$$PROJECT MONEY PIT$$

ok, I've been on here nearly a year and have been working on the K-10. I have a ton of pics saved up and decided to finally put something into a build thread. The wife named the project, figures:me2: She figured since it's green and takes all the extra money in the house that it fits....

So about the truck, it was a 1 owner Upsate New York truck that was owned by a mechanic. When I bought it off Ebay ($1600) it had a monster custom front steel push bumper welded onto the front and a matching rear bumper with a welded hook on it. They were both attached right and did zero damage over it's 30 years of service. The gentlemen use to push or pull cars home to his garage that were stranded.

This thread will be a quick recap of the past year and a weekly update after that. It will go on hold in Oct 07 when I leave for Alabama for 6 months to attend a military school. As a daily job I am a Captain in the US Army instructing pilots in the UH-60 Blackhawk Helicopter.

Here's some specs, numbers matching truck with glove box sticker intact
1968 K-10 SWB fleetside truck (1 owner) only 1449 built like it
327 cid, 4bbl, Rockwell T-221 TC, 4 speed saginaw tranny (granny gear)
Wood Bed (came with NOS wood)
tach dash
tow hooks
HD front springs
HD cooling
70K on the odometer (flipped? or used hard)
west coast JR mirrors
manual throttle
manual steering
manual brakes

Goals:
1. Get it running
2. learn more about the truck and it's components while finding a new hobby
3. avoid truck payments!
4. Have a good reliable classic truck and will get a thumbs up every now and then
5. Keep food on the table throughout build
6. add power disc front brakes, rear gas tank, tilt wheel, A/C (future upgrade), reese hitch all while keeping a fairly stock appearance and pay respect to the truck...(no hoopty ghetto crap!)

Enjoy the pics and feel free to leave comments

Cool! It looks pretty solid to me. Are those rockers still the originals? If so, I'm jealous! :lol:

Have fun & keep the pics coming as you dive into it :metal:

"3. avoid truck payments!" Do you mean get out of truck payments? :lol:

rockers had been replaced, they didn't do inners though...?? here are some under cab pics of what I found...

Major rust issues are under the cab, driver rear support missing, pass rotted as well. Some floor areas have been repaired in the past but will all need redone. The entire frame had been undercoated which protected a majority of it from the salt and sand of the New York winters.

"3. avoid truck payments!" Do you mean get out of truck payments? :lol:

YEP:lol:

I tackled #3 shortly after that pic. Sold the HEMI Ram for what I owed and got out from under a $400 payment. Did the wife give me that money....NOPE:bs:

now I drive a free Camry to work that her parents gave us... 175K and still running. Once our Tahoe is paid off then i'll get another new vehicle though!

Mike,you forgot to mention the truck is one of 1449.

Mike,you forgot to mention the truck is one of 1449.

oh yeah... I just watched a twin of my truck sell for $1200 on Ebay and it was in PA. 292 with no tach and a bad tranny... More pics and updates to follow..

More pics from the beginning of the build. Some of these were from the Ebay auction when I got the truck....

more pics... truck had been sitting behind the shop for 7 years. It started with a little gas dumped into the carb and drove itself onto the trailer....:metal:

First plan, get it running....

started with an oil change and new fuel pump....no good

then the carb and intake (Ebay for $100 as a combo)...fired but didn't idle well

then HEI dizzy and another Holley carb.... ran like a beast:metal:

IT'S ALIVE! great oil pressure, no knocks, 130'ish psi in all cylinders....

It's Alive... the video linky

http://picasaweb.google.com/hawkdriver2002/TheTeardown/photo#5022180332332331298

very nice truck, even if it is a "money pit"

Decided to try a few wheels to get a feel for the Pit....

picked up a set of 33"x10.5x15's BFG's AT for $150 (for all 4!) with 1,000 miles on them from Ebay.... I wanted 12.5 width but couldn't pass the deal up. Also got a set of 15x10 wagon wheels for $30 local and tried one out. Decided that 10" is to wide for the tire so I kept searching. Then I found a set of 15 x 8 MT Classic II's on Ebay for $280 local (used three days) and liked them better...

I like this look better...

I like this look better...

AbSoFRiggN LuteLy! :metal:

I prefer the M/Ts to the wagon wheels any day.But...I like the 15x8 stock rims too.

I prefer the M/Ts to the wagon wheels any day.But...I like the 15x8 stock rims too.


If I had four nice one's like my original pics rear rims then that would be cool. Add original hubcaps with new age tread and size!

I want the truck to look original at first glance except the rims, then you notice small improvements over stock (i.e. nicer paint, tilt, A/C?, rear poly tank, power front disc brakes, LED taillights, Reese hitch, Rancho 9000's with hidden in-cab controls, hidden stereo, etc...)

thanks c-mac for the compliments, the truck was pretty nasty underneath though! inches of gunk on all crossmembers, surface rust and old undercoating on everything else. You can look at my pics on the sig if you want a newer look. I'll get more posted as I go....

Pretty much the same way mine is.All stock looking but the lift,tires,and the motor looks fairly stock.The interior looks original and the body does too.But,there is the added original a/c,tilt,etc.
I plan to one day get some 15x8 rims and stock hub caps and have the current set and the 15X8s with a less agressive tread.

Noticeable difference will be the shadow that yours cast with a 6" lift! Don't know if this will ever make the 600 mile trip, unless I get my own trailer and come to a show in the future! I'd like to find a nice set of buddy buckets someday too...

not a bad looking truck, in that start up vid is it open exhaust?

i had a bunch of crap on my crossmembers and in the nooks and crannies to, nothin a pressure washer couldnt take care of though

Lookin good :c2:

Noticeable difference will be the shadow that yours cast with a 6" lift! Don't know if this will ever make the 600 mile trip, unless I get my own trailer and come to a show in the future! I'd like to find a nice set of buddy buckets someday too...

Noticeable difference will be the shadow that yours cast with a 6" lift!
:haha:
If you dont want to go with the 68 style buckets I might have a line on 2 sets of buckets from a blazer.I'm gonna use one set in my truck but if you want I can get the other set for your truck.I'm in luck cause they are like what my truck had but they are different than the 67-68 style.I suppose you could go back to originals someday when you find them though...Oh,and Super Chevy at Indy...That would be the show to go to.

It don't cast that much of a shadow..:lol: :)

Hey Mike,did you find a passenger exhaust manifold?I have one for you that I turned up (odd one).Let me know if you still need it.That truck will come out nice,the way you`re going at it.

I'm subscribing to this build thread.

I love the truck and not to mention it's from a fellow Pa member. :metal:

Very nice write-up and GR8 progress in your yr with it.

Hope to meet you someday soon. :) Since Spring Carlisle didn't work out for me :(

You may be a little bit south for me but, don't forget if you ever get in a pinch and need a hand with something truck related or not Don't hesitate to ask.

Keep Up the GR8 Work!! :cool:

RJ22...:)

thanks guys...

Jason, I might plan a flight and check out that Denny's Pub with the big burgers this summer... I'll let you know if we head up that way.

Tim, local board member hooked me up with a pass ramhorn, thanks... Are we doing Carlisle truck show?

GreaseMonkey, yep, I hacked off the exhaust about a foot from the manifolds so it would catch fire. The original style muffler was still installed and pretty rusted. I drove it through my sub-division like that...and with the bed off! woohoo....

Dustin, no biggy on the seats, My bench is useable and I plan on covering it until I find the Buddy's in the future... nice shadow!

Dig the progress and I really like the truck. A very classic 4x4 just to my liking.

Now for the teardown and parts fitting....

Decided to clear out the old wood bed first. The truck came with a set of NOS wood for a chevy, still had the dealers sticker on it and appears to be pretty good shape. Also removed the bed and mocked up the poly blazer tank... Removed the heavy duty steel bumper that was welded to the bottom of the rear frame rails....

I thought that the bed was in pretty good shape until I started taking it apart.... Most of the bolts under the wheel wells had rusted out and you can see the damage on the bedsides. It was a very study bed until it came apart! I know have a better set of crossmembers for the bed and new wheel wells. I need to fix all the rust issues on the bedsides before it can go back together and need to purchase a new bed panel.

so here's what the truck looked like when I dorve it down my street and back.... Had to check out the drivetrain before I started pulling it apart... I think only one brake works! Remember that this has closed knuckle Dana 44 front with drum brakes and a 12bolt rear with drum and rotted e-brake cables.

My antifreeze jug fuel cell can be seen inside the grille...

Now time to assess the cab problems...:whine:

Few suprises, since this was my first truck I didn't know what to look for when I picked it up. The driver rear cab corner had been replaced, the rockers had been replaced (no inners installed??), the rear cab supports were rotted, pass floor was getting weak from the old sound deadner (they seem to promote rust!), and one huge hole under the gas tank:confused:

I also pulled out the pass seatbelt with my hands! So new floor pans, rockers, supports and cab corners will be going in. The reast of the cab is in great shape with only a small rust issue in the back window....

Man I have a nice 67 cab I'd almost give you, but it's in AZ. It's a small window, so wouldn't really work for a 68, but I have a nice motor home cab (with the back cutout for a walk through) that would donate you a completely rust free lower half of the cab. That is sweet. I have a one of 1054 67 short fleet that'll be up and running in a few weeks that I'll post in the classifieds as soon as it's done. Gotta love a short 4X!!

I also pulled out the pass seatbelt with my hands!
:lol:
Man I have a nice 67 cab I'd almost give you, but it's in AZ. That is sweet. I have a one of 1054 67 short fleet that'll be up and running in a few weeks that I'll post in the classifieds as soon as it's done. Gotta love a short 4X!!

Lucky south westerners.I might have to move there.I was bidding,on ebay, on a 72 4wd in Southern Arizona that was 95% rust free but was outbid so I was left with the rusty northern trucks.

The cab is salvageable it's just that EVERY piece of the floor has some kinda little problem that all add up to a lot of new sheetmetal... oh well, I need to work on my welding skills anyway! It will be covered with Dynomat and rubber floor anyway....

southwesterners can't have snowball fights though!

:metal: definately try and make it up to check out Denny's Beer Barrel Pub.

I would love to meet up with ya a I will give it another try myself :lol:

It's real easy just catch Rt.322 and follow it the whole way. Denny's Pub it along Rt.322

You have less rust than I do. Thats why all things that carried body color are going to be replaced :( EVERY last piece of sheet metal

Again, Awesome build RJ22...:)

Is this stock height with the 33X10.5X15 tires on 8 inch wide rims. If so could you get me a measurement from top of front wheel opening to ground and another from top of wheel opening to center of the hub. By the way the truck looks sharp. I love the SWB 4X4's.


Jason

yep, it's the stock height but the truck is a bare frame right now... might have to wait a year until it gets panels on it again!

It has the HD spring option so it might sit a little higher than some K-10's. I am also adding an add-a-leaf in the back...

So winter was getting closer and I had a grubby, rusty, unsafe truck now... So what the heck, I decided to take it down to the frame, all the way... Since mama wants to park the Tahoe in the garage and that keeps me from taking up two bays.... 4 buddies at work are renting a 4 bay, two deep garage and are working on a 59 Apache, a 65 Mustang, a 74 Cuda and a 74 bug.... For $120 a month I got in on the garage which gave me space and access to a rotisserie, welder, torch, and other items that helped. It's only 4 miles from home but the wife has now started getting on my case about spending any time away from home. SO over the last 6 months I have spent an average of 4-5 full days a month down in the garage.... Plans are to get it rolling and get it back to my garage, work on the cab (buy my own small welder) and chip away at it rent free....

On with the build, we towed it to the shop and started the tear down...

found that a few critters had lived in the cab, two mice nests in the vents and one behind the seat.... Also think that the wire to the heater had caught fire (still worked) at one point because a fire extinguisher had been emptied into the dash.... Circuit panel was rusty so a new wiring harnass was in order. Southdisto (board member) hooked me up with a free one that he didn't need....

figured i'd use the rotisserie for the frame, as you can see it has a lot of rust and undercoating. I took many hours with the torch and putty knife to clean the frame up.

How are you going to clean the frame,prep for coating,and what will you coat it with?Oh...and can you have all that done by the time I check back?I hate to wait.

How are you going to clean the frame,prep for coating,and what will you coat it with?Oh...and can you have all that done by the time I check back?I hate to wait.

Tim's throwing me underhand softballs on this one since he knows the answer.... patients, patients... I haven't caught up to that yet....

www.nomorerust.com has some great products that Tim and I found at a car show. Frame, crossmembers, springs, axles and other parts will be sandblasted and prepped with PM Insdutries Chassis coating... My frame pics are on their website after I talked to them on the phone about my the system. He sent me a bottle of Hot Het coating for my manifolds if I would send him some pics....

So I checked out the compression on each cylinder and it averaged about 130 and that was with my battery dying. So the engine is going to get a bath, a new oil pan gasket (maybe rear main) and a spin-on oil filter adapter then paint and go for now. Tranny is getting a bath new lube and paint... Budget can't handle rebuilds right now.

"If it ain`t broke...."Did you find the other exhaust manifold?If not,I have an odd one here with your name on it.

Its good to see another 68 k10 swb fleet. Ive only a few of them and Ive been looking. Mine is alot like your, but its a 292, though. I dont know if we have the same tranny and rear ends in ours, but I know mine wont do much over 50 MPH, so you may want to change the ratios if you plan on driving it much on the highway. My grandfather had the truck for pulling people out of snowbanks when he owned a garage. Its just a tractor with a pickup box attatched.

Your truck looks like a good project. I havent seen many 67-72s with a factory tac.

Thanks MRQ, I just watched another like mine with a 292 go for $1200 on Ebay and it was in my state (PA) so there are a few out there, only 1500 or so from 68 though. My truck has a 12 bolt rear and 3.73 gears stock so hopefully it will go over 50!

So we have a few rust issues, the crossmember just behind the cab needs replaced. Picked a nice one from AZ off a board member for $55 to my door. The frame was placed onto the rotisserie so that it would be easier to scrape and blast it. My rear cab mounts are toast as you can see by the enlarged holes...

time to start cutting rivets now! I bet I took out 75+ rivets in this frame. I left the front and rear crossmembers in but most other items came off. Rust was growing in between the brackets and the only way to clean it up was to remove most of them. Only pieces of frame that needed replaced were under that crossmember and the crossmember that holds the TC skid plate. THIS RUST WAS HUNGRY!

I decided to attempt the sandblasting myself...:crazy:

picked up a $75 Harbor Freight pressure blaster and 500lbs of Coal slag ($50) from a local blasting shop. After I pick it up he tells me that he would have done my frame for $150-200:whine: SHoulda went that way... Oh well, it's all about learning new skills and acquiring new tools, right? I repaired the pieces of frame and I have to say that I was impressed with my novice welding skills....

so after fighting with a mediocre blaster and air compressor for two days I was done blasting. Decided to take the rest of my items to Bradley's Specialties in Schartlesville, PA to get Blasted. two axles, rad support, rear leafs, hitch, all crossmembers, many other small brackets for $225 cash and it was done in a day:metal:

Be sure that you have an air compressor that pumps 10+ cfm if you want to blast. Mine could only handle 30 psi continuous and it was a two stage Craftsman rated at 6-7 cfm.

Man I wish I was close to this point but, I'm not.

Lookin GR8!!

Alomost time to start reassembly :metal:

Keep Up The Awesome Work.

RJ22...:)

Nice build thread..

some good progress there

The progress so far has been over a 9 month period.... I'm actually further than that, just trying to catch up on the thread... thanks for the compliments....

Here's a close pic of my SPID label, things to note: 327 cid, HD springs, tow hooks, tach, HD cooling system,

Here are some closer pics of the frame after my sandblasting, the big companies can do it faster & more thorough, not to mention the mess that you make!

Special-K (Tim) and I were at Carlisle car show and found this product called Master Series Chassis Coating by PM Industries (www.nomorerust.com) They actually have pics of my frame on their site now. It's a urethane based system (like POR15 maybe?) that requires their sealer/primer then the top coat. Both items were $25/quart and so far I have done two coats of both on everything and only used 1.5 quarts of each. All this was done with a foam brush too! I now wish that I would have used their topcoat system (UV protection) and done a satin finish but it's to late for that. Very durable finish that is similar to powdercoat though....

two coats of primer followed by two coats of paint with 24 hours between coats.

more pics

upgrading from closed knuckle dana44 to 1982 Corporate 10 with discs and 12 bolt posi in the rear.

Frame is now off the rotisserie and crossmembers are being bolted back in...

The final pic shows the progression of the frame. This part was hidden under the support on the rotisserie so it now needs attention. You see rusty frame, then undercoating, then sealer and finally paint.

more pics tonight, springs are goin on and new energy suspension bushings as well....

Your chassis looks great Mike!

thanks... only invested $75 in paint and $50 in sand blasting plus about 50 hours of sweat equity.

ok, so I opted for the ORD HD shackles instead of reaplacing the stock one's. My local spring shop wanted $40 for four special shackle bolts, or pay ORD $44 plus shipping for their 3/8" HD shackles. I already had my energy bushings so I didn't need the greasable one's that ORD has.

After the front springs were added I was ready to bolt in the Corp10 front axle. I had a nice Dana44 but it had 3.08's and I needed 3.73's. Instead of paying $200+ to set up my old gears I found a corp10 from an 82 K-10 from a local board member and only paid $20 (thanks 67 dually). Little did I know the differences between the dana and corp axles. If you search my threads I have a detailed post on the differences.

So today I picked up a seal for the front diff and got the cover bolted down. I still need to pick up some new needle bearings and seals for the spindles. Need to install new U-joints in the axle shafts (since dana's don't work!) and its ready for the ceramic break pads and new calipers...

We are now at the present build even though I skipped a lot of my parts hunting expeditions. You will see those as I start installing them....

My goal is to have the rolling chassis out of my rented shop by the end of the month. I need to clean up the engine, tranny and TC then weld by axle perches and start moving everything back home...

Mike, all your hard work is paying off your frame looks great:)

Ray

Mike, great thread! You're making better progress than I am.
Couple of questions.

1. Any rubbing with 33's and no lift?
2. How did you get the front spring bushings out of the frame?
3. The ORD front shackles came with new bolts? How much extra lift did you get from them?
4. What did you do for rear shackles?
Thanks!
-Tim

Mike, great thread! You're making better progress than I am.
Couple of questions.

1. Any rubbing with 33's and no lift?
2. How did you get the front spring bushings out of the frame?
3. The ORD front shackles came with new bolts? How much extra lift did you get from them?
4. What did you do for rear shackles?
Thanks!
-Tim

well....
1. My 33's are only 10.5" wide and they fit fine, no lift. I tried 12.5's and they would have been close. I have the HD spring package though so it might give it a little extra boost. You might be able to do 12.5's with the right backspacing or an add-a-leaf in the front.
2. I had to use a torch on all the bushings, then air chisel the inner sleeve out, WHAT A PAIN! ORD offers the entire front bushings upgrade which replaces the stock mount in the frame (rear of front spring) which would be nice.
3. If you get the ORD greasable bushings then they come with special bolts and grease zirks. I just used the Energy Suspension package and basic grade 8 bolts from Tractor Supply. Only problem is that they don't carry 9/16" in bulk, which is what all of your other bushings need.
4. I still used the stock rear shackles and did an add-a-leaf which appears to gain about 1.5" in the rear.

Are you looking to lift or stay stock? I wouldn't say that I am making that good of progress, this has been 6 months in the making...

Mike, all your hard work is paying off your frame looks great:)

Ray


Thanks Ray... My wife is tired of it but she'll live...

Thanks for the info!
I'm looking to stay as stock as possible, but no more than 2" lift.

The ORD shackles were .5" longer but that won't net much lift. New springs and/or rear blocks will get you there. Add-a-leaf is the cheapest but stiffens the ride a lot...

Chassis is looking good,but I thought you were planning to do this in February? :hm: Just messin with you. That corp. front axle looks big sitting under the chassis.Did you decide to go with the 2wd rear axle with posi and weld the perches on that axle?

Chassis is looking good,but I thought you were planning to do this in February? :hm: Just messin with you. That corp. front axle looks big sitting under the chassis.Did you decide to go with the 2wd rear axle with posi and weld the perches on that axle?


Yep, the corp 10 has some monster gussets on it doesn't it? Also going with the 2WD with posi that I found in the JY. Need to weld spring perches and shock mounts on. Still easier and cheaper than setting up my old 12 bolt with the posi.... If it doesn't run well then i'll rebuild it....

As for February well, at least I have pics to prove my progress Dustin...:lol:

This thread and your progress pic's make me want to go start working on my truck right now at 2:30 in the morning. GR8 discription and pic explanation in all posts.

Wish my back would let me get some sleep and get some work done :(

Chassis looks awesome Mike, Looks like you should make your goal of getting out of the rented space and back home close to the wife by the end of the month. :metal:

RJ22...:)

I am in the same boat would love to have my frame looking like that but with my back like it is sleep is at odd hours and when i am up half the time i can't bend over to pick a wrench up. Sure dose look nice though.
Ed

So is this where you expected to go with your truck when you got it?
Or did it kinda morph on ya? :lol: (like they always do)