On a side note, Damn you are keeping cost down on that thing.

Yea this is a hard one for me, I am a major car addict and trying to go as Low Buck as posible is like asking a coke head to use flower to save money:lol: But it has been fun and sure opens my eye's to what can be done. Shoot I have more in the trim for my 71 (Slow Build) than I do in this entire truck. But I do have a stack of parts waiting to go on that will tip me into the 2k range with the drop spindles, front coils, hitch, gas tank and misc. I hope when it is fully built and ready for the mags (:lol: ) that I will have under 5K into it all together.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Man, that's sweet. Amazing work on the bed. Really makes it look simple.

In the mags for under 5k is amazing i don't care who you are. Keven you are a real reality check to thoes of us who get over whelmed by mounting costs, and high dollar shop builds that run across the same mags. It also helps to see someone from home putting it down. (I grew up in Napa But i Spent most of my teenage years all over the lake, winters, ect...) i just might have to come by and say hi when i get back from my deployment...

i just might have to come by and say hi when i get back from my deployment...

Please do I am easy to find!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

In the mags for under 5k is amazing i don't care who you are. Keven you are a real reality check to thoes of us who get over whelmed by mounting costs, and high dollar shop builds that run across the same mags.
I couldn't agree more. It would seem many of those 'low buck' builds in magazines never really are. You do decent work too ;) .

I couldn't agree more. It would seem many of those 'low buck' builds in magazines never really are. You do decent work too ;) .

Decent?

Decent?
;) wink, wink

Did I miss where you lowered the rear sidemarker down? Or were you just waiting for someone to notice?:lol: I probebly missed it. I see you found a tank. I think this truck is going to turn out pretty cool for low buck. :metal:

Started the flip kit tonight by grinding off all the old brackets and some that made no sence. This axel had a set of spring pads on it at one point that was set up for a spring under but they were not original and had been removed already. Then they had a set of bump stop pads and part of some other bracket that was half removed already. So I removed the old spring pads, bump pads and what ever was left of odds and ends.

I then made the start of my new pads. They are 7" long for now and are made out of 2x2x1/4" tube. I will cut the length down after I am finished with mock up. The old pads are set 1/2" above the axel tube but I made these 1" from the tube to the spring giving me an additional 1/2" lower then regular pads. Also the reason they are 7" long is because I had to get them in place and add the weight of the truck so I could check for the tire being center of the wheel opening. Guess what it wasn't! I will need to re-drill the center pin holes about 1 1/2" offset from center in order to shift the axel back to center things up.

I also removed the spring center pins and the add a leaf then I installed new pins from the top down so the new spring pads will have a good mount to center on. The new ones were a hole $2.66 for the set and came with new nuts as well. I also re-used the old U bolts for now but I will get new ones before I do any test driving.

So here is were things are tonight after 2hr 30min. I like the ride height so far but I will need to get the front done, gas tank installed and set back on the ground for a good look. Then once that is done I will pull the bed back off and set up the air bags and build the C-notch so I don't bottom out.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1188.64
73hrs

Kind of a before and during shot.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Are you going to use round u bolts so that the plate and nuts will be on the bottom for clearance?

Keep up the GR8 work! Cool lookin dog too. RJ22

Are you going to use round u bolts so that the plate and nuts will be on the bottom for clearance?

No I am using the stock set up and since the axel is now on top of teh spring my plates will be on top and teh round bolts are squared off for spring fitment.

On a side note do you have any picks of your tank installed? Pics of mounts, filler neck and rear crossmember mods needed. This will help with the many ideas I have in my head right now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

For those wanting to see more on the flip kit I will be doing a full pic write up after the mock up is finished and it goes back together with bags and notches! That way I can keep all the info (pin location, C-notch dimentions, shock mounts) in one section and not spread over a few pages. I will not be working on this untill next week so it will slow down for a few days. I am heading out to the In-Laws Friday night and to the GoodGuys show on Saturday morning for some part's hunting.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,
We spoke last thursday and since then you have come along way on project L/B. It looks great, as far as paint the Green/ white would look great.

Dan

It took 1 5/8" to get the rear end centered and it looks so much better now. I will pull the bed soon and notch, bag, weld and shaft teh rear end once the front is rebuilt and back on the ground.

I pulled the front end apart and I am glad to say I found problems:metal: It had a real touchy road feel that I did not like. It turns out the entire front needs a rebuild, from the steering, ball joints, and the worst part the A arm bushings. The driver side upper and lower arms will move front to back with just arm power:( I have all the parts that I need except for the A-arm bushings, they were used on a customer build last year (Trazer). This was about 2.5hrs of work tonight.

I will also be doing a full front to rear brake job before it is back on the road.

Well here are a few pic of tear down.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1188.64
75.5hrs

Gotta love getting dirty and greasy huh!? How do you keep from getting too involved when you take the front suspension apart from sayin...let me just clean this here, let me just paint this here, I need to take this apart and clean this better, maybe I should just pull the motor real quick and hit the firewall with some quick color, man that motor is going to look like hell in there, let me take apart real quick and spray some color on it. Those valve covers look cheap now in that nice engine bay, etc. etc.:cool:

Easy, I have Project Slow Build to remind me to never do that again!!

Plus the fact that this is Low Buck helps keep me under control. I will be bug bombing the front and rear frame with Rust Tough satin black as I go.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Amen! My Blazer next to my truck reminds me of that. What pisses me off is that I have built and painted so many vehicles and motorcycles but never my own. I am too picky about letting anyone else work on my projects to speed them up but this new shop I am at, the bodymen are freaking awesome with the bodyfiller work. One of them just hand made the left quarter panel lower extension on an 88 toyota pickup. I told him it was totaled because the part is no longer available and I could not find a used bedside. He started making it from card board and used a punch to "break" the bodylines and then started away with it. I told him to wait and let me get my camera because no one would believe this. I got busy and went to lunch. When I got back he was DONE!! You wouldn't believe it if you saw it.

Amen! My Blazer next to my truck reminds me of that. What pisses me off is that I have built and painted so many vehicles and motorcycles but never my own. I am too picky about letting anyone else work on my projects to speed them up but this new shop I am at, the bodymen are freaking awesome with the bodyfiller work. One of them just hand made the left quarter panel lower extension on an 88 toyota pickup. I told him it was totaled because the part is no longer available and I could not find a used bedside. He started making it from card board and used a punch to "break" the bodylines and then started away with it. I told him to wait and let me get my camera because no one would believe this. I got busy and went to lunch. When I got back he was DONE!! You wouldn't believe it if you saw it.

Did you get pics of the hand made body part? What material did he use after the card board....sorry am I horing the thread? PM me if this isn't appropriate

Thanks!

He took an old hood and removed the inner skin and then used that flat piece of metal to work with, used a straight edge to mark the bodylines, the reason he used the chisel to punch the lines is because we do not have a metal "break" at work. He is from Honduras and said they hand made panels all of the time.

Wow, I've been looking at getting a flip kit on my longhorn but as far as I know they don't make them. Now I see why, It's a whole lot of work......but worth it.

Wow, I've been looking at getting a flip kit on my longhorn but as far as I know they don't make them. Now I see why, It's a whole lot of work......but worth it.


You know I think they do make them and even this route is not really that bad if you can weld and have some spare time.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well I got all my front end parts today and got started tearing into it some more. I got the new A-arm cross shafts and pitman arm from Marty over at "East Bay frame & axle" in SanLeandro (510-569-4285). I have delt with this shop in th epast and they are all hot rodders. I went their last week to run my frame splice by them before doing the work and they said it was right on par. I will be taking Low Buck their for it's 4 wheel alignment and I will take my camera this time. They have a cherry fully rebuilt SWB chassie hanging from their ceiling in the main shop! Also Marty told me he would do a LWB to a SWB conversion for about 1k (frame and suspention only) if any one needs a place to go.

Then off to napa auto parts for misc parts I needed like new wheel bearing, seals, frame rebuild in a can (rust tough:lol: ), parts cleaner and new front brake lines. I had all the ball joints and steering parts from my other truck that have never been put on so now it is Low Bucks turn.

I spent 2hrs tonight pulling the A-arm shafts out and removing the ball joints. I used my elect impact to get the cross shaft nuts off and my grinder and air hammer to remove the top ball joints. I then went into the shop and put about 45ton's of power to the lower joints to pop them out. Then I went to the car wash and cleaned things up before starting to spray on some gloss black.

The susp parts that I already had with the steering parts were about $450 and the new complete cross shafts and pitman arm were another $321.57 and then another $55.21 at Napa. I hope to get some time on Sunday to put it all back together.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2015.42
77.5hrs

and~

No I am using the stock set up and since the axel is now on top of teh spring my plates will be on top and teh round bolts are squared off for spring fitment.

On a side note do you have any picks of your tank installed? Pics of mounts, filler neck and rear crossmember mods needed. This will help with the many ideas I have in my head right now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Yea, that is what I was wandering, wont the u bolt plate on top cause clearance issues with the frame? and the bed floor? most of the flip kits I have installed have come with rounded ubolts to fit over the axle and then a flat U bolt plate for the bottom of the spring. But if it fits cool, thats the low buck part!! As for pics of my fuel tankI I dont have any, My truck is in Pieces righr now , I can say I removed the rear X member and the spair tire bar, and used my hitch as a new rear X member. The tank fit well and I never had any trouble. I welded two pieces of 1" tubing across the top of the frame from sid to side so the tank had some thing to sit agenced and then made straps out of 2" x 1/8 steel flat stock and bolted it front to back. One side was attached to the hitch and the other to the X member that sits be hind the Axle that is at a slight angle. I hope this helps. My new set up will be a bit different but I havent finished it yet.;)
Shawn

We must have been typeing at the same time, after I posted I saw you post.On the hood of you truck is the U-Bolt setup I was refering to:lol: :metal: . Looks Like you have it covered, as always:)

skchevota~ Its about time you show up;) Yes your tank set up is almost the same thing I have been planning for mine. Rear cross is comming out and the hidden hitch is going to hold it all together. I picked up some tank strap rubbers last week to be used with 2x1/8.
What did you do for your tank fill?

Well plans have changed for my axel to leaf mounts. I had a shop (Valley Spring in Dixon) bend up some U-bolts today and they also sheared and punched my lower plates. The U bolts are 9/16" and the plates are 1/2" (I can only punch and shear up to 3/8" at home:( ) The reason for this change is that I will be making mounts for the top of the axle for my air bags to mount to and the stock pads would be in the way. The stock pads do clear teh frame so it will save you $118 for bolts like I spent today. But if you use your stock set up please atleast get new bolts and nuts! They are not ment to be reused after this many years! Be safe not cheap!!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
77.5hrs

Watching paint dry sucks but watching concrete dry is even worse. I had some patching to do today to get my shop all in shap for some up comming work. This place was built about 1915 and needed some help with the floor. I think when they poured the slab it was just a topper over alot of rock base. I had sections comming up that were only about 1- 1 1/2" thick:confused:

So while that was drying I rebuilt the front arms and here it is.
Start off by setting all your parts out along with any tools and grease that you will need. Then set the upper cross shaft in a vise. Their is not a direction you need to worrie with the uppers shafts but the lowers have a set direction you will need to follow. Slide on the grease cups with the cup end facing out. Grease up the shaft threads, cups and the end cap nuts (inside and out). Then take the A-arm and slide one side on first then the other side. Now start the end cap nuts and turn them about 3-4 times each. You want to do this even on each side so they end up just touching the A-arm with out treading into them yet. Once the nuts are almost touching each side of the arm with out threading in go ahead and start to thread one side in about 2 turns then start the other side (do not use air tools for this step). Once they are both started and even feels free go ahead and hit it with air if you want untill they are tight but the arms should still be movable. Now install the ball joints and dust caps then your zerk fittings. Just dont turn those zerks to tight:(

Now that the uppers are done move onto the bottom arms. I like to install the ball joints first because after installing the cross shafts they are double the weight to hold while pressing in the ball joints. Once the joint is seatted it is time for the cross shaft. NOTE the counter sunk hole will face the front of the truck and the shock mount faces the rear. Just follow the same steps as the upper arms for the rest of the cross shaft install. I will install these in the truck and then hit everything with the grease gun.

This only tok about 1hr 30min to complete all four:metal:
Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
79hrs

More~

And~

It is on the ground:metal: And looks hot!!! I love the stance for a all around vehical, cruises, towing, HomeDepot runs and what not. I still have the brakes to do, driveline, exhaust, gas tank, front sway bar and alignment. Then when the shop opens up I will do a very quick body and paint job.

Today I installed the 2" ECE front springs (02-6372-2f $114.00) and their 2.5" drop spindles (911-7172 $229.00) then the rear is about 6"+- due to the flip kit. I installed new wheel bearing and all new steering parts as well. This truck should drive alot better than new in a few weeks.
Another $343.00 and 6hrs to the total:hm:

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2476.42
85hrs

great work man.

do you have a parts list with numbers for your front end components? or did you just use your local napa type store for them?

DAMN, I love this truck!!! But did I miss something? Where did the wheels and tires come from? All you gotta do now is whip that cab and clip into shape and throw some pigment at it... DAMN is it lookin BADASS THO!!!! Wish I had your talents
Brandon

Thanks guys! I am very pleased with how it is turning out. The rims came from my side yard were my rottie has been pissin on them for years now:o The slotted rims did not want to fit back on over the new rotors their was a few .001 off. I have a set of stock truck rims comming from a board member when he gets a chance. They are 7's for the front and 8's for the rear.
The ones on the truck now are 15x8's rust with a touch of chrome:lol: 255/60/15's front and 275/60/15's rear.

No I do not have a parts list for the steering and suspention rebuild parts. I bought a kit about 7yrs ago for my other truck (slow build) from one of the magazine places that specialize in suspention rebuilds but I can not think of the name right now. It was about $500 for the kit but it only came with A-arm bushings not the new shaft kit like I installed in this one. I think the best place for a complete quality kit would be from ECE. I called them on a price for the A-arm cross shafts and their price was way better then what I paid but I needed them on friday so it cost me a few extra $.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Looking good but the front bumper still has me doing double takes. Change it already!!! LOL!! Tightwad.:lol:

I went out in my garage the other night, busted out the little butane torch and toasted all the black widows of my frame and thought I got a lot done. It makes me sick how much you get done. Keep up the awesome work.

great work as always, cant wait to see the next update of results

Looking good but the front bumper still has me doing double takes. Change it already!!! LOL!! Tightwad.:lol:

What ever are you talking about:rolleyes: Those are my driving light holes!

I went out in my garage the other night, busted out the little butane torch and toasted all the black widows of my frame and thought I got a lot done. It makes me sick how much you get done. Keep up the awesome work.

Their in it self is your problem, I get the black widows to help with the builds!

Well next will I will get brakes put on , finish the rear flip kit, mount the bags and install the gas tank and plum it in. Then I think I will be out of money on it for now. I only have $12.35 left:lol:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Nevermind about the PM Rockcrln, I see the tire info now.

Well I was a slacker today. Started at 6am headed down to Lowes for some wall mount lights for the shop. Then off to church at 10 and out to the shop at 12 to install the lights and misc. Then about 2pm I started on the truck and here is what I got done (or started:) )

First project was installing the ECE hidden hitch. I must say their are not very many items that I can make my self but instead I will go out and buy, but this is one of them and worth every penny! To start I clamped it in place with the end up against the lic plate holder. I had to grind off two rivits from the rear cross member for it to sit flat but this cross member wil get addessed later. Then transfer punch the mounting holes and trace the reciever tube end to the plate holder before removing the hitch to drill holes. Mark and cut the hole in the plate holder, mount the plate flip that came in the kit. Drill the mounting holes and bolt it all back up. Done deal. I just followed the directions that were provided in the very complete kit and it all worked out great. The only thing I will add to the hitch is a rattle nut. The reciever fits a bit loose and will rattle alot so I will add a nut and bolt(not done yet) to tighten things up for towing.


Kevin
LFD Inc.

The rest of the ECE Hitch~

Then I went for the C-notch! It is just a basic notch that I have done several times before and their are a few How-to's already in the how-to list by Krue. I just made the notch 2 1/4" deep and that gave me 4.5" of axel bump room before the diff hits the bed floor. I will add bump stops to the inside to keep the diff from hitting but not by much I also plan on adding some more bracing to the frame in the notch area becasue this truck will be used for towing alot!


Kevin
LFD Inc.

I LOVE THIS!! AWESOME JOB!
-Lance

Then

Then I went for the rear mounted tank. It is out of a 84 full size blazer and holds 25gals! Did I mention it was only $100 I don't know how much the 69-72 tanks cost but I know they don't hold as much and they hang down more then this one does. This tank set up is my favorite mod so far. It is as big as you can fit and keep it inside the frame. I had to remove the rear frame cross member in order for it to fit but I will be adding two cross members back in to make things stronger than they were before. Also the hidden hitch adds alot of strenght to the rear of the frame. Also I will need to do a bit of notching to the bed floor brace (the second one from the rear) and I will show what I do to keep it all stronge. I could have left the brace intacked but then the tank would be about 2" lower then what you see now. It will have two straps that hold it in place as well as a front and rear top mount that it will push up against.

This tank idea came from a fellow board member skchevota. Thanks again for the make and model.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

More tank!

love the hidden hitch, nice work on the notch to, and tank looks good to

Last pic is of the new U-bolt assembly. I still need to figure out how I want to mount the bags

This went really well today only spending about 5hrs time to the total and $100 for the tank, $120 for the U-bolts and $209 (PN#906-6772BH PU)


Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2905.42
90hrs

GR8 job Kevin. Love that big gas tank...84 blazer HUH?

I am starting to build my bed lift from your plans in welding class tomorrow.

I am starting to build my bed lift from your plans in welding class tomorrow.

Good deal! I have been using mine a few times a week since it was built.
My wife has even used it once:metal:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Hey, the tank looks good! ;) My frame has another cross member just be hind the axle and it sits at a slight angle. I think I have seen it on other leaf trucks as well but maby it was not always used. That is the other one I attached my straps to. As for the filler neck I first used a pice of 2" exhaust pipe and had it bent to go into the rear wheel well area. This would probebly be tough for you since it is lowerd. I later drilled a hole in the bed side staight out from the filler on the tank and used a stock stainless cap. I had a bit more room for routing because of the body lift. I am sure you will come up with something trick! I wanted to keep mine out of the bed because I used my truck alot and unloading it to fill up did not sound like fun..:lol:

You can get those tanks "new" (old but not used), from HERE (http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colemans.storefront/en/searchmask) for $25 plus $25 shipping. Search for Blazer and it will come up. I put one in my shorty a couple years ago. Then, to save even more money, I welded in the sender flange from the truck tank, and bent the truck's sending unit float arm to work in the blazer tank. Check it out:

Mike that tank is close but still a bit different. But for 75% less it sure would work! I need my filler to exit the side body panel because I plan on using this truck as a truck alot. I just need to hit the pick-N-pull and go import shopping:rolleyes:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Gas tank is mounted and ready for final welding then fuel lines. I made teh top front mount out of 2x2x1/8" and notched out the side for thetank to sit in their tight. Then I took the section I cut out and reversed it and welded it back in for added strength. I then set the rear mount and it is just 1x1x 3/16" and is raised up on two pieces of 1/2x1/2 for the correct spacing.

Next it was time to make the rear mounts. These need to be removable and able to go in after the tank is slid in place (with the bed already on). I used some 1/2" round tube and some 3/8" bolts. The center 2" wide section will weld to the tank strap that is made out of 2x2x1/8" and gets a rubber tank strap over it for tank protection. The front is just a long bolt welded to the strap and then slides thru a slip mount and tightens down with a nylock.

I have $32.40 in metal and hardware and another 2hrs in labor.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2937.82
92hrs

More~

Then~

In the last pic the small washers will get replaced with 3/16" thick ones to keep it from pulling thru the slip mounts. Now I will need to hammer and dolly the tank seam just a bit for some added room at full bump. With leaf springs the axel moves back as the suspention compresses more then with coil springs.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,

Here are the wheels

Sorry it took so long to get these to you brother, been putting in a lot of hours for uncle sam. Hope you can see thme ok.

nice tank progress, makes me want to do it to mine more

Cool my new wheels should be on their way very soon. I hope to get this back on the road in its current paint condition in a week or so. I have re thought the rush to paint and I am going to hold off for a bit and do a few body mods first I have been wanting to try out before one of my other builds gets under way. Plus I just need somthing to drive other than my Honda Hybrid (company owned work car) and my wife never seems to want to hand over the keys for her new SS (395hp) trailblazer:rolleyes:
So I will tear into the doors and do the rebuild kit, weld up the gas filler hole and slowly start on body mods and finish work. Then once the next customer build is done (Trazer) I will pop some paint on this pig!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Sure have enjoyed watching this project!

Kevin, on the picture of your U bolt set up with the square tube block, shouldn't the axle tube be welded to the square tube to keep the axle from spinning?

Nice work BTW. I've been learning a lot watching your build threads and was even motivated enough the other day to pull the rusty driver fender off my ride. Need to do some clean up and rust proofing before installing the new one. Then its on to the running bords and floor.

Keep pushing us to do more with your positively non-stop ambition.

HG

Kevin, on the picture of your U bolt set up with the square tube block, shouldn't the axle tube be welded to the square tube to keep the axle from spinning? HG

Yes it will once I figure out if I will run a one piece ot a two piece drive shaft. The pinion angle changes a bit depending on the type you use. But good catch!

Kevin
LFD inc.

I did not get much done tonight because we had our first Winters car show for the summer so I wanked around the corner to check things out.

What I did get done was the lower mounts for the rear bags, installed the other U-bolt kit and centered the diff up in the frame. I will try and get the top mounts done on Wensday.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin gotta love the infomative tech. I think you are one of the best on being able to follow. Keep up the GR8 work. I always love to read your posts. Enough a** kissing get back to work so we can get more ideas for our rides:lol: RJ22

I had another few hours to play tonight. My upper bag mounts finaly arived and by arived I meen I got off my arss and built them:rolleyes: They turned out well I think and I now need to decide on a drivline so I can set the pinion angle and start welding things up. For my compressor I am going to use and electric comp I have from one of my old rockcrawler's. It is the army hummer style and is good for 100psi and I have a 3gal tank froom my old ART kit that I will use as well. I still need to get a valve and switch and then it will tie into the factory air guage in my dash.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2937.82
94hrs

is that 3/16" you use for your upper bag mount? and what do you bend it with? looks awesome, i love reading your threads....amazing skills.

So you are running leafs and bags? Without trailing arms to multiply travel it seems like those would be a bit stiff back there? Is this how it's done to just use them as "helper"' bags? Nice fab as always!

is that 3/16" you use for your upper bag mount? and what do you bend it with? looks awesome, i love reading your threads....amazing skills.
Yes they are 3/16" and I have a 45ton Iron worker for shearing, breaking, punching and pressing.

So you are running leafs and bags? Without trailing arms to multiply travel it seems like those would be a bit stiff back there? Is this how it's done to just use them as "helper"' bags? Nice fab as always!
It is a leaf spring truck and the bags will be empty untill the trailer is hooked up (my extra leverage) just to level things back out. I think it will ride just fine and may even get a pound or two in the bags for normal travel. I removed the over load spring and I installed a 25gal tank in the back so I feel I added alot of weight off the rear of the axel.

We will find out in a week or two I hope:)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well no real progress in the last week or so because I am finishing up the paint on Lemon Drop then I will get this back together and on the road for now. I came home today and found a few freebee's from fellow board member cpracing1 . He like the bed chop and found it usefull for his conversion and wanted to donate somthing back. They are 15x8's for the rear and 15x7's for up front:metal: When I get around to paint they will go the green of the upper and lower body color with some thin trim rings. He also sent me some other parts but that will be a surprise once they get grafted into this project!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Good pickup on the wheels. I just went with the same setup on Ol' Blue.

AA

How does the UPS guy like the dog!:lol:

How does the UPS guy like the dog!:lol:

Otto has been introduced to him so he is fine but his temp last week never got to the portch. The guy next door had to bring it up.:metal:

Kevin
LFD Inc.