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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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eg looks like this just to side of MC - but silver https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...p-Valve-1.html Quote:
Rear end is not where it needs to be -- I still need to weld in perches. I was going to get the pinion pretty close with a jack to lift it up and get angle ... and then run the lines. How about stuff like..... 1) Venting rear 2) Flex Lines to Hard lines ..... 3) Cleaning calipers/pistons or inspecting them - they have sat like that for 2 years ? 4) Safest/best way to route across the front. Guessing on backside of the XMEMBER ? Is the soft line to hard line just a locking tab on a bracket like this ? Generally ..... and cycle the axle to make sure nothing pinches. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/prop...019-brakes-jpg Then there is a banjo bolt I assume for soft like to caliper - but are these standard size ? Finally - once all hooked up ...... anyway to test ? Just fill with fluid and pump the brakes and bleed ...... and as long as holding pressure and engaging without leaks - should be good ? |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
OK. Just to show my ignorance here - isnt the proportioning valve the silver thing with the lines on the side (drivers) below the MC ? I do believe its a disk/disk MC my memory just is getting bad on these things and bought it like 2 years ago. So I was thinking thats just a direct hookup and would only need either a residual or adjustable valve if that one wasnt working.
eg looks like this just to side of MC - but silver https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...p-Valve-1.html yep, that is the stock valve and the wire connection would go to a dash light that indicated brake trouble. whe a line blows off or some other problem happens in one brake circuit the other brake circuit is still pressured up which causes a piston in that valve to move over and close the circuit in that switch. that prop valve may or may not work for your brake application because it is set up for the vehicle it came from which may not have the same brake bias as you need, that is the reason I mentioned an adjustable prop valve. you can adjust the bias so the rear wheels don't skid undert heavy braking How about stuff like..... 1) Venting rear 2) Flex Lines to Hard lines ..... 3) Cleaning calipers/pistons or inspecting them - they have sat like that for 2 years ? 4) Safest/best way to route across the front. Guessing on backside of the XMEMBER ? to vent the rear axle you can use a stock axle vent bolt that is long enough to go through a stock rear axle brake hose that would normally go from the frame cross member down to the axle. the hose would have a mounting flange on it for that purpose and the bolt is hollow with a barbed fitting on the end so a diff vent hose can be attached. for the hose if you use a stock hose it will be available at any parts store later on in the life of the truck. this link talks about that and also some otjher ford 8.8 stuff when swapping axles http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...ngler-rearend/ https://www.ebay.com/bhp/axle-vent flex lines to hard lines use a bracket welded to the frame (or bolted, whatever. even a hole in the frame flange is common on stock vehicles) to hold the flexible hose and a "C" clip to hold it to the bracket. then the hard line screws into the end of the flex line. look under any vehicle for an idea of how that works. see the pic in the link below and imagine the end of the hose, without the attached bracket, slipping through a hole in the frame of a frame mounted bracket with a hole the size of the fitting o/d, it would bottom out on the C clip attached to the hose already, then on the other side of the bracket another C clip is used to keep the hose from slipping back out of the bracket. the other end of the hose, with the attached bracket, goes to the diff and is held in place with the hollow bolt mentioned above. the hard lines screw into that fitting with the attached bracket and those lines go to each side brake caliper. flex hose like the axle swap pics show in the other link cleaning calipers etc plug the brake line hole so no dirt gets inside. if there is already dirt in there simply replace or rebuild the calipers. if they are clean inside the brake fitting hole then plug that and do some cleaning/inspecting. look for a cracked or torn rubber boot, siezed pistons etc. really, if they need work, a rebuilt caliper is pretty cheap compared to resealing the old one and hoping you don't need to buy new pistons etc. routing the hard line out front run the hard line across the back side of the ifs member or another cross member that is close. use nice frame clips to hold it securely. terminate the hard lines similar to the rear, with a C clip holding the parts in place |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
the brake hose link is an actual ford explorer hose for 94 ish rear axle. the bracket holds the park brake cable as well. easily sourced and if it works on an explorer it should work on your truck too, unless you plan to race or want stainless flex lines
hope that helps and doesn't confuse anybody |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
looking good. you'll be a pro and be confident by the second last flare you need to do, haha.
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
DSRAVEN - you are the MAN. Thanks for being here.
First 3/16 run on MC. Took about 4 attemps as the bends were out of alignment. https://i.imgur.com/g5xDzPgl.jpg Didnt realize the other ports are 1/4" ... so going to have to order some new line and fittings for the run off that port. Not sure if its front or back ..... |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
thanks, just trying to help.
if you take a look at some other cars, even newer stuff, they use a coiled section of tubing or a flex line from te master to the prop valve when they are close like that. it takes away the guess work on a short line like that, allows for some flex between parts and also makes it easier to swap out a master cyl if need be later on. nice work though. |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
you can easily make a loop in the line by using a piece of pipe or a wd40 can or even a spray paint can for something to wrap the line around. be careful not to kink it and point the ends in the direction you need when done.
some pics here https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
Not too much to report on been busy at work.
Cleaning the truck this afternoon ready for a POR15 base in cab area .... then wife will ;ay the soundproofing and matting down. https://i.imgur.com/7VdRSL2l.jpg Fuel Tank parts came in. TanksInc PA-4 and a floatless fuel sender. https://i.imgur.com/8ZJ65qRl.jpg |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
So whilst doing the main cab section ..... I was looking at the interior headliner.
PO did what looks like a good job from 5ft away .... https://i.imgur.com/eNtANBIl.jpg But when you get close .... https://i.imgur.com/VnTkRH2l.jpg Debating on whether to pull it out ........ and redo. Or just leave until after the truck is completed ......... after a few years if I keep it I might end up pulling the whole chassis/panel and having it professionally blasted and patched and sealed etc. thoughts ? |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
1st layer done .... thanks wife
https://i.imgur.com/JY0oSW1l.jpg foam seperator going on top followed by MLV layer after that. |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
3 layers of soundproofing down -ready for 4th layer of matt.
https://i.imgur.com/93p3Wshl.jpg Tank done today by welder - will drill out the holes ready for pump/sender. https://i.imgur.com/sAzEY1el.jpg |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
Tank drilled out with 1.5" drill and for the 4.5" I just used my plasma cutter worked ok.
https://i.imgur.com/ZhlbvpUl.jpg Assembling both the sender and the fuel pump 2 small issues. Sender bolts too short due to the 1/8th thick plate. Pump didnt come with a return line (plastic) even though meant to. I have some line lying around but not sure if fuel safe - anyway to know if no markings ? 1 is oil cooler line thats a little big but might work with a clamp ..... other is this https://i.imgur.com/mU78nv4l.jpg So off to buy some fule safe gasket/cement and some more nuts and maybe fuel line. |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
Pulled this out of teh cupboard today just to see what it looked like. I should have gone shorter ... but hadn't bought the headers and was worried about going to short.
Might just have to piull it back 1" more than I want - or look to do some aftermarket fab. https://i.imgur.com/ttH7jTbl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mgiVjAal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rdFfhaHl.jpg Anyone used clearcoat on theirs - hold up ok ? |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
column looks good!
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thats the law of projects buddy. :lol: |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Just funny how the things you think will tak 30 mins take 3 hours. And the things you thnk will take 3 hours ...... well still 3 hours :) HA HA Got the fuel in and out lines to the corvettte filter done ....... just going to pressure test them though. I can 100% say it doesnt work like the videos. You have to cut back the outer sheathing and trim the steel wire slightly away from the ferrule else there's too much interference to get them to join. Blue/silver parts here are ust the start of parts for pressurising. https://i.imgur.com/LRJlQfPl.jpg |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
Pressure tested to 80psi.
https://i.imgur.com/BtVyrppl.jpg Installed https://i.imgur.com/uPW0Yhjl.jpg |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
Practising TIG ...... its a LOT of fun.
Deciding on stainless or aluminium for exhaust. https://i.imgur.com/pVLxG2Yl.jpg |
Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
pretty!
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
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Re: 57 Panel "FAKMLC" build
fakky, will you need to connect the 2 ends of the tank to the middle so air can vent from the area as the tank is filled? will fuel be able to get up in that spot without letting the air out as the fuel level rises? you have that covered and I just missed it prolly.
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