:new:
this is pretty ruff, but you see where I am starting.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/Feb2006schoolcamera091.jpg

Here is a much more dirty SS with dual LQ9's :devil:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/JanII2007080.jpg


Update:
that little piece of MAP casued me to pull the intake...I need new intake gaskets??? any Ideas
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster027.jpg

I also fixed the broken fuel reg (I think??) vaccume ref port. I used some JB weld, I hope it works...my next solution was to remove the PC valve and use that port but I need more info about removing the PVC system and adding catch cans?? suggestions??

next pic is the two wire bundles that I need to fix/connect
this is the one that goes to the trans
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster015.jpg

2.1.07 update.
Got the motor mounts and started putting them on. But the passenger side hit the AC...so off goes the AC compressor and the EGR stuff on that side too, it looks better the more crap I take off.
Mount and plate
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster029.jpg


Plates and motor mounts. I did not like the 'feel' of the motor mounts they seem weak :confused:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster031.jpg


I am working on the block of plates and figureing out what I will remove/unused. What has anyone else removed on their conversions??

and I need to fix the date on my camera :bang:

Great motor to use. That should be an awesome truck when done...:)

Hey I'm doing the mock up for this same engine on a 1958 chevy pickup as we speak. I' also using the same motor mounts as you. I should have the mock up completed this weekend.

Good luck with your project.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_79_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_80_full.jpg

What's that engine out of?

Mine is out of a 2003 Chevy Tahoe

2002 Esclade AWD here.

Kabwe-I bet we will have our sitting inplace at the same time...and sorting out the wiring, do you have any ideas about how you are going to wire your harness?? DO you have DBW? Kepping AC? Emissions??

I will post more that MAP sensore was $80 :(

I will be going with a complete stand alone harness many companies to choose from like 750 bucks though dang. But its only money and I have spent that much on things I didn't really want and no longer have, plus you only live once as far as I know so you mightest well enjoy it. On my 55 210 I used the factory harness and never really like the way it looked. I have a know a guy with a 1947 Caddy with 6.0 liter in it and you can't see one wire, I really like how it looks. I want to mount the computer under the seat in my cab and want a harness made from scratch. I don't have to worry about emissions it’s a 1955 and I live in cali, and I will be going with a after market AC unit like Vintage Air.

I’m only doing the mockup now so that I can blast and paint the frame. The engine is coming back out one I’m satisfied with how its setting in there.

Here are some pics of that caddy with him parked next to my 55 I told him to move that thing because it deserves an area that is roped off just for him.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2059000-2059999/2059379_42_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2059000-2059999/2059379_44_full.jpg


Kabwe

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2059000-2059999/2059379_45_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2059000-2059999/2059379_46_full.jpg

nice!
I got mine mocked up last night and it sitt really low! I need to move the engine up and back...
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster052.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster046.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/thriftmaster049.jpg

No transmission? It sure would help with the mock up. What transmission do you plan to run anyway? I put my cab back on (no firewall issues) and my radiator support to make sure. Let me see a pic of your engine mounts. I'm going to finish mine Friday I have the day off I will post pics when I finish. I have to modify my frame mounts (the butt heads sent me the wrong ones and I just don't want to deal with that company again so I will just modify them and call it a loss).

DO you have DBW?

:(

I forgot to answer this question. The drive by wire throttle body that came with my engine is going to be swap out for a drive by cable throttle body. I brought my drive by cable throttle body on ebay for 35 bucks plus shipping. I think it came to 47 bucks total. Its a couple of people on this site that are using the drive by wire. You need the gas pedal assembly to go that route I just chose not to the simpler that better is my motto. Who knows I may change my mind when I get to that point.

No transmission? It sure would help with the mock up. What transmission do you plan to run anyway? I put my cab back on (no firewall issues) and my radiator support to make sure. Let me see a pic of your engine mounts. I'm going to finish mine Friday I have the day off I will post pics when I finish. I have to modify my frame mounts (the butt heads sent me the wrong ones and I just don't want to deal with that company again so I will just modify them and call it a loss).

there is a pic of the motor mount up earlier in the post.
I will either run a 4L60 or 4L80 depending which I find and $$$

there is a pic of the motor mount up earlier in the post.


I'm talking about the Frame mounts.

they are from RBsObsolete, I'll check for a pic they are just bolt on brackets with a tube for the motor mount.

What Mustang II kit are you using?

I'm using a total cost involved mustang II unit

What Mustang II kit are you using?

RBsObslete Bolt in unit. It was all bolt in. the motor mounts bolt up to the top inside corner of the spring hat.

Im putting an LS6/T56 in my '52 so Im watching this thread...good work

Im putting an LS6/T56 in my '52 so Im watching this thread...good work



Will a T56 work (stand up) in back of a LS6, how much HP will your LS put out !!

Well Joe I was able to drop mine in this weekend. I have the pull the engine to finish the welds but here are some picks.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_81_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_82_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_83_full.jpg

Will a T56 work (stand up) in back of a LS6, how much HP will your LS put out !!

yes it should...and Im planning on around 450 at the rear wheels...

the standard block has been bored .010 over and the heads have been slightly cleaned up. With a decent cam and a good carb(dropping efi) I should get my goal...

Looks good, I moved mine back and up, but need to check the draive shaft for clearence before I weld up the brackets.

Detroit3100,

How low is your oil pan setting?

I was thinking of the RB bolt in, is it just the crossmember or did you get the rest from them? If you don't mind how much? Did you box the frame? Thanks, that's looking good!

Detroit3100,

How low is your oil pan setting?

after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.

I was thinking of the RB bolt in, is it just the crossmember or did you get the rest from them? If you don't mind how much? Did you box the frame? Thanks, that's looking good!

I got just the crossmember, I think it was $600 or so, and the control arms and bags were from ziggs.
I did not box the frame more than the sections that are near the crossmember, b/c it came w/the kit. I think the bolt it kit give an older appearence.

after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.



Are you saying your engine is setting to high now?

[QUOTE=Detroit3100;2030536]after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.

Be carefull with raising the motor that much, you might have issues with the trans tunnel, I have my LS1/4L60e sitting high but it still looks like it's sitting low, I used the original motor mounts but had brackets made which were the same height as the og brackets.

Take a look at what I've done so far with my build.
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y123/Howise1/55%20Chevy%20Truck/

Kabwe.

I meet that guy with the Caddy 2 years ago and that thing was the best car at Route 66, he had a 5.3L setup that he was selling for a great price but I already had my engine/trans already...

Hopefully I'll have my truck ready in the next couple months, it's body work time.

Kabwe.

I meet that guy with the Caddy 2 years ago and that thing was the best car at Route 66, he had a 5.3L setup that he was selling for a great price but I already had my engine/trans already...

Hopefully I'll have my truck ready in the next couple months, it's body work time.[/QUOTE]

Yeah Homer is a very nice guy and he has a couple of nice rides, but nothing as nice as that caddy.

I checked out you build a while back. I found it on the internet how is it going? any updates?

I checked out you build a while back. I found it on the internet how is it going? any updates?

It's been slow coming but I've started the body work now, I've Epoxy primed the fenders and doors and will be starting the filler work on them this week, once finished I'll work on the hood, I killed my grinder trying to strip the old paint off so I need a new one, do you know what is the best method to strip the paint from the underside of the hood without getting it blasted? I can use the grinder with the red abrasive pad but that won't get into all the little areas that need cleaning.

BTW: Your build is looking good. Is there a preference to using the camaro clip as opposed to the Mustand II?

It's been slow coming but I've started the body work now, I've Epoxy primed the fenders and doors and will be starting the filler work on them this week, once finished I'll work on the hood, I killed my grinder trying to strip the old paint off so I need a new one, do you know what is the best method to strip the paint from the underside of the hood without getting it blasted? I can use the grinder with the red abrasive pad but that won't get into all the little areas that need cleaning.

BTW: Your build is looking good. Is there a preference to using the camaro clip as opposed to the Mustand II?

Have you tried the aircraft paint striper? It works really well. Just wear some big rubber gloves and long sleeves cause man this stuff burns when its on your skin. We striped a 56 chevy with this stuff and man it was easy. You can buy it at autozone. The way I use it is like this you use a brush to apply the stripper only brush on in one direction. Then you have it all on cover with plastic (you don't have to do this but I find it keeps the stripper from drying to fast) and then scrap off the old paint with a putty knife. Then I use a power washer to wash it down. A water hose is okay also, but I'm kind of addicted to tools.lol Man this stuff works great and its fast no time at all.

As for the Mustang II vs. Camaro clip there is nothing wrong with either in my opinion. I've done volares, Gm clips, and Mustang II and all are nice if done right with my perference being GM clips and Mustang II. I done the Mustang II this time because of the ease of installation. I had a volare clip on this truck, but when I started thinking I may want to bag the truck later I sold that frame and done the mustang II on my new frame.

Kawbe,

Would you mind to p.m. me a number I can reach you at? I have some questions about your door rebuild. BTW that truck is looking real good. I have decided to turn mine into a 4-wheel drive instead of the hot rod I first intended on. I love hot rods but I really need a 4-wheel drive also. So I'm going to have the best of both worlds.

Thanks again,

B.Sharp

Kawbe,

Would you mind to p.m. me a number I can reach you at? I have some questions about your door rebuild. BTW that truck is looking real good. I have decided to turn mine into a 4-wheel drive instead of the hot rod I first intended on. I love hot rods but I really need a 4-wheel drive also. So I'm going to have the best of both worlds.

Thanks again,

B.Sharp

Sure I will do that right now.

Are you saying your engine is setting to high now?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/Feb142007026.jpg


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/Feb142007027.jpg

My trans tunnel is what I am worried about now. I think it will go about 1/2 that high and forward another inch or so.

I wish GM would get in gear so I could be getting a 6L80 tans:gi:

progress is slow but I won a MAP sensor on egay for $16...now I hope it works

Yeah I had to buy one off of ebay but I paid 35 bucks I think.

anymore pics? Im about to mock my ls6/t56 up friday and hope to have it in for sure by this weekend...

what oil pan did yall use?

I used the oil that came with the 5.3 engine, but I think I'm going to modify it because it hangs about 2 inches lower than my crossmember.

I think Im going to use a Camaro one...I have dimensions from street and preformance and its like the same as the truck pan but the sump is not as deep...

So the camaro one is a rear sump also? If so I will do the same

So the camaro one is a rear sump also? If so I will do the same

I would go with the Camaro pan it seems to fit better. That's what I have and it cleared the crossmember.

Thanks for the heads up on the Camaro oil pan, I will start looking for one. Here is a pic of the engine, trans, and ride height mockup ( I use round stock instead of springs and shocks because springs take time to settle. I running coilovers waiting on time right now). It all has to come back out so that I can blast and paint the frame. Its nice to have it sitting on four wheels again its been so long even though its going to be strippe back down.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2143000-2143999/2143604_84_full.jpg

think I can fit long tubes in there?

Yeap, just get some Pacesetter long 1 3/4" long tube, get the racing kind that has no EGR connectors if you're not going to use the EGR stuff. You will need to do a little massaging on the drivers side where the primaries merge with the collector, it needs to be move in about 2".

I am going to try and use OBX long tube headers.

I have to post some more pics of the new mounts I made.

I am going to try and use OBX long tube headers.

I have to post some more pics of the new mounts I made.

I don't know much about the OBX but the Pacesetter long tube tuck really nice with the Camaro clip with minor mods.

Man, following this thread is ruining me! I was all set and ready to build a 496 for my '55, but after seeing this thread and also after getting the latest Car Craft (May 2007), I might be changing my mind. It seems that Chevy is offering the badass (310 cfm ports, 15 deg valve, big valve) L92 aluminum heads for $798.50 a pair COMPLETE. Car Craft had to buy rocker arms, stands, bolts, and LS-6 valvesprings also, but it only came to an extra $250. So, for a little over a grand, you've got a set of heads that match the numbers that the aftermarket heads have for a third of the price. Also, GM has a carb manifold for $299. As far as a Big Block buildup, I'm looking at over $2600 for aluminum heads and intake. That $1250 difference in price between the two could go towards finding a 6.0 shortblock.

So what I'm getting at.....Car Craft took a stock 6.0 bottom end, bolted a set of L92 heads, intake , 850 Holley, and a mild cam (228/230 @.050, 571/573 lift on a 112 LSA) and made 551 horsepower! What I find so cool about this combo is that- 1: it's all aluminum and lightweight. 2: You are making big-time power with a relatively mild combination. 3: The LS series engine technology is extremely impressive. 4: Car Craft built this combo for $4999. Yeah, that's alot of scratch, but 550 horsepower for that money with mostly brand-new high tech parts is impressive.

My younger brothers are big LS-series fans, and I drove one of their cars with a stock 5.3 long block, long tubes, mild cam, and an LS-6 intake with 4.10 gears, and it was a rocketship. I became a LS-series fan as soon as I romped on it and it went sideways in second gear. GM really did their homework on this motor, and if you ever get to see one torn down to the bare block, you will be blown away at the cool details they put in it.

Man, following this thread is ruining me! I was all set and ready to build a 496 for my '55, but after seeing this thread and also after getting the latest Car Craft (May 2007), I might be changing my mind. It seems that Chevy is offering the badass (310 cfm ports, 15 deg valve, big valve) L92 aluminum heads for $798.50 a pair COMPLETE. Car Craft had to buy rocker arms, stands, bolts, and LS-6 valvesprings also, but it only came to an extra $250. So, for a little over a grand, you've got a set of heads that match the numbers that the aftermarket heads have for a third of the price. Also, GM has a carb manifold for $299. As far as a Big Block buildup, I'm looking at over $2600 for aluminum heads and intake. That $1250 difference in price between the two could go towards finding a 6.0 shortblock.

So what I'm getting at.....Car Craft took a stock 6.0 bottom end, bolted a set of L92 heads, intake , 850 Holley, and a mild cam (228/230 @.050, 571/573 lift on a 112 LSA) and made 551 horsepower! What I find so cool about this combo is that- 1: it's all aluminum and lightweight. 2: You are making big-time power with a relatively mild combination. 3: The LS series engine technology is extremely impressive. 4: Car Craft built this combo for $4999. Yeah, that's alot of scratch, but 550 horsepower for that money with mostly brand-new high tech parts is impressive.

My younger brothers are big LS-series fans, and I drove one of their cars with a stock 5.3 long block, long tubes, mild cam, and an LS-6 intake with 4.10 gears, and it was a rocketship. I became a LS-series fan as soon as I romped on it and it went sideways in second gear. GM really did their homework on this motor, and if you ever get to see one torn down to the bare block, you will be blown away at the cool details they put in it.


Don't lose you head now, I saw the article and I've been looking at doing the same thing with a 6.0 LQ9 motor that I have, however there's other ways to go about getting the same horse power, with the EFI setup. I've priced some stuff.
A L76/l92 car intake manifold, complete with fuel rail and 40lb injector with drive by wire throttle body can be had for $529.
L92 heads and rockers are $1050 or you could get CNC ported set with dual valves springs for $1499, this has showned to produce >30HP over the stock head.
A killer cam for another $500, Cometic gasket and ARP head bolts another $300,
For $2379 or $2828, you can get a more effiecient setup, that's what I'll be doing with the 6.0L after putting some miles on my 5.7 LS1 motor.

I'm sure if you look around you can find a 6.0L motor for under a $1000, so for around $4000 you can have a nice setup.
A word of caution, make sure you have the rearend to handle this kind of power. I have a 9" with 3.70 gears and a 4 link.

Thanks for the info on the EFI. Is there any limitations with the EFI if you're running a big cam? Most systems have a limit to where the MAP can accept the low vacuum signal that a big cam inherently produces. As much as I like the EFI, my truck has kind of a street-rod gasser look and I think the carb would look fit the look better. My truck has a narrowed 9-inch with a 3.70 posi, also. It has been narrowed with 29x15.50 tires, but is a leaf-spring set-up. It was originally going to be a shop truck thrasher, but I wanted a big tire and the low-buck thing went astray.

From what I've read, most cams in the low 230 duration range will work very well with this setup, You could always run without the MAP and get a speed density tune. But if you're the street rod type then go for the carb but remember you'll need the MSD box, that's pricey.

I am getting motivated again. My wife had our fourth son 4/21/07-william. So I have been distracted. I kind of figureed out my trans, traded w/a guy of craigslist.. Kept the AWD transfercase as a spare for the SSS.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/easterautocrosswilliam033.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/easterautocrosswilliam034.jpg

now I can weld up the transcross member.
How much angle should I have in the engine?? Any way to measure it w/o an angle tool?

How about the driveshaft clearing the rear crossmember behind the cab, will you have enough clearence?

Just by looking at it, I think it's a little too high, you might have problems with the tunnel. You should try to get the engine as level as possible. Good job on boxing the frame! What type of shocks are you using with the front bags?

Tri5

I am not worried about the tunnel, my floor has a little rust:) for to aft is where I dont want to mess with the fire wall. Engine is level, the buble sits on the line giving it a slight lean to the back. The SHocks came with the Airbag kit...which I am questioning b/c it might keep me off the drag strip, still deciding to keep the bags or get some springs.

I am going to clearence the shaft and the crossmember using some tubing welded into the crossmember, and in the pic it is off b/c I have the jack under there, when I took it out the engine leveled up nice, and my home made motor mounts worked, I gave myself 50/50 odds at them working the first time.

oh yea the frame is not boxed yet, just the pic I guess

just to give an example of the engine height in relation to the cab (51 GMC), here is a couple of pics that show the installed height of engine. first pic shows the bottom of the A/C compressor mounted on a 5.3 truck motor & the notch I cut in the cross member of the 84 Monte front clip. The second pic shows the trans protruding into the floor. I could not get around moding the floor & keep the motor where I wanted it. I did raise the front clip up to get the stance I want tho. so this might not be the best example to make comparisions to. Still have not driven it yet because I'm still working on the body, but it sure sounds good!

go buy an angle reader...5 bucks are home depot. You want it at 3 degrees back...

just make sure the angle finder is right. the one i bought from home depot is 2 degrees off. set it on a level and make sure it zero's out.

update july/august.
real dont know what to do next?? any suggestions? I am going to pull the cab back off and start the floors and frame mounts so it can bolt up to the frame. I have a bunch of other stuff, fuel tank brakes, plumbing. Anybody know good places that sell kits to get the entire project done at one time?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/1950%20Thriftmaster/july28zippy015.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/1950%20Thriftmaster/july28zippy014.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/1950%20Thriftmaster/july28zippy017.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/1950%20Thriftmaster/july28zippy019.jpg

I don't know of any kits, but what you need to do is take that young man and teach him how to weld and turn wrenches and that you can have him do it while you drink beer....LMAO.

Bernie

I don't know how true it is, but someone told me that when you remove the center crossmsmber and cab you might have trouble lining up the hood when you start the re assembly. So let me know how your mock up goes on re assembly !!!!

Detroit 3100 any idea on after market harness and re flashing the computer, and do you need the pressurized fuel tank and how about the antilock brake sensors... I just have a few questions =). I'm considering the same swap!!

I don't know how true it is, but someone told me that when you remove the center crossmsmber and cab you might have trouble lining up the hood when you start the re assembly. So let me know how your mock up goes on re assembly !!!!
I am not going to touch that, too much strength there.
Detroit 3100 any idea on after market harness and re flashing the computer, and do you need the pressurized fuel tank and how about the antilock brake sensors... I just have a few questions =). I'm considering the same swap!!
I want to make my own harness. I have a real good tuner who I can send the PCM to tune, remove emissions and security. fuel tank I am looking @ the summit one. external pump fliter and my engine has a return type fuel system so there is a line going back to the tank. I am looking for a more rat rod fuel system but have not had any info for keeping the EFI but using old school fuel pumps???
ABS-dont know, but I dont think the engine PCM controls the brake system.
New pics.
THe hole I cut for new floor pans.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/0ct18texas101.jpg
Engine
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/0ct18texas100.jpg
Aired down
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/oct2007038.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/hunting2007openingday043.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007361.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007362.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007363.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007367.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007409.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007387.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007385.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Detroitallroad/dec2007383.jpg

Looks like you guys are makeing some progress keep up the good work.