Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I did,

We (ORD and myself over email) came up with a couple of solutions for my problem.


one was to use different tierod ends, like these for a 73 K5 blazer

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45A01.../dp/B000C9MGRE

I didn't really like that as much, because the bend looks weak compared to the strait ends.


the next option, was to shim the axle using ORD offset plates like described above

I wasn't sure these would net enough clearance. it's hard to say without the balljoints in the knuckle tight.


another option, was to tighten things down as it, and see exactly where everything lands, which may end up not being so bad, as mentioned, the spring and axle more or less, move the same amount, so a little clearance is all that's needed anyways.


the last option, was to go with a high steer setup, and like the sucker for shiny parts that I am, I ended up ordering the high steer. it should be here this weekend, along with a few other parts/tools I've needed to get this hulk moving again.


on another note, the rear drums were able to be turned! that saves me a little over $100, which all went to getting new wheel cylinders, and calipers. hopefully, by the end of the weekend, I'll have the front wheels on it and my neighbors can quit giving me "the look" lol!

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

The ball joints are tight, and the new axles are home. I need to install the spindles still, but I wanted to wait until after I get the high steer kit so I can start putting the front brakes on in one go. I installed new shoes in the left rear drum, (stock drums were turned) and I think I found out another reason why the rear brakes looked so clean and unused, the adjuster was frozen solid and almost completely compressed. I pulled it apart, cleaned it, and lubed it(anti seize). I'll do the right side on Friday.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Awesome progress man!

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Thanks, I'm hoping to have it on four wheels again tomorrow afternoon. I still need a few parts for the steering that won't be here until sometime Monday though...

shoes and rear brakes are done, with the exception of adjusting.

https://i.imgur.com/H1MLpRN.jpg

I went ahead and started installing the brakes, the spindles, and backing plates went on without issue, but one of the wheel bearing seals kept not wanting to go in straight. I also picked up new lockout hubs, I was going to just keep the stock auto lockers, even though they're made of glass, but when I started cleaning them up for install, I realized one of them was already broken...

https://i.imgur.com/gofNrFl.jpg

new calipers and shocks installed:

https://i.imgur.com/LRNJlGK.jpg

Radiator, condenser, and all accessories are installed, the belts are tight.

https://i.imgur.com/dswWfID.jpg

Trans cooler lines worked out nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/3oR4aTI.jpg

this is how I lubricate drum brake adjusters:

https://i.imgur.com/kFgo1SF.jpg

start by cleaning the adjuster with a wire brush and brake clean

https://i.imgur.com/aBVYTkj.jpg

Apply lube

https://i.imgur.com/WujSprm.jpg

wipe excess off after threading the body all the way on.

https://i.imgur.com/1HlHfaS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ddIKK0z.jpg

here's the nose and washer.

https://i.imgur.com/PlPtkiy.jpg

lube the wheel with a thin coat of lube.

https://i.imgur.com/7F5Wf9J.jpg

install the washer

https://i.imgur.com/fSqmlsf.jpg

pack the nose with lube

https://i.imgur.com/uUzhTi9.jpg

twist it onto the body, and be sure to wipe the excess off afterwards.

https://i.imgur.com/WMbBsDx.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Those things are worthless!

One time we were up camping in the mountains with the family and the camper trailer. Went up an logging road to a high mountain meadow. I was trying to back the trailer up a little hill between the trees so I put the Suburban in low range. The rear wheels kept spinning on the grass. I had to keep pulling forward and finally got the hubs to sorta kinda engage so we could get parked.

Came back to town the next week and ordered a pair of Warn hubs. I still have the factory hubs just in case I was ever to sell/trade for another GM 4wd, and put them back on and keep the Warn hubs. Probably at this point I would just sell it intact.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Love the detail on the adjusters. Nice work.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

yeah, I was just trying to be cheap when I was going to keep them, but when I saw damage, I knew I'd be a fool to keep them.

Thanks, hopefully they hold up like that. my biggest concern is dust contamination, which hopefully has been minimized by the minimal exposed grease. they only have to last long enough for me to design adapters for late model front brakes, and find a late model 14 bolt FF with disc brakes.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

stock spring hanger

https://i.imgur.com/S3lMb3a.jpg

hanger removed. an air hammer made this much easier. for the ORD brackets, the original holes have to be drilled to 7/16". doing this with the gas tank in on a suburban, is almost impossible on the driver's side due to clearance issues with the spare tire well. I partially dropped the tank, and used a right angle drill adapter from lowes to get the holes made.

https://i.imgur.com/bqlP7xA.jpg

My jack didn't go high enough for me to snake the axle out with the wheels and tires still on, so I improvised and used the cheery picker.

https://i.imgur.com/jCwDVae.jpg

stock Vs. flip

https://i.imgur.com/QtrVbu2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f1QZGFi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nfkVpWJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2BgJBhi.jpg

on four wheels!

https://i.imgur.com/OF4YokM.jpg

Unfortunately, ORD forgot the rod ends(they're on the way) when they shipped my high steer kit, and there's no rear driveshaft (being shortened), so it doesn't move yet.

https://i.imgur.com/PODotGG.jpg

I was making fast progress on the list, but I had to add to it... :( I think the oil pressure switch on the rear chinawall by the distributor failed. it's hard to see back there to be sure though.

https://i.imgur.com/yiUPvZ0.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I was able to confirm that the oil leak was from the chinawall oil pressure port, although, it wasn't from the switch, it was from the fittings. then the original one broke, I had to put a few fittings together to make it fit, and the leak was from one of the intermediate fittings. I was able to get it back together, but I haven't had a chance to re-test it yet.

I got all the brake lines tight, but I still need to bleed them, and adjust the rear shoes, I plan to try and get that done this weekend.

The only other snafu is the parking brake cable. in current form, it's about 2" too short, I have a few plans of how to handle that, the fastest solution I think I have, it to weld up a longer parking brake cable connector to make up the difference. it shouldn't be too hard.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

oil leak is fixed, and the rod ends for the high steer setup came in! I threw it all together and did a very quick and dirty "alignment" with a tape measure and calibrated eyeball in the driveway. looks close enough to get me down the road where I can have a real alignment done. I also shot timing again, it was way off, I estimate it was somewhere around 20 degrees AFTER top dead center... I'm surprised it ran so well... it was really sluggish though. I bumped the timing up to about 5 degrees BTDC, as you might guess, it runs much better now, way more responsive, and much quieter/smoother.

all that progress, just to hit another snag. I tightened up all the brake lines, dumped fluid in, and can't seem to get anything out of the rear circuit. I am getting fluid from both ports in the master, so I'm thinking the porportioning valve may have failed somehow. I'll do more troubleshooting in the morning, hopefully it's something simple.

other than the brakes, the only thing preventing a test drive, is the rear driveshaft, which I'm hoping is done tomorrow, so I can get it back together.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

That seems to be the purpose of those valves :lol:

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Actually, I'm starting to think the shuttle valve inside the porportioning valve is doing exactly as designed, unfortunately for me, that means it's making my life harder too.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Well, all I know is that my 1989 had no rear brakes when I got it. Now I've got it all fixed and the brakes work good but the light is still on and sometimes it flashes.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Does your 89 have ABS?

I tripped the shuttle valve, that's why wasn't getting any fluid. I just reset it, and am now going to gravity bleed the brakes before continuing.

The valve was a PITA to reset, only because of it's location on the frame, which is now under my ORD steering box brace. If it isn't flowing to the front brakes, there it a button on the valve you can push to reset it. If it isn't flowing to the rear, you have to remove the porportioning valve from the combination valve, and then push the shuttle valve towards the front circuit, it clicks into place.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Not sure; I don't think so.

I thought the valve was the one right outside the master cylinder, with the wire running to the top? There is also some sort of module right beside all that. Both the 89 pickup and the 91 suburban seem to have the same system.

The shop that I had fix the brakes (they were completely destroyed!) didn't know how to get the light off and didn't know why I should even care. Yeah, it's just a "ranch truck' but I don't go to that shop anymore ;)

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I'm pretty sure 89+ got ABS. 4x4?

you probably need to reset the switch like I described above, or the ABS module is on the fritz. I don't know how exactly ABS worked on the later trucks, I've never needed to look into it. when I install late model brakes on this truck, I plan to move the combination valve up to the master cylinder like most applications have.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I've read something here about the PV reset getting tripped, it happened to someone else here once.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

4x4, yes. I think special-K or someone on here said these trucks had RWAL.

Either one, I would just like to delete (probably isn't working anyway). I drove for decades without either one of those ;)

Sorry to interfere in your build thread.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I'm pretty sure that's right that they only got rear wheel. it's probably not too hard to delete, just look at the wiring diagrams and see what components ground the light.

as far as "interfering", it was on topic discussion, and we are all here to learn from one another, I have no issue with anyone posting here, as long as it's on topic.




There is so much miss-information out there on the combination valve, the PV doesn't have any components to "trip". I did a quick write up on the components, and what they do.


https://i.imgur.com/Uw9uQSz.jpg

on the left, you have the front brake outlets, if desired, theoretically, you could plug one of the front outlets and run a "T" off of the other to supply both brakes, it really doesn't matter which goes left or right. there is also a metering valve, which allows the rear brakes to apply slightly before the fronts(this is important in later discussion).

in the middle section, you have both inlets from the master cylinder, a warning switch, and the shuttle valve(switch piston).

on the right, you have the single rear brake outlet, and the porportioning valve. many people refer to the combination valve as a porportioning valve, but it is only part of the assembly. the porportioning valve prevents rear brake lockup on a panic stop by limiting flow to the rear, and creating a more gradual apply.

the center of the shuttle valve has a detent which operates the warning switch. in the event of a brake line failure, pressure on the side with a failure will drop, and the side without failure will be much higher, which in turn results in the valve moving to block the port of the failed section. when the valve moves, the detent activates the switch triggering a brake warning on the dash.

now, for front failure, there is a button on the side with the front brakes, which allows the valve to be reset and the brakes bled. but there is not a reset for the rear, that's because the metering valve should allow the valve to reset itself. in the case of a rear system failure, there are a few options to fix it, the more difficult and painful way, is to disconnect the rear brake line from the porportioning valve, remove the porportioning valve (***it's reverse thread!!!***)and use a pin to reset the valve. reassemble the components, and then let the rear circuit gravity bleed. there is a tool that can be installed in place of the brake warning switch to keep the shuttle valve from actuating, this will allow you to go straight to a normal bleeding procedure. the second option is more debated than the first, but should work when performed properly. with the light on on the dash, now stomp on the brake pedal, but almost as soon as your foot hits the pedal, get off of it. the metering valve will allow rear line pressure to build sharply, but not the front which should cause the valve to shift towards the front circuit and reset.

mine tripped last night while I was trying to bleed the brakes, and I decided to sleep on it. woke up this morning, did some reading, went out to reset it, and the light was out... so time might also help reset the valve, although, I wouldn't bank on it, I may have just been lucky.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Thanks for all the information!

It's been almost six years since I had the rear brakes restored, so I guess the light isn't going to heal itself with time. :lol:

I ran across something else about just pulling the wire off the switch terminal, but I've tried and I can get the bloody thing to come off! I'm about that || close to just cutting the wire :devil:

BTW, just what is the big flat "module" suspended just beside the MC and the valve ???

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Cutting the wire will make the light go out, but probably not fix a problem.

try the quick stomp, I intentionally tripped it two or three times to make sure that the technique works. I made a quick video to illustrate how quick the jab is.

https://youtu.be/OJ9mrFhc5rw

The big flat module is probably the ABS Module, but I can't say for sure, I've never had an ABS equipped square.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Thanks for the tip! I will go out and try that shortly.

The 89 pickup isn't a square, but it looks to be the same setup as my 91 suburban (which is "newer" but yet "older" :lol: ). Only difference is the 91 has steel MC reservoir while the pickup is plastic. The suburban brakes are fine; I'm not sure if I've even replaced the pads in 18 years.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

10-4, the connector for the light is removed, at least on the squarebodies, by squeezing the sides, if you squeeze them, and pull, and the light stays on, disconnect the switch at the parking brake. if it's still on, the wire could be shorted to ground somewhere, or the ABS module is lighting it up somehow.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Okay, I tried the quick stomp as per the video several times and no success.

I finally got the wire pulled off, and the light is still flashing so it's apparently something else. Otherwise brakes work fine and fluid level is staying steady. The parking brake is disconnected because the arm in the LR was destroyed and I haven't yet gotten to a junkyard to try to find another one. The part isn't available new so the shop put it back together without either one. I have the RR parking brake arm in my glovebox. ;)

I compared these two trucks again, the 1989 GMT400 and the 1991 squarebody. The brakes are basically the same and both apparently have the RWAL as there is another device that the rear brake line runs through that upon closer inspection has wires that connect to the flat module. Only difference other than the steel MC reservoir is that the 91 has the PV and RWAL devices mounted crossways under the MC and the 89 has them fore and aft.

If the RWAL works on either truck, it is undetectable when driving. Maybe I just never tried to stop that fast?

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

if I had to guess, then I would say it's probably the ABS module detecting some sort of failure and lighting up to signify it.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I would guess that you're a good guesser ;)

// true grit fan

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I've been bleeding the hell out of my brakes, and I need to wake up and face the music that my master cylinder is the wrong size. the JB5 master I have stock, has 2 different size, pistons, one smaller, one larger. The JB7 master has 2 larger, same size pistons about 1/2 way inbetween the JB5 pistons, which partially explains my soft mushy pedal. unfortunately, the larger master, uses smaller fittings on one port, which would be more difficult to adapt compared to larger ports. I have found another master, that's slightly bigger, with one port the same size as my stock lines, and one slightly bigger that I may be able to adapt to with a bushing, but, then I have to worry about pedal response, if I use the larger master, will I be pushing a rock to stop the truck? the larger master would have approximately 10% more area compared to the "correct" master. they're both relatively inexpensive, so I think I'll try the larger master since it will require less work to fit, and see how the truck responds.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

last night at work, I started working on a list of things I either need to do, or acquire for taking the Pig Rig on longer trips, like to Alaska and back

one of the major things I started with was spare parts, in this case, I looked for single point failure parts that disable the truck and can't be easily rigged up or bypassed to limp home on, and then added things that can make roadside "repairs" get you somewhere where a real repair can be completed.

Parts/materials:

IGN coil
IGN module
Belts
Fuel filter
JB weld
Zip ties
Bailing wire
Electrical wire/crimps/tape
RTV
tire plug kit

with the exception of the belts, I'm 99% sure all of that will fit into a single 7.62 ammo can, the belts might fit as well depending on how tight I can cram everything in.

but obviously, this is only half the picture, if you have parts, but no tools to install them, then you may as well not have the parts, so I'm also going to make up a tool list containing the tools necessary to install belts/coils/modules, as well as a few common wrench sizes and a small socket set, double covering common GM sizes like 3/8, 1/2, and 9/16.

on the other side of the field, I began looking at things I would like to add to make trails and trips more accommodating.

The truck has an AUX battery already, but I'm not sure what circuit triggers the solenoid to allow it to be put to use.
I need some means of adding pressure to the tires when getting off the trails
Recovery gear in in the event I get stuck, which is a whole topic by itself...
camping gear to include a means of cooking food and making coffee
a water supply
communications of some kind, I'm looking into signal boosters for cell phones.
animal control (bear spray and the like)
and a charging station for go-pros, phones, and the like.

I will elaborate more on how I plan to accomplish some of these ideas as I go.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

My understanding is that the Alcan and Cassiar highways are paved all the way now, so it's not quite the adventure that it was back in 1977/1979. I would suggest doing the Cassiar at least one direction as the scenery is breathtaking the entire 400 or so miles through northwestern BC. I did it both ways, and it was much improved coming back 2 years later.

Unless things have changed in 40 years, there isn't much real off-road adventure in Alaska. Mostly you have to hike, fly, or boat off a maintained road. Pretty much everything is either a built road or muskeg/bush/mountains. Of course there are some gravel roads where a capable vehicle is always an advantage, but there's a good chance you may never lock in your hubs. The only real "four wheeling" I ever got to do up there was gleaning firewood from power line right of ways. You probably can't do stuff like that anymore, and anyway you can get buried to the headlights if you go the wrong place and that's a little too much "fun."

It's a dang shame that you can't take a significant sidearm through Canada, at least that I know of? You might want to check into the paperwork to take a .30-30 levergun or a 12 gauge slug gun with you.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Planning to take a ferry partway up don't really have a particular destination in mind yet, but I want to put tires on glacier at some point during the trip. the way back will be entirely over the road. it will be one hell of a shake down run, after I get back, I plan to leave for speed week in Bonneville, and then hit Arches National park. who knows what else!

https://i.imgur.com/h8q9naO.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

The stretch from Terrace BC up to Watson Lake YT (the 90 degree turn right on the line) is the Cassiar Highway (37, I think). Very beautiful; don't miss Boya Lake! The side trip down to Stewart past Bear Glacier is well worth it, though I guess there is a lot less ice now than 40 years ago when the toe of the glacier was clear down to the water right across from the road.

I wonder how one would handle a fuel pump failure on the road ??? I guess start with a brand new one and hope for the best ;)

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I'll most likely start with a brand new one. I have a 40 gallon tank to put in it now and am debating on whether or not to install it before the trip. if I put the 40 in, It will definitely have a new pump, and I may or may not carry a spare. probably not as they don't really fail too often... (knock on wood...)

I appreciate the trip plan feedback more than you can imagine. I have never been to Alaska and I really don't have a plan. I made a goal about 6 months ago to drive to all 50 states, Alaska being the last hard one to get to. if you're wondering, I already have Hawaii checked off. I worked in the engineroom on a vessel that transited to Hawaii so I count that.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

well, I don't have anything to cool to report. I picked up some steel at an auction, in the pictures, it looked like it was 1/8" wall, turns out, it's 1/4", so I'm not sure whether or not I will make bumpers out of it.

https://i.imgur.com/Fa2F1mY.jpg

I got the driveshaft back and installed, and the new master cylinder in, but I need to bleed the brakes again. hopefully everything goes off without a hitch and on saturday I can take it for a shakedown tour around the block or something.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

something of note here:

never trust parts store info. on the Oreilly auto parts website, they list the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks as having different size brake master fittings, they are swapped front to back, but are not different sizes.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

did a little interior work today, I pulled the back seats out, and am making a panel that lays flat to replace them, it will have two hinges center, so that it opens gullwing style and allows for a bit more storage. I am going to remove the seatbelts too, I just don't have the right torx bit on hand to do it.

https://i.imgur.com/iCaOVlG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lJNt7ZC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jbGwr0k.jpg

one of the seatbelts had a regular bolt in it, I removed it to find the hole torn and stretched. I'm begining to think this truck was hit HARD on tha passenger side. I think I might start looking for a 3/4 ton in better shape to do the duramax swap into.

https://i.imgur.com/Knn3mqL.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I was considering removing our Suburban rear (middle) seat so that I could put a mattress in the back and have a foot well between the bed and the front seats. You can't open the barn doors from the inside so if you're sleeping inside, you have to enter/exit through the back seat doors. But LadyGMC wasn't too keen on the idea so I think we are just going to sell or trade it for a nice GMT400 pickup and a small pickup camper.

It's nice that you are doing a build in order to actually go out and travel in it, rather than just a show truck or something to sell and start over.

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

the "bedframe" is coming along nicely

https://i.imgur.com/GwNEiko.jpg

in the truck:

https://i.imgur.com/PTPN5xy.jpg

rough cut plywood thrown on top

https://i.imgur.com/Rz5TgZO.jpg

further cut with hinge added

https://i.imgur.com/7FefP4R.jpg

both hinges

https://i.imgur.com/vu7uY0N.jpg

lifts up gullwing style. I still need to add a filler piece in beneath the side rails to keep things from rolling out the bottom, but it functions ok. it's held in place by the hinge the seatback would have used, and I'm going to add a bracket to bolt it to the floor near the front on each side. I also need to add a hole to lift it by, and a kickstand to hold it up while it's open.

https://i.imgur.com/xAkcSxy.jpg

I also got a new favorite toy, Hypertherm Max40 plasma cutter, it's probably 30+ years old, but ti works and was about $700 less than a new one!

https://i.imgur.com/19EoE07.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

So what is your expedition load out plan?

Will you slide you mattress to the front and have a couple feet at the back for cargo, or for a chuckwagon box ?

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

I was planning on using an air mattress than can be easily moved around as needed. I really need to start planning what I am going to take with me so I can figure out how and where it's going to go.

The brakes on this thing have been giving me hell, turns out, my brand new master leaks... that'll prevent you from stopping for sure.

https://i.imgur.com/9dgRnlF.jpg

the trans cooler lines were a bit too long, and the ends had the wrong angle to them, so I chopped the slack out and put 90 degree ends on instead. I gained a pretty good bit of clearance with it.

https://i.imgur.com/0y0P9b2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rseVuQ7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cbx8e5R.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zreilWl.jpg

Re: The Pig Rig!
 

Those "aeroquip" type fittings are handy! We used to find hoses in trashcans and junkyards, then go buy some new bulk hose and change the fittings over. People were throwing away hoses with re-usable fittings and thought we were crazy digging through the trash! I plumbed most of a log loader that way.

Anyway, I had a crazy idea about building a raised platform for sleeping in the back with storage underneath, and taking out the second seat like you did for access and a footwell and maybe some storage on one side. I think we're going to just trade for a long bed pickup instead.