LFD's
Low buck truck build

This is a new project that I am starting at a slow pace when I have time between customer builds and life in general. It will be a diferent kind of build thread for this board. I will be showing all the work and most steps needed to do it your self. I will also be giving the hours spent for diferent tasks that I am doing so others will have a guild line for their own work. It may also help when looking for a shop to help you out on your project. I will be sharing any and all money I spend on this build. Some parts will be bought from normal shops, some will come from the wrecking yard and others will be donated or traded for Parts I have laying around here to help cut down on build costs.

I just got these trucks from another board member that lost interest. The build truck is a 70 CST LWB 350 auto, ps,pb, A/C, disk and rear leafs. The price of the truck is not important because this build is to show how much money and time can be extected for doing the same mods to a truck you already have or may be looking at buying.

Now for the build info.
I want to build a low dollar 2wd short bed that is capible of towing my 16' car trailer and look good at the same time but not so cheap that their are compromises in quality or reliability.

First thing is get it running and on the road as is. Then we will move onto the ride height, it will get drop spindles and lowered springs up front and in the rear I will keep the leaf springs and most likely do an axel flip kit, C-notch and a set of over load bags to level out the ride with the trailer hooked up.

Once that is done I will move onto turning the fleet side bed into a short bed and cutting the frame down as well. I will show step by step pics for taking your fleet side bed and with a little cut and snip end up with a short bed and also cutting down your long bed frame to match.

After that is done we will move onto rust replacement, body work and paint. I think this will be a fun build for all of us and I hope people get good info out of it. If you have any susgestion or coments please let me know, while I have a plan I will be following it is not set in stone and may change here and their just abit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here is the truck that will be built for my new tow rig. Right now it has a new crate GM350 in it that had a broken bolt in the intake manifold water neck so it was pulled apart for repairs. I got this truck with almost all the parts needed to get it on the road and have a great start for this build. So far I have only found rust in the kick panels. The floor and rockers look real good but the water that ate the kick panels came from some where so I expect to find problems down the road that we will deal with. Alot of parts are in boxes in the cab, bed and many other places. It comes with a 67 parts truck that is not really needed tor the build but will come in handy for other projects in the shop as well as parts for other members.

Here are a few pic's from today after I got it home. I will get more detailed pics in the next few days.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

A few more.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I can't wait!

After 2 trips to Sacramento making full loads we got it all home and I still had a few hours to play. I started with sorting out engine parts to put it back together. I was able to find most of what I needed but had to make one parts trip so far.
I picked up a new PS return hose, battery, thermostat and a new carb to maniforl gasket. I still need to get a dist hold down bracket in the morning. I spent $80.09 on parts today and 2hrs 20min in labor. I removed the valve covers and cleaned the old intake gaskets. This motor looks like it is brand new on the inside so I hope it runs good. I then replaced the intake and set the motor for TDC and dropped in the dist. I could not find a dist clamp in the parts boxes so I will pick one up in the morning. I then replaced the battery box with a new one (that was in the bed) because it was rusted out. I also put in the new battery from Napa auto parts.

While looking for parts I did run accross a box in the bed that I was not aware of. It had two new stock mirrrors in it, lic plt bracket and light, gravel guards (don't know what they are) New rear bumper brackets and bolts:metal:

I am not sure how much more I will be getting done right now because as soon as it is warm enough I need to spray project lemon drop with high build primmer for block sanding and paint. But as time allows I wil up date this thread but their will be down time between posts, sorry but customers come first.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Great Idea! Thanks for sharing:metal:

I'll stay tuned!

I'm watching you.

Great idea Kevin. Looks like that engine has never been run. Now if the tranny and brakes are ok. I've given similar thoughts to pulling our camper with my 69 step. Working on this one as time allows when would you expect to see this one on the road?

Tuned in.
Brandon

Everyone buckle up :burnout:, this is going to be fun!!

hey Kevin, i like the thread you started.im doing the same thing right now with a 70 chevy long bed that i picked up for $300.00 . it is straight and rust free.but it did have a rod sticking out of the side of the motor.my whole goal with this truck is to put together a cool looking parts runner and something i can haul my dirt bike around in.i might have to start my own thread as well.good luck and i look forward to viewing your build . Tony , Auburn Ca

GO KEVIN, GO KEVIN :hm:

Well right now it is 21* out side in sunny California and I will not be able to spray the primer on Lemon Drop so it should be running today and once I find a seat (and cut up the parts truck sitting in front of it) it wil be on the road. Comming off the trailer the brakes seemed good and I have two new rotors sitting in the bed as well! I am going to try and keep it a semi driving resto/ custom as it goes. I will swap out the rotors the same week end it gets lowered. then the week end I cut the frame I will pull the bed and set it aside for shorting, have the drive shaft made (one piece) and be able to drive it while I do the bed work. The only real down time will be when I do the interior rust paint work because I will have the glass out to fix and rust I find. This way I can finish the interior and put in new glass and keep it running while the rest of the body is done.

I have already been offered a set of Air Ride bags from "PorterBuilt Street Rods" to use for load levlers. He is donating them to the build I jusat pay shipping. I will get a bag price so it can be included in the build.
Thanks Nate!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Here are a few sub zero (21* close enough) pics from this morning. Like I said the only showing rust in the two kick panels but we all know their will be more that will want to come out and playas this build develops.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's what mine looked like when I started, and we know how that turned out :rolleyes: . OBTW, since you were giving me such a hard time about the liftgate, it's a sunny 75 in FL:metal: !

You contributions to this board by your detailed posts are priceless - now I've got another thread to watch very closely - thanks!

Nice This is going to be a very helpful build

I'll seriuosly be watching this one. This is the kind of info I need as I get into working over my `68.

Thanks a bunch!
Muchos Gracias!
And other stuff

Kevin,I'll be watching.I think you started this build to keep the customers coming.Sure as the devil we will be watching and waiting and you will get covered up with customers work.That's how life always seems to work.I'll be looking forward to seeing this come together.Maybe you should video some of this one too.

Sweet I can't wait to see how it turns out!!!:metal:

This will be another good one to follow. One question though, why not just leave it a long bed? I mean if you are planning on towing with it and everything? Besides, I like the long beds. Anyway, cant wait to see an update...

.... One question though, why not just leave it a long bed? I mean if you are planning on towing with it and everything? Besides, I like the long beds....
He likes short beds more! This will be another cool one to watch.

Looks like a good starter truck

He likes short beds more! This will be another cool one to watch.

Yes I can not stand long beds! Sorry guys nothing personal just my tastes! Plus what fun is cutting a bed and aframe if you end up with what you started with:confused:

Well it is running now and sounds good except for the exhaust leaks. It has some old rusty ful length headers on it that will stay for now and just get new gaskets later tonight. Today I had to buy a dist. clamp, PS belt, PS return hose, fuel - vac-heater hose's, ATF battery ground cable, air cleaner stud and cap nut. For a total of $126.20. That puts us at a total of $206.29 for a running truck almost ready for the road. I just need to put in a seat and make a trip to the DMV to get it transfered and registered (has a non op right now) and slap on some plates. The tranny works and so do the brakes as well as the posi:metal: I sitll need to time it and alittle tweaking that will happen in the next week or so. Here are a few pics of todays warm activity:rolleyes:

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $226.20

this is gonna be a pretty cool thread.

although we are all starting to sound like kevin groupies.
sorry but my shirt is staying on! :b69:

later,
Frank

Cool build. 21 degrees, not bad, we were near single digits here the last few nights. Besides, you live in WINTERS.

Yes I know it is "Winters" but still this is California is it not! The worst part is I have a 1200sq ft shop with a fire place and two propain heaters and yet I am working out in the driveway!
Well I think I will be doing plug wires tomarrow, what do you think? The header gaskets are in and it sounds better but they are still cr@p headers. I found a leak in the radiator, it looks like somthing was bumped into it and caused a hole in a fin. I still need to time it and check the advance on the HEI. What should this timming be set at? It has been so long since I have worked on a carbed motor:o How do you like the seats (2005 Tahoe):c2: Also parts that were tossed in with the deal. Has anyone used these for front seats?

Well their is now another 6.5hrs in this truck for a total 9 hours of work and 5 hours for pick up and off loading (both trucks and parts).

Kevin
LFD Inc
Total $226.20
and 14hrs

hey, this is really cool. helps alot with what can be done. thanks, i'll stay tuned....:cool:

Awsome project, Ill be watching this one closely!:c2:

I think that HEI ran best @ 12'ish on mine. Almost off the scale but hey "whatever it takes"///

I've had hei's run great anywhere between 8 and 12 degrees just depends on the engine

also i've been told there is a difference for altitude but that could be just a rumor.:crazy: I always start at 8 and work from there

Frank

How do you like the seats (2005 Tahoe):c2: Also parts that were tossed in with the deal. Has anyone used these for front seats?


i think i just found the seats for my build. Those look pretty sweet in there. Just need to find myself a black set.

are they full power for each seat? if so, do you plan to wire them up?

i think i just found the seats for my build. Those look pretty sweet in there. Just need to find myself a black set.

are they full power for each seat? if so, do you plan to wire them up?

No they are not power at all and do not adjust at all. They are the rear seats in a Tahoe and fold up and pop out, you carry them like a sutecase! I do not think they would make a very good front seat. I just put them in their to get them out of the weather untill I find a front seat I want to use. Also I think they are designed to be right next to each other to make the center seat because each seat has half a center seat belt:confused: I think they would be great for the rear seats in a Blazer or Burb with the matching full power front seat out of the same vehical.

Thanks for the HEI info I think I used to run about 10.5 to 11 in my 327 64 nova but it has been awhile.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

id like to donate a little cash to your project if you trade me your rims for my truck ralley's 15 x 8"s

...really makes me motivated to get outside and finish putting my engine together (yes...I have all the parts, just lazy I guess).

id like to donate a little cash to your project if you trade me your rims for my truck ralley's 15 x 8"s

Get me a pic of your rims! I also have new center caps that are kind of bullit shapped with matching lugs all still wrapped!

...really makes me motivated to get outside and finish putting my engine together (yes...I have all the parts, just lazy I guess).
It is very surprising how much less work it is to just get it done than you thought it would be. I find I will spend more time finding reasons not to do somthing that it would have taken just to do it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Dams, soemone beat me to those rims....

Well just like we all know too well the $ are starting to add up. I went to time this thing today and the HEI's advance is all coroded and froze solid. I shopped around for a new one and the best one I found for the money was thru summit (sum-85000R1 for $85.88) w/handling it was 96.83 to my door. I also needed new wires and the best value I found for 8m wires w/90* plug ends for my headers was from Napa for $34.31 (part# 7002.44). This adds a total of $131.14 to our build. If I was not trying to keep this a low buck build I would have gone with DUI's HEI for about $255. but the one from summit will work just fine for my needs.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $357.34
and 14hrs

id like to donate a little cash to your project if you trade me your rims for my truck ralley's 15 x 8"s


Here are the caps, screws, lug washers and lugs that I have for the rims!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Free parts to good home

These parts are not for sale and I do not want any money offers. I am doing this to try and help out board members that can not afford some parts they might need. If I find out anyone is wanting a part so they can resell it to ANYONE the deal is off and I will scrap it all. I am trying to do a good thing here so don't screw it up for everyone else.

Ok do not PM me for any parts! List it here on the board so no one can feel they were side tracked or skipped over. Also I do not want to ship any of this stuff so if you are first in line but need it shipped and guy #27 wants the part and will pick it up in a timely manor it is his first!


#2 chevy tailgate not good at all but no visable rust, just bowed and dented.

#3 69-72 rear sliding window, dirst but slides and locks easily.

#4 69-70 grill (yr?) out side is toast but he eag crate is good with only one missing fin. All the attachments are good.


#6 67 small back window Good glass

#7 67 glove box door (327 on tag)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I shopped around for a new one and the best one I found for the money was thru summit (sum-85000R1 for $85.88) w/handling it was 96.83 to my door.

Hey Kevin that's the dizzy I went with and I'm happy with it:metal:

How much to ship me that rear slider?

Next up!




#12 gas tank. does not look like it is rusted inside.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

And more!


#15 Red visors and mounting hardware.


#17 under dash wiring. ??????


Kevin
LFD Inc.

How much to ship me that rear slider?

I will put you down as the first alternate as I do not want to ship!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

i could use a tail light wiring harness. skip white on ebay sells complete hei's for less then $60

wish I was in CA (did I just say that?)

I could use a few cab patch panels (ones that aren't repop'd yet...my luck)

Kevin,
I would like to pick up the lower trim the the heater control. My heater control just broke.
What kind of parts do you need?

i could use a tail light wiring harness. skip white on ebay sells complete hei's for less then $60
I will check it out and let you know.

I checked it out and teh tail light wiring was missing on the pass side and the drivers side has had about 6 trailer splices wired in. It will be going in the trash.

A few more things for now.

#18 Jack hold downs. Nuff said!

#19 67-68 E-brake handle. Needs cleaning and lube.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I am not sure if the heater control is the same but it is your if you want it. Also I do not know what all is their for the lower trim but it is yours as well.

Are you going to be around tomorrow after 4:30? I can stop by after work on my way home.

Here is the link to my WTB thread, it has detailed pics of my issues.... I just found that my floor has holes on the driver side below the clutch and above the seam too... that soundproofing seems to be hell on the floors... where the soundproofing survived is the only area that rusted through... New York truck so I can't complain I guess...thanks..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=221404

What parts do you need in trade for the L&R long bedsides and can you take pics of the tail light section???

Great project. I'm still finding things in boxes that I got with my basket case. My engine was supposed to be good too but I ended up building a new one. Giving away not needed old parts for free may just start a trend around here. I know I'll have a bunch when I'm done.

Tom

do you think it might be easier if I just weld some flat panels into those spots?

:lol: I put that in their because if someone (other than you) wanted the full bed side I wanted the tail light section off theirs for you! You wanted about 8" in from the end of the bed right?

Kevin
LFD inc.

DOH!!! I'm always spoiling the suprises! Let's wait and see if someone needs them before we chop them up. Thanks for keeping me in mind.

Rob

I would then put some carpet over it and call it done!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

yep, I just wanna keep the mud out for now! Mine is big enough for an escape hatch! Good luck on the build.

If you decide to ship, I could use the center cross member( where the trailing arms attach). Also, you mention that you are shortening your longbed. Are you going to shorten the bedsides as well or just the floor? I sure would like to see how you would shorten the sides, so I could see the right way to do it before I cut mine. It would fit in with the budget theam as well. Great thread.

I could use 10" of frame length under the cab, both sides. I have some plans for the future.

#18 Jack hold downs. Nuff said!

#19 67-68 E-brake handle. Needs cleaning and lube.



Will these fit in a Flat rate box? If so let me know and I'll pay the $8.10 ;)

(PS - Flate rate boxes are free if you sign up on the USPS website, they
will deliver them to your door in groups of 25, seriously, can't beat that)

hey Kevin, i am looking for some trailling arms for my Balzer 2wd conversion. are they still avalible, and what kind of condition are they in?what can i trade you for them, or will you except a donation? thanks for your time Tony

hey Kevin, i just remebered i have a 1969 short bed frame that was cleaned and coated in POR15 sitting out behind my garage.let me know. Tony

I could use the front 8" or so of the frame. The little section in front of the core support mount. A PO cut mine to install a homemade rollpan. Happy to pay shipping if you change your mind and decide to ship. Ship them with the slider window to jimmy dean? we are about 20 miles apart.

Thanks
Jason

Dam summit is fast less then 24hrs from order to my front portch:metal: And thanks to those who posted or sent PM's for cheaper HEI's but $100 for a new better than stock HEI complete was worth it to me. o guys if you are on a nickle and dime budget know you can find them for about $60 +- for a rebuilt from other places. For me piece of mind knowing it is all new is a good thing.

I almost for got $83 to the wonderfull state of Cali. for sales tax and reg.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $440.34
and 14hrs

If the rear crossmember is nice I can have my brother pick it up. He goes between Big Bar and Martinez regularly. Mine look like it was used to jack up a fully loaded camper special but it is a shortbed.

Let me know so I can let him know - thanks - Bob

Nother one of those..IF..you change your mind about shipping, I would take the visors and seat belts (you didnt mention them though). I have no problem giving you some cash for em.

Mark

Kevin,I might need part of the very back crossmember if its available
BOB MOORE needs the whole piece and can pick up. Sorry but if things change I will get back to you


If you decide to ship, I could use the center cross member( where the trailing arms attach). If I decide to ship I will let you know but it is a heavy piece! Yes it will be a bed side and floor chop job for the shortbed.

I could use 10" of frame length under the cab, both sides. I have some plans for the future. I will cut it out so if I decide to ship but it is kind of heavy!

Will these fit in a Flat rate box? If so let me know and I'll pay the $8.10 ;)
(PS - Flate rate boxes are free if you sign up on the USPS website, they
will deliver them to your door in groups of 25, seriously, can't beat that) (#18 & #19) What size is the box, send me a link!

hey Kevin, i am looking for some trailling arms for my Balzer 2wd conversion. Tony Good stock shape no visible rust. I am building a short frame for the build thread. What other parts do you have?

I could use the front 8" or so of the frame. Ship them with the slider window to jimmy dean? we are about 20 miles apart.

Thanks
Jason
I will cut it off so I decide to ship? Should I pac glass in with frame parts:lol:

If the rear crossmember is nice I can have my brother pick it up. Bob I will let you know when it is out and ready.


Nother one of those..IF..you change your mind about shipping, I would take the visors and seat belts (you didnt mention them though). I have no problem giving you some cash for em.

Mark I will find out about these flat rate boxes and let you know. Outer belts are their, centers are cut?

hey Kevin, what do you need right now. i have several part trucks. i have some blazer doors,power steering boxes,pwr boosters,you know a lot of stuff.you are on my way home from San Francisco-Auburn ,kind of.clean hoods,fenders,doors,ect. Tony

Kevin, a word of advise. I bought one of those HEI's from Summit and the star on the shaft that breaks the field was loose. When I excelerate it would retard and when I decelerate it would advance. Took me hours to find it. Thought it was the carb running lean.

LFD... I'm interested in the underdash wiring... I assume it's a '69 w/ full gauges wiring harness? But, for that price I'll take it regardless. If you decide to ship, can I be first alternate... Gladly pay shipping...Plus donation to project.
You should post a reply of the list of parts your still needing. I may have a part or two you need.

LFD... I'm interested in the underdash wiring... I assume it's a '69 w/ full gauges wiring harness?
It is out of a 67 and I do belive the glovebox door did spec guages as one of the options along with the 327ci. You are on the list I will contact you when things are ready. As far as parts I really am set as I have several project vehicals and this 70 came almost 100% complete just in pieces. Thanks anyways!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Well just like we all know too well the $ are starting to add up. I went to time this thing today and the HEI's advance is all coroded and froze solid. I shopped around for a new one and the best one I found for the money was thru summit (sum-85000R1 for $85.88) w/handling it was 96.83 to my door. I also needed new wires and the best value I found for 8m wires w/90* plug ends for my headers was from Napa for $34.31 (part# 7002.44). This adds a total of $131.14 to our build. If I was not trying to keep this a low buck build I would have gone with DUI's HEI for about $255. but the one from summit will work just fine for my needs.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
Total $357.34
and 14hrs

Too bad about that HEI, I have one that I would have given you for shipping. I am sure that there are others on here that will have parts for you also at little to no cost. Just my 2 Cents

(#18 & #19) What size is the box, send me a link!


http://shop.usps.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductCategoryDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10152&categoryId=13359#skipNavigation ;)

LFD... I'm interested in the underdash wiring... I assume it's a '69 w/ full gauges wiring harness? But, for that price I'll take it regardless. If you decide to ship, can I be first alternate... Gladly pay shipping...Plus donation to project.
You should post a reply of the list of parts your still needing. I may have a part or two you need.

Kevin, you could throw his harness in a box with my frame pieces and I would pay shipping. just send it all to Bryan and I'll get them from him this summer.