Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Ok, now that the cab is on, and the driveline is set, it's time to start figuring out the box and running boards. First thing I do is cut 2 lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 11ga. boxed tube steel to 49.5". These will be your new "cross-sills". I put the box on the frame, then place one cross sill above the front box mounts (the ones I left), and under the factory angle edge strips on the stock pickup box. Then the second piece of steel goes directly on the frame, behind the rear axle "hump" in the frame. This should give you a nice level bed at the correct height for my "version 2" cab stands.

Then I drill a 1/4" pilot hole through the tube steel, and a 1" holesaw on the top side (access for the nuts and bolts), and bolt them right to the frame. I seam weld the 1.5" square tube to the bed side, around all 4 sides. now when you put weight on the bed, it is supported directly by the frame, and not the bedsides.

Be sure to check for level on your box. I do that by placing a 36" level along the drivers rocker, then along the top of the bed rail. Ensuring that the bubble is in the same location for both. then I check level side to side on the front panel, and tailgate. Finally I take a measurement from the windline on the back of the cab to the top of the box on both sides to be sure they are the same.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I should have clarified. Bolt your cross sills to the frame, DO NOT weld them to the bed sides yet. Let the bed ride on the cross sills for now, so it can slide back and forth a couple inches. You will need to bolt on the fenders, and mock up the running boards/splash gaurds to give you proper placement for your bed before you weld them in. More tomorrow.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Oh man this is so good!!!
http://i.imgur.com/O1zDJ.gif

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks...

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So the next step for me is to get the brake pedal assembly, brake booster, steering column, and gas pedal taken care of. I start with the S10 pedal assembly.

I cut steering column hole (in the toe board) about 2" farther to the left to give me room to work with. Next I center the S10 pedal assembly visually between the dash gauges, so that the column will fit properly when it's finished.

I trim the pedal assembly where it meets the dash. I can't really give you dimensions, I just do it by holding it up, marking it with a sharpie, trimming, checking, until it fits right. you will have to "pie cut" the right side slightly, and re-weld it to fit the contour of the lower dash though. I use the S10 pedal assembly holes, then drill new ones in the lower dash to bolt it in. I will use these same bolts to secure the steering column later as well.

I also tack a 1/8" piece of steel 6" x 8" between the pedal assembly and the firewall, to give it more strength.

Once the dash side is bolted in, I mark the center of the holes on the firewall, remove the bracket, and drill 3/16 pilot holes from the inside. I have a poster-board template I use from outside the firewall for the center-bore of the brake booster, then I drill the 4 pilot holes out to 7/16".

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Once the pedal assembly is in, just bolt the booster/master to the outside of the firewall. Next I fill the offset hole for the old column (I center the new column between the gauges)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hey skymangs, If i found a complete running 96 longbed with the 5 speed manual transmission, can I use that tranny on a SBC 350 engine?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, thanks for the details! I was literally planning on making my cab stands/frame mounts today, using 4x4 tubing, with a bracket to leave 3.5" clearance on the front and 3 3/4 on the rear, plus stock s10 pads.

My question is, your plans show 3 1/4 on the front, and 4 inches on the rear plus stock s10 pads, how much clearance do you have for the transmission? or do you fab up a trans tunnel?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This thread is great. The addition of the tips and tricks (like cleaning the wax off the frame) and the measurements for various setups is very helpful and not typically covered in build threads... Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm doing an S-10 swap but have a couple questions for anyone that would offer advice...I have a 95 longbed frame but don't know if that frame will work after researching a few other builds. I think that it may be to long at 205"....Also what rear axle ratio works better with a SB V8? I'm trying to find an S-10 4x4 rear end that is longer or a Ford 9"...Any advice is greatly appreciated...thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Scratch that 202" measurement. That's the overall and not wheelbase.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Uncle Jimi; i build a tunnel. I'll cover that in this thread as well.
Nebo49. The important measurement is the wheelbase. Should be 117". The 95 frame will work. On rear ends, 4x4 S10 is the easiest swap. They are usually 3.42 ratio, and work nicely with a 700r4.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm out of the net till 6 July. I'm participating in Peterson's 4wd "Ultimate Adventure"

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Sorry it's been awhile. I was 4 wheeling my way across the mid-west. I just finished up the promised motor mounts today. I also managed to mock up a 350, without cutting the firewall, using stock Malibu exhaust manifolds, and a mechanical fuel pump.

First I cut some 1" O.D. 11ga tube to fit inside the S10 4.3 motor mounts (I put new ones on every build). Then 1/2" x 4" bolts and lock nuts. I bolt the tube on the motor mount, then mock the motor up where I'm happy. Next I use posterboard to template my "legs". Then I trace them on 1/4" sheet, and cut them out. Once it's all mocked up and I'm happy with the placement, I tack them in (several places) and pull the driveline to seam weld the mounts.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's the finished motor mounts, and the final engine placement. Note the added height to clear the mechanical fuel pump. This build will need a small transmission tunnel.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great info Skymangs! Thanks for taking the time to do it. It's going to make things a lot easier for someone like me who plans to go down this road.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I bought a '50 1 ton a couple weeks ago. I have been looking at everyones build of these trucks trying to figure out which way to go. I wanted to leave it stock, but it does nothing for me. These s-10 swaps are bad a$$ and I love the look. I was poking around a freinds last night a found a short bed frame,4cly,5sp for $200. I am know joining the swap team. This article is great. I don't think I would tackle this project without this board and these tech articles.

Thank you for such a great article. I am following every step of the way.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks guys.

Here's a tip for those who are using the old school 350... If your donor vehicle has a 4.3, you can swap all the accessory drive stuff, and run a serpentine belt. You will need to pull the crank pulley and water pump as well (reverse drive pump). Here's some pics, I just set up on a mid 70's 350 for a customer.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Lets spend a little time on steering columns tonight. A lot of guys try to save a buck by re-using the stock S10 column. That works, but IMHO, they look like dookie... There's a lot of crap hanging below the column (pic 1), and keys belong in the dash on an old truck. But if that's what your build calls for, here's how I go about setting an S10 column up for a swap.

First I open the firewall hole about 2" more to the left (covered earlier). Then I make a poster board template (2 pieces) to fit over the column and match the angle of the toeboard/firewall. Trace it on sheetmetal, then cut it out. Next I make a small "drop bracket" for the column. I make the bracket so that it uses the same bolts as the pedal assembly to attach it. (pic 2 and 3)

Then I attach the drop bracket to the dash, and hold the column in position while I tack weld the backside. Once that's done, the lower bracket (to firewall) gets positioned and tacked. Then I pull the whole thing out, and seam the backsides so it doesn't show. (pic 4).

When it's all done, your drop bracket shouldn't even be visible. (pic 5)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

If I use the stock column, I make a cover for all the crap hanging below. Just 18ga. sheetmetal, I make a poster board template to get the fit right, then cut it in steel, bend, and weld to finish it.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I think a lot better way to go is a brand new column from Gearhead Enterprises (Ebay). All the wiring is tucked into the column, and looks much cleaner installed. I've gotten them in plain steel and/or chrome, column shifted or not. All cost around $170-180 shipped. Installation is the same for them.

If you are using a column mounted shifter, the only shift rod I use is the Lokar one. It is pricy, but works better than anything else I've tried. It is adjustable, bendable, and uses double heim joints, so it will work with a LOT of mis-alignment.

Here's a pic installed

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, Looks awesome, you sure make this look easy! I'm wondering what gauges are those in the 4th pic of post 60? Also, would you mind posting a link to the Gearhead steering column on ebay?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Uncle Jimi: I don't recall the brand on the gauges, but they are common 3 3/8" aftermarkets. I can cover how to convert your stock gauge pods to hold aftermarkets later as well. The best look I've seen is 5" round gauges. They fit right inside the stock bezels, and look trick.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's a link to an example column on ebay. I just want to be sure we all understand that I'm not endorsing any particular company, I'm just showing what I typically use. Correct length should be 32"... 30" will work, but you have to get a little creative on the firewall bracket.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLAIN-Steel-...49ab99&vxp=mtr

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Next on the list is gas pedal install. I make a pedestal for the S10 pedal. I do that so it has enough room for full travel, therefore gives you full throttle when it's near the floor. Once the pedestal is made, I position it, then tack weld it on the floor. Then I mark for my throttle cable hole in the firewall, drill it out to 3/8", and use a square file to "square the edges" so that the cable snaps in at the firewall.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great stuff in this thread. I just bought a 49 Chevy panel. And was considering options for suspension. Can you tell me what is the best choice year wise for a donor S10 chassis?
Also do you sell the cab to frame mounts outright?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thank you, I like using 87-91 chassis, with a 4.3L and 700R4. pre-87 didn't have a 4.3, so the 700R4's from them won't bolt up to a small block. 92 they converted to VSS, with no mechanical speedo output. Send me a PM on brackets, I've made them for several folks, but I don't usually do it that way since the running boards and bed are kind of a fab as you go thing. :lol:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This thread is awesome! Please keep the info coming as I am in the process of building my own and need guidance.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thank you, I'm enjoying sharing it.

Here's a bit of clarification on the Brake pedal setup. The first pic is my hen scratches, showing where I cut to make the S10 pedal assembly fit. Second pic is after I've cut the excess off. Once it's cut, you'll have to tweak the passenger side to fit the curve of the dashboard. aligning it is an eyeball thing, I just sight down the center of the gauges, and line it up with the column firewall hole (after I've cut 2 inches farther to the left). I just installed this setup today (pic 3) so it's fresh in my mind.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So, if I'm not mistaken, at this point in this thread we have a cab installed, driveline installed, suspension work completed, front fenders and core support are on, bed is on, but the cross sills are not welded yet (so it can move back and forth). Seems to me like the next step is to hang your rear fenders.

I use 2 bolts in each (for mock up) and I do not use lock nuts (until the final assembly). Once your fenders are on, you'll want to start mocking up your running boards (pic 1 and 2) I put the frame up on jackstands (for room), and use a bunch of 4x4, 2x4, 1x2 blocks and do small adjustments with carpenters shims. The length of the running board will decide the final placement of the box.

I bolt the rear to the fender, then line the front up with the front fender. Important gaps to check are the rear splash guard to the back of the cab, and the top of the board under the cab. Be sure your gap here is even from front to rear of the cab. Also, be sure that your rear tire is centered in the wheel well before you do any welding! My final check is to run a 36" level (front to rear) on the rocker (inside the door), then on the bed rail, then on the running board. The bubble should be in the same relative position for all three. This will tell you that your set up is square.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Once you are happy with your mockup on the bed and running boards. Go ahead and tack your bed cross sills to the bedside. Do several tacks on each joint though... you don't want to go through that again should a tack weld pull off!

:lol:

A properly mocked up bed/running board combo should look something like this

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm wondering on the brake pedal bracket, if I recall in the s-10 it bolted to the dash with the stock stearing column through the two holes.

Do you suggest not using that stock set up? Just eyeballing mine, but seems like it should line up centered???

Also, wondering what the wheel and tire size the gray and black truck has?

Thanks again for the awesome write up!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very informative & well thought out. I dig the fact that you've done this, at all, for the general garage build guy - like me.\

I've stayed away from these trucks before due to not feeling comfy about the swap. I'm feeling much better now.

My previous experience was in complete tube frame or back half round tube builds (cars). If you believe it I find it a bit EZ'r due to not having to work with constraints between a newer frame & an older body.

Again - I appreciate what you've done & will probably attempt this type build after my '64 Fairlane tube car hits the road.

Keep the updates coming.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Uncle Jimi; I use the stock S10 holes on the pedal bracket. I drill new holes on the underside of the pickup dash to bolt the pedal assembly through. I also use the same bolts to secure my fabricated drop bracket. Grey and black truck has 17x8's front and rear. I think the tire size was 225/50R17 front and 255/50R17 rear.

Ratty46, thank you. I've done Camaro stubs and custom triangulated 4 links as well. These are just the mainstay of my projects. Easy to accomplish, in-expensive, quick turn around. and very popular.

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Well I'll tell you skymangs ... you make it look EZ. I dig the in-expensive part the most.

I've got 1 more car to SFI to 7 seconds & then I'm all over this project!

Keep us updated PLEASE.

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I hate to clutter your thread, but... THANKS!

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Someone asked about cutting the inner fenders. First I cut at the bottom wind line, front to rear (pic 1). Then I hold each inner up against the cab, and mark the area for the upper A frame. Then I cut that area up to the second wind line. That's it, this will clear the frame and A frames with both versions of my brackets.

Once it's all fit, I'll take a flap disk, and clean up my wobbly plasma cut lines. :lol:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Let's move on to running board brackets. I start with 1.5" 11ga. square tube. I cut the front bracket to 10 inches. the rear 2 are 9.5" long (see attached PDF)

Once the lower brackets are cut, measure 1/2" in, centered, mark for your hole. Then measure 4 3/8" and mark center. These will be the holes for your running boards. I drill all the way through with a 9/32" bit (pic 1), then open them up to 1/4". Finally I use a 1" holesaw on the bottom side for nut/socket clearance (pic 2). Pic 3 shows them bolted to the bottom of the running board

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Next I mock the running board up, bolting the rear to the fender, and blocking below my new lower brackets. It's important to be sure that your board is on the same plane as your cab floor and bed rail! Also, check the gap between the splash guard and the back of the cab. should be about 3/8". The running board should be parallel to the bottom of the door from front to rear as well.

Once it's mocked up, I verify my templates fit between the lower bracket and the frame (pic 2 is of the templates). If this is your first build, you'll have to make them. I used strips of 1.5" poster board, then notched the lower end, and angled the upper end to match my frame.

Once your templates are made, trace them onto 1.5" square tube, cut them out, and fit them to the mocked up running board. I tack the lower side, then pull the board off to seam weld the joint (pic 3). Then re-mock up your running board, double check all the critical fitment areas, and weld your angled brackets to the frame. Finished product should look like pic 4. I just finished running boards on this truck yesterday, it's about a 4 hour process.

I buy a 20ft stick of 11ga. 1.5" steel, it's just right for 2 49.5" bed cross sills, and has enough left to finish the running boards as well. Cheers!

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Almost forgot... I don't buy those fancy bolt kits. Running boards go on with 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts, 1/4" washers, and nylock nuts (courtesy of Lowes).