I can't say anything the others have not already said- you do great work and you fab skills are phenomenal! I would still be shaking my head back around page 3................
I really appreciate all the extra time you are taking for pics and write-ups and on top of that trying to share some parts with other members.
The only suggestion I have is for you to buy the house next door here in scenic Tenino WA. Then some of your skills could be shared even more!
Love this thread :)

I see you got ottobaun chilling on the porch. the UPS guy must really like to deliver to your house. I am glad to see your build is coming right along and it look great. keep up the good work Kevin. Tony

Awesome build Kevin!!!:metal: I've been just sitting back and enjoying the show, but now for a question. You said the compressor that you are using for the bags is military issue off of the hummers??? Where do you go about getting one?? It sounds like it's a surplus item, so I'm thinking its inexpensive, right?? I think this might be good info to add to the low-buck theme. :phat:

Awesome build Kevin!!!:metal: I've been just sitting back and enjoying the show, but now for a question. You said the compressor that you are using for the bags is military issue off of the hummers??? Where do you go about getting one?? It sounds like it's a surplus item, so I'm thinking its inexpensive, right?? I think this might be good info to add to the low-buck theme. :phat:

It came on a rock crawler that a old friend of mine built before he passed away and I purchased it from his family. It was a new item that he went in on a group buy with a few other people and if I remember right it was in the $700 range:crazy: I would go th ethe wrecking yard and swipe the compressors off a few caddy's with air suspention. Hook up two or three in line and you are set. I still may do this as the one I have is on the large side of things.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well some progress is better than no progress right? Had an hour to kill tonight so I set up the fuel lines from the new tank. Mine is a bit different because my tank is out of an 84 Blazer (full size, 25gal) that had a carb but I am using a EFI sending unit and pick up. I just pulled off the elect fuel pump (stored it for future use;) ) and bent up a 3/8 hard line into the shape of an "L" that slips into the same spot as the fuel pump did and just sits off the bottom of the tank. I added an EFI fuel filter right on the top of the tank to catch any garbage that may come out. I then added a 3/8" hard line from the filter to the old line under the cab. I just cut off the old line before the bend and put a flair on the end for the hose clamp to grab. Made my splice and added about 4gal of fuel and she fired right up after loading the fuel pump. I did not hook up the return line or vapor tube because the fuel pump on the truck does not have a return line and the line it self had rust inside it. I will cap off the return line and vapor lines up on the tank because some day this may get an EFI motor dropped into it:)

Well that is all for now:(

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2987.82
95hrs

An "hour" to spare. Yeah right! Like you have SOOO much spare time. Come spend your spare time with me!:bs:

Love the build,

Did your 3/8 line for the fuel filter have a normal 45 degree flare? Similar to a brake line? Reason I ask is because I picked up two pieces of Poly-Armour line from NAPA to use as my fuel line, already has flares and nuts... I could just add the filter in the middle to span the length of my frame...

Thanks

No it is a GM O-ring fitting. I have a real nice hydro flairing tool that will do more things than I know what to do with.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

looking good but how do you plan to access that fuel filter?

looking good.........

looking good but how do you plan to access that fuel filter?

It is tight but you can get it with the tire off and the right wrenches. If this was a carbed sender I would have placed it just in front of the tank.


Well I got the driveshaft today and it was $247.94 I had to go with a one piece shaft and it is all new except the tranny slip yoke. Turns out they figure the tube size by how long your shaft it. Mine is 62" and that works out to be a 3.5" tube size. They said a 3" might be ok but it is right on the boarder so I went with the 3.5" Also my two piece shaft was a 2.5" tube size so none of the parts would have worked and to use the two piece shaft I would have had to shorten the top half and lengthen the bottom and rebuild the entire thing. So a 3.5" all new one piece shaft was the best way to go and now I do not need to worry about it for a long time to come.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$3235.76
95hrs

What diamter would a 95" one be?! :D

What diamter would a 95" one be?! :D


hmmm, go find a flagpole and you're set!

Hey Kevin this is a great thread! I will be ordering my new driveshaft within a couple of weeks- 60.5 inch for my SWB with a short-shaft. Not sure of the cost until I take my ends in. I was told a 4" diameter would be best for the big-block.
I am impressed at how frugal you have been- and also see that you are already over $3,000. This is an expensive endeavor, but I love these old trucks!
Thanks again,

I am impressed at how frugal you have been- and also see that you are already over $3,000. This is an expensive endeavor, but I love these old trucks!
Thanks again,

Expensive:confused: My 71 has another 0 added to that number and it is not as far along as this one! I feel for what has been done and what is rebuilt or new for that price that it is cheap. It will be a 90% brand new truck when done I hope still for under 5k.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Not to speak for Windancer, but, I think he meant even doing it frugally, the $$$ starts to add up. How much money is to much? I think it depends on how you use your trucks. If you drive it like a "truck" or it's your DD, $10K to $15K is no more expensive than buying a newer truck. If it's parked in the garage as a "toy", then, yeah it's a lot of money to just be sitting there for a weekend driver. I've got about $40K in parts (not counting) labor in my 48. That's a lot of money :crazy:, but a new one would be just about as expensive and not nearly as cool :metal: . I can justify that to myself because I drive it a lot. The only way I'll get the money back out of it, will be through time and MILES.

Back to drive shafts, Kevin, the CrewCab originally had 3 drive shafts and 2 carrier bearings. :jdp: Since I'm shortening the chassis, I would like to go with 2 drive shafts and 1 carrier bearing. Any idea how I should calculate how long the driveshafts should be and where the carrier bearing should go?

Not to speak for Windancer, but, I think he meant even doing it frugally, the $$$ starts to add up. How much money is to much? I think it depends on how you use your trucks. If you drive it like a "truck" or it's your DD, $10K to $15K is no more expensive than buying a newer truck. If it's parked in the garage as a "toy", then, yeah it's a lot of money to just be sitting there for a weekend driver. I've got about $40K in parts (not counting) labor in my 48. That's a lot of money :crazy:, but a new one would be just about as expensive and not nearly as cool :metal: . I can justify that to myself because I drive it a lot. The only way I'll get the money back out of it, will be through time and MILES.

Back to drive shafts, Kevin, the CrewCab originally had 3 drive shafts and 2 carrier bearings. :jdp: Since I'm shortening the chassis, I would like to go with 2 drive shafts and 1 carrier bearing. Any idea how I should calculate how long the driveshafts should be and where the carrier bearing should go?

No idea, I get all my drivshaft info from "Driveline services of Sacramento". I was just repeating what they were telling me.:hm:

Kevin
LFD inc.

Sorry not alot but still moving forward piece by piece. Started on the brakes last night, I am replacing the wheel cyclinders, shoes, center hose, axel hard lines and adjusters on the rear. I cleaned all parts and painted the backing plates and outer drums then up front I am replacing the pads, both hoses and flushing the system. I am into parts for $175 and 2hrs down so far. The rear drums are painted and everything is back together and ready for new hard lines.

I found out my rear yoke on the pinion is warn out so now I get to replace that as well. I hope to have it up and running in the next few weeks. Sorry it is going so slow but life is moving very fast these days!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

While Lemon Drop is curing in the shop and I have a few days untill I can deliver the last of the parts I thought I would get Low Buck closer to the road. I was at the pick-n-pull I found a gas door that was not the standard shape and thought it might work out well. It is off a Mazda Miata and has a remote door release.

I started off by pulling the pass side wheel tub and found out were I wanted to mount the door for the best body curve fitment. I just kind of eye balled it and then checked the inside of the bed for any clearance problems. I then made a templet for the rough shape of the cut out and traced it to the bed side. I also added some location lines to keep things in place. These lines were also transfered to the gas door and the bed side. I then cut out the hole smaller than I would need just so the filler neck could fit in the bed side. I then traced the out side of the patch and keeped triming untill it fit. Then I welded it all in and ground it down.

Mixed up a bit of mud and put on a thin cote, let it dry and hit it with a long board and shapped it a bit. It only took a small second cote and sanded out real well. As I was doing this it was looking way off but with a little bit of tweaking it found its way. The door still needs a bit of hand tweaking and then on to mounting the door realease. I have not really messed with the filer tube yet because that will need some cutting and welding to fit its best. It will be visable inside the bed but not too much and it will be out of the way so it can still be used as a truck.

This step cost $9.50 for the door and $2.00 to get in. All of about 2.5hrs and it is to this piont and looking good if you ask me.

Kevin
LFD inc.
$3247.26
97.5hrs

Body work!

:but: It's on the wrong side though. It just isn't right. Flip it around.;)

The round door is nice though.

that looks good and the best part is its different then everybody else

I like the fuel door. Nice job!

very nice

when you get a chance will you post some more pics of your truck all back together, im thinking about cutting a long bed down now.

Thanks guys! I did not get a chance to do much tonight but I still did get some done;) The fill tube is done but I still have a cover to make for the wheel well to keep the dirt from flying in. I will have a vent tube hooked up to keep the tank from burping and shutting off the gas pump.
I will add a bolt in the fill tube bracket just under the wheel well to keep it all in place.

As far as more complete pics, the truck has not moved since the frame was cut so any more pics would just be coppies of what is already on here.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side:lol:

RJ22

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side:lol:

RJ22

:agree:

the fill tube isnt gona be in danger by a load is it?

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side:lol:

RJ22
I just hope it is not that one time I am out of gas as I coast up to the pump!



the fill tube isnt gona be in danger by a load is it?

No plus it is getting a cover that will help with any load shift if it were to happen.
I agree it is not the best set up but for a total of $9 and some time I can not copmplain too much. Alot of the things I am doing on this one will get refined on the next one;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin I can't add any compliments everyone else has not already said for both this project and lemon drop as well.I don't know where you get the time or energy for not only the projects but taking care of a home and family too not to mention all the tutorial comments and photo's you post to aid everyone else is just absolutely amazing............As a footnote, I saw some guys asking what the metal cost to build the cab/bed lift and the tilt cab support. I bought both sets of plans a few weeks ago, and just picked up all the metal today. I had the shop cut all the metal to size with the proper angles with a power hack saw( they charged about $60 to do it)for both projects to save me the aggravation and mess of the chop saw. All the metal, grade 8 hardware and cutting came to $475 which is money well spent.All I have left to buy are the wheels.So, I will be busy welding the next few days and can then put some of your other ideas to work on my 72........thanks for your expert guidance....you are the best!

Hey now don't forget about my full time 40hr a week job that is 80 miles from home as well:lol: Thank you very much! I enjoy what I do and if things go right (if they are ment to be) I will be doing this full time in the near future. Then I can really get some of my other ideas out their for all to see.

On your tip and flip do your self a favor and use casters that will put the bottom of the frame at least above your engine hoist. This way you can roll your engine hoist right under the tip and flip dolly and set the cab down. I did not do this on mine (I had not designed the lift yet) and I need to put the extention legs on the dolly to set the cab down or lift it off. It still is not a big deal but one more step that takes up a few extra minute of our sp[are time. Good luck on the build of the toys, you will find it is money well spent like I have.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Thanx for the tip on the wheels for the tip & flip I will keep that in mind when I shop for them in the next few days

hey bud, its been a while since i checked in on your build, looking great, i like the filler cover.

i see you got the steel wheels you wanted, still want to sell the mag style aluminums?

Kevin, Just wondering, on the frame and bed shortening did you use mig or tig or both for welding the bed and frame? Bill

hey bud, its been a while since i checked in on your build, looking great, i like the filler cover.

i see you got the steel wheels you wanted, still want to sell the mag style aluminums? YEP!

Kevin, Just wondering, on the frame and bed shortening did you use mig or tig or both for welding the bed and frame? BillI used a 220V mig with .035 wire on a 25/75 gas mix

Kevin
LFD Inc.

ill try to get up to the tuesday night car show in winters, i still have your phone # so ill give you a call sometime in the day.

finally cought up on this build..looks sweet..your doing great work..and are an inspiration to the rest of us..thank you for taking the time to show the rest of us what to do..
billy

Well rounding the corner and heading home (for now)!
I have had a few hours this week to work on the truck so I can get it out of the shop for the next customer build comming in this week end.

I was finishing up the brake system (new calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, all rubber lines and hard lines on the rear diff) by putting on the new master cylinder when I noticed the kinked front brake line. I had to cut that section out and re-flair the old end, then make a new jumper piece using the old tube nut for the top end. I sure am glad I bought a nice hand held hydro tube flairing kit last year for my rock crawler it has so paid for it self:) I also had to replace the rear diff lines due to the axel flip.

I then painted the rear frame just so it would look better and be cleaner to work on in the future. I painted the new gas tank as well for a little bling:lol: I just used god old Rust Tuff rattle can paint, I found it has the best coverage and a great spray tip for rebuild in a can.

Now I am working on the air lines for the rear bags. I am going with 1/4" hard lines because I don't know yet what I am going to do for the exhaust so I did not safe running plastic line plus I think hard line is a better set up for hard mounted (non moving parts) air systems. I still need to mount the compressor and tank and find a valve for opperation. For now I may just mount two ball valves for fill and dump so I can get it up and running.

I hope to have it together this week end so I can get the new customer build (project TRAZER) in the shop and then all work will stop for a litle bit. My wife is going to be a bit early with our first child (Taylor Andrew) and she has asked (ya right, told me) for A/C to be installed before the kid gets here. That meen I have to get the new electric service in place and wired so we can power the new A/C unit. Also I have his room to get done and that is the easy part just need to paint the new doors, drawer faces, base board, door and window trim and put in carpet. So things will be on hold for a day or two:rolleyes:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Then paint and air lines.

I'm really diggin' the lines you made.

Hey Rok, between your job your own projects customers projects wife projects and new kid projects do you ever really get to drive the rock crawler you have....:cool:

Hey Rok, between your job your own projects customers projects wife projects and new kid projects do you ever really get to drive the rock crawler you have....:cool:

You tell me:whine:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin, tell me more about your line bending tool- is that it standing next to your brake booster?
Your skills are amazing with all this stuff :)

Kevin, tell me more about your line bending tool- is that it standing next to your brake booster?
Your skills are amazing with all this stuff :)

Thank you! The bender is a Blue Point #TBS300 and was about $65 from Matco or Snap-on. The flair set was about $2-300 or so all money very well spent if you plan on doing one nice show car or alot of customer work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I have the mounts done for the tank and comp. I used weld in nuts to make things easier for mounting. I then ran the hard lines, manual fill valve and the dump valve. I will be able to reach it all right thru the drivers side wheel well. Not a great set up if you are running full air suspention but since this is only for when I am towing or hauling a heave load it will work just fine. Well off to the parts store for some final pieces.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Valve set up $10 worth:metal:

looks great..
billy

Finaly the brakes are bled and finished, I pulled the in cab gas tank and started changing out the body mounts. The front cab mounts are rusted stuck fo they will be fun and the rad suports are also rusted:( I tested teh stock gas sending unit wire to the new tanks sender and it showed just over half a tank and I put between 12 and 15 gal into it so I think it should be just fine. Now I need to get the body mounts changed and the bed bolted back on and it is off to the alignment shop then to the muffler shop next.
Almost back on the road:metal:

I amso mounted the power supply for the air system with left over parts I poulled off one of my old crawlers. It is a 30amp breaker and a constant duty sylinoid. I just have a jumper wire that I clip on to the batery for power as needed. Not the ideal set up for on and off but it sure was cheap:metal:

I have spent about $150 in misc brake parts and body mounts and about 10 hours for brakes, air system and tank removal.

Kevin
LFD inc.
$3397.26
107.5hrs

Love the tools, wish I could justify buying some for myself.

Kevin,
will the Blue Point tubing bender bend tubing (as you pictured with quarter) that tight?

Kevin,
will the Blue Point tubing bender bend tubing (as you pictured with quarter) that tight?
That is how I did that one. I went out for pics of the bender and thought I would show what it can do!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

More great work!
You are at 107 hours- I would probably be 107 weeks getting all that work done. I can understand the feeling of doing it yourself, but some of us have absolutely no aptitude for this kinda stuff :)
Absolutely none of my business and I won't intrude like this again, but if you are willing could I ask what 107 hours of your time doing this stuff is going for? I can see that many times professionals are so much better equipped, have better tools and more experience, but this is also a very large part your native abilities to 'see' how things need to be and understand the very best way of doing it.
Anxious to see the completed project.
Will you then sell this truck and do another or ???
Thanks

He could tell you but then he would probably have to kill you!! Remember labor is twice is much in Cali too!!

More great work!
You are at 107 hours- I would probably be 107 weeks getting all that work done. I can understand the feeling of doing it yourself, but some of us have absolutely no aptitude for this kinda stuff :)
Absolutely none of my business and I won't intrude like this again, but if you are willing could I ask what 107 hours of your time doing this stuff is going for? I can see that many times professionals are so much better equipped, have better tools and more experience, but this is also a very large part your native abilities to 'see' how things need to be and understand the very best way of doing it.
Anxious to see the completed project.
Will you then sell this truck and do another or ???
Thanks

This is my shop truck and will end up with my logo on the door and be used for parts runs, swap meets and get togethers.

For hourly rates in Cali I have seen them from $50hr well over $120hr for the real upper end shops end shops.
So this wehical will not get sold but if things get slow in my shop I will find another and build it to sell or pre sell it and build it to suit the new owner.


Here are two pics from tonight. The brakes are done, body mounts are in but still need some shimming, headers are removed and stock manifolds are on and ready for the exhaust shop on Friday morning. It goes in for the four point allignment on Thursday and should be cruising around town by Saturday. I also had a set of tires I had laying around for years mounted on my new (to me) ralleys that I painted grey this morning. The first shot is at static ride heigth and the second is with the rear bags inflated. I get 3" of lift at the hitch and this should be plenty to level things out for towing.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin You gotta move those front marker lights down to match the rear ones.

I love em" down there but I think they both should be down to line up.

Is that in your plans?

When do you think Low Buck will see paint?

I'll quit with the questions now :lol:

RJ22...:)

Yes they will move down as well but I have not started the body work up their yet. I only did the rears because I was welding the rear bed back on so it made sence. They are also moved back a touch and the fronts will slide forward just a bit as well. You know you are the first person to point them out;) It will not see paint untill after the next customer build is done and out. His vehical is sitting on my trailer right now but I had to get this drivable before I could start his. I also want to drive mine for awhile before tearing it down for paint. I still have a few tricks up my sleave I want to play with before calling it ready to paint.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Someone else did mention it awhile back in the now 436 posts now how could you have possibly missed it with all your FREE time :lol: J/K

Can't wait to see your other tricks, I was just wondering cause I'm still like a kid and can't wait.

I really like em" down there NEVER would have thought they would look better than factory as much as I like these trucks the way they are but, I do none the less.

RJ22...:)

Kevin-
I'm sorry, I must have missed it--that's the problem with keeping up with the thread: you forget what happened earlier. What are you going to do with your exhaust? I remember you saying the misses thinks it too loud, but I don't remember what your plans were.
edit: I mean in terms of routing around the x-member and whatnot.

Looks great, as usual, btw. Three words though: Chrome gas filler! ;)
:cool:

I will be getting the exhaust done Friday morning and it will be stock manifolds with the two pipes merging into one or two pipes into the muffler and then a single 3" (if it will fit) out the back drivers side. I will be using the factory exhaust mounts that are on the frame and would like to get it to dump out under the back drivers side quarter panel just in front of the bumper. I am going this way for two reasons. The first is it will give me a bit more bottom end for towing and the second is because I ran out of room for mounting my tank and pump so it was mounted on the passenger side inside the frame.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin,
Right on man, truck looks great and like all the others I really like the custom lines and attention to detail.

From a fellow Nor Cal C10'er,
rough69

Were about in Nor-Ca?

Well I'm absolutely loving what you've done with the truck here, Rokcrln. I'm still of the "wish I could" crowd with money shortage, but maybe one day.

I had a question though: I know this might be a little more work on your part, and you've been giving mini updates as you go, but when you near the end of your project here, could you maybe markup a single list of parts bought and tricks done ( extra belt on water pump, axle flip, etc) with expenses? I think that would be nice to see as well as what you've already shown us. Just an idea.

I had a question though: I know this might be a little more work on your part, and you've been giving mini updates as you go, but when you near the end of your project here, could you maybe markup a single list of parts bought and tricks done ( extra belt on water pump, axle flip, etc) with expenses? I think that would be nice to see as well as what you've already shown us. Just an idea.

Well atleast you dont want much:lol:


Had a big day, I woke up at 3am (normal time) and headed down to the Oakland bay area to get one of my jog sites started before I headed to the shop for print review. At 7am I meet Marty over at East Bay Frame and Axle. They don't open until 8am but he said he would meet me their early to drop off the thuck due to my schedule. You all would love his shop, I walk in and up hanging from the rafters is a SWB complete chassie. Over to the left is a CST factory 2WD Blazer that is getting a new front frame due to a wreck and a few other real nice cars. In front of the Blazer if a sweet 41 ford deluxe coupe I would love to have :rolleyes:

So he did a full 4 corner alignment and every thing checked out great. The front wheels look good now that they are straite and tucked in the fender just enough with the 6.5" ralleys I have on it with 8" out back. He also changed the Yoke on the rear diff as it was warn out from a bad driveshaft in the past. My new shaft would not get tight in the yoke so he put on a used one for me to stay with my Low Buck theme I have going. All this for $187.19

Their are shops close to me but I started using Marty several years ago and his work speaks for it self and he is a very honerable guy to deal with. The shop is in San Leandro and he does frame shortening's as well.

Then on the way home I have a nice Pro Street 66 chevelle play tag in trafic and boy did that thing sound good.

At 8am I will be heading up to Santa Rosa to ge the exhaust done at A1-A performance muffler. Again he is 80 miles away but worth the drive and I have had every exhaust system done by Gary for the last 15+ years.

Kevin
LFD inc.
$3584.45
107.5hrs

Oh ya and I had a cool 70 SWB follow me all the way home:lol:

Nutz, you are just like me when I used to drive down the I-10 corridor in Texas I used to snap shots of cool cars while driving down the hiway. Looking good man.

Rokcrln...what do you do for a living? Just curious from the 3am job site visit and plan review comment. I draw framing plans and shop drawings for structural steel buildings for a living.

after seeing the truck like it is now i dont think you should paint it, you cant replicate that patina look its got right now and you should just put your logo on it and call it good, well maybe after tweaking a few things like the sidemarkers and what not, but damn that truck looks bitchin, nice to know it followed you all the way home to:lol:, thats a nice chevelle to, ill have to stop by sometime when im up there goin to wyotech in sacro

Rokcrln...what do you do for a living? Just curious from the 3am job site visit and plan review comment. I draw framing plans and shop drawings for structural steel buildings for a living.

I am a Superintendent for a steel framming Co. We do steel studs instead of wood and mostly for Comercial and State jobs. I do most of our plan review and half of the structural drawings before they head off to our Enginier for his stamp. I also get to do all the hiring and firing, deal with Inspectors, Architects, Enginiers, the State, Owners and everyone else related to the project. If all goes right I will be handing the keys to the Co. vehical back over and start doing my own thing (Lewis Fabrication Design Inc.) full time here in the next year or so.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

We are in buisness now:metal:
Spent the day up in Santa Rosa getting the exhaust made at A1A Performance Mufflers. They did a fantastic job but he did complain about my exhaust manifolds, they are center dump rams horns and what a pain in the A$$ on a 2wd to get that first bend with the proper seal. So for everyone else try and get the rear dump truck rams horns it will go alot smoother;)

He did a 2.5" system out of the manifolds into a Flowmaster "Ypipe" and then into a 3" single in single out Flowmaster. I wanted it to exit out the back just in front of the bumper, Ya right:crazy: With my flip kit, air bags, and the 25 gal rear tank their was no room to tuck it up over the rear end. I tell you if that tank was 1/4" bigger in any direction it would not have fit and it is so close to teh diff that I had to bend the weld seam to clear the cover. What we ended up doing is running it under the rear diff and it worked out great! It is still tucked up tight and since Gary is a pure surgon with his tube bender every clearance was addressed and fits perfect. He also used all the factory frame hanger mounts by taking some 1" x 1/8" flat stock and bent up mounts. He did add one mount to the rear off the side of the spring hanger to keep everything were it should be.

We tried a few mufflers untill I heard the sound I was looking for and let me tell you with a single 3" flowmaster system it sounds increadable. I got home and unloaded the truck and backed it into the drive way and forgot the side door to the house was open and my wife "WAS" sleeping:( When I came inside and saw that she was thinking I was ready for anything but what she did. Keep in mind she is 34 weeks pregnant and on bed rest. When I came in the she flipped out at how great it sounded and the smile on her face was ear to ear.
He charged me $300 for the entire system and we worked on it for a good 4-5 hours.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$3884.45
107.5hrs

It's a tow vehical after all this time!

I got home from the Exhaust shop and put the ball on th ehitch and hooked up the trailer and went for a test pull. It went great with an empty trailer and I could not even tell it was their. I still need to hook up the brake controller before any real work but I am on the way. I also went for just a test ride around town and on the freeway to see how things felt. Let me tell you the steering and brakes feel like nothing I have ever had in an old vehical and some new ones for that matter. Very tight and the brakes stop on a dime with very little effort. The power was just fine and it will lite them up if needed:rolleyes: The ride was a bit rough, I think it is the shocks. I keeped the stock ones because they felt real good and stil had some room with the lowered set up. What I forgot is as they get a lot stiffer as they run tward teh bottom of their stroke so I think that is what is happening. I think I have a set in the attic from my ART kit that I never used on Slow Build so I will try them out and see what it does.

Also on my way home from Santa Rosa I finally stopped by a house I knew about to see if the 55 was for sale. I have seen this truck for as long as I can remember and it has never moved. It was so long ago that the tree you see now was not their:crazy: I tanled with th eold lady who answered the door and she informed me that it would not be moving untill they had the money to fix it up. Her husband has had it since it was new back in high school and he will not part with it. Oh well had to try:)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

:cong:

Time for a beer! And another pat on the back. :cong: from me also, I hope all goes well and you can hand over those keys and truck in the next yr. or so also.

That way we can see more of your quality workmanship come to life as "Low Buck" has. :metal:

Respectfully RJ22...:)

You will be seeing alot more work but these keys are not leaving my pocket. Now when Slow Build is done that one will be getting sold to help fund my parts pile for the my 2WD blazer project.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

looks awesome lewis, about time:) way to go man!

looks awesome lewis, about time:) way to go man!


About time:rolleyes: Heck this has only been 4 months of side, side work time when a customers vehical was not being worked on or if I just needed a mental break. Now the chassie is completly rebuilt and ready to tear it up if I can find time to drive it.

I had about 30min in between paint cotes on the kids room and filled my stock gas cap hole with a gas cap:confused:

I did not want to leave it open and I also do not have the time right now to start any body work so this was a very simple option. I saw this on a post for gas tank delete or somthing like that but they used a thru bolt of some type to do it. I just cut off the very end nipple of the cap and welded on a small nut. I then drilled a hole in a scrap piece of 1/8" plate and used a short bolt and a jamb nut to hold it all in place. I think it looks good for what it is, nice and tight to the body and no bolt showing from the out side.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$3884.45
108hrs