THE SOLE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD IS TO INSTALL THE DIZZY CORRECT AND NOT BE 180 OUT ON TIMING

i am listing new parts that have to be removed and are not worth using again because they are cheap to buy. and i don't like doing something twice.
use your best judgment.

PARTS NEEDED TO DO THE JOB:
new quality cam and lifter set
new timing chain and gear set
new top end gasket set. (i like to buy a complete gasket set for 45.00)
new oil and filter
some new anti freeze
silicone
lock tight
new water pump
new belts
new hoses
carb base gasket
cam lobe break-in lube-***should come with cam***
Assembly lube
degreaser
shop rags
new spark plugs

SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED TO DO THIS JOB
3 jaw gear puller
balancer removal tool
balancer installer tool
oil pump primer tool

WE WILL START WITH A FEW ITEMS TO PREP FOR DISASSEMBLY

*****REMOVE COIL WIRE ON POINTS DIZZY OR 12 VOLT WIRE ON HEI SO THE ENGINE WON'T START*****

ROTATE ENGINE OVER TO TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER) this can be done by removing #1 cyl spark plug, (DRIVERS SIDE FIRST PLUG IN FRONT) hold finger on spark plug hole and watch the timing marks on the balancer and timing tab, have some one click the engine over until you feel pressure on your finger. stop when the balancer line is on the zero mark on the timing tab. (this may take a few try's to get this right, this is the first step to learning chevy timing marks)
(IF YOU COULD SEE THE CHAIN AND GEARS BOTH MARK'S WOULD BE AT 12:00 POSITION)

disconnect battery
drain antifreeze from system into bucket(save if in good condition) locate radiator pet cock.

HERES THE SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED AND THE TIMING MARK @ TDC WHERE YOU SHOULD BE RIGHT NOW

LET'S DIG IN
remove the upper radiator hose.
remove the cooling fan
remove the fan shroud
IF YOU HAVE A/C NOW'S AS GOOD A TIME AS ANY TO REMOVE THE COMPRESSOR AND BRACKETS AND MOVE TO THE SIDE. (TO THE LEFT)
DO THE SAME FOR THE ALTERNATOR (TO THE RIGHT)
(take pictures if needed to reinstall correctly if need be.)
disconnect the lower radiator hose.(drip pan):)
disconnect the transmission lines (if you have a automatic trans) drip pan :)
remove the upper radiator support brackets.
pull out the radiator.

DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT A BEER YET :rolleyes:

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP..and look at the rotor (factory spec. rotor should be pointing in the direction of #1 cyl.)

take a marker and make a line on the dizzy base where the rotors pointing if it's pointing toward #1 cyl
for future reference, also mark the dizzy cap so you know which tower is #1 spark plug wire
(IF IT'S NOT DON'T WORRY WE WILL FIX THAT LATER)
heres a picture of where we should be right now

NEXT WERE PULLING OUT THE DIZZY
*****with cap removed and out of the way*****
you should have already removed the coil wire(FOR POINTS) or 12V wire for (HEI)
For points. remove the wire from the coil, mark which side it came from.
For HEI remove the tach wire if you have one..remove the base connector from the cap.

yup.. remove the dizzy base retainer clip(hold down) and bolt 9/16" set this clip and bolt aside for later use.

REMOVE THE DIZZY pull straight up .you will notice the rotor spin as you pull it up about a 1/4 turn. thats the dizzy gear pulling past the cam shaft gear in the engine.

IF YOU ARE UPGRADING TO HEI ???
remove the coil and bracket and set aside.
(stuff a shop rag in the dizzy hole (NOW) to keep anything from falling to your engine)

NOW LETS GET BACK TO REMOVING THE TIMING CHAIN COVER

loosen up the power steering pump belt. remove the rest of the belts.
remove the water pump pulley if it already has not fell off from removing the alt. and a/c
remove the heater core hoses. set out of the way. (drip pan) :)

remove the crank (bottom) pulley and center crank (balancer) bolt

remover the water pump.. (better be moving the drip pan around) :)

now were going to remove the balancer using our removal tool.
make DAMN sure your puller has the swivel end on it so you don't foul up the crank threads

heres a picture or two..

NOW WE HAVE THE BALANCER OUT OF THE WAY
we should go ahead and remove the timing chain cover bolts and the timing tab if it's mounted on the side like the one shown.;)

now here's where things get crazy..

since you have already put the engine on TDC #1 YOUR TIMING MARKS are going to look like this. the cam gear is at 12:00 and the crank gear is at 12:00

REPEAT CAM GEAR MARK IS AT 12:00 AND CRANK GEAR MARK IS AT 12:00 AT #1 TDC

LOOKS LIKE THIS. SORRY NO LIVE PICTURE

NOW WITH THE COVER REMOVED
and the timing marks noted..

!!!!!!!LETS GET READY TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD!!!!!!
remove the valve covers.
remove the fuel line at the fuel pump.
remove the throttle cable or the throttle linkage rod which ever you have.
disconnect the vacuum lines (ONLY AFTER MARKING WHERE THEY GO)
VACUUM BOOSTER
A/C VACUUM HOSE
TRANSMISSION VACUUM LINE
ANY ELECTRIC WIRES..(only after marking there location)
KICKDOWN SWITCH ---TRANS---
A/C SOLINOID
NOW REMOVE THE INTAKE BOLTS AND CAREFULLY REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD

THIS SUCKER IS HEAVY. !!!!!YOU MAY NEED TO PRY IT LOOSE ON A CORNER!!!! IF IT'S STOCK CAST


ok heres a book picture of the intake removed... this is a big block picture..

NOW WERE READY FOR THE MEAT AND POTATO'S

!!!! WITH YOUR INTAKE REMOVED AND THE TIMING COVER REMOVED !!!!

install your balancer installer tool into the end of the crank..
this is a excellent way to rotate your engine..
YOU SHOULD REMOVE ALL YOUR SPARK PLUGS AT THIS TIME
this will make rotating your engine much easier. and a excellent time to install your new spark plugs. when were going back together.

i don't have a picture of this tool installed at this point in the end of the crank to turn the engine over with the timing cover off..
use your imagination ..:lol:

NOW ROTATE YOUR ENGINE UNTIL THE MARK'S ARE ALIGNED

THIS WILL NOW PUT YOUR ENGINE ON # 6 TDC YUP YOU HEARD THAT CORRECT!!!! WITH THE TWO MARK'S ALIGNED YOUR ENGINE IS ON #6 TDC

....NOTE TO SELF THIS RIGHT HERE IS WHERE MOST PEOPLE JUST REPLACING THE TIMING CHAIN AND GEARS, LEAVE THE ENGINE ON THESE TWO MARKS AND REINSTALL THE DIZZY AND WIND UP 180 OUT ON THE TIMING....

NOW...

back off all the rockers just until loose and remove the push rods :metal:
now your in the valley :lol:

use a needle nose and remove all the lifters from there bores
inspect your old lifter bottoms and look for ware!!!!

remove your fuel pump now so the fuel pump rod will clear the cam lobes

now you can loosen up the cam gear bolts and remove the cam gear. the timing chain will follow..

very carefully remove your cam shaft turning to clear the lobes and not scratch up your cam bearings.. they do make a tool for this..
a 4" bolt will work great for a Handel.

you can also check your old cam lobes to see if you got any worn down. (as theres many reason's to be doing this job)



now we will be using our three jaw puller to remove the crank gear or a special crank gear puller.. heres a couple pictures

now with the cam gear off is a great time to look at the face of your block to see if it's a 10 20 high nickle block it will be cast into the face behind the cam gear

OK LETS INSTALL THIS CAM AND LIFTERS :)

get your new cam out of the box. use the paste lobe lube, on each lobe of the cam all the way around each one.
i use Assembly lube on the round bearing lobe. use your install Handel or the 4" long bolt and very carefully reinstall the cam into your engine. turning the cam to clear the race's in the block..go slow and carefully;)

get your lifters out and ready to install at this time too.

get your lifters out and put the paste break in lube on the bottoms and the (red in my case) ASSEMBELY LUBE around the outsides and install them into the bores ALL 16

NOW INSTALL YOUR TIMING CHAIN AND GEARS

install the bottom crank gear i have a brass round 6" long rod a punch like tool that i use to tap it in to place, you will feel it when it set's on the crank boss..make sure it's fully on.

next with the chain on the cam gear hold it up in place to see it you need to turn your cam to line up with the pin. theres a hole in the cam gear these need to match up.

then install the chain and gear, until you get the mark's lined up. it may take a couple try's to get it right..

next use your lock tight on the cam bolts and install. (use your bolt lock kit if your using one) tighten to spec.

install your new front cover, balancer seal.
now get your timing cover gasket and sealer,put the cover back on the engine.. you may need to loosen up the front of the pan to get the front cover back on the two alignment pins, install all your cover bolts.

now get all your push rods installed

sit each one back in it's hole, sitting ontop of the new lifters, sit each rocker back on each push rod..

lets install your balancer back on using your installer tool. lube the front cover seal and the seal surface on the balancer.

you can also reinstall your fuel pump. lube the ends of the rod with the paste lube and the sides with the red lube..

NOW YOU STILL HAVE YOUR BALANCER TOOL INSTALLED AFTER INSTALLING YOUR BALANCER.

TURN YOUR ENGINE ONE REVOLUTION AND GET THE MARK LINED UP WITH THE TIMING TAB @ZERO
YOUR NOW ON TDC #1..
if you pass this or mess up. hold pressure down on the first two push rods on the drivers side #1 cyl and turn the engine around till both push rods don't move and the marks are lined up..this is TDC #1 COMPRESSION STROKE.

NOW YOUR READY FOR VALVE ADJUSTMENT
The adjustment is 1/2 turn down from zero lash. MOST LIKE 1/2 TURN...(BOOK SAID 1 TURN?)

In order for the hydraulic lifter to work correctly, it must be centered.
If your valves have come out of adjustment after several thousand miles of
operation, suspect your rocker arm nuts, and replace them. They do wear out
after constant adjustments.


When adjusting your valves, tighten all adjusting nuts until all lash is
removed by feeling the rotation and up and down movement of the pushrod. Next, WE JUST SET YOUR ENGINE ON TDC #1, pointer at "0". You can now adjust the following valves:


INTAKE on cylinders 1,2,5,7
EXHAUST on cylinders 1,3,4,8


Loosen the adjusting nut until lash is felt by rotating the pushrod. Then
tighten the adjusting nut while rotating the pushrod until all lash is
removed. Now tighten the adjusting nut 1 full turn. This "centers" your
lifter.


After you have adjusted the above valves, rotate you engine 360 degrees
bringing the pointer around to the 0 TDC mark. This is TDC #6. Adjust the
following valves in the same manner:


INTAKE on cylinders 3,4,6,8
EXHAUST on cylinders 2,5,6,7


Your valves are now adjusted properly.

YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SIP ONE BEER AT THIS POINT :)

lets get the intake manifold installed.
everything has got to be clean for this move. the bottom of the intake, the block..use your head here.

i use silicone on the front and rear rails and use thread sealer on the four center intake manifold bolts, because there open ended, and like to leak. 1/4 inch bead of sealer on the front and rear rails.

install the intake manifold and thighten to spec. and tighten bolts in order listed

i would change the oil now at this point.. i dump the oil in thru the dizzy hole.

NOWS THE TIME TO PRIME THE ENGINE..

use your priming tool and pump it up. your going to be filling all the push rods and wetting the lifters. before the start-up here..
heres a few pictures

you can install your new parts
plugs
valve covers
water pump
crank pulley and bolt
water pump pulley
heater core hoses
radiator
top and bottom radiator hoes
trans lines
fuel pump line
shroud
cooling fan
anything removed up front.
a/c
alt.
carb base gasket if needed.
linkage
vacuum hoses.
wires (electrical)

lets install the dizzy now..

install the new dizzy gasket
lube the dizzy drive gear with the paste lube.

install the dizzy with the rotor pointing towards the #1 cyl.
you may need to spin the oil pump shaft to get it to drop in here guy's.

look at the end of the dizzy and note the postion of the oil pump shaft.
you will see what needs to be lined up.

realign the base with the mark you made where the rotor was pointing when we started this job..

install the dizzy hold down clamp.and snug down.
the firing order is:
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
number #1 can be any where on the you want... but factory is the first one BEFORE the window (points) or FIRST ONE AFTER where the wires plug in on a (HEI)
CLOCKWISE ROTATION

install your wires. reg or HEI
RECONNECT YOUR BATTERY CABLE.

fill the radiator. have some trans fluid ready.

this bad boy needs to run for 20 min at 2000 rpm.

SET YOUR TIMING..

check the fluids and watch the temp.
it's always nice to have a second person around for this..:c2:
DRINK BEER !!!!!

i started this today a 1:00 pm it's now 10:00 pm. i can only hope someone get's some use from this FAQ.
YOUR PAL MARK:fb:

Very nice write-up Mark.
Thanks!

Nice job Mark!

GR8 Tech for even the non-rookie. Ya NEVER know when ya might start sipping on that beer too early in the process and lose your valve train of thought:rolleyes: .:lol: :lol: AS I have said befor I look forward to reading your threads and posts. Very helpful to the novice and the experienced :metal: