I am doing a 47 chevy panel build. I have installed a TCI Mustang II, power rack, and have not yet removed the factory firewall. I haven't decided yet if I want to do a new firewall, but I am not opposed to it. I am having trouble placing the motor mounts in the correct location. I see in some of your pics, they are placed 1-2 inches behind the crossmember, some are farther back. The mounts are the TCI triangle type. Maybe some of you have some good pics to give me an idea of where to start. I'm using the standard chevy 350. Thanks all.

hook the mtr & trans together & drop that mother in the frame far enough back so nothing hits or rubs & mark the place where the mounts should be & then weld or bolt them in, it's that easy....joe

That is how I did it. Check out my build thread...I have a couple of pictures there. I still need to do the final install but I am pretty close to where I want to be with it. I believe it needs to move about an inch foward though. We put in a firewall from Bitchin Products and I am in the process of installing the forward floor. Hopefully I can get on it this weekend depending on the weather.

Bernie

I am doing a 47 chevy panel build. I have installed a TCI Mustang II, power rack, and have not yet removed the factory firewall. I haven't decided yet if I want to do a new firewall, but I am not opposed to it. I am having trouble placing the motor mounts in the correct location. I see in some of your pics, they are placed 1-2 inches behind the crossmember, some are farther back. The mounts are the TCI triangle type. Maybe some of you have some good pics to give me an idea of where to start. I'm using the standard chevy 350. Thanks all.

hook the mtr & trans together & drop that mother in the frame far enough back so nothing hits or rubs & mark the place where the mounts should be & then weld or bolt them in, it's that easy....joe

I am not familiar w/ the 1947, but I have only one suggestion. I agree w/ TooMany2count. With his suggestions also also take into consideration valve cover clearance as well as distributor clearance. Remember the TCI mounts are a standard build, no matter what model truck you are welding them in. So make sure that you properly position the tranny. Because before welding you may have to trim maybe an 1" off each motor mount pirch to level the motor(Carb. mounting surface). Remember that when you first stick the motor over in the truck there will be plenty of room to bring the motor down some.

Ok boys, I have a question, why in the world would you need to change the firewall to put a V8 in where an inline six was originally? I just don't get that thinking.

Do as engine swappers have done since the first swap, put the motor and tranny in the truck and locate where the mounts go and weld them, it is that simple.

Brian

Ok boys, I have a question, why in the world would you need to change the firewall to put a V8 in where an inline six was originally? I just don't get that thinking.

Brian

u don't, but some like the clean smooth look...joe

Brian, Joe is right, Our firewall was pretty messed up. If it had been in good shape I would have used it. Plus it is going to give me a couple more inches to move the motor back.

Bernie

Gotcha.

Brian

Just make sure you have the cab on and make sure the tranny clears under the cab. I had to trim my mounts a little just so the tranny would not hit the bottom of the cab. I also measure about 2-3 fingers between the firewall and the valve covers. Make sure you have clearance for an HEI distributor if you are using one. I just tacked mine in and mocked it up before performing the final welds. Here are some pics.

Brian, Joe is right, Our firewall was pretty messed up. If it had been in good shape I would have used it. Plus it is going to give me a couple more inches to move the motor back.

Bernie


u really dont have to move the firewall back UNLESS u want to. my 425 Caddy mtr fits w/the firewall in the stock place. now i did clearance 2 spots because of one valve cover & a water outlet on the back of one head BUT i wouldnt of had to IF my fuel pump would of cleared the steering box on the S10 frame i'm using...joe

And for goodness sakes be sure EVERYTHING is installed before welding. Make sure the motor is sitting on ALL it's mounts including the tranny. Make sure the front sheetmetal is on to check fan clearance, this is FREE stuff here guys, just a little time, that's all.

My brother is finishing up an awsome 29 Model A sedan with a Buick Nailhead in it. Some guy built some super nice motor mounts and the thing is just so beautiful. One problem, the water pump wasn't on the motor when he set it up! You got it, no room for a fan! You HAVE TO HAVE EVERYTHING IN, exhaust, steering gear, brake mastercylinder EVERYTHING.

Brian

u really dont have to move the firewall back UNLESS u want to. my 425 Caddy mtr fits w/the firewall in the stock place. now i did clearance 2 spots because of one valve cover & a water outlet on the back of one head BUT i wouldnt of had to IF my fuel pump would of cleared the steering box on the S10 frame i'm using...joe

Joe, It is just a want to on moving the motor back. We are running a big block and we want to run an electric fan so I am trying to make as much room as possible.:)

Bernie

Bernie look at this SITE (http://carnut.com/specs/engdim.html) it'll show u the lenghts. if my caddy will fit w/lots of room to spare ur BBC should fit w/o cutting ur firewall....joe

Joe, I have already done the firewall and working on the floor. Back when we first started this truck we did a Pontiac 400 and we got a little cut happy on the firewall. That was like 20 years ago before people were doing these trucks. Now we are trying to do it right...lol. Thanks for the info though.

Bernie

Gatorbuilt,
Now that your engine is in place can you take a measurment from #1 spark plug in relation to the axle centerline.
I am building a 53 chassis and will be installing motor mounts soon and this question will come up. I am going to remove all the sheetmetal (from another truck) after I have the second chassis completed, so I cannot put the cab and fenders on to check measurments. Maybe some others could take some measurments also so I can come up with a GOOD consenseous (sp) The axle centerline on these trucks is the same I am told!! The SBC spark plug for #1 cylinder should be a good measuring point also. I do not want to cut the firewall or move the engine to the rear.

Gatorbuilt,
Now that your engine is in place can you take a measurment from #1 spark plug in relation to the axle centerline.
I am building a 53 chassis and will be installing motor mounts soon and this question will come up. I am going to remove all the sheetmetal (from another truck) after I have the second chassis completed, so I cannot put the cab and fenders on to check measurments. Maybe some others could take some measurments also so I can come up with a GOOD consenseous (sp) The axle centerline on these trucks is the same I am told!! The SBC spark plug for #1 cylinder should be a good measuring point also. I do not want to cut the firewall or move the engine to the rear.

SOLIDAXEL,
i have not forgotten about you. Are you asking for the distance from the mustang II center line?

Yes, the axle centerline should be the same for the I-beam or the Mll, and No. 1 plug should be a standard measurment location, unless folks are moving the engine to the rear, these measurments should be about the same.
I do not want to cut the firewall so the distance from the firewall to the Valve cover on the passenger side should be within a inch or so (two or three fingers clearence)