy primer... Black of course, no trim, and then do the patina logo thingy on the door. Or even a crisp, fresh lettering would be cool.

Are you thinking 67/68 trim or 69/72 style with upper and lower or just lower?
It is a factory CST with upper and lower so I would go that route.

I say an epoxy primer... Black of course, no trim, and then do the patina logo thingy on the door. Or even a crisp, fresh lettering would be cool.

Personaly I think the flat blace is getting a bit played out. I have thought about doing a full Patina paint job on the entire truck. Nothing like taking sand paper and scotch brite to a new paint job.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I would go with no trim to keep the cost down especially with your skills weld them holes. Then go with a flat color and logo.

Personaly I think the flat blace is getting a bit played out.

By the time you get done with the sandpaper and scotch brite the full patina will be played out as well! :lol:

I do like the air ride truck but when they are that low they look bent in the middle.

I am a factory option guy and like the upper and lower trim. I think it goes well with cargo lite and tailgate band.

I think a decent set of used trim could be put together or pimp your truck out a little with some shameless advertising and get support from some vendors for reduced/low cost 2nds or ?

Part of you "low buck" ideas are getting creative and this seems like part of a business supported project for you.

I'm confident with what ever you decide your truck will be very popular. One of the magazine editors a few years ago put together a multi colored "circus wagon" shortbed that I think was the most popular truck on the boards and drew huge attention. I think that is something I will attempt one of these days. Would save a bundle on nice body and paint!!

shave them off........

I vote weld em' up and go with a solid color I personally think it should be that way with the shop truck theme. GR8 build no matter what. RJ22

By the time you get done with the sandpaper and scotch brite the full patina will be played out as well! :lol:

Oh man, I am tried from a long night in the shop [ok, garage] and that cracks me up! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Part of you "low buck" ideas are getting creative and this seems like part of a business supported project for you.



You lost me on this one! It could just be that it is 4am but ?

Well after an hour or two of sleep I am thinking I need to keep the trim because although this is a Low Buck build part of it is to end up with a nice truck that is worth more than you have into it. I feel that a well optioned truck is worth more than a plane jane (no offence Jane) truck. That is part of the reason to start with a long bed and make a shorty out of it. Well optioned long beds are still cheaper compaired to well optioned shorts. I just went and looked at a fully loaded 72 LWB a few days ago, it was a factory complete 402 BB, A/C, tilt, auto on the column... for $1750 but I decided I need to finish a few things before getting more projects. But this same truck in a short bed I would guess would start in the $4-5k range for th esame shape. So with some time and work you end up with a nice clean truck that if you wanted to sell it you might make a few bucks. So I think the trim will stay even if that means some pieces are left off untill good ones can be had. Also I think most guys building trucks want a nice (but still cheap) paint job so this will have some shine to it as well. I will still have my Logo and info in it some how but I have not decided on just how yet.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I agree with keeping the trim. There's just something "wrong" with removing it from any 71-72 truck.

Since you're buiding this for your business, do you have any specific colors for your logo? You could use those as your paint colors. Is the copper and black your colors? A black truck with copper down the middle would look pretty sweet, or copper and white...

No matter what you do, it will be a nice ride when done :cool:

I like your idea of a fully optioned SWB truck on the cheap. (as opposed to cheaply made lol). Keep on keepin' on!

What color/colors are you thinking about painting it?

I vote keep the trim. Especially if you plan to patina the truck because the faded trim will add to the effect.

I say keep the trim, go two tone. white in the center and a dark metalic blue in the rest. Oh and a white top of course.

Is the copper and black your colors?
:cool:

No that is just plane steel on a dark pillow for the pic. I like how it turned out though.

What color/colors are you thinking about painting it?

We are thinking of white and a darker green kind of like this pic.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Are you going to keep the wheels that are on the truck now ?

Personaly I think the flat blace is getting a bit played out. I have thought about doing a full Patina paint job on the entire truck. Nothing like taking sand paper and scotch brite to a new paint job.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Hey Kevin I asked about this paint in the paint forum but what do you think of these colors?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

Maybe on color a two tone without white,just to make it different.Maybe go with a charcoal and do silver between the trim and on the roof.It would be 2 tone but not like any I have seen.

Are you going to keep the wheels that are on the truck now ?
No I am not. I have a line on a set of stock truck ralleys with rings and caps. I am running 8's in the rear and 7's up front.

Hey Kevin I asked about this paint in the paint forum but what do you think of these colors?

I have never tried those colors before?

Maybe on color a two tone without white,just to make it different.Maybe go with a charcoal and do silver between the trim and on the roof.It would be 2 tone but not like any I have seen.

Sorry I like the more factory look with my own custom touches. Even my 71 SWB with the body drop, Z-step, LT1 and tilt front end. Once it is done it will look just like a 68 two tone with every piece of factory SS trim you can get. I used John's as inspiration. I have added the front fender and hood trim as well as al the tailgate trim to mine. I also had a set of vett ralleys built in 17's as well. Here is a pic of John's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin if you're looking for a dark green, my truck is in the recent "tonneau cover thread" it's been a couple years, it's a corvette stock color('86 ??) possible called fairway green. If interested let me know, I have it written down somewhere in the bottomless pit file where I put my receipts.

thread; Has anyone seen any box covers

Kevin if you're looking for a dark green, my truck is in the recent "tonneau cover thread" it's been a couple years, it's a corvette stock color('86 ??) possible called fairway green. If interested let me know, I have it written down somewhere in the bottomless pit file where I put my receipts.

thread; Has anyone seen any box covers

Did you mean "box cover":lol: I looked last night and could not find it then today I wanted to see what a "box cover" was and their you are. Yes this color looks very nice. If you can find out just what it is I will add it to the list for my wife to look at! Do you know if it comes in the "short" version;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well I spent 3hrs today working on my frame. I drove it over to the car wash and cleaned teh frame then started getting ready to slice and dice.

I started by setting it up on jack stands on a level area of teh driveway out side my shop. I ended up needing a few more inches in height under the cab so I placed two of my stands up on a 4x6x3/8" tube and welded the stands to it. My big stands are holding up my rock crawler while my buddy barrows my 37"s for some snow runs.:rolleyes: Then I removed the extra bed mount and unbolted the rear cab mounts. Then I lifted the rear of the cab about 1/2" above the rear mount and placed a 2x4 between the frame and body. It shouold be far enough forward to be out of the cut and weld area. I then re-layed out the rear cab mounts 12" back so when the frame is welded back together I won't have to do it all under the truck. I drill it all out for 7/16 bolts and added a bolt to the top cross member hole were the bed mount was.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Next I cut off the exhaust (welded on unit:rolleyes: ), removed the 2 piece drive shaft, pluged the fuel lines and made sure everything was out of the way so I can cut the frame after work Monday. I removed the rear end as well so I can do the flip kit while the truck is down. I have decided to go with the ECE frame chanels and cut the frame at 45* angles instead of the step notch that I mentioned before. The main reason for this is because their is not alot of room to work under the cab and I can do a more accurate job this way. Plus I need new body mounts anyways so I will order it all at once.

I need to check with the drive shaft shop as to weather I will go with a 2 piece or a 1 piece. I would rather go with a 1 piece but it all depends on what kind of shape my 2 piece is in because it will be alot cheaper to just shorten what I have now. But if the joints are bad or any other peroblem than a 1 piece may come into range.

$5 for easy off, $5 in quarters for the wash and 4hrs work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1127.64
66hrs

Go Go Go Go!!!!!!!! Chop Chop Chop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

awesome thread....quick question, is there any special reason to bolt the rear cab mounts back in as opposed to just welding them back on?

awesome thread....quick question, is there any special reason to bolt the rear cab mounts back in as opposed to just welding them back on?

Good question but I don't have a good answer other then it is just real easy to transfer 4 holes back 12" and bolt it up. Also with the leverage placed on these mounts you would need to do a fare amount of welding to make sure they stay were you wanted them as opposed o a few grade 8 bolts:confused:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

No I am not. I have a line on a set of stock truck ralleys with rings and caps. I am running 8's in the rear and 7's up front.



I have never tried those colors before?



Sorry I like the more factory look with my own custom touches. Even my 71 SWB with the body drop, Z-step, LT1 and tilt front end. Once it is done it will look just like a 68 two tone with every piece of factory SS trim you can get. I used John's as inspiration. I have added the front fender and hood trim as well as al the tailgate trim to mine. I also had a set of vett ralleys built in 17's as well. Here is a pic of John's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Umm, Did you say tilt front end!!! Do you have any pictures. Is It all steel????
I neeeeeddddd more info....Please!
Thanks
Shawn

Umm, Did you say tilt front end!!! Do you have any pictures. Is It all steel????
I neeeeeddddd more info....Please!
Thanks
Shawn

It is just a forward tilt hood. Check out "project slow build" and it will give all the info.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

pics of the frame chop please??????????????? lol

Well I am a big enough man to admit that yes I have a shorty! Acually I have a few:)

I layed out the frame and some control lines to adjust things by. The factory placed alot of layout holes along the frame and when used for measure points they work great. Their were two right along side the section to be removed so I used those. They are 20" apart and what I did was scribed a line right on the back edge of each one and double checked each one for the 20" dimention at the top and bottom.

Then I layed out the 45* cuts and stabilized the rear of the frame with some scrap steel and clamps.

Then I cut the frame section out and V'd the edges for the fillet weld's. Next I used two pieces of angle to clamp the frame back together and checked my 20" mark and it was now down to 8".

I made sure the frame bottom edge and side was flush and placed a tack weld on the outer corner to hold things in place.

Then I used the braces clamped to the rear of the frame to adjust things up or down (with my free Hammer) ever so slighty to get the 8" lines right at 8" top and bottom and then I tacked the top as well.

Now I will leave it like this untill I put new cab mounts in and place the bed on sor a test fit of everything.

In the next few days I will start on the rear flip kit, shock mounts and hidden hitch.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1127.64
68hrs

And a pic of shorty:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

that was a little confusing but it looks sweet and once agin you make the rest of us feel stupid by dong all this work effortlessly. great job you a real motivator.

Looks good man. Easy fix for a long bed!!!!

Looks good man. Easy fix for a long bed!!!!



x2

hmmmmmmmmmmmm the thought keeps popping intoo my head to chop mine too , but i doubt the guys from the roadaproval thingy will accept it

I dont envy you having to work around the cab. It's hard enough to line it all back up when it's just a frame. Nice job!

Another 2 1/2 hours spent. I got the cab mounts on and the bed set into place and all lines up perfectly. So I then welded up the frame cut and had great penitration. The first two pics are of just my one out side weld and the penitration seen on the inside of the frame. I then welded up all sides and ground the out side weld about half way and I will leave it like this. I ground the inside ones flush then put a 3/16" fish plate on the inside of the frame.

I hope to start the flip kit on Wensday and I picked up a 84 blazer gas tank today for the rear of the truck. It is 25gal and will accept eather a carb or efi pick up. I need to figure out my mounts and a new rear cross member.
The only down side is that it fills from the passenger side but for $100 I just could not pass it up. What do you think?

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$61 in welding supplies and hardware
$1188.64
70.5hrs

Last two. But I forgot to add that I plugged welded al holes that the fish plate covered. I first C-clamped the plates to the frame then plug welded it then moved to the inside.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Ive missed so much of this build :whine: :whine: :whine:

Its come a long way since I last saw it, good work.

it looks cool with the bed the gray and the cab brown 2 tone, just paint the yellow part of the fender brown and leave it:metal:


and cant you flip the tank around so you can fill from the drivers side? or mod it so you can

oh and i love the wheels by the way:hm: :metal:

and cant you flip the tank around so you can fill from the drivers side? or mod it so you can

Yes but the detents in the sending unit would have all the lines facing the rear and the anlged part of the tank would face forward and not out back were it would scrape the ground on big dips. I could mod the tank but that adds extra time and money to the build and that goes against what we are trying to do. Plus the passenger side fill would through people off a bit:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I think that bronze color is cool, I've never seen a truck that color in person.
How about white top, bronze above and below mouldings and white in between the upper and lower mouldings? Since it is a "low buck build" leave the penny color and two tone with white.
Dano

I think that bronze color is cool, I've never seen a truck that color in person.
How about white top, bronze above and below mouldings and white in between the upper and lower mouldings? Since it is a "low buck build" leave the penny color and two tone with white.
Dano

It is all in bad shape and yes it is a Low Buck but it is still going to be a cool looking truck just for alot less than most. I want to make it nice enough to get it in one of th emags and give a link to this build for more site traffic;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Looking good Kevin. Glad to see you always keep safety in mind when doing these jobs so when people copy you they are keeping their safety in mind as well. On a side note, Damn you are keeping cost down on that thing.

Excellent thread! Since I'm doing a leaf to coil conversion on my '68 GMC...I was kind of hoping you were goin to work that in there!

looking good...........