hey guys i'm trying to rebuild my hindges. and i can't seem to get out the old pin. is there some sort of set screw holding it it or has the rust just fused the metals together.

You will probably need to press them out or some heat and a big hammer. :D

tried the big hammer and some heat i will get the drilled next week. thanks

get a carbide drill those pins are hardened

And don't forget the safety glasses!!!:cool: :cool:
Brian ...:cool:

Try Soaking In Muractic Acid. Watch Acid Vapors.do This Outside. Vapors Will Burn Skin And Eat Into Whatever You Are Wearing So Please Be Careful.then Put In Bucket Of Soda Water To Rinse. If There Is Rust In The Hinges It Will Be Gone.

well i just picked up the hinges from the machine shop where they drilled them out. the problem is the replacement pin is a 1/6th too large. and as far as i can tell there are no bushings other than some thick washers. and idesa?
GT

Greg-
Let me see if I understood you correctly. Are the pins 1/6th or 1/16th too big? Your hinge repair kit should have included the brass hat bushings the go into the hinge box (not the arm). If not, then you are going to need them to do the job. I just rebuilt my hinges last weekend for my '55 (second series). My pins refused to come out also, and I had to drill them out. Also, I had to drill out the hinge boxes slightly in order to slip the bushings in. They take all of the force of the heavy door, and if you didn't have them, the pins and the boxes would wear out quickly from rubbing. Once you get the bushings installed, you may find that the arms will not slide between the bushings. This is normal, and you might have to get a file or sanding disc and remove some material from the arm. Only take as much as you need. Take too much, and you've got slop in the hinge. I noticed on my hinges that after I did all the bushing and arm rework that my lower hinges had some slop because the hole in the arm was bigger than the inside diameter of the new bushings. Either they got larger from use, or I got into the sidewall during the drill-out process. I am a stickler for detail, so I decided that I would rebush the arms to fix the situation. I opened the holes in the arms from .360 to .500, and made a bushing with an o.d. of .500 and an i.d. of .343 (11/32", which is the same diameter as the new pin). They now work perfectly with zero slop. Oddly, the upper hinges didn't need any rebushing. Usually, the upper hinges take up all the force and wear out first. I hope that this helps you out, and if you have any more questions, feel free to post them.

I laugh now, but I remember the guy at Tucker's where I bought the hinge pins told me that all you had to do was simply grind off the heads and drive the pins out. Yeah, right.....................

I think this link will help you understand better what needs to be done. I followed these steps and was able to repair a hinge at home using a had drill in a little over an hour. I also had to drill out the old pin as it was frozen with rust.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/door_hinge.php

ok guys thanks i re ordered the hinge rebuild kit and followed the online directions. i guess the first set of pins were wrong. the kit came with the bushings. since i have 4 extra hinges i've been using them as a test drill and extra parts. i found out that a 54 hinge bolt patern is slightly diffrent than a 53. the 2 hole side is wider. it may be the diffrence between the 1 ton and the 3100... go figure. reguardless a litle reaming and presto they fit. also one of the other things i noticed. the one ton 54 hinges had 2 springs on the upper hinge. i couldn't imagine they were rebuilt take look at my blog for the images. i'm pretty sure there from the factory like that.
thanks again guys for the help
Greg