Did a search and cannot find what I should use seal the gutter and roof seams on the cab I am working on. Any suggestions?

What I have seen used is the "3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer 08531"

Should take 1.5 tubes to do the entire gutter - go back over it with a rubber glove and some lacquer thinner to smooth it out...

Goes for about $9 a tube.

OK. Thanks for the info.

I just used this one:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=E824&Category_Code=JASS

It is a two part urethane that self levels. This one can be used in a regular caulking gun. One tube was plenty for my drip rail. Once you pump it in it settles into the gutter for a very flat finish. The two part urethanes are much more durable that the single part 3M noted above.

Regards,
Steve Lorio
New Orleans

I just used this one:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=E824&Category_Code=JASS

It is a two part urethane that self levels. This one can be used in a regular caulking gun. One tube was plenty for my drip rail. Once you pump it in it settles into the gutter for a very flat finish. The two part urethanes are much more durable that the single part 3M noted above.

Regards,
Steve Lorio
New Orleans

How well did this product work on the vertical part of the drip rail? Tks

I didn't have any vertical to seal. However, it wouldn't work there since it self levels. You need to buy the one with more body if you plan to do verticals. The same manufacturer has versions with more body for vertical seams.
Regards,
Steve
New Orleans

Thanks Steve,

I can't type this fast enough.... DO NOT USE DRIP-CHEK on your horizontal surfaces!!!(or any of them in my opinion) I went through 2 tubes of Drip Chek and tried my damndest to make it look good. It will not harden, it is not sandable, it does not bond to the metal at all if there is the slightest air bubble underneath it(and you will have 100's), it shrinks as it cures and pulls away from the metal it was bonded to the night before when you "finished" it. It sticks to everything that you use to try and smooth it(even the laquer thinned glove trick) and should only be used on non visible surfaces where two pieces of metal are being sandwiched together(in my opinion). I almost forgot, it also comes in a 1960's style aluminum tube that will break open after a while letting teh sealer go all over your hands as you try and press it out of the tube. I had a guy at the body shop supply store recommend this to me and it was a nightmare that eventually led me to ripping out everything over the next 2 days and using self leveling 8307 recommended on the internet. For $45 in 8307 and a epoxy gun rental(free!), in about 30minutes I had flawless results from one tube of it...

For the vertical areas I let it run down and by the time it hit the bottom it had almost cured. I did this a few times then sanded it all flat - looks great.

We use 3M Automix self leveling sam sealer for the horizontal areas, and heavy body seam sealer for the vertical. Definitely not cheap if you are only doing one truck as the automix gun is about $40 and each automix tube is around $45 each. But it gives the best results and works great

beatcoaster and musclerodz thanks for the info!!! Craig

No problem man, anything to keep people from going through the same nightmare I did!