Has anybody out there tried this paint? Is it any good?
I used it on a firewall steering column bracket and followed the directions per the can. It sprayed on glossy and dried flat black. It "seems" like it might be fine for use on radiator supports, inner fenders and such. Any experience or should I use something else???

It's nice stuff, but it's not POR-15 or Rustbullet and a top coat. I guess it depends on whether you're painting rusty metal or not IMO.

You can scratch off rustoleum paint with a screwdriver pretty easy, it just about takes a grinder to get dried por-15 or rustbullet off.

Whats your impression of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator?

I was not at all impressed with the Rustoleum rust preventative spray bombs. I tried their primer & glossy black. It rusted about as fast as if I've left bare metal.

On my inner fenders/radiator supports/etc I use the el-cheapo rust preventative from Wal-Mart. The gloss black covers much better than the flat black.

POR15 is still probably a git better though.

I've always been quite pleased with rustoleum spray bombs. But to each their own I guess.

I've used both POR-15 and Eastwood's Corliss/Rust encapsulator product. POR claims their product is good for underbody applications, where UV light can't get to it. This is true. I put some on part of a fender, then left it out for about three or four months. It had oxydized badly and was well on its way to deteriorating. It is also not very topcoat friendly, and doesn't stick to painted surfaces that well. For rusty metal, battery boxes, etc. it is great. Come to think of it, I painted the front suspension of my '92 c-1500 with it several years ago, and it's just now needing another coat. Eastwood's Corliss/Rust Encapsulator product is basically a primer with a 'glass leaf' structure that inhibits rust and prevents it from advancing through the primer. I've used it on fenders where 'blisters' of rust were present. Building up at least two or three coats, then feathering to the adjacent finish, sealing, and following with a topcoat of acrylic enamel or polyurethane enamel. Saw a car after doing this repair three years later, no signs of rust popping through in locations of blisters. Sandblasted a truck frame last spring, painted with two coats of encapsulator, been sitting outside since, no rust present as of yet. Personally, I think the rust encapsulator product has more uses. Either one sure beats Rustoleum in my book... Hope this helps

That's exactly why I thought I would try Encapsulator, It does seem to have more uses! You mention the blistering on fenders and that is the way I was considering using this product. I messaged Larry Lyles of AutoRestorer Magazine, he said he has used it for years without any failures, and he restores a lot of vehicles. He also topcoats with the wax based anti rust compound that is self healing that Eastwood Ind. came out with. My doors on my 71 have the typical corrosion on the bottoms, so I'm going to use it heavily there. Larry thins it out, and shoots 3 coats using a bedliner spray gun. In his opinion, most failures are due to not getting enough of the paint where it needs to be, and uses a minimum of 3 coats, and by the sound of it you can't put it on too thick. It seems to shrink down tightly on the metal as it dries and can be top coated with anything. I'm trying to steer away from POR because it seems like no matter what I do, if I open a can and don't use it all it goes bad, and it's difficult to topcoat with anything. Not so with the rust encapsulator. The POR is full of ISO's, none in the R/E, but it still gets a little fumey in the garage. I have a couple small cans of POR left, when I use it up I probably won't order anymore.

Yeah, I'd have to agree with him and you. I recently put just one coat of the rust encapsulator on a car hauler frame (the weather caught me) and it has just a hint of rusting in a couple places. I usually shoot a minimum of two coats for good coverage. (I just rolled this on, however. It'll get abused anyway.) On the por-15, something you may want to try, next time you open a can, and then go to close it back, take a thin plastic shopping bag, or a piece of saran wrap and place it directly over the paint inside the can, and let it come up and out the top, then place the lid over this and hammer it down. This will prevent it 'gluing' itself shut, and keep the oxygen off the paint surface. I've had better luck with this, but it still will eventually go bad. Just plan on painting more stuff. (with the garage door open, of course, and with the mask on!) By the way, while on the subject, I ran into someone the other day that owns a company making concrete beams for bridges, etc. They have a shop and maintain all their own equipment. He was saying that one of their guys actually added por-15 to some enamel paint, stirred it up and painted the bed of one of their haulers with it. Didn't get to see it, but he was pretty impressed with it. (he must've used the clear, I'd imagine, as their trucks are red.) Oh well, I'll still stick with Eastwood for most uses.....

Oh, by the way, I happened to remember something I had intended to include. One thing I have found that the rust encapsulator can't be topcoated with directly. Bed Liner. Some of them come in a kit with a roller for application, etc. This will soften and bring the rust encapsulator up. So I'd recommend topcoating first with a traditional automotive paint, allowing that to cure, then applying the bed liner if one is needed. Found this out the hard way on the bottom (rocker panel area) of a Jeep Cherokee I had. After I finally got it finished, it looked pretty neat, and rocks didn't phase it. But, I did have to back up and paint it first and then apply the bed liner over the finished paint. Oh well, now I know.....