Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
nice rides!
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Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
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The K5 went off to the body shop about 3 weeks ago and I'm hoping to bring her back home this week so I can get working on it.
Here's what the firewall looked like before. Attachment 1939217 I had the shop use this 5 piece kit from Vannatta Fabrication Attachment 1939233 Attachment 1939234 Attachment 1939237 Attachment 1939238 |
Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
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More firewall pics
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Gonna be nice when it gets back!
Pat |
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Very nice!
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For the Vintage Air setup, I'll be using a square bulkhead for the AC / Heater hoses. They used a nibbler to make the cutout since it produces minimal heat that could otherwise end up causing distortion in the metal.
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While I have been waiting for the bodywork and engine I've been keeping myself busy with a few things. I'm on my third mockup for the custom center console I think I have the final prototype that I'll be using.
Board member PICKMUP makes these cup holders for original consoles that replace the seat belt holders so I made some changes to the first design. |
Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
Mike...my boy...all I can say is wow. And sign me up. Roads...where you're going, you don't need roads. :cool:
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Re: The never ending K5 Build LS Swap
Mike, saw in your previous thread where you used a Boyd's tank from AZ performance but had to do some modification on the filler neck. Can you elaborate? Looking to order one but want to know if I need to do something custom to make it work. Thanks!
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Okay. Got a nice a little update. The Blazer comes home from body shop tomorrow and I also received my engine back. In the meantime, I've been spending much of my time perfecting my cerakote skills. If you're not familiar with Cerakote it's pretty cool stuff. It's a type of ceramic coating that is very popular with gun enthusiasts. It lays down very flat and thin (like 1mm) and they offer two kinds of curing.
I've been using their air cure (C-series coating), mainly because I don't have an oven to bake this stuff and it also has a higher temperature rating compared to the H series. These are the colors I've been using (Black Velvet, Burnt Bronze, Stop Light Red) Attachment 1944711 Every part under the hood has been painted one of these colors and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Attachment 1944712 All the AN Fittings also received the cerakote special! Attachment 1944714 More parts Attachment 1944715 Holley EFI Intake in Stop Light Red Attachment 1944718 |
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I offered my engine builder to come in and cerakote the block and heads but he insisted on doing it himself. Well, my OCD kicked in and I sanding everything down as far as I could get So reshot the block and heads. I think he should stick to building motors and leave the painting to me lol:
Attachment 1944719 Attachment 1944720 Attachment 1944721 Attachment 1944722 |
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He did a great job on porting & polishing the 317 heads for the LQ9 Block.
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The accessory drive system is from Drive Junky. It's a really nice setup. Of all the ones I was considering I liked this one the most because of how it keeps everything compact. The AC is mounted on the lower left passenger side. The kit includes a fully tig welder Jones Racing Power steering pump. They also customized the setting for the PS pump to work well with my Hydroboost setup. They actually come anodized black but I couldn't help myself to spray it in the black velvet to match everything else.
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WOW! that looks amazing. I was starting to think about how to paint my TC and motor and Cerakote is a great idea. I did an old shotgun in it once and it has been incredibly durable. What all did you did you have done to the LQ9? I found an LQ4 with a 4L65E that I am hoping to try a swap with.
Another question on your fuel system. Do you have any details anywhere on how you plumbed your tank? I assume you used the 340 pump that came with it and added an inline filter regulator? Did you keep all the original vent lines, charcoal canister, and vent lines in that connect at the back of the truck? Your threads have been really great to help me learn although I am just trying to get mine driveable and will not be a restoration by any means. Thanks for posting! |
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Truck looks great, one question though. what kind of prep work did you do before the ceracoat, do you spray or brush it on. couple parts under hood I wouls like to freshen up
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Dang son! That's how you do it!
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Cerakote recommends aluminum oxide because it creates a better surface for adhesion because aluminum oxide is more aggressive. So far, I've had luck with the glass beads, but a buddy of mine just got a new blaster and I'll be able to use the aluminum oxide in his back yard so I will begin using this and I'll also be able to blast large parts that didn't fit in the blast cabinet. I'll be doing my inner fenders and core support using aluminum oxide this week and I'll post some pics. You want to make sure you get all the rust scale and old paint off. The most important part is having a clean surface. I Really scrub the parts down with soap and water to get most of the dirt off and then I come back with a grease and wax remover and then let is soak in acetone. I just started using Dupli Color's grease and wax remover and this stuff works wonders. I don't even need to wash it with soap and water anymore. This stuff takes all the dirt out in just one application. Attachment 1945426 I am getting better and better each time I use this stuff and really starting to get the hang of it, as well as being comfortable making adjustments to the gun on the fly while spraying. This is the gun I use. On Amazon for 16 bucks Attachment 1945431 |
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Thanks for the fuel and Cerakote tips. I have been wanting to give painting a try and love the way yours has turned out.
One more question on the fuel system. Did you keep any of the original vapor recovery system? The lines in the back that used to vent the tank or the lines to the charcoal canister up front? |
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Just go for it dude! What's the worst that can happen? Lol �� Got rid of it all. When I swapped for the 427 SBC I couldn't tell a difference from when I had all it all on there (all brand parts) when I finished the restoration a couple years ago. The vapor smell will always be there IMO. |
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Thanks for the write up on ceracoat, I ll give it a go
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Back from body shop. Now it's time to get to work. I have quite a list of things I need to get done.
1. Finish the custom center console build 2. button up the engine and make sure I have all the right sensors 3. Install Vintage Air Evap (need to find alternate mounting locations) 4. Install Engine (make sure headers fit) 5. Start on the wiring a. Fuse Panel b. Relay Panel c. Switch Panel D. Vintage Air E. Dakota Dash F. Holley Terminator Max X ECU + Transmission H. Stereo, speakers, and AMP 6. Cerakote miscellaneous parts (Inner Fenders, Core support, Battery Tray, etc.. 7. Install oil cooler (Find suitable remote location) 8. Install Transmission cooler (Find suitable remote location) 9. Install PS Cooler 10. Redo some of the brake lines up front I'm sure I'm missing some stuff but that's mostly it. |
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