There are lots of members asking about installing a swaybar on the front of their trucks.

First, all swaybars from 73-87 2wd trucks interchange onto earlier trucks. The larger trucks like 3/4 and 1 tons typically had larger bars on them from the factory. The bar shown in this install was given to me by a friend. We pulled it off an 86 3/4 ton 2wd truck. It is the 1 1/4" bar.

Some of our trucks came equiped with factory swaybars. If your's did, you are lucky. You can simply snag a larger unit off a heavy duty truck to improve your handling. For folks like me, who's trucks did not come equipped with a factory unit, the install process is a little more complicated.

The install documented below was performed by myself in about 2 hours.

One factor to consider is if your truck is lowered or will be in the future. The factory swaybar mounts hang very low under the frame and when the truck is lowered, they typically get bent very quickly against a curb. Early Classic Enterprises makes a set of raised mounts intended for lowered trucks. With these mounts, your bar will be high enough to never have to worry about hitting it. I used the raised mounts on my truck, which is lowered 4.5 inches in the front.

First picture is of my Blazer which uses factory GM mounts and is lowered 4.5 inches in the front. As you can see, the bar hangs too low.

Besides the swaybar itself, you will need some other parts. If you pull a unit off another truck, be sure to get the clamps (4) that bolt the bar to the truck. You can also get the factory sway bar mounts off the donor truck too, but be forewarned, they are riveted on. Usually, it's too much trouble for me to remove the rivets in the junkyard, so I just buy new mounts.

This picture is the ECE mounts. Notice the part number is written there for you. ECE mounts cost 19.00. Also, is the GM part number for the factory mounts. Just take the number to the dealer parts guy and pay 12.00 each (you need two).

You will also need 4 clamps. Remember when I said they get hit against a curb? Well, two of mine were bent, and they came off a non lowered 3/4 ton!

Don't sweat it. Notice I bought two new ones. Again GM part number is shown. Cost was 2.66 each.

New bushings are advised too. I used Urethane bushings. If you go to any local parts store that sells Moog brand parts, you can buy them there. The part number shown is for 1 1/4" bushings. Your parts guy will want to know what diameter bar you have, so measure before you go to the store.

Don't even mention Urethane to the parts guy, you will just confuse him. All Moog bushings are Urethane.

They come two to a box, so you will need 2 boxes. I paid 11.00 per box, or 22.00 for all of them. You can also order whatever flavor suits you through any aftermarket vendor. Again make sure what size bar you have before ordering.

Here is the main difficulty of the job. Notice I'm holding the brackets up where they will go, and there is a rivet in one of the holes. The rivet secures the bottom of that little crossmember in place. Take your grinder or torch and remove the rivet head. Using a punch, hammer the rivet out of the hole after de-heading it. Do one side at a time, or the crossmember will try to move. After removing the rivet, bolt the mount in place, before removing the other side rivet.

Bolt both brackets in place using 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Don't worry, the grade 8 bolt is as strong as the rivet you removed. As a note, Early Classic stuff comes with the finest hardware anywhere. All cadnium plated grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. Strictly first rate and well worth the money.

Here is one of the brackets installed. Notice I put the bolts down through the bracket before installing it. You can't do that after the bracket is in place. They taught me in airplane mechanic school years ago to always put bolts hanging down rather than up, so if the nut ever comes off, the bolt can't fall out. Right or wrong, that's the way I'm mentally programmed.

Also notice, I left all bolts loose until later to allow everything to shift a little if needed. Don't worry, I did tighten them all later on. Again, notice beautiful bracket and hardware from Early Classics. I never mind paying a little more for good stuff.

Your lower control arms on each side will have these two holes for the swaybar clamp to bolt into. Don't worry if your truck never had a factory bar, the holes will be there anyway. That blue thing is the coil spring to give reference as to where these holes are.

Now, bolt it all in. If you use new Urethane bushings like I did, there will be strong language and prying to get it to all line up. The Urethane doesn't give much slack. You might have to let the truck back down onto the ground to get everything lined up. When you finally have the bolts in all 4 clamps started, go back and forth side-to side thightening them up. Recheck all bolts for tightness when you're done.

All done! Notice how much higher this bar sits than the one in the first picture. Both trucks are lowered the same amount and have the same size tires. The Early Classics brackets raised the bar up a bunch.

If you buy the frame brackets new, you will spend 19-24 dollars. New bushings are 22.00. New swaybar clamps would be 11.00 if you bought all 4. And a swaybar typically runs about 20-30 bucks in a junkyard.

So for a total of 70-85 dollars max, you will improve the handling of your truck more than any other mod you do. Mine was a particulary good deal, but I still have less than 50 in the whole deal. If you don't have to buy the clamps and can get a bar cheaper you could save even more money. There is actuallly no reason you couldn't reuse the old bushings if they aren't oil soaked or deteoriated.

I'm not trying to screw the aftermarket vendors here, but with the Urethane bushings, your junkyard bar is just as good as the 125-150 ones sold new by vendors. It's just a 1 1/4 inch bar, not rocket science. Plus, these things are heavy and it costs some bucks to UPS one across country. But, on the other hand, you might not have the time or willingness to lay on your back in a dirty junkyard to gather all the pieces up. :rolleyes:

Excellent information!!!!

very good detail makes me wanna go out and do my swaybar but sigh cold weather and lack of a garage makes that a bit difficult :):metal:

I just completed this myself. You documented it very well. Maybe Josh can move this to a tech page.

scott

good job, great info. I am on my way to the parts store to get some new bushings now

I think we should move this thread to the FAQ page, you did a beautiful job explaining everything, including a few tips and the always difficult to find part numbers, cuz god knows the parts counter guys are dumber than a bag of door knobs!! Props to you Tx Firefighter!!!:canada:

I totally agree, It should be saved for future reference, Very nice Job.

I was wondering how this was going to work with my lowered job also, (lowered 4"-6") You showed me here what, and how to do it.. COOL !!!

Saved me a whole lot of leg and typing work..

Thanks !!
Ron





Originally posted by JHickson6
I think we should move this thread to the FAQ page, you did a beautiful job explaining everything, including a few tips and the always difficult to find part numbers, cuz god knows the parts counter guys are dumber than a bag of door knobs!! Props to you Tx Firefighter!!!:canada:

Excellent description and photos; thanks for taking the time to help out lots of people! Sway bars really do make a lot of difference (for anyone who doesn't have one)!

The new bushing make a Huge diffirence.

I put a new set on the Burban before I wercked it.

Well done my friend, thanks for the info.

Yes Thank you..Now to get off my tush and put them in!!

Great explanation, think I could even do that...and in fact, I think I will. :)

Do you have a website for Early Classics?

Thanks!!

www.earlyclassic.com

Thanks Dinnut!! Does anyone know if they make a rear swaybar?

Dave at Early Classics told me that he does not make a rear sway bar because with his springs you don't need it. He even went so far as to say that if you add one with his springs, it will probably ride like crap!

What about factory springs? Just curious, don't plan on pulling too many G's on the skid pad. ;)

On my '68 that I had in high school, I ordered front and rear swaybars (the biggest they had at LMC). I put the front in and drove it like that, I never ended up using the rear because it just didn't need it. I would think that if you are going to tow heavy loads like a camper or car trailer or something like that, then a rear sway bar would probably be a good idea to give more stability on the highway.

To each his own, but if I were you I'd only put a front sway bar out of a junkyard first, then decide if you think you still need a rear one.

Thanks for the info. I installed mine a few weeks ago off of a 76 3/4 ton Camper Special. I got the brackets and all from the wrecking yard, bought the Moog bushings and put it together, BUT. During the install I noticed the brackets seemed to over compress the bushings, but I went ahead and tightened them down and took it for a ride. I was not happy with the ride it seemed like the bar wasn't able to pivot in the bushings. I went to the hardware store an bought some washers and added two between the bracket and frame at the fronts. Also two between the "A" Arms and the brackets. The differance is amazing and I ended up with the great ride that people describe and am now very pleased. I hope this will assist anyone who encounters the same problem.

Additional note: The brackets and hardware were in great condition, I think the difference was the the thickness of the new bushing.

Good luck with your install and it's well worth doing.

Hey grat how2 I put a sway bar on my C30 big differance, i got it on with the orginal brackets in about an hour. :) It's the nice 1.25 bar, would probally put a sway bar on the rear of the C30 but on a half ton like said probally don't need a rear, esp with good springs.

I recently put a sway bar on my 78. very easy mode and worth the effort. Really worth the effort if your truck didnt have a sway bar stock. i bought new front brackets and bushings just like the thread. nice job. :bowtie:

Seems the pictures for this article got deleted when the board was converted a few months back. Thanks to another guy reposting my pictures, I was able to go back and plug them in where they belonged originally, so the article is complete again. Like a fool, I deleted the pictures after posting the article the first time.

Another one to go on my harddrive!

Just did this install last nite. I went with the ECE Brackets and some Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushing/mounts with grease zirks (1-1/16" Bar - Jegs P/N: 355-9-5162G). I had the stock 1-1/16" DIA. bar already - but it had never been on my truck (from a '72).

The install went great - even though I pretty much just went off of memory 'cause I forgot to print this page. :o

Talk about a major difference - now I know why my Camaro felt so much tighter than my truck. :eek:

One other thing...for additional clearance or for lowered trucks, it is possible to use the stock frame brackets and flip the swaybar clamps to the upper part of the frame bracket, between the frame bracket and the frame, for additional clearance. I bought the complete setup (a 1 1/16" bar off a 3/4-ton) for $25 at the local boneyard, although it did take a fair bit of whacking with a BFH and chisel to get it off :banghead:

One other thing...for additional clearance or for lowered trucks, it is possible to use the stock frame brackets and flip the swaybar clamps to the upper part of the frame bracket, between the frame bracket and the frame, for additional clearance.

I've heard of guys doing that before.

What a great install article ..... thanks TX fire. :metal:

just a little side note.

the stock brackets avalable at the dealership will not work without some help from a BFH "big frickin hammer". the holes on the bracket were too close together but with a couple of love taps on the short side at the bend streched to the correct distance.

honestly i'm just glad i checked before i got them powder coated.
ondrew
p.s. thanks for the info, this particular faq has helped me a number of times.

what kinda difference does the sway bar make in handling?

Bravo Man!!!! I'm Gonna Go Put A Sway Bar On My Truck Tomorrow!!!!

One other thing...for additional clearance or for lowered trucks, it is possible to use the stock frame brackets and flip the swaybar clamps to the upper part of the frame bracket, between the frame bracket and the frame, for additional clearance.... Another option is to remove the factory brackets ( or stands) and bolt the bushing clamp directly to the frame.... :cool:

Thanks for the excellent post. You saved hundreds of hours and thousands of words.

I think we should move this thread to the FAQ page, you did a beautiful job explaining everything, including a few tips and the always difficult to find part numbers, cuz god knows the parts counter guys are dumber than a bag of door knobs!! Props to you Tx Firefighter!!!:canada:

its not the parts guy :crazy: who are the dumb ones its usally the guy sitting on the couch making his wife call and then complaining because she doesnt no what he wants

I JUST completed this swap on both of my trucks & it truly is a killer handeling upgrade. I've been doing my Thunder Road immitation ever since the installation!:bo2: I too had to add a few washers under each bolt to not oversquish the bushings, but other than that, it was an easy install. The bars cost me $25CDN each, a handful of nuts/bolts/washers was about $10 per bar & the bushings were $25CDN a pair (& that was with a deal too). Both of the donour trucks were ex-tow trucks.

Another option is to remove the factory brackets ( or stands) and bolt the bushing clamp directly to the frame.... :cool:

:agree: Why bother with brackets? Here's my front bar.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/e78999/69%20Suburban/PB020107.jpg

TX Firefighter, you are the man. I have been looking for a great way to improve my ride and not only did you do an awesome write it up, it's an inexpensive mod as well. Thanks

A few questions:

Does it make a difference when the bar is bolted to the frame for the handling (good idea for more clearance and less $$$)

Would the bar ends clear the steering box and tie rod ends on an airbagged truck? I'm considering both airbags and a swaybar.

Thank you.

excellent info. I'm about to do mine, I already got a sway bar off a 70 so its the stock size. I wish I would have known that the later trucks would fit, oh well. It should still handel better than it does now.

Figured I'd post my results since I got my sway bar/brackets off the donor, painted and installed on the 76 today. The donner is a 1 ton with a 1-1/16 bar on it. My truck came with out like most of the them. I did it the hard way and removed the rivits from the old brackets in the dirt on my back and it took two fully charged batteries to get them cut. I'd say unless you have a good air hammer and air source handy spend the $20 get the new ones.

One good tip if you plan on getting the brackets from the donor is bring a good file and make a nice flat spot on the rivit head before you drill. Makes things alot easyer.

I went with (TPR) thermoplastic rubber bushings all around got them from the speed shop failry cheap.

The end result wasent what I expected cornering wise since the truck always did real well so i'd say not much improvment in that area. It did however tighten up the front end quite a bit and on bumps where the drivers side would usually get down to the bump stop, it keeps it much more level and the bump stop dosent hit now. It also leveled the front end a bit, as I tightned the bolts on the passenger side I could actually see that side of the truck lift up. The totally unexpected difference was made in braking. The first tap of the brake I noticed the brakes were much more resposive then usuall. Be it a result from leveling the front or tightening it all up or a combonation of both that little bit it did make a huge difference there.

Difentally gonna happen if I should ever build a 2wd.It would be awesome to make one of these old trucks handle like a Corvette 2 1/2 inch fornt drop 4 inch rear drop stiffer shocks bigger sway bars all urathane bushings.
Shane