Hey all. I'd like to introduce you to Betty.

She's not much to look at right now, but she should clean up pretty nice.

I picked her up for $500 off of a Craigslist ad about 30 miles north of her. She's a typical Wisconsin car, with all the Wisconsin problems - namely, rust.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/II1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/II2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/II4.jpg

Complete with a 194 cid 6 cylinder, and three on the tree. A whopping 40,xxx miles. Hubcaps. Am radio. Stock interior. And rust, lots of rust.

Plans are very much like my truck - fix it, drive it, break it, and repeat. I need to fix the rust, the rear frame rails, floor pans...etc. Typical body work. And then comes the engine.

It'll be a 250, bored .030 over, with 307 pistons. The head is going to get bigger valves, the bolt boss removed and possibly lump ports. An Offenhauser triple single 3x1 intake with Monojets will find it's way onto the engine, along with a set of headers. While it's a part, it'll get a bigger cam, somewhere about .500-inches of lift at 260-280 duration.

Exhaust will probably be glass or steel packs, or maybe 2-chamber mufflers. I'm undecided, as I want the sixy sound, but nothing too high pitched, resembling a sewing machine.

The three speed will be used for now, and I'm contemplating between keeping the stock column shift, or switching to an aftermarket Hurst shifter. Depending on what gear ratio it has, those could be changed for better bottom end, but we'll see.

The rear end will get some steeper gears when funds allows, possibly in the 3.5-3.7 range. As far as stance, I'm looking at 14's in the front, 15's in the back, with as wide of tire as I can fit into the meager wheel well, while keeping the stock caps.

Aside from that, I'm thinking a red paint job is in it's future, possibly IH Red, as it should go well with the stock fawn colored interior, which is in too good of condition for me to worry about recovering the seats.

All in all, a clean semi-daily driver thats different, has character, and won't be too much of a slouch. Oh, and won't cost me an arm and a leg to do. Being in college has it's limits. If the car were a person, I'd like to think she'd be the nerdy yet cute girl in class. The one where you're like, "Hmm...if she just took those glasses off, and didn't braid her hair..." kinda deals. Yeah, you know the ones. And then they turn out to be a real hell-raiser after a few drinks. Thats exactley what I'm going for.

So, Once I got her home, I started to tear 'er apart.

Got the interior stripped.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8946.jpg

Got the engine and tranny out.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8941.jpg

and the front stub unbolted and rolled out, after removing the front clip, to get it ready for dismanteling and repairs.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8945.jpg

The seat, and random trim and cardboard behind the back seat.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8893.jpg

The pattern isn't the greatest, nor the color. It's from a base sedan, Model 100, for cryin' out loud, what do I expect? But it's growing on me - and it should add to the "Charming plain jane" feel I'm going for.

The new heart, pre-rebuild. Pulled it out of a '68 C20 out back, originally came out of a Chevy van, I think? My dad did the swap, and thats what he said. So we'll go with it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8844.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8846.jpg

And the 1967 Wisconsin Inspection Sticker, in the windsheild. That's definitely staying.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8801.jpg

I spent the past couple of days working on making a dolly of sorts for the front end of the shell.

I made slotted plates that bolt onto the front stub mount, and welded them to piece of pipe, with angle iron chunks welded to the pipe to provide a flat on flat surface for the weld.

Then, I bent a piece of pipe, hapzardly and half assed, to make a yoke for a wheel I found out back. I then welded a stub of pipe onto that, which fit into a piece of pipe I welded onto the crossbar.

The camera's batteries died when I took this, so, bear with the poor quality. I'll bolt it on this weekend, and see if it works.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8947.jpg

It's just a way I'll be able to move the shell, while the front end is unbolted. Plus, it should allow for some pretty tight cornering in the garage, thanks to the swivel mounted wheel. After it's repositioned, it'll be put back on jackstands, safe and sound.

And thats about where she stands for now. As I make a few more dollars and get further into it, progress will come at a more steady rate. But until then, I'm doing what I can that's free and cheap, and doing the best with what I have on hand.

Let's hear it!

-Sam.

Love that body style. Looks like it will keep you busy for a while. Keep it up!

Thanks Mike!

Yeah, she'll keep me quite busy...for quite a while...I hope to get cranking on it as it warms up.

I'm going to address the rear end first, since the trunk pan is shot. Then I can get the car to sit level, go to the floor pans, and then quarter repair. Easier said than done.

I'll keep you all updated, ;)

-Sam.

have fun I put Competition Engineering Rear Frame Rails on mine
work a lot beter than the old stuf. i have some more stuff left to.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Competition+Engineering/749702/10002/-1

wow thats a whole floor replacement. lots more work than what i had to do on my 63. i'll be looking forward to watching your buildup.

JDL, thanks for the link on the frame rails. It'd be nice to have an aftermarket front and rear in it, but right now, it's just not in the works I fear. Though I'm always willing to take extra parts off peoples hands...haha.

Jvsapp - yeah, there really isn't much of a floor left. But, after looking it over, it shouldn't be anymore difficult than floor pan, rockers and cab corners on a pickup. Atleast, I hope...haha.

I'm going to be making an arch to lift the back of the car to address the trunk rust, and get the leaf springs from poking through the pan. I'll be sure to take pictures and show you all what I'm working with here...lol.

I'll keep you posted.

-Sam.

this would make it easier, but you would still need to make the toe boards
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/62-63-64-65-1966-1967-Chevy-II-Nova-Full-Floor-Pan-A-T_W0QQitemZ390011542137QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item390011542137&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Jvsapp - Thanks for the link. A full floor pan would make my life alot easier. I'm considering a 2 half one, tho, since it's almost 200 dollars cheaper, if my price checking is up to par. We'll see how the dollars fall in the future though, ;)

And just a quick update - I made my rear end lift today, and got the back end cranked up.

The rear frame rails are in better shape than I thought. Only the very ends are gone, and the rest seem to be good and solid. Further inspection will verify this - if so, it'll reudce how much I have to do considerably, haha.

Also pulled the gas tank and the trunk lid, along with the read bumper.

Pretty soon I'll have to start whacking and welding I suppose...

Also, I confered with Brad on the board, and in an effort not to steal the legacy of his truck, "Six Appeal", I'd like to give this car, along with her name of Betty, the title of "Six Appeal II". Pinstriping and lettering may come further down the road to appropriately display this title. ;)

Thats it for now, I'll get some pics up soon.

-Sam.

So, Once I got her home, I started to tear 'er apart.



I think the 'ole sodium chloride gods already did that for you... that's road salt to you southern members!

Haha, no kidding Mike. It sure did a number on this ol' gal. Everytime I slam the door or bang a panel, more rust comes off.

Kind of disheartening..but just think about how light it is!

It's just metal....I gotta keep telling myself that...

-Sam.

I think the 'ole sodium chloride gods already did that for you... that's road salt to you southern members!

Road salt? never heard of it. we have ocean salt, and salt spray here. it's a constant battle. you could just finish grinding a piece of metal. take a lunch break and it starts surface rusting already out here.

I love the 67's...I had a 64 hardtop.....Can't wait to see you get it back together.....:metal:

Road salt? never heard of it. we have ocean salt, and salt spray here. it's a constant battle. you could just finish grinding a piece of metal. take a lunch break and it starts surface rusting already out here.

been there before. i used to live on South Padre Island Texas. got tired of replacing the chrome on my '76 shovelhead, so i went to billet. then i spent all of my time polishing, LOL. from one extreme to the other.........:smoke:

Yeah,salt (or sodium chloride) in the air is hard to hide from.But,I always dug the faded beach bum vehicle look.Talk about oxidization.It sucks for shiney,though.

I really like your lil`hundred.That`s cool you`re running a 250 in it.Dual pipes hum a sweet tune.
A friend in Florida has a mint green one with a 426 stroker small block.It`s a street sleeper with rallyes/caps and no rings.He showed me a video they shot on the street(a launch coming at the camera for a block).Those cars are cool!They are Baby Biscaynes.:cool:

Thanks for the comments all.

Special K - Baby Biscayne is the perfect way to describe it. Poverty with a purpose, haha. 426 incher? Cripes, that baby must scoot!

Just an update, since I've been slacking as of late. Warm weather is here, and so is progress.

First, some pics of the lift frame I threw together.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8950.jpg

It's just 2 inch well pipe for uprights, with 1 1/4" across the top. Plates welded to the 2 inch for mounts to 2x4's, and braces where the cross bar meets the uprights. It sure isn't pretty, but it got the rear up, and let me work on it some more.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8949.jpg

A come-along, as well as a chain and chain tightener provided plenty of lift.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8948.jpg

And got the rear end out, after fighting with the bolts and bushings. Sadly, the springs are totally shot, with chunks missing on the eyes for mounting. Par for the course, I s'pose.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8951.jpg

And the rust in the trunk. Yeah, not looking too good, is it? Haha.

I figure then worst that can happen is that I fail miserably, spend countless hours and dollars on this rust bucket, only to be disappointed. So, on the bright side, it's only metal, and it can be fixed.

Anyone remember my truck when I first brought it home? Lol, yeah. She was in rough shape too. And, all thigns considered, she turned out pretty alright. So, I'm not too worried.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8955.jpg

...and just because I love that rear fender curve. ;)

And time for suggestions. Any body have ideas for paint color? White is really growing on me. Originality means little to me, so, take that into consideration, lol.

And a new future plan has popped up, which could possibly happen - I'll run the built 250 for a few years, until the engine in my truck pukes. When that happens, the 250 will go into the truck, and the 307 will be turned into a Mad Mouse - getting bored and stroked, etc. Just an idea that ran through my head, haha. Using what I got...and all that nonsense.

That's where she stands for the night though, so, let's hear it.

-Sam.

How about that steering wheel?It`s just like a`67 truck.Is it a smaller diameter?One of those would be cool in a truck.I`m sure the horn button is interchangable,too.

I'll measure the diameter, along with the one in my '69 - assuming that '69 and '67 truck wheels are the same.

It's the same 3 spoke design, I know. And I considered putting the '67 chrome cap on the horn button to be different, and spice it up a bit.

I'll be back with the measurements asap.

-Sam.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8948.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8955.jpg

...and just because I love that rear fender curve. ;)

And time for suggestions. Any body have ideas for paint color? White is really growing on me. Originality means little to me, so, take that into consideration, lol.

And a new future plan has popped up, which could possibly happen - I'll run the built 250 for a few years, until the engine in my truck pukes. When that happens, the 250 will go into the truck, and the 307 will be turned into a Mad Mouse - getting bored and stroked, etc. Just an idea that ran through my head, haha. Using what I got...and all that nonsense.

That's where she stands for the night though, so, let's hear it.

-Sam.

WOW original Spiral shocks. those bring good money if they were new :D. the sides look pretty straight. maybe some lower quarter patch panels. how's the rust at the bottom of the windshield and rear window? notorious places to rust for those. i bought a parts car from the junkyard and it was pretty rotted on the a pillars and above the trunk lid. your car looks like it's mainly floors and bottom sheetmetal. i don't like how they painted the drip rails though...

also nothing wrong with white...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/kaitaiya/63%204%20door/download.jpg
and a inline 6...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/kaitaiya/63%204%20door/DSCF1765.jpg
these are my car.

Ok, I checked the diameter of the stock Chevy II wheel. It's right at about 16". So, compared to the 17" of a stock truck wheel..it's not much, but enough if someone is looking for smaller wheel and the original look.

Jvsapp - GORGEOUS CAR! Wow. My dad had a '63 or '64 4-door when he was younger. Said he couldn't kill the little 153 it had, haha.

And as far as I can tell, the rust is just along the floor and quarters. I pulled the headliner, and it all seems really solid, around the windsheild and rear window. I know on the outside, on the back of the C-pillar between the side glass and rear window I have some rust soming through the paint. But it looks like deep pitting at most, or atleast I'm hoping. It'll be addressed, though.

I'm getting pretty excited, because it might look like it's long gone, but it's just metal, as Frizzle Fry states.

The floor pans were spot welded on vertical lips, so that makes it easy. The rockers are still mostly there. And the rear quarters look pretty simple to fabricate, should I feel daring. Otherwise, it seems like mostly flat and straight forward sheetmetal patches.

Yesterday I got the radiator support off the front clip, after fighting with the rivets of the subframe. That'll need some patching, but nothing I'm not used to. Hopefully this weekend I can get the inner fender structres off, along with the coils and struts.

I'll keep you all posted, because pretty soon we're gonna start whacking and welding. ;)

-Sam.

That little car is screaming "327" chevy II motor.....:metal:

i got a nice 283 i'm prepping to slap into mine. :D

If I had a spare smallblock laying around, you bet she'd get a high winding mouse.

But. I don't. I have a bunch of 6's. So, after doing some math, despite what everyone says, it'll be cheaper for me to build a little 250 for now.

After a few years of that, well, chances are I'll find a smallblock, and build that baby up. Actually, that's what I plan on doing, haha. Maybe not the stroker 307, but definitely somewhere's around 300-350 hp. I dunno, something tells me it'll have more than enough to throw me in the backseat. ;)

But, for now, a 220 hp 250 should have enough snort. I hope. haha.

-Sam.

Don't get me wrong I'm not hatin' on the 250 I have 3 of them....A 327 would be sweet in that car.....:metal:

George -

Don't worry, I totally gotcha. There's something about those 3 little numbers that just click with a '67.

No progress today folks. It cooled off quite a bit, so I spent the day inside. But, I'm officially on Spring Break for a week, so I definitely plan on getting out to the garage and tearing into her some more.

I'll keep you posted.

-Sam.

sam how far are you from monroe? my bro lives out there and he's dealing with the cold too. i was out there almost 2 years ago to help him with his camaro.

here's some inspiration for you :D

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/one-week-wisconsin-124420.html


that's be me taking out the lower control arm bushing.

Jvsapp -

I'm about 3.5-4 hours north of Monroe. And wow, you guys absolutely thrashed on that thing! good job!

I haven't made any progress on the car itself - apathy and uncooperating weather will do that. But I've started on the head for the 250, and just finished getting the valves out and bagged up.

Due to money, or rather, the lack there of, I'm probably going to use the stock sized valves for now. My goal is to have decent performance, but not break the bank in the process - not that there's much of a bank to break. ;)

So, I figure with the higher compression, and reworking the ports, It'll still flow pretty good, and with the smaller valves, have a higher intake velocity for streetability....or atleast thats what I'm telling myself, to reassure it's the right move. haha.

I'll post pics as soon as I can, and hopefully will have some more updates that are more productive.

-Sam.

Jvsapp -

I'm about 3.5-4 hours north of Monroe. And wow, you guys absolutely thrashed on that thing! good job!

I haven't made any progress on the car itself - apathy and uncooperating weather will do that. But I've started on the head for the 250, and just finished getting the valves out and bagged up.

Due to money, or rather, the lack there of, I'm probably going to use the stock sized valves for now. My goal is to have decent performance, but not break the bank in the process - not that there's much of a bank to break. ;)

So, I figure with the higher compression, and reworking the ports, It'll still flow pretty good, and with the smaller valves, have a higher intake velocity for streetability....or atleast thats what I'm telling myself, to reassure it's the right move. haha.

I'll post pics as soon as I can, and hopefully will have some more updates that are more productive.

-Sam.
yeah it was a whirl wind. the weather kind of threw us a loop, and his wife did too once she found out what he spent to get there. the small stuff screws etc were killing us. i think i saw more autozone, checker, farm and fleet, and Ace hardware than anything else. only the last day i was able to see some of the sights out there. but just like you i am in the same boat. small progress without breaking the bank. my nova is on hold while i try to get my daily driver back up and running.

Yeah, the little stuff is always what gets ya. Especially when you realize that you forgot something, and have to go all the way back to town for it...yeahhh...

Southern Wis has some pretty sites - alot of bluffs and hills. We used to drive through the southwestern corner all the time to pick up my sister from college in Iowa. A big change from the lakes and trees of up here, haha.

I'm a firm beleiver in doing as much yourself as you can. It might not be pretty, but if it's safe, and it works, that's all that matters. I guess that's what you get for living on a farm, haha.

Pics should be coming shortly, as soon as I do some more on the head.

-Sam.

As promised, here are some pics of the headwork I'm starting.

The stock valves are small, but, should do the job for now.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCI0034.jpg

And removed the head bolt boss in the intake. Talk about a change! Then again, when 1/3 of the port is taken up by a chunk of metal, you'll have that.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCI0029-1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCI0030-1.jpg

I used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Yeah, real high tech....and I'll take it out to the garage now, and remove some more metal with a carbide cutter on the die grinder to make the top of the port flush, and get ready to install the lump ports.

Then I'll have to drill and tap the top of the head for a pip plug, and drill a counter sink for the new shortened head bolts.

Thats where she stands now - I'm not thrilled with the progress that I'm making, but progress is progress nonetheless.

-Sam.

what did the port look like before you removed the bolt boss?

I didnt take any pics of the before, but I'll see if I can find some.

ANd the best I can do at this point in time is this pic off of the the T6 racing website.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/waterJacketupperLower.jpg

you can see in the left hand picture, the boss where the head bolt opriginally goes, and how much volume it takes up in the port in relation to the valves. It also gives you an idea of how big it was, and how it obstructed the air/fuel charge flow.

I'll keep looking, but that should help.

-Sam.

actually looking back i see it in your engine tear down pics. i was trying to understand how you will be attaching the head once you cut them out. looking at the T6 website, i guess you are using the lump ports? do you have to plug the hole that the bolt would normally reside in?

The head gets attached with a short allen headed bolt at the bottom of the port, with the top hole being tapped for a pipe plug. And yes, I'll be using lump ports. The stock head flows at 177 cfm, while with a lump port, and stock size valves, it gets bumped up tp a little over 200 cfm, I beleive. Add some port work, and it'll flow pretty ok. And it'd be even better with bigger valves. But thats further down the line.

It all looks pretty easy, so, I figure what the heck. The gains are worth the risk at this point in time, in my opinion.

I have a few more tricks I want to play around with, so that'll consume some of my time. I also am sending out money for a set of springs for the rear end. Hopefully they don't take too long to get here, so I can get it mocked up, and the rear frame rails fabbed up and welded it. followed by the trunk pan. That shouldn't be too bad.

After that, I'm hoping funds accumulate, so I can get my engine bored, and start on the floor pans. After that...well. It's all down hill...I hope...;)

-Sam.

that's cool. sounds like you have some experience with it. i'm debating about keeping my 194 in there or stabbing in the 283. we'll see. the springs, you are getting new leafs? mono leaf? where are you getting it from? i have wagon springs under my 4 door

Experience is a relative word...haha. I've been reading about straight 6's for about 6 years now. Following on Inliners.org and reading Santucci's book. I just never had the funds to attempt a project, or the gumption to just start cutting and hope for the best.

I used to talk to Larry Page (Twisted6) quite regularly, listening to all he had to say about his car and the motor he had torn down. Great guy to take the time and chat with a high school kid who is full of questions.

So, If I can lay down 210-230 hp, cripes, I'll be thrilled. It should be a fun little motor. Kind of a misfit, like the car itself - since it's not an SS Coupe or anything, it's also not a smallblock car.

As far as 194 vs 283 - as much as I love 6's, i think a 283 will give you better performance and drivability. My second love is low cube small blocks, so big surprise there. haha.

And yes, Mono leafs. I found them on craigslist for $55. I probably should've went with multi-leafs, but, they're rearched for +1", sand blasted, and painted, and come with bushings. I'm hoping that little bit of extra lift won't look too bad, and allow me to fit a bigger tire under it. So, just gotta get that sent out.

Hopefully today brings some more progress, I'll keep you posted.

-Sam.

Alright, and finally an update. I spent the weekend with a carbide on the diegrinder, and ended up with this.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8966.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8964.jpg

Now I just have to really clean up the ports. There is so much excess flashing and metal from the casting, it's ridiculous. But then again, it was made to be a work horse, not thoroughbred.

And a little side project, since the weather still thinks it's winter out:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8967.jpg
And I don't feel like being in the garage in this weather at the moment, so I'm working on something else...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8968.jpg

Yeah, that lump of clay may turn out to save me 130 bucks. Which, at this point in time, is pretty major for me, haha. I'm going to attempt to make a mold, and cast my own lumps. Will it work? Who knows. But if I try, and it works, great! If I try and it doesn't, I was out nothing but the time to do it.

So thats where it stands at the moment. I'm going to go play with it some more before doing some chem homework and such...meh. Atleast the semester is almost over, and then I have summer for this nonsense, before transfering...

And thats where she stands now. Let's hear it!

-Sam.

looks like you've got your work cut out for you...good luck...have fun... make sure when you finish you post pictures

Well, still no real progress to report - atleast with pics.

We had a freak snow storm earilier this week, so that really put a damper on working in the garage. However, I got my front end sand blasted, at least enough to get all of the loose slaggy rust off it.

Now, I'm working on patching that up, and plating it so that it's strong.

I'm also waiting for my springs to get here, since it would seem that FedEx screwed up something fierce...they were last scanned in Ohio. Yeah. Halfway here from New York...and it's like, c'mon guys. These thigns are 5 feet long..how do you lose them~!??

-ahem-. regain my composure..

But yeah. Progress should start to clip along now. I'm burning metal, and frabricating patches, so, I'm pretty pleased.

I'll post pics as soon as I get some decent ones to show you all.

Stay tuned.

-Sam.

Alright, a long overdue update.

Been working on the front clip, including the inner fender, frame rail, etc. But, for me to do the frame rail, I have to fab my bumper brackets, since I have to weld nuts on the inside of the frame rail for the bracket bolts...etc.

So, I cut the bad part of the bracket off. after bracing it with a piece of old brake line to make sure it held it's shape.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8970.jpg

So, I traced it onto a piece of 1/8th inch steel, and cut it out. I think made it into a C-channel type piece, by welding lengths of steel on the edges, like stock.

Then I lined it up with the side brace, and welded it back on.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8972.jpg

So, since that is done, and just needing a little finish grinding and some black paint or POR 15, now I can get going on the frame rail.

I also got the inner fender patch fabbed up. After cutting out the old rusty piece, and flattening it, I traced it onto some sheet metal. Which happened to be the old hood from my truck that I replaced after it met a tree.

Cut it out, trimmed it up, drilled the holes that are sposed to be there and put the stock strengthening ribs into it with a form and a chunk of iron stock.

Then bent the right angle lip on it, and voila.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8975.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF8973.jpg

It's not perfect, but for maybe an hour or so working on the patch, and experimenting with making the ridges, I'm pretty pleased with it. Now I just have to burn it in, and keep going on front end.

So, that's where it stands. I'll keep going as I have time, but with the end of the semester coming up, I have to get my behind in gear and get going on homework. But, soon, I'll be done for another summer, and can really start cranking on the old girl.

So, that's where she stands now.

Let's hear it!

-Sam.

damn that's some pretty bad rust there. i wish i took a picture of the bumper brackets i have on my 63. they are basically straight from the frame horns all the way to the bumper surface, then a small 90° tab to where the bumper bolt goes.

Haha, yeahh...you should see the pile of rust under the car man. Just from closing the door, dirt and rust just falls out of every nook and cranny. It's kinda disheartening...

But, I guess thats what I get for jumping on a cheap Wisconsin car.

Ah well, it's nothing I'm not used to...;)

I'm hoping to get some more done tomorrow before I head to class. I got the frame rail patch about ready to go in with nuts welded to the back side for the bumper, so that'll get burnt in.

Woulda got it done tonight, but my welding helmet broke. So I spent the last hour of my night fixing the band on that, instead of welding...ah well. It happens, and I'm ready for tomorrow.

I'll keep you all posted.

-Sam.

im all ready impressed..i you started with a car alot of us would hae parted out and turned into a shooting target or cube...
im watching this one good luck!
this should be interesting

Haha, thanks man. I need all the support I can get.

If nothing else, it'll save the car from just rotting out and be sold for scrap. It probably won't be the most glamorous for the time being, but if I can get it back together, solid, with one color on the body and a decent motor under the hood, I'll be thrilled.

Just something I can thrash on, ya know? haha.

I'll have another update coming soon, so be prepared to be amazed! Or apalled...

-Sam.

Well all, it's been a while. So it's about time for an update.

After some delays involving school, social life, and family tragedies, I'm finally getting back to work on the ol' girl.

I was given a different front clip from a guy in Iowa who is switching to aftermarket. So, as soon as I can scrape some money together for gas, I'll make the trip down there with the parental units. It's only like a 6 or 7 hour trip one way, so I'm not too worried about it. Plus it's set up for discs, with new pads, lines...other new brake components..and all I should have to do is replace the motor mounts since he had a big block in it. Incredibley minor compared to the task I was getting ready to undertake. haha.

So, now comes the back end of the car. Since I was essentially bent over by fedex, and they lost the monoleafs I bought, I have to find different springs. Or, I may go a different route, depending on how easily everything fits in there...I'll update more on that little side project as it progresses, haha. ;)

Otherwise, no new pics or anything amazing. Hopefully soon. But, until then, you all know where she stands.

-Sam.

scoring a complete front end is awesome. that'll save you some work. just make sure when you bolt it up you keep all the shims and do the measurements(cross measurements) when lining it back up. make sure it's all square in there.

also HOW the hell can fedex loose a pair of 40lb leaf? i mean. WTF.... maybe the guy you are getting the front end from went with a 4 link rear and still has his?

either way, keep up with the progress. once you get it rolling you'll enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Thats what I said! (about the springs). It's like..really guys? So, somewhere between Rhinelander, Wisconsin, and Grove City, Ohio, there are a pair of monoleafs...pretty dang ridiculous...

And I plan on asking the guy with the front end if he has some rear end bits. If not, I may just say "Eff it", and go with a truck trailing arm rear end. I have all the parts, so, in theory. It'd just be fabrication...Yeah, I'm pipe dreaming. haha.

I'll keep you posted, for sure.

-Sam.

truck trailing arm setup???? man now you talking hotrods to hell setup. that'll handle very nicely. i was giving it some more thought about the front end you are getting. if it had a BBC, the motor mounts are same as SBC. but the inner fenders may have been hacked up for the headers. and if he went with an aftermarket setup(heidts, TCI, etc) possibly he might have taken the core support as those don't come with one and you would need to reuse it.

either way take lots of pics. and keep us posted ;)

Haha, exactley. The HotRods to Hell setup is just like whats under 67-72 chevy pickups, with the exception of being more thought out for the cars they're to be installed in. Oh, and alot more expensive. I figure this way, IF it works (big if...), I'll have a smooth riding suspension, no wheel hop when I hammer the throttle on that six, and just all around good performance.

And he mentioned that the front clip had the rad support removed, since he was going to use it, but went another direction, so it's included as well.

I'll post some pics of a guy on Steves Nova Site that is doing the Poor Man's Truck Arm Suspension, using a '70 C10 for the arms and crossmembers, and the stock frame rails.

This is when things get really interesting...haha.

-Sam.

Is that what a car from Wisconsin normally look like????
I guess i must just be spoiled!!
raised in southern California,and now in Arizona, been building cars and custom bikes since i was 10,, anything with 1/2 that much rust probably went to china to become "the biggest dam in the world"
cal gets around 6" -8"of rain per year
Arizona gets around 4"-5" per year .....most of our cars are "rust free"....I am sooo spoiled!!
I have a great respect for you guys that have to put up with so much to try to keep up your rides !!!!!

Well, I'm sure not ALL cars from Wisconsin are like that, just most of them that I've seen and worked on.

Hell, I thought I was doing pretty good, since only the bottom of the quarters and the pans were rusted out...along with a few other areas.

And it's not so much the rain, but rather the salt on the roads in the winter. I guess we have to remember that these were just everyday cars back then, and were driven. Hopefully it becomes a driver again. At any rate, it's better than it just sitting there, rotting away...

-Sam.

Well all, not much of an update. Been busy getting ready for my cousin's wedding and other stuff.

But yeah, I've been working on the truck suspension. Got the frame cut, hauled up to the garage, trailing arms off, and about to get the crossmembers out.

I've been stitching the trailing arms together - you know how they get, with rust accumulating between the C-channels. So, almost got all of that taken care of, then it's time to sand blast and throw some paint on 'em.

and I almost forgot pics of the suspension i'm basing it off of:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/Crossmemberframe2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSC00414.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSC00431.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/TruckArm20Rotisserie.jpg

It all seems fairly simple, and since I don't really have a floor to get in the way anyway...what the hell. haha.

If it works, it'll be great. I love trailing arms. If it doesn't, I'm not really out anything, except for the time and a little bit of welding. The added weight will be made up for in the smoothness of the ride and the traction, in my opinion. So, yeah.

Now just to decide between a 292 or a 250...but that'll be a while. First I gotta get this thing solid.

I'll keep you all posted.

-Sam.

damn sam that's awesome. i don't think it's added weight. maybe a little. but it'll be well worth it. can't wait till you get your car on a rotisserie too like that one. keep us posted.

Very nice!

lookin good!

Thanks for the compliments guys - I can only hope mine turns out as good as the one in the pics posted.

No real updates as of yet - still getting everything gathered up and patched, getting crossmembers out, and just in general getting everything ready to slap in. Once that's complete, I don't think it'll take all that much to do.

So, yeah. I'll definitely keep you all posted, though it may be a while. I hope not, but, it might be. hah.

-Sam.

Well, finally time for an update. It's been over 2 months, and I have little to show for it.

However, the subframe connectors are in, just have to finish welding them, and the trailing arms are about ready to go in as a unit as soon as I pick up some bolts and U-bolts.

I also made a venture to Iowa, where I picked up a complete front clip subframe. New brake shoes, lines, wheel cylinders..all painted..no rust...gorgeous. The guy, Bob Morgan, gave it to me. He's a stand up guy with a bad ass 66 SS. I'll be sure to post pics of the front clip and his car - it blew my mind.

So, now the real work begins. Taking all of these pieces, putting them together, and hoping everything is square and turns out right.

I'll be sure to update more - with summer over, school starting, I'll have more time. Sounds counter productive, but farming is slowing, so, more free time for me. haha.

Until next time..

-Sam.

hey sam, sounds like you got a good plan there. is it a stock front? or aftermarket? i scored a set of disc brakes for mine, and a 10 bolt 3:42 posi rearend. i also got my classic industries catalog friday for chevy truck. in it i saw a set of tubular rear arms that will fit that cross member you have. i thought that would be sick. i'll see if i can find a link to it. i think CCP makes them.

also i'll be updating my pics too if i get some time today.... i've been busy too.

keep us posted.

It's just a stock front clip, which has it's limitations, but it's better than what I was working with, haha. Still drums, but, I figure my truck stops with drums on all 4 corners, whats to saying this light of car won't either?

Got some work done lately. Finishing up the sub frame connectors, and got my crossmember for the trailing arms cut down. Now to start sand blasting and get some paint slapped on some of these suspension components, I'm thinking.

And I've seen those tubular arms man, they'd be sweet. However, expensive if I remember right. Maybe someday...

And as promised, pics!

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/1/10/69/2495110690102723277qVbzzd_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2495110690102723277qVbzzd)

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/73/173/3/23/32/2436323320102723277uRNevA_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2436323320102723277uRNevA)

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/74/174/8/5/10/2847805100102723277xtPUZK_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2847805100102723277xtPUZK)

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/73/173/4/25/23/2200425230102723277YdTebX_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2200425230102723277YdTebX)

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/4/81/33/2781481330102723277qqDbAk_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2781481330102723277qqDbAk)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/stub3.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/stub2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/stub.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/radsupport.jpg

And there we go.

-Sam.

hey looks like you have been enjoying come inspiration fuel..
this car is going to be one sexy girl when done!

damn sam. that looks like it was a fender exit header setup on the stock front. also limiting straps musta been the strip setup before he got really serious. good score though. with extended studs and all.


BTW with the tubular arms... i just noticed that they are on this page's advertisements(saw it on the top of the reply link here)
6072TTA 1960-72 - tubular trailing arms, pair $599.00

Yup, the guy who owned it before Bob, the guy I got it from, had a 14:1 big block with like 950 hp bolted into the 67 SS pictured above. Apparently he pulled the wheels. Alot. haha.

Then Bob got a hold of it, and cleaned it up to what it is today.

And thats not too incredibly bad for the arms, all things considered. Too bad I just finished plating and beading my up...hah. If I ever do it again, I'll be new parts throughout. :P.

And the pics of the front clip are what Bob sent me before I went down there. My choice of inspiration fuel is much more local...if you will...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/hamms.jpg

Yeahhh...haha.

Time to get back to the garage, I'll have more updates later.

-Sam.

Alright, finally got ambitious and decided to upload the pics I've been taking. The progress is minimal, but it's progress nonetheless. I was also hesitant to post progress pics, since I'm thinking about doing a write up about the truck arm suspension for a magazine in an effort to advance my writing career. But what the hell.

Just a warning though - I'm by no means a professional, and I'm using what I have on hand, or what I can obtain from friends and family for little or nothing. In that regard, it's kind of an old school take on a not-so old school car, if you will. So, here goes..

Subframe connectors.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9032.jpg

Installed.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9034.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9039.jpg

In hindsight, I should've stepped the material size fromthe front subframe to the back, since it fit tight inside the rear frame rails, but I had to fill in the front subframe rails with more iron. Not too big of an issue, and since this is by no means a show car, I'm ok with it. Just an afterthought though.

Everything I should need...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9026.jpg

Axle mounts from the 12 bolt in the C10, to be welded onto the 10 bolt outta the II, as soon as pinion angle is determined, etc.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9053.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9055.jpg


Also have been considering a paint scheme. How do you folk feel about two-tone? I'm a sucker for it, and since the only real body line break on this car is either the fender bulge, or the roof, I'm thinking a red with white roof, similar to this car. Opinions?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/powertour2009200.jpg

The red will probably end up being along the lines of Farmall or IH Red, simply because I like the color, I'm passionate about the brand, and I've had good experience with tractor paint in the past with my truck. It's cheap, seems to be fairly durable, and I just like it. Adds to the whole, use whatcha got farm rod, etc etc...

I also cut down the cross member for the trailing arms, and am about to fit it to the subframe connectors. I also undercoated the trailing arms themselves, since I had a few cans left over from doing my truck. I figured it'd seal them up pretty good, so yeah. Not the best, but it should work. And if it doesn't, I was out nothing, since I already had it. :)

So, I'm gonna head back out, and see if I can't get some more done, and possibly take some more pics.

Until then...

-Sam.

Love red with a white top!

I'll take that vote! haha. Thanks.

Well, got the cross member all mocked up. It fits in these pretty good, so I'm happy about that. Definitely going to need custom floor pans, which is just a fancy way of saying I'll be using sheet metal and ribbing it for the floors. :)

No pics though, it's time to head out for bowling night. So I'll take some tomorrow, with whatever other progress I happen to make.

Things are just ticking along now, I have a feeling it won't be long...




...Ok, so it might be quite some time, but atleast things are gettin' done! ;)

-Sam.

Got a little bit more done today, but the batteries are dead in the camera. So, alas. No pics.

However, did some more welding on the subframe connectors, which have now become my frame rails for the crossmember. And since the arc welder's cables reach to the car in the garage, I out some more bead on it just to try and make it a bit stronger.

I also set it down on jack stands all the way around, and after some finagling, it sits pretty level at all four corners. You have no idea how excited I was when that happened, haha. Unless my measurements were off, it means my subframe connectors went in straight, and the car should be fairly straight and not cockeyed.

I'm hoping atleast.

And thats about it. Gonna try to get some more done this weekend, but I make no promises.

Until then...

-Sam.

magenta, ordeep red with metal flake, or red metal flake with a dark undercoat
that would look incredible!

http://www.houseofkolor.com/speedshapes/speedshapes_shimrin.jsp

specific color im thinking of
Graphic Kolor: SG106 - Maltise Maroon

coming along nicely sam.. funny that you are going red and white. my bro's wagon is that route too. here's a pic of the red when we painted the engine bay.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/kaitaiya/DSCF1527.jpg
we are also going to break the colors right at the roof line, then again maybe just the roof itself white with the pillars red(actually strawberry).


also here's another way i saw a two tone broken, at the hip line that travels down the car. we considered it, but will go more the route you have planned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/kaitaiya/ebay/8c_4.jpg

I like the hip break (I've never heard it called that before, but love the term!) but I think for this one, I'm going to go with the roof and pillar color break. It'll match my truck a bit, and add to the car's overall feel...I hope.

And that is a delicious color. I may have to consider it...which is saying alot, because I'm a cheapass! haha. :)

It's been a long weekend full of empty cans and bottles, and no work has been done on the car. Let's see if I can't get a little bit done, eh?

-Sam.

You ain't been to Walmart yet and got them batteries for the camera yet? We are waiting. ;)

OK..ok...sheesh Bill...

Trailing arms under coated. Note the plating and overall ugliness, but they're solid. Musta added 5 pounds in plating and welding rods. :P

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9073.jpg

And the crossmember. Took the truck crossmember, and cut it in half horizontally. Then on 2 pieces of rectangle tubing, I welding to chunks of angle on each piece, to give it a flush mounting surface for the trailing arms.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/DSCF9074.jpg

The tubing is just tacked on and clamped onto the frame rails, but it seems pretty centered at the moment. I'll have to do some more detailed measurements, to assure that the trailing arms aren't going to end up all cockeyed. But, to fix that it's just grind a few tacks, and bump it over an 1/8th of an inch or so.

So, thats where it stands picture wise.

Tomorrow, I think I'm going to sandblast a little bit inside the car, to clean up some rust and see what I have to work with for these odd little braces that are even with the back passenger windows.

They're pretty rusted, but seem simple enough, so I figure if I can clean 'em up, then go about fabricating replacements and fixing the old or making new ones. Then I should really get the inner rockers taken care of, so that I can plant some outriggers from the frame rails to them and stiffen the chassis/body up even more.

And as soon as I can get some bolts and U-bolts for the rear end and trailing arms, I can slide that baby under there for a mock up. And..after that, the hard part is done. It's just sheet metal and rust repair, until I get to the mechanicals. Haha.

Oh, and just to remind everyone, this is what Farmall/IH Red looks like..

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/samwise_/farmall.jpg

So, I'll see if I can't get some more stuff done tomorrow. Until then...

-Sam.

Well, time for a mid day update before I grab a bite to eat, and head back out and try to accomplish some more.

Essentially, sandblasting just isn't doing what I want it to do. Instead, it's just making a big mess. So, I'll save the blaster for smaller pieces that I can do outside to prep for paint.

Now it's time for the grinder and some sheet metal. The braces I mentioned before attach from the rock to the rear frame rail, and is where the leaf spring perch originally went. So, I'll cut out the bad, cut and bend some good, and get it welded in there.

I have a feeling that I;m going to invest in some POR 15 or something similar before this is all said and done.

After looking over my car some more, I realized it IS in fact really rough. And, as with any project, I need to stay grounded as far as my expectations. Is there anything wrong with a clean and solid driver? Hell no. And, I wouldn't want anything but that. So, I'll repair the rust as best as I can to my abilities, and make it solid and tight. Because after the repairs, almost everything gets covered by paint or more metal or trim...So as long as I know that the fix is of somewhat good quality..and you folk, since you're watching this build..lol...That's all that matters.

Alright, time to grab a sandwhich, shake the sand outta my ears, and head back out there.

-Sam.