Without some extra work.
You really have to check clearances, when you are first installing wheels or any other after market parts. Here are some pics of problem areas.
First the wheels on the front would not go on all the way. They looked OK, but I could feel them going on the hub hard. When I checked there was a gap between the wheel and brake rotor. Smaller grease cups didn't cure it.
The inside of the wheel was too tight to go over the hubs in two areas...sanding drums on die grinder opened the wheels up enough to go on until the end of the rotor by the grease cup hit the wheel cap...I could either use spacers on the cap (that looked goofy) or grind the ends of the rotor hubs...grind away.
When they would finally go on easy and the caps cleared...I realized the valve stems hit the rotors. I guess that will call for breaking down the tires and installing some kind of angled stems???
Those open spoke areas sure show all of the rust & dirt behind the wheels, so I guess I am going to have to do some clean up & paint.
Next comes the fit on the rear wheels...

It takes a lot of tools to put a Coy wheel on the first time...

Wow...and I've always liked Coy C5's (?) and have thought of getting a pair.
What size wheels are those?

damn that sucks!!.. good luck.

Wow...and I've always liked Coy C5's (?) and have thought of getting a pair.
What size wheels are those?

:agree: we need wheel/tire specs on these C5's. Gringoloco has a set on his Blazer, but I don't recall him having this much trouble...

PICKMUP,

Have you called them and discussed the issues? I would like to install a set, but prefer not to have to deal with issues like that. Maybe it's something they can easily fix. I had a friend that installed a set on an 86 SWB and he had know issues. Is that year of rotors that much different?

I only had to deal with one of those issues with my 20/22 combo; the hub cap beveling. The valve stems they sent me were the "flush" style that would probably work for you too. As long as the removable stem doesn't hit the rotor when you need to air it up.

Actually, these types of problems are very common when installing non-OEM parts. These wheels (17x8 w/4" BS) were probably designed to fit cars---more common. I got them used and they were said to be on an Impala? The clearances on the hubs to inside of wheels were close, but a little too tight to go on.
The rotors sticking out and hitting the caps may be from replacement rotors not being exact. After 40 years, who knows.
I put American 200S "Coke Bottles" on the front of my 2wd Blazer and the caps hit the grease cups. I ended up putting a bead of silicone between the wheel & hub on the inside to keep dirt out and run them without dust caps. That sounds scary, but it is all sealed up in there, so it works fine.
My point is, check everything you install carefully. 50% of it won't fit without help and 25% of it will just be wrong.
I wish I had $1 for every time I send pics & info to manufacturers on problems and get back the classic answer, "Well, no one else has ever complained...and we sell a lot of them".

I bought some 17x8 Edelbrock 454 wheels and hit similar problems. They had tri-bar spinners that actually screwed onto the push-in center cap. The center cap wouldn't fit over the hub, just like the coy's. I also had a problem of the lug recesses on the face of the wheel. The only thing I can figure is the 5x5 cars must have smaller lugs, because there was no way I could fit a lug nut in the recess.

I wound up going with 17x8 American Racing Torq-thrust Originals. They bolted right up without any problems.

That's what I had to do with my front wheels too.

I had to run knock offs instead of the standard caps to clear the hubs on my Billet Cruzers. 71see10 had to grind his rotors like you did to get his Centerlines to fit.

I bought some 17x8 Edelbrock 454 wheels and hit similar problems. They had tri-bar spinners that actually screwed onto the push-in center cap. The center cap wouldn't fit over the hub, just like the coy's. I also had a problem of the lug recesses on the face of the wheel. The only thing I can figure is the 5x5 cars must have smaller lugs, because there was no way I could fit a lug nut in the recess.

I wound up going with 17x8 American Racing Torq-thrust Originals. They bolted right up without any problems.

They do. The cars have 7/16" studs and the trucks have 1/2" after '71.

I wound up going with 17x8 American Racing Torq-thrust Originals. They bolted right up without any problems.
They look pretty to me... I might even get some for my 65... :uhmk:

had the same problem on my 69, this is waht I did. I can send out the cad file so you can get some made.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=288030

Without some extra work.
You really have to check clearances, when you are first installing wheels or any other after market parts. Here are some pics of problem areas.
First the wheels on the front would not go on all the way. They looked OK, but I could feel them going on the hub hard. When I checked there was a gap between the wheel and brake rotor. Smaller grease cups didn't cure it.
The inside of the wheel was too tight to go over the hubs in two areas...sanding drums on die grinder opened the wheels up enough to go on until the end of the rotor by the grease cup hit the wheel cap...I could either use spacers on the cap (that looked goofy) or grind the ends of the rotor hubs...grind away.
When they would finally go on easy and the caps cleared...I realized the valve stems hit the rotors. I guess that will call for breaking down the tires and installing some kind of angled stems???
Those open spoke areas sure show all of the rust & dirt behind the wheels, so I guess I am going to have to do some clean up & paint.
Next comes the fit on the rear wheels...

Here's how TT2s fit on 72up rotors

I had the TT2's before the Coys and had no issues with the TT2's on my 69.
Just a difference with the wheel mfg's I guess

I wouldn't want to purchase "NEW WHEELS" n have to alter them to fit!
The procedure should be ...1.slep'em on 2.ride FLY!

that is why Coys are cheaper then the rest.you have to fit a generic size rim to a specific size vehicle and it takes some grinding . i have a set of centerline smoothies ,like a lot of you out there and on the front rotor they have the same issue with our trucks. only because they are set up for a newer 5 lug rotor.i think coys needs to take a look at the design of that wheel and possible make some adjustments.:ito:

that is why Coys are cheaper then the rest.you have to fit a generic size rim to a specific size vehicle and it takes some grinding . i have a set of centerline smoothies ,like a lot of you out there and on the front rotor they have the same issue with our trucks. only because they are set up for a newer 5 lug rotor.i think coys needs to take a look at the design of that wheel and possible make some adjustments.:ito:

:gi::agree: They becoming real popular! i just saw an OLD TRADER magazine with a 40's truck with some chrome COY's n it was nice but...:drama:

had the same problem on my 69, this is waht I did. I can send out the cad file so you can get some made.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=288030

Thanks again for that file Dewayne!! I had terrellautosports from here cut me a set of spacers,and they should be here really soon!. Thanks Tim!!! You rock!

That should solve the fitment issue, but now I have to go to work on the substandard (in my eyes) polishing job. I won'y have to bother with using soft towels as the wheels came equipped with fine scratches right from Coy's.

The valve stems hitting the caliper will not be an issue either. On my Coy's,you unscrew a cap and screw in an adaptor to air up the tire. When you're done, you screw the cap back in. Pretty cool!

I had to grind down my rotors for my coys to fit on the front of my Blazer.

I must say they look just as good as the TTII's

I had the same problem.

Requested a copy of the file for the spacers.

Damn COYS!!!! I'd spend the money on a better set of wheels next time.

Just got my new bonspeeds 22's and my 72 2wd blazer wont let me get the cap on anyways so it seems we are all dealing with the same crap!

When I installed my Boyd'sI had to do a little grinding on the front set also

running 20x10 in rear with 295/40's front 20x8.5 with 255/40's
had to grind the rotors in the front, with 12" rotors valve stem still has plenty of roon, would like to get fluch mount but not a big deal now. the rears are 5 1/2 backspacing on a 69 rear axle, had to get 1" spacers to fit just right. would like to get a 71/72 axle and check fitment because of the width. they were rubbing my rear wheel wells before i spaced them out so I think 5" BS would be ok. i will have to measure the fronts again but believe they are 5 1/4 BS and fit good.just my $.02.

how do the fronts fit with some of the aftermarket disc conversions?