hey guys,

i was looking at summits site for front and mid motor mount plates for my sbc. i see they come in steel and aluminum. i would think the steel would be best for the mid plate cause of fitment issues with the tranny but not sure what will work the best. what do you guys use. both aluminum or both steel or do you mix and match. also do you bolt them directly to the frame.
again your help is definatly appreciated.

I run an aluminum front plate and a steel mid plate. If you run motor plates you should run lateral engine limiters. Motor plates do a great job keeping the engine from torquing around...but dosent do much to stop the front and back movement. Here is how I did my limiters Click pic to enlarge
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/5/12019554923.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5366122)

I also run aluminum front and steel mid plate. I have limiters also. Mine go straight forward to a tubular crossmember.

I run an aluminum front plate and a steel mid plate. If you run motor plates you should run lateral engine limiters. Motor plates do a great job keeping the engine from torquing around...but dosent do much to stop the front and back movement. Here is how I did my limiters Click pic to enlarge
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/5/12019554923.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5366122)

You mean you don't have that firing order memorized? You have to put it on your firewall...lol J/K :mm:

I've experimented with cams with different firing orders in the recent past and always write down the current firing order. That and too many drugs in the 70's...lol

Hahaha.....

I had a 7-4 swap camshaft in a small block 440 I once had. I really do think them swap camshafts are worth it!

i had to find this old post cause i am buying my plates for fitmet. instead of runing a front aluminum plate and lateral limeters do you think this would work as good. you guys have any ideas on how much your crossmember and limiters weigh... it looks like it would be easy to install and cheaper... anyways thanks for help guys...

I agree with aluminum front plate, steel mid plate which is obviously a lot thinner than the front aluminum, and the lateral limiter bar. I will also say, don't put a solid tranny mount (the rear one) in yours if you don't have the cage to stiffen it up or you will break your bellhousing.

Tom

He has a full cage Tom so he should be ok.

front aluminum and steel mid motor plates on there way then. thanks guys

Even with a full cage I've seen more than just a few broken bell housings when using solid engine mounts (like motor plates) and solid trans mounts. There is LOTS more rigidity in the Ultra bell and SFI cases, but I really don't see any reason to risk the trans with a solid mount. A good poly mount properly positioned will support the tail shaft just fine. And really,,, what else does the trans mount need to do (especially with motor plates)

Motor plates make things a PITA, be aware. You'll be doing a LOT of trimming to get everything together. And while your ordering things, Slummit sells water pump gaskets in bulk (packages of 10) Might save yourself some headache and order a bag full right now. LOL Best I've found to positively seal the water pump is Felpro Gaskets and a smear of the "right stuff" on both sides, of both gaskets, a smear on the block, the water pump, the bolts (oh, you'll need longer water pump bolts) The thin steel plate doesn' present a lot pf problem as far as as bolt length,, jut heting headers to clear all the crap your gpoing to put in there, trans cooler lines,,, But all that's AFTER you fab front and rear mount tabs for the motor plates. A word of advice,,, Chassis works, Comp engineering, lots of places sell 'chassis tabs that offer the self locking bolt and weld on tabs to bolt your motor/mid plate to,, WELl worth the few $'s they cost.
See I told you it's a PITA.

thanks marv d.


for the good advice. i was planing on it being a pain. just about everything on my truck has been. but i guess thats what i get for trying to do it all myself. i bet i pulled the hacked up factory steering column out 20 times to get it just right. lol anyways if things get to bad i just quit for a while. its finally getting were i can see daylight behind this project so its getting to be alot more fun even though it hasnt seen the strip yet.. anyways thanks for the tips it sure does make things easier.

thanks marv d.


...... I was plannins on it being a pain. just about everything on my truck has been. ...........I can see daylight behind this project so its getting to be alot more fun even though it hasnt seen the strip yet.. anyways thanks for the tips it sure does make things easier.

I have been following this thread (and many others) with interest .... I am also going to use a FRONT & REAR motor plate.

As many of you already know my C10 is being built to use ir "Nostaglia Drag racing" and that my plans include some "old school" - "way-back-when" mods. One of which includes an "engine setback" so using "engine plates" seems the way to go.

I too feel as I'll NEVER get this project "down the strip" or at the point that I am at that I'll never even get any major work done.

In the next few weeks I am planning to get the cab & bed off and have the frame checked & mods started (back-half & altered wheelbase)..... so I can definately quote 57 sailplane said "anyways thanks for the tips it sure does make things easier"

Maybe we discussed this, but.. setting the engine back brings a bunch of headaches it's self. If you remove more than 2 sq feet of floor or have a altered firewall,, you are required by the regs to have a roll CAGE, not just a bar. If your required to have a roll CAGE, your required to have a SFI window net, a trans shield and flexplate shield (or sfi trans case) Can't you just see the $'s melting away!!! I can't make any greater suggestion than before you start modifying a vehicle for the track, get a current NHRA rule book and get REAL familiar with it. Also never hurts to take the unfinished project to the track just to run it through tech and get a blessing on the progress. A "Ut-Oh" now and correction can save huge $'s if you were to continue to build on a mistake. (been there done that)

I've heard many guys say "well my track doesn't enforce NHRA rules" Don't depend on that lasting forever. As these tragedys happen and track liability insurance skyrockets, they WILL force the outlaw tracks to adopt NHRA rules. The lawyers ALWAYS win. And besides,, safety rules were only written because someone DID get hurt by not having the equipment the rule requires. Sometimes we feel like the rule was written just to line the pocket of SFI parts manufacturers, but the truth ne known,,,, ALL safety rules are written because someone got hurt. Plain and simple fact. Building a car/truck to NHRA spec may present more cost and more headaches, but in the end, the thing will be worth more money than if it isn't capable of passing tech.

Maybe we discussed this, but.. setting the engine back brings a bunch of headaches it's self. If you remove more than 2 sq feet of floor or have a altered firewall,, you are required by the regs to have a roll CAGE, not just a bar. If your required to have a roll CAGE, your required to have a SFI window net, a trans shield and flexplate shield (or sfi trans case) Can't you just see the $'s melting away!!! I can't make any greater suggestion than before you start modifying a vehicle for the track, get a current NHRA rule book and get REAL familiar with it. Also never hurts to take the unfinished project to the track just to run it through tech and get a blessing on the progress. A "Ut-Oh" now and correction can save huge $'s if you were to continue to build on a mistake. (been there done that)

I've heard many guys say "well my track doesn't enforce NHRA rules" Don't depend on that lasting forever. As these tragedys happen and track liability insurance skyrockets, they WILL force the outlaw tracks to adopt NHRA rules. The lawyers ALWAYS win. And besides,, safety rules were only written because someone DID get hurt by not having the equipment the rule requires. Sometimes we feel like the rule was written just to line the pocket of SFI parts manufacturers, but the truth ne known,,,, ALL safety rules are written because someone got hurt. Plain and simple fact. Building a car/truck to NHRA spec may present more cost and more headaches, but in the end, the thing will be worth more money than if it isn't capable of passing tech.

THANKS ..... Yes Marv....we have discussed "some" of this stuff before.... since then I DID get both an NHRA & IHRA rule book in addition to the Pennsylvania Department of Transportation book on antique, classic, street rod & reconstructed vehicle requirements.

Being my C10 will NOT be used as a "competitive" NHRA or IHRA drag racing vehicle does NOTmean I am going to IGNORE "current" rules & regs concerning modified vehicles like the one I am planning to build.

Being a LOT (if not most) of the driving force behind this build has to do with having a gasser/altered looking nostalgia racing vehicle.... capable of occasion "street use" I have ALWAYS planned on having a FULL roll cage, window net, trans/flexplate shield anyway not because of any rules or regs.... but because of SAFETY & wanting to have this vehicle have all the RACE-Stuff.

Even though I have been told that by "only" racing brackets and/or nostalgia events that I would NOThave to totally follow every last NHRA & IHRA rule & reg I have every intention of building a "unique" vehicle that will be capableof passing an NHRA or IHRA tech inspection.

I know some of the things incorporated in this build maybe "raising" the eyebrows of some "hardcore racers" who may not understand why I am building a vehicle that could run faster with a different induction/carb setup than the cross ram I have ..... hook better and run straighter with a lowered independent suspension than with a "gasser's high in the sky stance" with straight front axle and laddder bar suspension ..... But this is I want to do.

Did anyone ever see a '67 C10 gasser back in the heyday of gasser - altered - A/FX racing???? Possibly or NOT ..... the 67-72 C10's fall into the "tailend" of the gasser's time in drag racing history .... whatever.... it doesn't matter ..... I still wish I could afford to build a Willys, Anglia or '55 gasser .... but I can't .... even if I could I still think the C10 would make a great looking gasser-look race car.... a unique hybrid no doubt!!!