View Full Version : Here's the paint plan
IvelDesigns 05-15-2008, 05:28 PM does this make sense?
I've sanded the whole truck in 120 grit. the clip is bare metal, everything else still has good paint on it.
I plan to etch prime the clip using 2 coats of dpx170 and let it dry for 60 minutes.
then we will high build prime using extreme 5468 mixed 4:1. we'll do 2 coats of that and let dry. from there we'll block it using 600 grit.
then 1-2 coats of sealer using the extreme 5468 mixed 4:1:1. That will sit over night.
the following morning we'll be spraying PPG Monza Red. I'm guessing we'll get 3-4 coats of that.
when the paint is ready, we'll cover in clear. I'm not sure of the brand (don't have it in my hands yet), but it's what the paint shop suggested.
the only concern i have is the sanding i've done. Is it ok to use high build over a surface that has been sanded using 120 grit? My dad (who used to paint 20+ years ago) says i need to go over the whole truck with 300 or higher before we start priming.
cstm68 05-15-2008, 05:53 PM does this make sense?
I've sanded the whole truck in 120 grit. the clip is bare metal, everything else still has good paint on it.
I plan to etch prime the clip using 2 coats of dpx170 and let it dry for 60 minutes.
then we will high build prime using extreme 5468 mixed 4:1. we'll do 2 coats of that and let dry. from there we'll block it using 600 grit.
then 1-2 coats of sealer using the extreme 5468 mixed 4:1:1. That will sit over night.
the following morning we'll be spraying PPG Monza Red. I'm guessing we'll get 3-4 coats of that.
when the paint is ready, we'll cover in clear. I'm not sure of the brand (don't have it in my hands yet), but it's what the paint shop suggested.
the only concern i have is the sanding i've done. Is it ok to use high build over a surface that has been sanded using 120 grit? My dad (who used to paint 20+ years ago) says i need to go over the whole truck with 300 or higher before we start priming.
with 120 you might see a lot of scratches, i used 320 for all my sanding between primer and for the final bloking before paint.
IvelDesigns 05-15-2008, 06:52 PM Do you use high build primer? I was under the impression that if you're using high build primer that you should use somewhere around 120 to get a good mechanical bond.
I do plan to use 300 or better to block prior to paint
HuggerCST 05-15-2008, 07:51 PM I don't think you'll have a problem using 120 with today's high build primers. I've covered 80 grit scratches with 2-3 coats of high build, but definately use 320 or finer for your final sanding, before shooting the sealer. The only question that I have with your plan is letting the sealer sit overnight, but I haven't used PPG in years, so I'm not familiar with it. Also, for a super straight finish, you might want to block with 180 on a long block after shooting the high build, then shoot it again with high build, then use your 600 for the final sanding. It adds some time and expense, but really helps get the body work straight, without waves.
vintagesteel 05-15-2008, 09:22 PM your getting a chemical bond with the etch.I might go with 180. Shoot 3 coats of high build because your going to sand most of it off blocking. LET IT SIT for a few days so it does all its shinking its going to do. No need in rushing things. The more primer you have on the less likely you are to go through when blocking. YOU WILL GO THROUGH in places. not that big of a deal. hit those spots with etch again and if the truck is straight, seal and paint. if not reprime and sand again. Do not let the sealer set all night. If you read the tech sheet it will tell you the "window". most sealers are @12 hours. if you let it set longer than that, then you have to scuff and shoot another coat of sealer. So you waisted sealing it in the first place. If you don't scuff your paint WILL delaminate. The clear your paint shop SHOULD have recommended should be PPG to go with the PPG base coat. If you use a different brand of clear there is NO way to waranty the paint job if something happens and paint starts peeling off or any other paint problems. If they "recommend" miss matched products, do you trust them to be there for you when you need them?!
mercman1951 05-23-2008, 05:29 AM Sand with 120-150, then seal. Then use high-build primer before it cures (usually within 24 hours). Block it dry with 150 + a guide coat, (slap your sanding block with a paint stick to keep it clean), fix your low spots, then re-shoot the high build primer again, then re-block with 320 and another guide coat.
If you want to go a step further, re-shoot with high build again, re-guide coat, and wet sand with 600.
Then seal again, and if it's straight enough for you, shoot your color of choice in enamel, or BB/CC. Wet sand the CC with 800-1000 and buff. Done.
It's labor-intensive but it works. I worked in a production shop. Sometimes, I could skip the second stage, and go right from 150 dry to 320 dry, seal and shoot, but that was only if it was a minor repair...and you have to know how to sand, which is a whole other topic.;)
PM me if this is confusing...!
vintagesteel 05-23-2008, 05:43 AM Sand with 120-150, then seal.[/U] Then use high-build primer before it cures (usually within 24 hours). Block it dry with 150 + a guide coat, (slap your sanding block with a paint stick to keep it clean), fix your low spots, then re-shoot the high build primer again, then re-block with 320 and another guide coat.
If you want to go a step further, re-shoot with high build again, re-guide coat, and wet sand with 600.
Then seal again, and if it's straight enough for you, shoot your color of choice in enamel, or BB/CC. [U]Wet sand the CC with 800-1000 and buff. Done.
It's labor-intensive but it works. I worked in a production shop. Sometimes, I could skip the second stage, and go right from 150 dry to 320 dry, seal and shoot, but that was only if it was a minor repair...and you have to know how to sand, which is a whole other topic.;)
PM me if this is confusing...!
seal with what?You dont use sealer before you prime! You don't wet sand and polish 800-1000 grit.
Old Chevy Mech 05-23-2008, 10:26 PM I've always used XIM Flashbond 400 and then Dupong Centari Acrylic Enamel. Beautiful, no peeling and tough. Great for a daily driver. However I know you all have much sweeter machines then I! I dont have the patience for all that sanding! LOL
Frank
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