Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Thank you, I sure had to work hard for it!

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Have been working pretty hard lately, and have been sharpening up my welding skills, never really welded anything until now so it might look a little sloppy now but I have to learn somehow, plus dad bought me a new grinder so I can make it look nice either way:lol:. Here is the progress I have made so far, one side almost ready for rockers and the other I still have to start on.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Nice work on the rust repair. Using patch panels looks like it saved you lots of time.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Thanks, although i'm sure it did save me a ton of time I originally though they would fit a bit better but it is what it is, some of my patch panels came with the truck when I bought it which was a plus.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Repairs are looking good! I am considering going with KBS Coatings on my frame etc also. Did you just use the Rustseal Product? Did you use their etching solution before applying it?
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Yep, I bought the large frame coater kit which includes three products to be used in 3 differents stages first you use the KBS Klean (Cleaner/Degreaser) apply to the surface generously and keep it wet for approximately 10 minutes and be sure to rinse it off with water, second stage is called Rustblast which is a phosphoric acid I believe which is similar to many other products that eat rust and leave a zinc coating over the substrate, you apply this anywhere from 10 minutes to 2 hours I believe depending on how bad the rust is, also DO NOT let this stuff dry on there and don't forget to rinse it off when your done, then you should be able to apply the rustseal anytime you have time within a certain time period, about 30 days if I remember correctly. Make sure to be in appropriate temperature conditions and follow the directions to a "T" for best results. Any more questions just ask, I would recommend KBS to anyone.:chevy:

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

cool, thanks for the info on their product! One other thing I was wondering about was there are parts of my frame that still have good paint on them, do I have to strip it to bare steel or will the rust blast prep that too?
Thanks again
Jeremy

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

That I am not 100% sure on. But I did run into the same thing what I did was took some aggressive sand paper like 36 grit and scuff the good paint down maybe so a bit of steel is peaking out and repeat the same process you would with rusty metal, this way at least the surface is prepped right and instead of just chemical adhesion you get mechanical adhesion as well. Hope that helps

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Yes that seems like a good way to deal with it, thanks again for your insight

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

No problem!

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Got the trailing arms painted along with new poly-urethane bushing installed. Installing the bushing was more of a pain than I would have thought but got them in none the less also put my 4 inch drop springs in it, now I just need to pick up some shocks. Now a question for anyone who knows, since I lowered my truck will I need shorter shocks?

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Yes. You may also want to look at relocating the shock mounts. I am not sure at what drop, but I think you will also need to go with an adjustable panhard bar.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Everything looks like its gonna line up fine as of where the shocks mount, and my panhard bar bolted up just fine so i'm not sure why I would need an adjustable one?

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Shocks will bolt up fine, but the loose alot of their damping ability since they will be at a sharper angle (rear especially).

The adjustable track bar is to keep the axle centered side to side with the frame during the movement process. With lower trucks it tends to move it toward the passenger side more, than staying centered.

I think with 4" drop you are OK, but anymore most places recommended the adjustable track bar.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Good info, I appreciate your input, so what would I have to do? Your saying I would have to relocate shock mounts more towards the cab to decrease the angle to increase the damping ability?

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Basically, it is my understanding to get them more upright. It also allows you to use a more stock length shock, which gives you a longer range the shock can run thru. The shock absorbs/compresses better when it is more vertical. I am not an engineer, so hopefully that makes sense.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

That makes sense, thanks for your input!!:mm:

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Well got the passenger side rocker tacked into place still have some massaging to do but its coming along, also picked up a t5 transmission and another 5 speed from an s-10 was thrown in the deal.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Nice work on the metal:metal:. That trans from the s10 is a nv3500. Both the t5 and nv3500 will work. The mods you will have to do are put in a different clutch or a different input shaft so the splines match and most likely have to trim the pilot tip. If you have a low hump you will have to change it to high hump and will have to cut a new hole for the shifter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened and it's a good idea to add a trans mount/crossmember.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

I knew most of that except how did you know that it's and nv3500? And would that be the way to go if it were a real nv3500?

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

The t5 and nv3500 were what allmost all manual transmission s10's came with and the nv3500 has the integrated bellhousing and the casing is aluminum. but taking a closer look I don't think it is a nv3500. Is the bellhousing attached or is there just one bolted on in the picture? To know for sure you should be able to search up the numbers online. I did lots of research when getting a t5 for my truck. The t5 could have a lots of different gear ratios, if it came from a 4 cyl truck it will have a granny-like first gear and the od gear won't be great for highways with the 3.73 you have in the rear. But if it's from a 4.3 s10 then the gears will work great with your drivetrain. Another good thing about the t5 is that since it bolts right up to your bellhousing you won't even have to touch your clutch (unless it is worn). Maybe take some better pictures of the unknown trans and maybe it will be more clear

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

I plan on cleaning them up and finding the numbers on them, then maybe I can post more detailed images to show you what I have.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Sorry no updates lately, I've decided to play baseball and run track and field so truck time has been cut down but not gone but my online time has been down. Ive been stripping everything down trying to get my cab in epoxy primer so I can start doing body work (in my eyes the best part). Did all my grinding outside and primed it.

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

Good to see you making progress! I know how it can be tough to Get anything done With school, sports and other stuff but keep on chipping away at it and you'll be done in no time

Re: Saddle up 66 c10
 

I get a chance to look at builds during school a bit but no time to post and I have been following yours, nice job on the cab corners and the fender mod!